Ok, thanks.
Where to buy aux. heater?
- Thread starter 2footbraker
- Start date
Hi, I have the same problem with aux heater.
Only all mosfets are fine and 5 resistors too. No soldering problems.
The problem was that no 5 volts to red part from the yellow one ( it converts 12v to 5v...)
.
After soldering new yellow part the 5 volts are present now, but there's another one:
Only all mosfets are fine and 5 resistors too. No soldering problems.
The problem was that no 5 volts to red part from the yellow one ( it converts 12v to 5v...)
. After soldering new yellow part the 5 volts are present now, but there's another one:
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Hi, I have the same problem with aux heater.
Only all mosfets are fine and 5 resistors too. No soldering problems.
The problem was that no 5 volts to red part from the yellow one ( it converts 12v to 5v...)
After soldering new yellow part the 5 volts are present now, but there's another one:
In the END there was no problem with the heater itself.
It was not damaged or etc. Resoldered the changed parts back to original ones.
The problem was that vcds can't clear the fault, but VAG VAS can.
This one saved my life:
http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/VAS 5052.htm
Now I have fully working heater
jagster936
Veteran Member
Why can't VCDS clear it?
wolfsburg_de
Ross-Tech AssociateVendor , w/Business number
Yes, we were using 14.10 version original cable, not a fake one.
But the fault code after week showed his "face" again with the same fault code...
So the only way was to change the heater itself to another one. After re installing there was no fault without clearing it.
LewisTDI105
Member
I am in the same boat. As above, I have a fault code for the aux heater element being defective. I did an output test on the heater with VCDS and at the time I ran the test, the element only reached 600W ish.
I've since ripped out the element with control board and found nothing obviously wrong with the the board or components. Tested the 5 resistors, no smells of burning or visual effects from burning. I'm now in two minds whether to get a s/h one of go to the dealers... help!
Update: the local dealers want £472 for a new heater.
I've since ripped out the element with control board and found nothing obviously wrong with the the board or components. Tested the 5 resistors, no smells of burning or visual effects from burning. I'm now in two minds whether to get a s/h one of go to the dealers... help!
Update: the local dealers want £472 for a new heater.
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600 watts = 2 out of 3 heating elements are working. Maybe for that reason it's reported as defective one.
Yup same here. I think it could be a problem with the micro controller itself
I found aux heater from 2006 mk5 and paid only 30 euro for used one and it works: outputs ~1000 watts.
http://www.beru.com/download/produkte/fachaufsatz_ptc_en.pdf
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HI,
I think I might have a similar problem with my Aux heater, it keeps throwing code 00361 (Heater element defective). I was able to clear the code but then it reappeared same code 00361 as intermittent. I am thinking either the heating element or the controller are defective. Does someone know where the controller and the element are located? What is the best way to get to them? The vehicle is 2006 VW Jetta TDI.
Thanks!!!!
I think I might have a similar problem with my Aux heater, it keeps throwing code 00361 (Heater element defective). I was able to clear the code but then it reappeared same code 00361 as intermittent. I am thinking either the heating element or the controller are defective. Does someone know where the controller and the element are located? What is the best way to get to them? The vehicle is 2006 VW Jetta TDI.
Thanks!!!!
So I was able to find and remove mine. I am still getting the code 00361 - Heather element fault.Hi, I have the same problem with aux heater.
Only all mosfets are fine and 5 resistors too. No soldering problems.
The problem was that no 5 volts to red part from the yellow one ( it converts 12v to 5v...)
After soldering new yellow part the 5 volts are present now, but there's another one:
I think all three heating elements are OK, it is hard to check them with the ohm meter, because the resistance would be so low, and all the other circuitry that is connected, but I think the controller is throwing the false message saying the Z35 is bad, but the actual controller is not working properly.
I don't think that part is a voltage regulator, I could not find any info on it. The label says S0525, but google search did not produce any meaningful datasheet for the component. I would say it is a mosfet that turns on the main circuit. Remember, the AUX heather module is always ON has the power, and I am thinking the only way it "wakes up" is through the CAN low and high bus.
I have tried to connect directly with VCDS using my "mini car in the basement", but since the AUX heater is on the convenience CAN bus and that CAN bus runs only at 125kbps, I am unable to communicate to it with VCDS without the gateway module (which I don't have). I am not sure which CAN message would turn the Aux heater on, so I am thinking to "sniff" the convenience CAN bus on my Jetta TDI and see if I can figure out.
Does anyone have any additional info on the fix?
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Ok just for those who still come across this page, one of the resistors (larger one that is 62 ohms) had a bad cold joint and I managed to resolder all 5 of them and the Aux heater seems to be working. I was able to clear the code using VCDS and everything seems to be working ok now. So apparently those resistors get a bit hot and unsolder themselves, so a permanent lifetime solution would be to replace them with one that can handle more power and therefore would run cooler. I find these problems on LCD monitors quite a bit...manufacturers are trying to save money by putting a components that will run hot and eventually burn/unsolder itself.
One way to get the electronics of the heater module to "wake up" is to feed any CAN messages running at the speed of 125k (Comfort bus runs at 125k), so I made a little program using teensy 3.1 microcontroller which looped CAN messages to the bus. +5V was present where it was suppose to be, so that component S0525 by the positive terminal is not a voltage regulator (referring to one of the previous posts on this page); it is a MOSFET. CAN transceiver usually sits in a sleep state until it receives any CAN message at which time it wakes up. More info on the CAN transceiver that is in this AUX heater is available here:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TJA1054.pdf
Hope this helps someone...
One way to get the electronics of the heater module to "wake up" is to feed any CAN messages running at the speed of 125k (Comfort bus runs at 125k), so I made a little program using teensy 3.1 microcontroller which looped CAN messages to the bus. +5V was present where it was suppose to be, so that component S0525 by the positive terminal is not a voltage regulator (referring to one of the previous posts on this page); it is a MOSFET. CAN transceiver usually sits in a sleep state until it receives any CAN message at which time it wakes up. More info on the CAN transceiver that is in this AUX heater is available here:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TJA1054.pdf
Hope this helps someone...
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Rembrant
Veteran Member
Just curious...is there more to the aux heater control logic than this 70C cut-off? I assume that as the coolant temp rises the aux heater wattage decreases until 70C is hit? And, using the Aux Heater output test in VCDS is still limited by this coolant temp?
I didn't do any tests prior to removing the heater, but was getting the "Unit Defective" code. Soldered all resistors back on, re-installed and then got fault for "element circuit - intermittent". Cleared it again, and no more fault codes.
I did an output test and watched the power ramp up to 77 amps, and then it started to drop down again. I did a couple more output tests after that and only hit 30 amps. Last test, and the amps were zero...heater didn't come on at all. Coolant temp was 84C by this time.
Still not getting any fault codes, and I haven't tried operating it from the dash yet. I was just getting started with my tests and the coolant got too hot (I assume).
Edit: Never mind...again. I just plugged VCDS in again and coolant temp was only 56C so I tried another test. Turned on heat from HVAC controls on Dash. Aux heater started around 62 amps, and then as the coolant temp increased, the Aux Heater amps decreased. Once the coolant hit 75C, the Aux Heater turned off. No fault codes, looks like all is well.
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TedStriker
Active member
Thought I'd post up my experience with getting my aux heater working here...
Car is a UK (RHD) 2004 Mk5 Golf 2.0 TDI 140 DSG - dual zone climatronic. Aux heater wasn't working and I was getting the following fault code:
00361 - Heater Element for Auxiliary Heater (Z35)
014 - Defective
Tried running output tests and the heater did work but only up to around 650 Watts. This suggests one of the three elements is not working. Removing the heater is slightly more difficult in a RHD car as there is a large piece of plastic that blocks the heater from coming out (the glove box lower support) but access isn't too bad - probably better than having the pedals in the way.
I was fixing my V158 left hand temp flap motor anyway (quick squirt of contact cleaner stopped that from ticking away constantly!) so had that out of the way including the bracket it mounts to - probably essential even if you aren't needing to work on the motor.
It looks like there are two options to get the heater out - the first is to remove the entire dash panel or at least move it a couple of inches towards the rear of the vehicle, and the second is to bend the offending piece of plastic until there's enough room to slide the heater out. Some people have suggested cutting it but others have had success with just bending. I didn't, or not complete success anyway. The plastic snapped before it had bent far enough. Not the end of the world as it's not 'structural' and with a break it's easy to glue back together once finished as the two ends mesh better than they would had they been cut.
Got the heater out and could see the 5 resistors shown in earlier posts. Took a gamble that as it's the left hand element that had gone, the left hand resistor would be the one to go for. It's definitely a fiddly soldering job but I managed to re-flow the 'inboard' end of the left hand resistor (the one in the narrowest part of the board). Temporarily connected it up before refitting and lo and behold, it worked! Drew 900+ Watts on the output test and I was able to clear the fault code which previously gave me an error when I tried to clear it. Put it all back together again and all is good.
There have been a few comments about how to get the heater to come on involving moving temp controls to max etc, but if you look at one of the blocks on VCDS for the aux heater there are a set of 4 figures. If any are anything other than 0.0 then the heater will not be on. I can't remember exactly but the following requirements need to be met:
Battery voltage high enough - self explanatory, will not fire up with the engine off.
Coolant temp low enough - below 75C
Request from HVAC - this one's a little harder. Firstly the 'ECON' button must not be on. Secondly there must be a request from the Climatronic for the heat. This is not directly dependent on the temperature setting, more on the position of the temperature motors. If it's 0C in the car and your temp is set to 16C then it will come on. If it's 20C in the car and your temp is set to 16C it won't for instance. I don't know what the equivalent to this is for the manual AC cars. A bit annoying about the 'ECON' button as it means that if it's anything above 5C then to have the aux heater running you will also have the AC compressor running.
Really glad to have got the job done in time for Winter. Next job is to change the thermostat which I understand is not an enjoyable or quick job at all.
Hope this helps someone - any questions reply here and I'll do my best to help
Car is a UK (RHD) 2004 Mk5 Golf 2.0 TDI 140 DSG - dual zone climatronic. Aux heater wasn't working and I was getting the following fault code:
00361 - Heater Element for Auxiliary Heater (Z35)
014 - Defective
Tried running output tests and the heater did work but only up to around 650 Watts. This suggests one of the three elements is not working. Removing the heater is slightly more difficult in a RHD car as there is a large piece of plastic that blocks the heater from coming out (the glove box lower support) but access isn't too bad - probably better than having the pedals in the way.
I was fixing my V158 left hand temp flap motor anyway (quick squirt of contact cleaner stopped that from ticking away constantly!) so had that out of the way including the bracket it mounts to - probably essential even if you aren't needing to work on the motor.
It looks like there are two options to get the heater out - the first is to remove the entire dash panel or at least move it a couple of inches towards the rear of the vehicle, and the second is to bend the offending piece of plastic until there's enough room to slide the heater out. Some people have suggested cutting it but others have had success with just bending. I didn't, or not complete success anyway. The plastic snapped before it had bent far enough. Not the end of the world as it's not 'structural' and with a break it's easy to glue back together once finished as the two ends mesh better than they would had they been cut.
Got the heater out and could see the 5 resistors shown in earlier posts. Took a gamble that as it's the left hand element that had gone, the left hand resistor would be the one to go for. It's definitely a fiddly soldering job but I managed to re-flow the 'inboard' end of the left hand resistor (the one in the narrowest part of the board). Temporarily connected it up before refitting and lo and behold, it worked! Drew 900+ Watts on the output test and I was able to clear the fault code which previously gave me an error when I tried to clear it. Put it all back together again and all is good.
There have been a few comments about how to get the heater to come on involving moving temp controls to max etc, but if you look at one of the blocks on VCDS for the aux heater there are a set of 4 figures. If any are anything other than 0.0 then the heater will not be on. I can't remember exactly but the following requirements need to be met:
Battery voltage high enough - self explanatory, will not fire up with the engine off.
Coolant temp low enough - below 75C
Request from HVAC - this one's a little harder. Firstly the 'ECON' button must not be on. Secondly there must be a request from the Climatronic for the heat. This is not directly dependent on the temperature setting, more on the position of the temperature motors. If it's 0C in the car and your temp is set to 16C then it will come on. If it's 20C in the car and your temp is set to 16C it won't for instance. I don't know what the equivalent to this is for the manual AC cars. A bit annoying about the 'ECON' button as it means that if it's anything above 5C then to have the aux heater running you will also have the AC compressor running.
Really glad to have got the job done in time for Winter. Next job is to change the thermostat which I understand is not an enjoyable or quick job at all.
Hope this helps someone - any questions reply here and I'll do my best to help