turbo lag have logs

[makos101]

UPDATE 2/9 at night I did what JETaah said and messed with the break booster vac line nipple once I had the gauge on it. It started at 25 inches when I put a little bit of pressure on the nipple and break booster line it went down to 20inches and started shaking up and down 2-4 inches!

Do I need to replace the whole line? Is it just plug and play?

Thanks for the help guys.

Update 2/9 I replaced the n75 valve. It seemed to help a little bit. But im still having trouble getting boost to spool up fast and it seems to die off at high rpms.

Here is my recent turbo log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B55tRF16hTrUTE9lQ3BIWm5TZGM/view?usp=sharing

It is having trouble staying at the desired boost as you can see.

My boost gauge is also shaking which it has never done before. Here is a video of it shaking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwk6Vk-FtZc

Do I have a leak in my inter cooler or exhaust?

What else could be wrong that could cause this?

Update 2/3. The N75 to my turbo is only getting 17 inches and the needle is moving a little bit up and down. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQszt5MSbe4
Is my N75 dead or is there a leak? Im getting 25 inches from my break booster.
I took my boost valve off too after noticing that it was letting vacuum out where it should be a one way valve but I might be wrong there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKCAaTEVqD8
Any advice is appreciated thank you guys
op
I've been having some low power and turbo lag in my 03 alh tdi jetta recently. It happened out of the blue one day when I was taking a trip. It seems like my car is just having trouble keeping the boost up and it almost feels like I'm missing a cylinder. Some friends say its running rougher but I can't tell any difference.
But it starts up and idles and runs fine except when I try to get the boost up. My boost gauge needle is very shaky and shakes +- 2 psi when I get on the throttle. I've checked all my vacuum lines and replaced a few that were frayed. I checked my maf and looked at all the inter cooler pipes for leaks.
My turbo only has 30k miles on it. And it has been running pretty good up till this happened.
Thanks

 

[keaton85]

check the brake booster line for cracks and go back over the vac lines. I can't pull the graph, was this with VCDS? also did you adjust the actuator after replacing the turbo?

Unplug the MAF sensor and see if that helps.

 

[Rembrant]

I've checked all my vacuum lines and replaced a few that were frayed.

As mentioned above, I'd go back over the vacuum lines...if you found a couple that looked bad, then they're all bad. The whole set is only about $30, just replace the whole works. Check the line between the vac pump and the brake booster...it cracks on each end, and in the middle, or both. Check the nipple on the pump this line is attached to...is it loose? If so, it shouldn't be.

I'd suggest with your logs to log several things at the same time instead of doing individual logs. You're hitting full boost in 3.5 seconds and by 2100 RPM or so...but the MAF numbers and fuel numbers do seem to taper off a bit once you hit the high 2000 RPM's. Might be normal...I don't know. If you have them all logged on the same Excel spreadsheet, you can follow the lines across to see if the MAF and injection numbers correspond to the boost data, etc.

I'm no expert...but I think if you can log MAF, injection, and boost all together, it will make more sense.

 

[CNGVW]

You need to place a vacuum gauge between brake booster line small hose and the vacuum hoses. Start the car it should go to 18+ inchs and stay there under load. If not start to pinch lines to see if it gos up ( some times the booster nipple is parley plugged)and you found a leak, next you need to check the N75 and the turbo to make shore it is doing its job. place the gauge between the N75 line and the turbo start the engine it should go up to 18 inches on a 5 speed, automatics it will be lower
drive it and view it to see the N75 is working.

 

[makos101]

You need to place a vacuum gauge between brake booster line small hose and the vacuum hoses. Start the car it should go to 18+ inchs and stay there under load. If not start to pinch lines to see if it gos up ( some times the booster nipple is parley plugged)and you found a leak, next you need to check the N75 and the turbo to make shore it is doing its job. place the gauge between the N75 line and the turbo start the engine it should go up to 18 inches on a 5 speed, automatics it will be lower
drive it and view it to see the N75 is working.

The break booster line seems to not have any viable cracks in it. I will get my hands on a vacuum gauge and test it to see if they are getting what they need.
Do I need to log 007+011+006? or do my logs help enough?

 

[makos101]

You need to place a vacuum gauge between brake booster line small hose and the vacuum hoses. Start the car it should go to 18+ inchs and stay there under load. If not start to pinch lines to see if it gos up ( some times the booster nipple is parley plugged)and you found a leak, next you need to check the N75 and the turbo to make shore it is doing its job. place the gauge between the N75 line and the turbo start the engine it should go up to 18 inches on a 5 speed, automatics it will be lower
drive it and view it to see the N75 is working.

Updated the OP with the info that I found. My n75 is only putting out 17 inches and the needle of the vacuum gauge is moving up and down.

Is my N75 bad or is there a leak some place causing the 17 inches and the needle to move up and down.

Any advice would help.

 

[UhOh]

Updated the OP with the info that I found. My n75 is only putting out 17 inches and the needle of the vacuum gauge is moving up and down.

Is my N75 bad or is there a leak some place causing the 17 inches and the needle to move up and down.

Any advice would help.

Try swapping it with the N18 valve (they're the same). Unless the N18 is also bad you should see an improvement if it's not vacuum lines. Careful not to break any of the plastic nipples! (best to cut the hoses just beyond the nipples and then slice off what's left- make sure you have slack tubing/line to accommodate the shortening).

 

[makos101]

Try swapping it with the N18 valve (they're the same). Unless the N18 is also bad you should see an improvement if it's not vacuum lines. Careful not to break any of the plastic nipples! (best to cut the hoses just beyond the nipples and then slice off what's left- make sure you have slack tubing/line to accommodate the shortening).

Im pretty sure the n18 is bad. So think I should pull the trigger on a new n75?

 

[Rembrant]

I don't know about turbo lag, but your log shows that you're hitting full boost, and more, almost instantly...in 2-3 seconds. When you leave idle, you're at full boost by 2000-2100 RPM, in only a couple seconds.

I don't know if 17" of vacuum is bad or not...did you check it under load? You're obviously getting enough vacuum to reach full boost, and slightly more.

 

[makos101]

I don't know about turbo lag, but your log shows that you're hitting full boost, and more, almost instantly...in 2-3 seconds. When you leave idle, you're at full boost by 2000-2100 RPM, in only a couple seconds.
I don't know if 17" of vacuum is bad or not...did you check it under load? You're obviously getting enough vacuum to reach full boost, and slightly more.

How do I check it under load? My vacuum gauge doesn't have a top inches that I can leave it under the hood then check when driving.

The boost does die a couple seconds into having full boost tho and my boost gauge needle is very shaky.

Thanks for the tips

 

[makos101]

Updated the opening post.

I replaced the n75 valve. It seemed to help a little bit. But im still having trouble getting boost to spool up fast and it seems to die off at high rpms.

Here is my recent turbo log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B55tRF16hTrUTE9lQ3BIWm5TZGM/view?usp=sharing

It is having trouble staying at the desired boost as you can see.

My boost gauge is also shaking which it has never done before. Here is a video of it shaking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwk6Vk-FtZc

Do I have a leak in my inter cooler or exhaust?

What else could be wrong that could cause this?

 

[JETaah]

Put a vacuum gauge on the small hose nipple of the black vacuum check valve right past the vacuum pump nipple...only the gauge, not the rest of the engine's components. Start the engine and view the gauge. The vacuum should make it's way up to about 25-28" hg pretty quickly if there are no cracks in the brake booster line and you did not pump the brake pedal to deplete the vacuum.
Whether it does or not, try wiggling the pumps nipple to see if the vacuum changes by either dropping or causing the needle to vibrate.

Most cars that come in here with lots of miles on them have this going on to some degree.
Chances are that the vacuum is leaking at the nipple and just hovering high enough to 'kinda' make things work. Another symptom of a low/leaky vacuum source is if the ASV is not shutting long enough to stop the shudder when shutting the engine off.

I get a "file does not exist" when linking to the turbo log.

 

[makos101]

Put a vacuum gauge on the small hose nipple of the black vacuum check valve right past the vacuum pump nipple...only the gauge, not the rest of the engine's components. Start the engine and view the gauge. The vacuum should make it's way up to about 25-28" hg pretty quickly if there are no cracks in the brake booster line and you did not pump the brake pedal to deplete the vacuum.
Whether it does or not, try wiggling the pumps nipple to see if the vacuum changes by either dropping or causing the needle to vibrate.

Most cars that come in here with lots of miles on them have this going on to some degree.
Chances are that the vacuum is leaking at the nipple and just hovering high enough to 'kinda' make things work. Another symptom of a low/leaky vacuum source is if the ASV is not shutting long enough to stop the shudder when shutting the engine off.

I get a "file does not exist" when linking to the turbo log.

I updated the link. THATS IT!!!! I have 25 inches when I start up my car but as soon as I apply a little bit of pressure to the break booster valve the gauge drops down to 20 inches and starts shaking like crazy!!!

So do I need to replace this whole line or just the valve?

Thank you

 

[RacerTodd]

If the line has a crack or split in it, then you replace the whole line. Takes 5 minutes to pull the hose out and inspect it.

You can also loose vacuum if the nipple on the vacuum pump is too sloppy. If the nipple moves back and forth more than 3/16" or so, it's so loose that you start loosing vacuum. Don't worry if it rotates, that by itself isn't an issue.

If the nipple is sloppy, you can peen over the lip with a hammer and a punch.

Here is a simple drawing showing a section through the nipple. During manufacture, the nipple is set into its hole, then the lip of the hole is rolled over to secure the nipple.

As the engine rocks back and forth during acceleration and deceleration, the booster hose tugs on the nipple. This, over time, pulls the lip up slightly and you get a loosey-goosey nipple. Whatever seal is underneath the nipple will tolerate a bit of looseness, more than that and you get a vacuum leak

The pump needs to be off the car as you just can't get good access with a hammer if it's on the car.

Chuck it in a vise. Don't clap the vise on the area where the o-ring goes, you don't want to mar that surface or you could get a oil leak.

Take a punch and put it on the edge of the lip, parallel to the nipple as per the red arrow. Give it one good whap with a hammer. Go around the lip with the hammer and punch, I do 10 or 12 hits all around the lip.

The section in red is where the lip is located:

 

[makos101]

If the line has a crack or split in it, then you replace the whole line. Takes 5 minutes to pull the hose out and inspect it.

You can also loose vacuum if the nipple on the vacuum pump is too sloppy. If the nipple moves back and forth more than 3/16" or so, it's so loose that you start loosing vacuum. Don't worry if it rotates, that by itself isn't an issue.

If the nipple is sloppy, you can peen over the lip with a hammer and a punch.

Here is a simple drawing showing a section through the nipple. During manufacture, the nipple is set into its hole, then the lip of the hole is rolled over to secure the nipple.

As the engine rocks back and forth during acceleration and deceleration, the booster hose tugs on the nipple. This, over time, pulls the lip up slightly and you get a loosey-goosey nipple. Whatever seal is underneath the nipple will tolerate a bit of looseness, more than that and you get a vacuum leak

The pump needs to be off the car as you just can't get good access with a hammer if it's on the car.

Chuck it in a vise. Don't clap the vise on the area where the o-ring goes, you don't want to mar that surface or you could get a oil leak.

Take a punch and put it on the edge of the lip, parallel to the nipple as per the red arrow. Give it one good whap with a hammer. Go around the lip with the hammer and punch, I do 10 or 12 hits all around the lip.

Thanks so much Todd. I took the break booster vacuum line off and sure enough there are at least a half a dozen little cracks. I ordered a new hose. My nipple is barely moving at all.

But the nipple is defiantly not under the lip like your picture. I might try installing the new hose and seeing if that fixes the leak before I take the vacuum pump off and hammer it.

 

[JETaah]

Be VERY careful tapping on the edge. They can crack easily.
I tap on it to firm the nipple joint up in a few spots then reinforce it with good old JB Weld.

 

[CNGVW]

I am glade you fixed it every one gave some very good tip.