I forgot about that, thanks!
Out of curiosity, how does the computer know how much each injector is actually using? There’s only a wire going to the one injector, so how are the others measured?
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
Out of curiosity, how does the computer know how much each injector is actually using? There’s only a wire going to the one injector, so how are the others measured?
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Location
- Greenville, MI
- TDI
- 2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
The crank sensor measures rpm at idle and the quantity adjuster compensates fueling for any difference via the ecu to keep the idle even. The changes are viewed in measuring or advanced measuring blocks.
Right, but how does it know what each individual injector is doing? Ohh wait I think I get it
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Location
- Greenville, MI
- TDI
- 2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Because it is telling each injector what to do to keep the idle balanced. I think it reads the tone ring after the power stroke of each cylinder. Then it adjusts fuel to the next cylinder as needed to increase or decrease rpm.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
What did I do today...
Changed the timing belt, thermostat, air filter, unsuccessfully tried swapping alternators on the newly acquired 2002 Golf.
I'm sure timing is off, but I started it up for 3 seconds just to make sure my work was good, after turning over the engine by hand one iteration, of course. This is my fourth timing belt of the year on an ALH, and it won't be my last.
My steering rack is leaking PS fluid, so that'll get changed, with a bunch of other stuff. EVERYTHING along the timing belt path was original to this car, and I was a little surprised, but then again, there were paint mark timing marks. I always cringe when I see those. I figured the TB was the most important thing to cover, and everything will fall into place sooner than later.
Then, on my 2002 Golf in my sig (my daily driver), I put in an injection pump I found at the junkyard. This yard is 6 hours away, so I had to plan for this trip. Found this super clean looking reman pump in a 2002 2-door Golf. Everything else in that engine compartment was filthy. A vendor on this forum determined that it was relatively new, bosch refurb, but sold through VW.
Took a few tries, but I got timing spot on!
Test drive was successful, and the car definitely felt like it had more power. Best $25 I've ever spent!
Changed the timing belt, thermostat, air filter, unsuccessfully tried swapping alternators on the newly acquired 2002 Golf.
I'm sure timing is off, but I started it up for 3 seconds just to make sure my work was good, after turning over the engine by hand one iteration, of course. This is my fourth timing belt of the year on an ALH, and it won't be my last.
My steering rack is leaking PS fluid, so that'll get changed, with a bunch of other stuff. EVERYTHING along the timing belt path was original to this car, and I was a little surprised, but then again, there were paint mark timing marks. I always cringe when I see those. I figured the TB was the most important thing to cover, and everything will fall into place sooner than later.
Then, on my 2002 Golf in my sig (my daily driver), I put in an injection pump I found at the junkyard. This yard is 6 hours away, so I had to plan for this trip. Found this super clean looking reman pump in a 2002 2-door Golf. Everything else in that engine compartment was filthy. A vendor on this forum determined that it was relatively new, bosch refurb, but sold through VW.
Took a few tries, but I got timing spot on!
Test drive was successful, and the car definitely felt like it had more power. Best $25 I've ever spent!
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About to put new fsb links and bushes. I ordered 21mm set. Measured the bar with cheap plastic HF calipers, and it says it's 22.5ish (it's not digital). So maybe I do have a 23mm front bar?? It's an '03 GL trim sedan. Anyway, I guess I'll know for certain when the man in brown drops off my IDParts box....
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Yeah that would be a 23mm bar
Figures. I was ASSuming it would be 21mm since it's a base 4 cyl model; I thought the 23mm would be for GTi, GLi, R32, and VR6 models.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I thought the same thing as well and originally ordered 21mm stuff...I measured after I ordered of course haha
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
I always do new metal links and bushings for the FSB. It's definitely noticeable on the car, but I also redo everythhing, like on this second 2002 Golf I got. Not happy with how much I'm having to buy, but it'll be a brand new car when I'm done.
Also, it could be just me, but I've had better luck with slightly longer 13mm bolts when trying to screw back on the calipers holding those FSB bushings.
PakProtector
Veteran Member
I like the idea of using a 22mm open end wrench, if it goes on it is a 21, if not it is a 23. I have two of the latter, and one former. All are now running black PowerFlex. There are also two different saddles, one is a flat strap with the edges rolled up and one has a bump in the middle. The PowerFlex are all cast to fit the bump-in-the-middle type. The two I have with 21's were flat, and the 23's had the bump in the middle.
cheers,
Douglas
cheers,
Douglas
I did buy the metal sway bar links. At IDParts, from China. As was the Rein dogbone mount, bushes, and saddles (Meyle). At least they aren’t really mission critical parts.
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
It seems all that stuff is Chinese. I'm hoping it all ends up being okay in the end years later. Cascade German carries the same things mostly. I just installed a Rein mount yesterday, and will do the same for my dogbone.
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
Turns out I need to replace my steering rack on this new car. How long did the process take you? I'm debating when I'll do it, but I need to swap transmissions, so I might do that at the time, while the subfrae is out.
tdidieselbobny
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2005
- Location
- Stafford,NY (WNY)
- TDI
- '03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
It took me about 5 hours altogether , but was taking my time, no rush as it is something I've never done before.If you started it and had everything by your side, I'd say an hour to remove and an hour to put back in, then the time to bleed it once all set and put back together, leave car on stands to bleed it. Do NOT start car until after you bleed it. I thought about 5-6 times was enough with car off, but still had bubbles/foaming when I started it. I didn't need car, so I left it on stands and bled it some more with engine off for a couple days(bled for about 15 minutes each day) I also recommend trying to determine what outer tie rods are on it. The Driveworks ones I bought, the body was just a little shorter than the TRW ones on it, so counting turns went out window. I ended up having old rack and new rack next to each other, then eyeballed the ends. Also remember to center the shaft, my new rack was 3 complete turns lock to lock turning with wrenches on shaft, so I went 1-1/2 turns-when installing in car and attaching steering shaft to rack, I centered the wheel, you can always turn it after it's seated to get the bolt in. I also tried to get some of the proper fluid in rack before installing, as new rack looked to have a tannish steering fluid, while the expensive green can Pentosin CH11S is a green fluid. I used about 1 quart total, but get 2 to be safe. IDParts is cheapest, was $18/quart, while Advance is now over $40 for quart and Napa/Autozone are around $38....Not sure if you can use white can Pentosin, Advance had them on clearance
benmarks
Veteran Member
Sounds like time to get a quick rack
Black00Jetta
Veteran Member
A/C went out at 337k. Ended up replacing small radiator fan and bad clutch coil. Put everything back together and have cold A/C again!
CableJockey
Veteran Member
What did I do today?
Finally found time to replace a sketchy a/c clutch.
The pulley bearing was bad, causing squeaking at idle, loud groaning at engine shut down, and due to the amount of slop in the bearing, the pulley was shooting sparks at idle as it randomly contacted the clutch plate. Normal driving with ac off left the clutch plate quite hot; with ac on (and slipping constantly) the clutch basically started glowing.
Replaced with a full clutch kit off ebay.
Not an easy task considering the condition of the clutch and pulley. However, the replacement is quiet, and works as intended without excess excitement like sparks and heat.
I call it a success.
Finally found time to replace a sketchy a/c clutch.
The pulley bearing was bad, causing squeaking at idle, loud groaning at engine shut down, and due to the amount of slop in the bearing, the pulley was shooting sparks at idle as it randomly contacted the clutch plate. Normal driving with ac off left the clutch plate quite hot; with ac on (and slipping constantly) the clutch basically started glowing.
Replaced with a full clutch kit off ebay.
Not an easy task considering the condition of the clutch and pulley. However, the replacement is quiet, and works as intended without excess excitement like sparks and heat.
I call it a success.
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
Sorry if I already asked you (checked but didn't see anything). How long ago did you order your used engine from DAP and what was the total cost?
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
$25 for an IP ?! What a deal!
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
Tell me about it. Still waiting to get some help analyzing my logs from @burpod, but he's been under the weather. Of course, reported FE numbers are changed, and I feel like they're exagerated, so I'll adjust the consumption calibration on ColorMFA after my next fillup. Wish we could do that for a standard MFA.
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
And what did I do... put the front end back on my second 2002 Golf yesterday. Just for more peace of mind, replaced the original radiator, condenser and drier with new stuff. I actually got a NOS OEM drier, so that worked. The old compressor was running, but nothing happened, and rather than spend a day diagnosing, for me, it made more sense to just do brand new, like I did on my 2000 Golf. Also had a broken bracket on my 90a alternator, so it got yet another Autozone 120a alternator. We'll see how long they last, but I do like that lifetime warranty!
Didn't get the intake on, so if I have a chance tonight, I might try putting that on. Next project is swapping out the steering rack, and I'll probably drop the transmission soon, since the subframe comes out anyways, and I'm changing 100% of the front brakes/suspension, and actually going to do rhe VR6/1.8T larger rotor upgrade.
Didn't get the intake on, so if I have a chance tonight, I might try putting that on. Next project is swapping out the steering rack, and I'll probably drop the transmission soon, since the subframe comes out anyways, and I'm changing 100% of the front brakes/suspension, and actually going to do rhe VR6/1.8T larger rotor upgrade.
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
Thanks. I already ordered one from Cascade German, on its way to me hopefully Monday. But the heat index is supposed to be 108 or more, so there's a good chance I won't do any work during the daytime.
So what's this bleeding? I don't need the car thankfully, since it is one of three reflex silver Golfs that I own (lol). Never thought I'd have three, 2 the same model year and color. I'm not too worried about the tierod length, because I was gonna replace them anyways, and then get an alignment. Worst case scenario, if the alignment is really off, I can just take it on a tow dolly to Firestone with an appointment, and get both it and my Sportwagen aligned the same day
Most seem to recommend bleeding power steering by filling the system then, with tires off the ground and engine off, turning the wheel lock to lock a dozen or so times. Recheck fluid and repeat until it stays full. The rack will “pump” the fluid all through the system and work out most if not all of the air. Then you can start the motor and turn the wheel lock to lock a few more times and top up fluid as needed.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Didn't do a lot yesterday, but decided to attack the patented VW vent "stank" per some good instructions on here. Let the recirc air do it's job, high heat, full blast for about 20 minutes, with the windows cracked to dry things out in the system. Then pulled the cabin filter and switched to outside air and turned the fan down to low. Gave some burst shots of the OG Lysol disinfectant and allowed it to work the system.
We'll see if it does any good in the long run but it's already better than it was. Reminded me to swap my cabin air filter and do my intake filter as well.
Also played with some tunes this weekend.
We'll see if it does any good in the long run but it's already better than it was. Reminded me to swap my cabin air filter and do my intake filter as well.
Also played with some tunes this weekend.
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
Podtronics revisions? I'm having fun in my car with my new IP. What a difference that made!
pkhoury
That guy with the goats
What I did... technically, this should be posted in the mk6 forum, and I might do that, but I put a new H6 AGM in mom's 2014 Beetle TDI, installed the newest RNS-510 in my 2013 JSW, put my old RNS-510 in mom's Beetle, and then turned to my mk4's.
Installed Polk DB652 speakers in the rear doors on the new 2002 Golf.
I use 6.5" speakers and this is how I mount them, because it makes the most logical sense to me.
After that was done, I swapped 2002 Golfs and brought my daily driver onto the driveway to do the 60K mile service. Oil change, and grabbed a sample to do my first Blackstone OA, changed the air filter, and then fuel filter. Best part? When I loaded up a new revision of Podtronics Stage 2, it keeps the in-tank lift pump running (since I retrofitted it with a BEW lift pump). So I didn't have to use a mitivac. Tuning an EDC15 takes around 3-4 minutes, so that worked perfectly, and now this car hauls @$$!
Installed Polk DB652 speakers in the rear doors on the new 2002 Golf.
I use 6.5" speakers and this is how I mount them, because it makes the most logical sense to me.
After that was done, I swapped 2002 Golfs and brought my daily driver onto the driveway to do the 60K mile service. Oil change, and grabbed a sample to do my first Blackstone OA, changed the air filter, and then fuel filter. Best part? When I loaded up a new revision of Podtronics Stage 2, it keeps the in-tank lift pump running (since I retrofitted it with a BEW lift pump). So I didn't have to use a mitivac. Tuning an EDC15 takes around 3-4 minutes, so that worked perfectly, and now this car hauls @$$!