FreshOntarioBeetle
Well-known member
Car still looks great! Hope you have fun at TDIFest
The NARFmobile, My 2001 Golf TDI
- Thread starter NarfBLAST
- Start date
mrrhtuner
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Location
- London Ont Canada
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta Wagon TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2015 Touareg TDI
TDIfest...wish it wasn't so far :-(
3L3M3NT
Veteran Member
Looking good. I didn't realize you did all that work on the brakes before coming to my gtg 
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
All worth it! Next year I will have to work in a couple of ferry rides across Lake Michigan. The drive around the north end of the lake with an overnight stop in St. Ignace was really nice, but on the way back I took the route around the south end of Lake Michigan thru Chicago which I did not enjoy as much - possibly also because I did not plan ahead and tried to drive it all in one shot, sleeping for only a couple of hours at a rest stop. Will definitely plan for more sleep on all future road trips.Looking good. I didn't realize you did all that work on the brakes before coming to my gtg
Here are routes from Sturgeon Bay, WI to Waterdown, ON on Google maps for reference: https://www.google.ca/maps/dir/Stur...3333f63e059c70!2m2!1d-79.9030371!2d43.3247102
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
522,000 km Update: NEW Howling noise at 1800 rpm!
Changed the serp belt and tensioner today because both were worn and also because I would like to find the source of the howl that is loud at 1800 rpm and sounds like there is a supercharger attached to the engine. The howl sounds exactly like the noise from a new heavy duty timing belt, but much louder.
The fist thing I did was remove the serp belt and start the engine: the noise was gone! That was a relief, but was the noise really gone? I installed a brand new serp belt and tensioner and the noise was definitely back. I removed the belt for a quick sanity check, pretty sure the noise was gone. Here is pictured of the old and new tensioners:
While the belt was off I spun all the accessory and idler pulleys and only the AC compressor pulley made noise while spinning by hand. I had already cut the clutch off the AC compressor back in the spring and successfully turned the AC compressor into one giant idler pulley. Not sure if I somehow damaged the bearing while cutting the clutch off or if it is just old and tired and needed replacing anyway.
A new AC compressor is $279 but I ordered this AC delete pulley for only $35 from Amazon.com thanks to this thread here for details: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=267157
Changed the serp belt and tensioner today because both were worn and also because I would like to find the source of the howl that is loud at 1800 rpm and sounds like there is a supercharger attached to the engine. The howl sounds exactly like the noise from a new heavy duty timing belt, but much louder.
The fist thing I did was remove the serp belt and start the engine: the noise was gone! That was a relief, but was the noise really gone? I installed a brand new serp belt and tensioner and the noise was definitely back. I removed the belt for a quick sanity check, pretty sure the noise was gone. Here is pictured of the old and new tensioners:
While the belt was off I spun all the accessory and idler pulleys and only the AC compressor pulley made noise while spinning by hand. I had already cut the clutch off the AC compressor back in the spring and successfully turned the AC compressor into one giant idler pulley. Not sure if I somehow damaged the bearing while cutting the clutch off or if it is just old and tired and needed replacing anyway.
A new AC compressor is $279 but I ordered this AC delete pulley for only $35 from Amazon.com thanks to this thread here for details: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=267157
manual_tranny
Smyth Performance- Intern
Thanks for sharing! I finally got a few minutes to catch up on the thread and I'm very happy to get to watch. Nice work bringing her back to life!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks!
I got the AC Delete pulley installed today and now the car sounds awesome again:
[0:16] TDI acceleration sound by NarfBLAST
A made a video showing how bad the old AC compressor was and how the AC Delete pulley fits:
[5:07] ALH TDI AC Delete Pulley Installed by NarfBLAST
3L3M3NT
Veteran Member
Yeah taking the ferry on the way back would definitely save some time and avoid the traffic in Chicago, but just so you know there are 2 car ferries that run across Lake Michigan
Like the SS Badger. http://www.ssbadger.com/
which might be be a better option, since it leaves closer to Sturgeon Bay and you'll be sleep a little longer too, since the trip takes about 6 hours in total from loading to unloading.
I know all of this, since I've taken both car ferries to go ride the Sand Dunes in Lower Michigan
I look forward to seeing you next year and if you need any other pointers on the best way to get to SB let me know.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Knocked out a wheel speed sensor this afternoon during nap time, literally.
First thing was to hook up the Thinkpad X41 and check if the "ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Right Front - Wiring Fault" went away after plugging in the new sensor:
With the all clear on the wiring from the computer, it was time to get the old sensor out:
I even managed to strip the bolt, luckily I had spare bolts from the EGR valve to intake manifold flange which are identical in size and length.
After a quick test drive, including engaging ABS on a loose gravel shoulder, no faults were found!
First thing was to hook up the Thinkpad X41 and check if the "ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Right Front - Wiring Fault" went away after plugging in the new sensor:
With the all clear on the wiring from the computer, it was time to get the old sensor out:
I even managed to strip the bolt, luckily I had spare bolts from the EGR valve to intake manifold flange which are identical in size and length.
After a quick test drive, including engaging ABS on a loose gravel shoulder, no faults were found!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Wood Roof Rack Installed!
After performing so many repairs lately, it was nice to be able to squeeze in this modification today.
The wood came from an IKEA twin size bed frame found discarded on the side of the road.
I prepared the boards by sanding the ends and pre-drillng the 5/16th inch holes for the carriage bolts, then I lined up the boards and marked the locations for the holes in the cross bars.
On the cross bars I first drilled a small pilot hole in each location, then followed that with a 21/64ths inch drill bit because my 5/16th bit looked a bit dull.
I used an old blanket to catch all the shavings:
After installing nuts to pull the carriage bolts down into the wood I could remove the nuts and have enough exposed thread to install a lock washer before re-installing all 14 nuts and snugging them up:
Took this photo after picking up the kids from day camp at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington, Ontario:
After performing so many repairs lately, it was nice to be able to squeeze in this modification today.
The wood came from an IKEA twin size bed frame found discarded on the side of the road.
I prepared the boards by sanding the ends and pre-drillng the 5/16th inch holes for the carriage bolts, then I lined up the boards and marked the locations for the holes in the cross bars.
On the cross bars I first drilled a small pilot hole in each location, then followed that with a 21/64ths inch drill bit because my 5/16th bit looked a bit dull.
I used an old blanket to catch all the shavings:
After installing nuts to pull the carriage bolts down into the wood I could remove the nuts and have enough exposed thread to install a lock washer before re-installing all 14 nuts and snugging them up:
Took this photo after picking up the kids from day camp at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington, Ontario:
Last edited:
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
Love it.
I think you should call it the Narf Takräcke!
I think you should call it the Narf Takräcke!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks! That reminds me, there was a board that had the IKEA label on it, but it was mouldy so I didn't use it. Here is a picture including the part number:
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
Narf Takräcke sounds much better than the Narf Lade rack
meerschm
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2009
- Location
- Fairfax county VA
- TDI
- 2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
Can you post a photo of the new rack full of whatever?
way back when, ('79 I think) I drove a '72 beetle with a couch and two overstuffed chairs tied to the roof. (did use a rack) these were returned to K mart, and we picked them up for $50 or so. used with a tuna fish can in place of a busted off leg for the next two years. I did not get a photo, but did notice looks from other drivers.
way back when, ('79 I think) I drove a '72 beetle with a couch and two overstuffed chairs tied to the roof. (did use a rack) these were returned to K mart, and we picked them up for $50 or so. used with a tuna fish can in place of a busted off leg for the next two years. I did not get a photo, but did notice looks from other drivers.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Will do soon, I have plans for some fun stuff on the roof for three solid days of driving this weekend when I head to TDIFest.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Leaving for TDIFest 2015 soon! I decided to remove the roof rack and put the bike inside for maximum fuel economy and wind noise reduction.
hskrdu
Top Post Dawg
Have a safe trip! I can't make it, but I'm sure it will be fun!
-Steve
-Steve
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks!
Made it to my half way point, Cornwall, Ontario, with more than half a tank left... I know the Scangauge is not calibrated for the "spirited" driving I was doing so I think there are more "kilometers to empty" (KME) left than it is indicating.
The car performed flawlessly over six hours (including stops for me) and 478 km. It was a most excellent afternoon and evening of driving. A beautiful sunset happened mostly in my mirrors while I was driving so I pulled off the highway at one point just to snap a picture:
Looking forward to more driving tomorrow morning, the Fest and the drive up Mount Washington to another beautiful sunset.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
TDIFest 2015 Was awesome! This is the first one I have attended and I hope to do it again. There are tonnes more pictures in the picture thread, but here is a special one from the top of Mt. Washington:
mrrhtuner
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Location
- London Ont Canada
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta Wagon TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2015 Touareg TDI
Wow, that looks like an excellent view.
GTiTDi
TDIClub Enthusiast, Macht Schnell! Vendor , w/Busi
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2010
- TDI
- '91 GTI CJAA swap,'02 Jetta wagon ALH swap, '03 GTI 1.8T rally car, '03 Sprinter 3500
Nice pic! Good to meet you and see the NarfBlast Golf in person! Great times!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
UPDATE: Running great, just a little loud due to an exhaust leak from the "clamped on" flex pipe... I really need to remove the down pipe and weld it up solid but I am guessing that will take a whole day which I just don't have due to my "day care" duties.
A couple of days ago a new intake elbow arrived, and I had a few minutes to replace it. A crack had opened up on my way to TDIFest. I stopped near Montreal and applied some duct tape and zip ties which held for over a thousand miles before they started to leak oil. It was one of those cracks that I think only opened up under boost. When it did it was spewing oil out the passenger side, coating the coolant overflow reservoir.
Here is the inside of my STEALTH RACE PIPE, thanks to Mr. Vermin for selling this to me; he told me it was originally modified by Wingnut and it feels special to have guru modified part on my car.
The oily mess spewing from the cracked hose and a look at the inside of the intake got me thinking.... so I went ahead and ordered one of those BMW cyclonic oil separators. Today I had some time to stop at Princess Auto:
I picked up some 3/4" PVC to connect the main hoses from the crank case vent, to the oil separator, and back to the intake:
Here is a picture of the funnel shaped BMW cyclonic vortex generator, zip tied to the oil filter housing, with 1/2" PVC tube clamped to the oil collection port at the bottom:
This oil separator is really neat, it spin dries the air entering it and sends dry air back to the intake. Before installing it I tried blowing into the intlet and you can hear the air whirring around inside. I had found were somebody cut one of these open and the design is really simple: air is forced to spin around the outside before it can go up the center and out. Here are some pictures of the outside and part numbers from ECStuning's site: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11151705237/ES19562/i
After a couple of trips today the main hoses still look clean but there was a few drops of oil in the lower collection hose.
Tomorrow is my wife`s birthday so I am leery of asking for some garage time but if I could I would remove the down pipe and weld it solid. If only I had more time.
A couple of days ago a new intake elbow arrived, and I had a few minutes to replace it. A crack had opened up on my way to TDIFest. I stopped near Montreal and applied some duct tape and zip ties which held for over a thousand miles before they started to leak oil. It was one of those cracks that I think only opened up under boost. When it did it was spewing oil out the passenger side, coating the coolant overflow reservoir.
Here is the inside of my STEALTH RACE PIPE, thanks to Mr. Vermin for selling this to me; he told me it was originally modified by Wingnut and it feels special to have guru modified part on my car.
The oily mess spewing from the cracked hose and a look at the inside of the intake got me thinking.... so I went ahead and ordered one of those BMW cyclonic oil separators. Today I had some time to stop at Princess Auto:
I picked up some 3/4" PVC to connect the main hoses from the crank case vent, to the oil separator, and back to the intake:
Here is a picture of the funnel shaped BMW cyclonic vortex generator, zip tied to the oil filter housing, with 1/2" PVC tube clamped to the oil collection port at the bottom:
This oil separator is really neat, it spin dries the air entering it and sends dry air back to the intake. Before installing it I tried blowing into the intlet and you can hear the air whirring around inside. I had found were somebody cut one of these open and the design is really simple: air is forced to spin around the outside before it can go up the center and out. Here are some pictures of the outside and part numbers from ECStuning's site: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11151705237/ES19562/i
After a couple of trips today the main hoses still look clean but there was a few drops of oil in the lower collection hose.
Tomorrow is my wife`s birthday so I am leery of asking for some garage time but if I could I would remove the down pipe and weld it solid. If only I had more time.
Last edited:
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
CCV oil separator update: shortened the vent tubes and added hose clamps. Also lengthened the collection tube.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Exhaust leak Repairs: Phase 1 - Removal
Over a week ago now, after a month of smelling exhaust in the cabin, I decided it was time remove the downpipe so that I could weld it up tight.
While removing the down pipe I broke two of three studs off the turbo housing:
I tried welding a nut on to one of the broken studs while the turbo was still in the car. I managed to shear that stud off again just below where the nut was welded on.
That is when I decided I would have to remove the exhaust manifold and turbo from the cylinder head. Those eight nuts came off surprisingly easy! All of the oil leaking from the intake manifold gasket saved my studs! The reason the intake manifold gasket was leaking is that I re-used it 10 years ago when I cleaned the intake. That was my first major do it yourself repair ever on any vehicle and I will always remember it fondly.
This is my first time removing an exhaust manifold, let alone a turbo. If I had to describe, in just one word, my feelings upon removing the turbo, it would be: thrilled!
Once the manifold and turbo were out, I had to consider these issues:
- studs are broken and need removing and replacing
- actuator is rusty and crusty and needs replacing
- actuator heat shield went missing, and is unobtainable
- shaft has play, after 527,000 km maybe it is tired
- turbo is 14 years old and I am asking it to make 30% more boost
I thought to myself, why should I bother with the broken studs on the old, tired turbo, when this is available:
Mahle VNT-15 Turbocharger (A4 ALH)
The Mahle VNT-15 is a lower cost, brand new (not rebuilt), direct replacement turbo that comes with a new actuator, heat shield, updated internals, and installation kit.
After checking with my wife, she said I should order it if, "it makes your heart sing."
I ordered it, and my heart is already singing.
It was only $4.95 for IDparts' economy shipping to Canada! Economy shipping means that it will probably arrive a week from next Tuesday, but that is okay! I still have to repair the old down pipe: I can mock that up against the old turbo with the one good stud and a nut.
If I get the downpipe done and the new turbo still has not arrived (unlikely), and I have an excess of garage time (even more unlikely) then I have a set of Audi TT lower control arm bushing to install while I wait.
Good times.
Over a week ago now, after a month of smelling exhaust in the cabin, I decided it was time remove the downpipe so that I could weld it up tight.
While removing the down pipe I broke two of three studs off the turbo housing:
I tried welding a nut on to one of the broken studs while the turbo was still in the car. I managed to shear that stud off again just below where the nut was welded on.
That is when I decided I would have to remove the exhaust manifold and turbo from the cylinder head. Those eight nuts came off surprisingly easy! All of the oil leaking from the intake manifold gasket saved my studs! The reason the intake manifold gasket was leaking is that I re-used it 10 years ago when I cleaned the intake. That was my first major do it yourself repair ever on any vehicle and I will always remember it fondly.
This is my first time removing an exhaust manifold, let alone a turbo. If I had to describe, in just one word, my feelings upon removing the turbo, it would be: thrilled!
Once the manifold and turbo were out, I had to consider these issues:
- studs are broken and need removing and replacing
- actuator is rusty and crusty and needs replacing
- actuator heat shield went missing, and is unobtainable
- shaft has play, after 527,000 km maybe it is tired
- turbo is 14 years old and I am asking it to make 30% more boost
I thought to myself, why should I bother with the broken studs on the old, tired turbo, when this is available:
Mahle VNT-15 Turbocharger (A4 ALH)
The Mahle VNT-15 is a lower cost, brand new (not rebuilt), direct replacement turbo that comes with a new actuator, heat shield, updated internals, and installation kit.
After checking with my wife, she said I should order it if, "it makes your heart sing."
I ordered it, and my heart is already singing.
It was only $4.95 for IDparts' economy shipping to Canada! Economy shipping means that it will probably arrive a week from next Tuesday, but that is okay! I still have to repair the old down pipe: I can mock that up against the old turbo with the one good stud and a nut.
If I get the downpipe done and the new turbo still has not arrived (unlikely), and I have an excess of garage time (even more unlikely) then I have a set of Audi TT lower control arm bushing to install while I wait.
Good times.
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Exhaust leak Repairs: Phase 2 - Cat and Resonator
Had a couple of hours to make some sweet progress today.
Time to start cutting up the old exhaust:
Still waiting on the new flex pipe but everything else in this picture will be used:
Catalytic converter, resonator and adapter just slid together for fitment, need to weld these three pieces together:
Had a couple of hours to make some sweet progress today.
Time to start cutting up the old exhaust:
Still waiting on the new flex pipe but everything else in this picture will be used:
Catalytic converter, resonator and adapter just slid together for fitment, need to weld these three pieces together:
FreshOntarioBeetle
Well-known member
Definitely need a video once that turbo is in. My heart would definitely be singing too if I got the go ahead from that purchase. Shocked the original turbo lasted that long to be honest.. That's impressive!
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Thanks bobt2382 and FreshOntarioBeetle, I can't wait to make that, "First start with new turbo" video.
Update: Still waiting on parts...
Last night about 9pm I got littlest kid down to sleep and I told my wife I was going to take out the garbage. It was a warmer night that it had been for a few weeks and I felt inspired to pick up and clean all of the nuts, bolts, parts and tools from under the car. I didn't go back in the house until after 11pm but it is a very good feeling to know this is waiting for me, and for the parts to arrive:
Update: Still waiting on parts...
Last night about 9pm I got littlest kid down to sleep and I told my wife I was going to take out the garbage. It was a warmer night that it had been for a few weeks and I felt inspired to pick up and clean all of the nuts, bolts, parts and tools from under the car. I didn't go back in the house until after 11pm but it is a very good feeling to know this is waiting for me, and for the parts to arrive:
NarfBLAST
Top Post Dawg
Exhaust leak Repairs: Phase 3 - New Turbo
My new turbo arrived today, and it is more beautiful than I imagined:
I bolted it to the head this afternoon:
Again I got the littlest one down to sleep around 9pm and headed out to the garage.
The first thing I wrestled with was a new lower turbo support bracket. That seemed to take and hour. I guess I should have started the two bracket bolts before tightening all of the nuts to the manifold. I ended up enlarging the hole in the bracket rather than loosening the manifold. Once the bracket was in I could install the oil drain line:
Next I installed the first 10 inches of the down pipe, and that seemed to to take way too long for just three nuts.
When I looked at my watch it was past 11pm and I thought I would clean up all the sockets and wrenches from under the car and call it a night. I was tired, and I should have got to bed then, but I thought maybe I could just install the intake manifold.
That is when things got interesting.
I could not get the passenger side corner of the intake manifold to pull up against the cylinder head. Something was binding. I pulled it off and put it back on a few times. At first I thought it was the heat shield on the exhaust manifold, so I removed that, but the intake manifold was still binding.
I quickly discarded a few unhelpful emotions and decided to use logic: I could not see what was binding, but it should leave a mark in the soft aluminum. I tightened the far passenger side bolt one full turn beyond where it started bind and the manifold was still a good 4mm from head. I pulled it off and found the mark at the very bottom of this picture:
I figured I had found the problem, so I filed it down:
And fitted it again, and it got a little closer but still bound up, and I found this new, shallower mark:
A little more filing and the I was able to mount the intake manifold, and its gasket, with just my fingers and without binding.
By the time that was done it was 1am and I figured the hard part was done but I was too tired to enjoy any more garage time tonight.
My new turbo arrived today, and it is more beautiful than I imagined:
I bolted it to the head this afternoon:
Again I got the littlest one down to sleep around 9pm and headed out to the garage.
The first thing I wrestled with was a new lower turbo support bracket. That seemed to take and hour. I guess I should have started the two bracket bolts before tightening all of the nuts to the manifold. I ended up enlarging the hole in the bracket rather than loosening the manifold. Once the bracket was in I could install the oil drain line:
Next I installed the first 10 inches of the down pipe, and that seemed to to take way too long for just three nuts.
When I looked at my watch it was past 11pm and I thought I would clean up all the sockets and wrenches from under the car and call it a night. I was tired, and I should have got to bed then, but I thought maybe I could just install the intake manifold.
That is when things got interesting.
I could not get the passenger side corner of the intake manifold to pull up against the cylinder head. Something was binding. I pulled it off and put it back on a few times. At first I thought it was the heat shield on the exhaust manifold, so I removed that, but the intake manifold was still binding.
I quickly discarded a few unhelpful emotions and decided to use logic: I could not see what was binding, but it should leave a mark in the soft aluminum. I tightened the far passenger side bolt one full turn beyond where it started bind and the manifold was still a good 4mm from head. I pulled it off and found the mark at the very bottom of this picture:
I figured I had found the problem, so I filed it down:
And fitted it again, and it got a little closer but still bound up, and I found this new, shallower mark:
A little more filing and the I was able to mount the intake manifold, and its gasket, with just my fingers and without binding.
By the time that was done it was 1am and I figured the hard part was done but I was too tired to enjoy any more garage time tonight.
Last edited: