TDI Storage Preparation -- What to do?

[WhistlinWagonKid]

Greetings all!

Since I cannot find a discussion on preparing to store your TDI, I've decided to ask the question myself.
I am going away for a few years, and I have decided to leave my TDI in indoor storage. I am curious if any of y'all have any recommendations for any type of preparation for storage. Besides the obvious interior and exterior cleaning, I plan on changing the oil & filter, changing the fuel filter and running some diesel purge, and filling my tank to the brim along with an additive to prevent bacteria growth. That is the extent of what I plan to do for engine prep. Since I will be storing it in the northern part of WI, I expect temperatures to reach quite cold -- down to at least -40 F. Should I worry about the coolant freezing? Or perhaps my tires leaking air because of the cold?

Thank you all for any input you might have, and for any other possible issues and remedies!

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Is the car going to be inside?

 

[WhistlinWagonKid]

Is the car going to be inside?

yessir! It’ll be in a non-heated indoor storage unit.

 

[Andyinchville1]

HI

In addition to what you said already for storage :

May be costly BUT some people BAG their cars (literally a big bag to put the car in .... possibly use dessicant etc). .... or store in a manned facility that will start the car / run occasionally etc.... if not that hard core see below :

1) Put car up on jack stands to take weight off tires also keeps tires from flat spotting or cracked sidewalls if tires deflate for whatever reason. Lower tire pressure 10 or so PSI .

2) If in a rodent free storage unit crack windows open to allow air circulation inside car.

3) may want to figure potential rodent traps / poisons etc if potentially not rodent free

4) Battery tender

5) Maybe a friend can start the car every once in awhile to keep stuff lubed engine wise / use AC to keep seals lubed up etc,,,

6) Jetta rotors tend to rust when sitting ... maybe some sort pf rust preventative on them.

7) Make sure radiator fluid is OK for temps car may have to endure.

There may be other stuff too but I think that is most of it as far as I can think of.

Andrew

 

[ticaf]

A few years, like 3 years? More?
Probably not the answer you are looking for, but wouldn't it be better to sell the car? Or possibly lend/rent it to a friend to keep it running.

 

[jmodge]

I would second selling it, other than being in a temp and humidity controlled building you will probably come back to a lot of work

 

[Thunder Chicken]

^ ya I’d think the brake calipers would seize up, and the AC will develop a leak at the least, so be prepared for that upon return. I’d also want to crack the windows if it’s safe/ not too dusty to do so, have mouse poison somewhere, maybe even a light car cover. An antifreeze tester would be cheap insurance to see what its strength is at now, adding some coolant to bring it up to -40 may not be a bad idea!

 

[ToxicDoc]

Flush and replace all the brake fluid! Seized/rusted brake components are typically the most expensive parts of recommissioning a car that was previously working. Last thing you want is a ruined ABS controller.

Use plenty of baited mouse poison in the storage unit (enough to last however long it might be stored), jack stands, car cover, remove battery from engine bay (keep it on a battery tender or simply be prepared to buy a new one when you recommission the car).

 

[Powder Hound]

Just dip the whole bloody thing in cosmoline and hope for the best.

Cheers!

PH