A company whose name starts with 'H'. Well, I see it's not Hansautoparts, but Mahle, as far as I can tell, it's not exactly made in the USA. Not the last time I looked.
Now, truthfully, before I go off on any tangent, there are some basic principles that need to be adhered to.
First, the world is FRAUGHT with turbos made by guys who buy Chinese CHRA's and think that simply bead blasting a housing and putting in new nuts and screws with a Chinese actuator is 'a new turbo'. Nothing could be further from the truth. Then there are the companies whose greed and bottom-feeder mentality says to buy from the lowest cost, regardless of value. I try to avoid those places.
When checking out a turbo for proper boost, the use of some form of computer dongle, like the VCDS, or SnapOn, Genesis, and a few others is IMPERATIVE. There are several readings that need to be seen, like for instance, the MAF, MAP, injector balance and fuel usage that will give you some idea what your engine is doing, or NOT doing with the fuel entering the combustion chamber.
The other thing, without testing the interest of the local police department, is to drive the engine in the proper rpm range that it is intended to run. I'm going to guess, with you stating gasoline prices in the .20 range, then you are a contemporary of mine. You may have found your 'need for speed' has diminished to the point that your driving habits are more like 'putting around'.
You are not the only one; there are a whole bunch of people who can't seem to understand that the TDI engine, when babied, is actually abused. Shifting so the engine is running below 2,000 rpm on the upshift causes the engine to LUG. There is nothing more damaging to the pistons and rings than operating below the proper rpm range. AND, the engine will not run efficiently, ergo, it will make soot.
That does not mean driving it for an "Italian Tune Up'. It means your raise the engine's rpm to live in it's proper rpm range, which happens to be between 2000 and 3500 rpm.
So you understand, this is not a Detroit or a Peterbilt, Caterpillar or Cummins. Most of those engines are 2-3- even 5x as big and lumbering, slow engines in comparison. My Cummins, running at 2100rpm is doing all it really ever needs to do, but the TDI is just starting. So you understand, when you are on the interstate, doing 70, what's your rpm? That is usually less than 1/2 way to the TDI's 'sweet spot', which is more like 75mph and 2500rpm.
So, without flooring the accelerator, you will find by driving correctly, the turbo, and I might mention, also the intake, will stay much cleaner. And your engine will actually last longer, if you stop abusing it with low rpm running.
Good luck with your 'foreign' turbo.
If it's a Jetta, I have a whole set of rubber.
The non-operating cigarette lighter is more likely to be the plug itself. If the back one works, they are on the same fuse. Replace the lighter socket, but fair warning, it's not a lot of fun...
It's Schaeffler Group and a perfectly good clutch is something we stock. Just like the timing belt. The warning is to replace the belt when it looks perfectly good. That beats the alternative 'all to pieces'. While you are checking with me for the 'other stuff', you might ask about that, too. The normal interval is 80-100k or not more than 5 years. Since the previous owner was apparently abusive, you might get someone to look up from the bottom timing belt cover and see how the rollers and the water pump look; good or bad. There's nothing like the belt parting to ruin your day. We have made a stock in trade for cylinder heads. We can tell you all the things to NOT do, and some to do.
We have some very reputable mechanics we can suggest in VA, who are 'go to' guys and know their stuff.
Feel free to PM, email or call.
Frank
