Temporary fix (or tricks) for drain bolt oil leak

[sands80]

I noticed that I have developed an oil leak around the oil pan drain bolt. Its not a significant leak, but enough to leave 2-3 drops of oil on the garage floor every now and then. I know to best solution is to replace the oil pan, but right now I don't have the time to do that on this oil change cycle.

Do you have any recommendations on a quick fix until the summer? I have tried buying a new drain bolt, but that didn't work. Would anyone recommend a nylon or rubber washer on top of the metal one that already comes with a new bolt?

 

[Tdijarhead]

Back the bolt partially out put some rtv just underneath the head and turn it back in. Next time you do an oil change keep the rtv handy and put some on the plug when you reinstall it. It doesn’t need a lot, just a bit right underneath the head of the bolt.

You really don’t want to get the rtv into the pan lest your oil pickup tube look like this.

 

[GreenLantern_TDI]

Drop the oil. Clean the pan/threads spotless. Purchase a can of X-pando pipe joint compound and use it on the threads as directed on the can to Install a F106SX fumoto. New Generation Valve with 14mm-1.5 Threads. The xpando will seal the threads permanently. No need to replace the pan until you so choose to do so. Personally thats how id leave it.

 

[adjat84th]

Is it possible the insulating foam material is just soaked and slowly dripping?

 

[Nuje]

Is it possible the insulating foam material is just soaked and slowly dripping?

That was going to be my question, too. Given how oil spills all over the place when you do an oil change (at least, until you figure out how to do it a little more cleanly), the insulation around the drain bolt gets drenched.

First time I did my oil, I was convinced I'd developed a leak or the crush washer was messed up because my rag kept wiping away giant gobs of oil.

 

[740GLE]

if you're seeing oil on the garage floor it's weaping past the splash shield right? kinda hard to say its from the plug (unless you see only oil on the splash pan under the drain plug)

either way i've never had an issue with stock OEM bolt and the metal washer, what are your torquing it down to?

 

[sands80]

Is it possible the insulating foam material is just soaked and slowly dripping?

That was my first thought also, so I removed the insulation foam plate and watched if it was still leaking - it did...

 

[thundershorts]

local dealer replaces drain plug with every oil change, it was 2 bucks...sounds reasonable to avoid leaks.

 

[Nuje]

That seems like....overkill? With over 20 oil changes on the drain plug on my Mk4....I don't view the drain plug as a "wear part".

 

[thundershorts]

Whats the big deal spending two bucks every 10k miles to ensure no leak. Maybe dealer doesn't want comebacks.

 

[adjat84th]

I replace the copper washer every time. I believe you have to snip the original off the first time. Never had any leaks on either Mk4 or 7.

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[AGOODHI]

local dealer replaces drain plug with every oil change, it was 2 bucks...sounds reasonable to avoid leaks.

is that why the IDParts kit comes with one? i replace the plug/washer each time too.

 

[Ooga]

I replace the copper washer every time. I believe you have to snip the original off the first time. Never had any leaks on either Mk4 or 7.
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This...do this first. A box of the copper crush washers are something like a dollar for 20 on rockauto.

 

[sands80]

Thanks for those great ideas- never thought abut sealing it with a Fumoto. I certainly see a Fumoto in my future.

As for purchasing a new plug at each oil change, I have done that last 2 changes, but sadly the leak has persisted. Last week I had picked up an oil filter from the dealership and told them about the leak from the drain bolt they gave me a new plug and what looks like a metal (aluminum?) crush washer to try. The crush washer seems to fit. It was free so I couldn't say no...

A crush washer on top of the metal washer that comes with plug ?

 

[jetlagmech]

Normally the copper crush washers doesn't go on with another washer. only the copper washer between the bolt head and surface. Since the plug has a captured washer I would probably try an o-ring or RTV

 

[thundershorts]

the aluminum washer that comes with the drain plug is soft enough to crush and make a good seal and will not if used with the copper one on top of it. The copper one prevents it from sealing as it should. If you just replaced the aluminum washer each time, the steel drain plug should work many times. I suspect they don't sell the washer separate from the drain plug.

 

[thundershorts]

Re using the aluminum washer is iffy and prone to leaking after used once....and thats enough to piss off even the Easter bunny...

 

[Mike_04GolfTDI]

You could try Teflon tape on the threads. It’s meant for sealing pipe threads, but it’s cheap so it won’t cost you much to try it.

 

[740GLE]

I have to eat crow.

@ 50 & 60K oil changes i had noticed weeping (not enough to drip to splash shield) and swapped the OEM plug to idparts supplied metal neard plug with copper washers, I had no issues with the 70k with copper washer and my calibrated wrist.

Beginning of March had the 80k oil change, new copper crush washer, I have since noticed it marking it's territory in the garage, so enough has passed the drain plug to fill up the splash shield and drip down. I got under the car and got another 1/4 turn on the oil drain plug which was beyond 30NM clicking of the torque wrench, I probably had about 40-45nm on the bolt.. I cleaned the weepage from the plug and crossed my fingers. After driving the car and letting it sit overnight, garage marking has come back.

I'm almost thinking backing the bolt off 2 turns and trying a little RTV, but i'd be shocked that seal to oily surfaces.

Other thought was to finally pick up an oil extractor, pull the oil from the dip stick and slap a fumoto on it with RTV and never worry about it again.

Thoughts?

So far we've put on about 800 miles, low oil light hasn't come on but i'd wager a good solid 2 cups have weeped out.

 

[pedroYUL]

You could try Teflon tape on the threads. It’s meant for sealing pipe threads, but it’s cheap so it won’t cost you much to try it.

This is exactly what I did to my wife's GWS!

The very small leak was there when we bought the car, so I assumed someone over-torqued a bolt in the past. Tried a few different (new) bolts, until decided to give teflon tape a try...works a charm, super easy fix. IIRC, I just removed the bolt, plugged the hole with my thumb while swapping to a pre-taped new bolt, captured the leaked oil on a clean pan and back in it went.

I do evacuate the oil, so that bolt is not going to be touched ever again (hopefully).

 

[740GLE]

Thanks that's option 3 and saves me the fumoto valve I've tried my hardest to picking up an oil extractor but it might be worth it.

 

[740GLE]

Well with an $84 extractor on hand, a teflon taped drain plug ready to go, I just pulled the belly pan off and checked for leak by the plug, bone dry. I guess the garage staining was my lazy ass not cleaning the belly pan and residual oil dripping off.

I'll hit the belly pan with simple green and hot water and try my best then keep my eye on it.

I now own an oil extractor which i never thought i'd ever own but i'll put it to good use.

 

[s_ribs]

Well with an $84 extractor on hand, a teflon taped drain plug ready to go, I just pulled the belly pan off and checked for leak by the plug, bone dry. I guess the garage staining was my lazy ass not cleaning the belly pan and residual oil dripping off.

I'll hit the belly pan with simple green and hot water and try my best then keep my eye on it.

I now own an oil extractor which i never thought i'd ever own but i'll put it to good use.

Off topic but since you mentioned it, which extractor did you purchase? Considering one for myself and between one from ID Parts and this Topsider.

 

[740GLE]

EWK brand, flavor of the month off amazon, it kind of sold me on the manual AND compressed air operation, seems like a decent unit but can't say at longevity, I'll try it on our Alltrack in the next 3K miles see how it works. I'm doing about 3 oil changes a year between the 2 cars so it wont get a ton of use.
The one thing i'm concerned about is keeping the hoses clean and organized after use, my garage seems to be filled up with saw dust and spiderwebs pretty frequently. My goal is to keep them in original box as long as possible

 

[s_ribs]

I've seen that brand recommended as well. Thanks for the reply and sorry OP for the off topic.