Should I reuse this clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate?

[crisp006]

So here’s the deal. I killed my Jetta by hitting a rock and starving the engine of oil and am in the middle of swapping in a replacement engine (which I’ve already replaced the timing belt on).

As it so happens, I’m leaving the country in a few months (yeah, it’s silly to revive a car if I’m moving away, but I’m attached to my TDI and will be visiting at least once a year so I’ll have a vehicle to drive when I do), so I want to spend as little money as possible on this engine swap.

Now my question is this: if the car is only driven 2,000 km ish (1242 miles for you Americans and Brits) per year for the next 5-8 years (how long I plan to be away for), will this clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel likely hold up without grenading in spectacular fashion?

My feeling is the clutch disc itself will be fine (it has a minimum of 1mm before it hits the rivets), and total thickness of about a quarter inch, and the flywheel itself isn’t in the best of shape but is OK. What I’m most concerned with is actually the pressure plate. Would any experts on here be able to chime in about whether those 4 small cracks are a normal sort of occurrence and whether there’d be a risk of them expanding in a fashion that’d make reusing this clutch assembly in general not worth the risk?

Could anyone chime in with any thoughts on this or more generally the useability of the entire clutch assembly as pictured for another 10,000 miles maximum?

I don’t need any lecture over how you think I’m a cheapskate because I’ve invested plenty of money getting a replacement engine and timing belt kit etc (plus my time ... ) for a car that realistically I should’ve scrapped. The reason I want to save this car is because it has sentimental value (belonged to my grandmother) and I’m attached to it. I’d much rather spent that $500 ish (Canadian) on a clutch kit in 5-8 years upon my return than spending it now when money is tight. But obviously if you think it’s in absolute, unequivocal, dire need of replacement (or I might send the assembly through the bell housing at 3800 rpm!) please let me know.

Thanks in advance if you can provide any constructive feedback!

91BE2383-80F8-46D6-8D9D-B9AA31607ADA.jpeg

• crisp006
• Oct 17, 2020

B69B8B49-0CCF-4805-B304-3D7FBFB00CD9.jpeg

• crisp006
• Oct 17, 2020

15D1E4E8-C8E3-4277-A5AB-69E54A44E6BF.jpeg

• crisp006
• Oct 17, 2020
• 1

 

[KrashDH]

I'm not going to sugar coat this for you but I will give you an honest opinion.

You just invested thousands probably on a new engine/TB kit...a d your time=$$

Why on earth would you want to reuse that clutch? The DMFs can fail catastrophically. You pressure plate is hammered (cracks you said? and you're missing a finger I guess it's normal not to have that finger). Your throwout bearing is probably in terrible shape. Plus, a sitting car is way worse than one that gets driven often IMO.

When you've invested a lot of time and money as you have, it's like putting a ticking time bomb back into the car. When it goes, at minimum you're pulling the transmission out again, which isn't fun when the car is 100% together. You'll kick yourself for not doing it now

You can get a good clutch for under $500. The Luk clutch that fits these cars seem to be very popular and reliable. You may be able to save some dough and resurface your flywheel, but I wouldn't, I personally would go new, but thats me.

I had to do this job a few weeks ago. I got back from a month long trip. Pushed the pedal in and started it, and noticed a FAINT thumping/rattling sound. I thought man, the sound only happens when I push the pedal in, and it doesn't sound like a throwout bearing. I made the decision, despite not wanting to, to pull the transmission.

Glad I did


Sure looks like we're missing the same finger... Edit: Apparently this is normal...

 

[Tdijarhead]

I think there is always a finger missing on these even a new one. However just an FYI I don't normally buy important parts from Amazon but this is a good price on a LUK DMF.

Amazon.com: LuK 17-050 Clutch Kit: Automotive

Buy LuK 17-050 Clutch Kit: Complete Clutch Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[KrashDH]

I think there is always a finger missing on these even a new one. However just an FYI I don't normally buy important parts from Amazon but this is a good price on a LUK DMF.

Amazon.com: LuK 17-050 Clutch Kit: Automotive

Buy LuK 17-050 Clutch Kit: Complete Clutch Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Interesting I didn't know that the "missing" finger actually wasn't supposed to be "missing" haha.
Oh well, guess that may have not been my noise then. I guess either way, my throwout was trashed, glad I got a new clutch in there. Good to know though! (Edited my post above for the OP)

My new SB clutch is all Sachs components (SB makes the disk is all) and there were no fingers "missing". I wonder why that design? Access?

 

[ToxicDoc]

I don't think it'll grenade as you ask, but that flywheel and pressure plate took a beating and had high heat. I think you risk the clutch slipping prematurely, maybe 10k miles (which would last the time you're away) maybe 1k (only 1 year). it's a roll of the dice.

 

[Nero Morg]

I'll be honest, and I hate to say it. Sell it, and when you're back, lease or rent a car. A car sitting that long, especially a diesel, is really hard on it. Rots out the rubbers, moisture gets into the fuel, inside the engirn ect. It's recommended to run an engine for at least 30 minutes once a month if it's going to be in storage. Friend of mine just out of the armed forces, he has a 2006 f305 with the 6.0 in it. Left it in the hands of someone who was supposed to start it up once a month for five years. He didn't. He ended up blowing a head gasket and the egr cooler a month after being back.

I can understand the attachment to these cars, I almost always root to keep them. But sitting that long could lead you stranded because of something as silly as a plugged fuel filter.

 

[300D]

The biggest pain and largest expense in time is the process of getting to the clutch. If the engine is out definitely do the clutch. IDParts has a SMF clutch kit for a pretty good price, $360 for everything. I am kicking myself for not upgrading from a perfectly good clutch when I had my engine out. It’s so easy at that point.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Right now is the easiest time to replace the clutch. That flywheel and pressure plate look very hot.

 

[Genesis]

The LUK replacement that is on Amazon and elsewhere is inexpensive, it's got somewhat more holding power than OE, and for a stock or lightly-modded (e.g. modest tune OR nozzles, but NOT both!) it's a great choice. Oh, and did I mention its inexpensive?

I'd be VERY upset if I had to yank the transmission back out six months later because I didn't do it, but the question really is "what's your time worth"? Mine is worth enough to not wind up doing that job twice on short duration

 

[Nuje]

Yeah - you can get the Luk 17-050 RepSet (disc and pressure plate already bolted to - included - DMF; throwout bearing also included) for <$350CAD (RockAuto), delivered. Future You will thank Today You profusely for (a) not having to worry about it; (b) not making you do a clutch job when all you really want to do is drive your car.

 

[PakProtector]

I would not put in a used clutch unless timing was biting me right on the back side. I did it once, but the used clutch in question was one I knew its life history and it got a new T_O bearing when it went back together. For something like this, the 17-050 is a very nice clutch. Hope it you can arrange somebody to drive it from time to time...several years is a loooong time to sit.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[crisp006]

alright alright, I’ll get a new clutch thanks everyone for you input.

while we’re on the topic, because I plan to do some modding in the future with this car, could any of you recommend a good performance clutch?

I was learning towards the Southbend stage 2 endurance (probably a bit too much clutch though it’s good to have that room to grow) but have heard occasional negative rumblings about Southbend clutches here on the forum, regarding premature wear or flywheel issues.

Ive heard good things about DC clutches, would you guys recommend them over SBC?

*one thing to note is that this is a time-sensitive project and I’ve heard DC clutches can be slow to arrive... not sure if that’s presently an issue with them*

 

[crisp006]

Oh and to those of you who’ve mentioned that the car should not be left sitting, my dad will be driving it weekly and has done before when I’ve been on holidays so that won’t be an issue

 

[Nero Morg]

OK, at least it'll be driven. South bend daily stage 2 is like OEM pressure for the pedal, and will take a stage 4 tune no issues.

 

[KrashDH]

OK, at least it'll be driven. South bend daily stage 2 is like OEM pressure for the pedal, and will take a stage 4 tune no issues.

I just put the daily Stage 2 from SB in a few weeks to ago. It's a lighter pedal for me then OEM! I couldn't believe it, was almost scary.

To the OP, I had heard of DC, but from talking to a few vendors they couldn't get them anymore? It sounds like SB is the only/last aftermarket company that doesn't outsoure any pieces to China for manufacturing, at least for these cars. Their kit uses a G60 flywheel, Sachs pressure plate (they paint it red but it has a "Sachs" stamp) and SB makesthe friction disk. That's where you get the extra holding power.

I've had issues with SB in the past, but on my Cummins. I'm on my second clutch from them in there, had to warranty the first one (but it cost me 2 clutch jobs grr..). But for the car they seem to be a great go-to. I was skeptical at first.

I'm still on the 500 mile break in period. But I don't see this thing slipping for tastefully modded cars

 

[crisp006]

I just put the daily Stage 2 from SB in a few weeks to ago. It's a lighter pedal for me then OEM! I couldn't believe it, was almost scary.

To the OP, I had heard of DC, but from talking to a few vendors they couldn't get them anymore? It sounds like SB is the only/last aftermarket company that doesn't outsoure any pieces to China for manufacturing, at least for these cars. Their kit uses a G60 flywheel, Sachs pressure plate (they paint it red but it has a "Sachs" stamp) and SB makesthe friction disk. That's where you get the extra holding power.

I've had issues with SB in the past, but on my Cummins. I'm on my second clutch from them in there, had to warranty the first one (but it cost me 2 clutch jobs grr..). But for the car they seem to be a great go-to. I was skeptical at first.

I'm still on the 500 mile break in period. But I don't see this thing slipping for tastefully modded cars

I didn’t know they were the only clutch maker (for these cars at least) not to outsource to China. I did see some other (admittedly less/not - discussed) companies online that are making clutches for our alh’s, but don’t know much about their quality.

regarding flywheels ive heard billets being recommended but I assume those aren’t the same as G60 flywheels.

Would you recommend the stage 2 daily then over the endurance? I was thinking of getting the endurance since it’s not all that much more and it has a bit more holding power.

What were your reasons for getting the stage 2 daily? I’ve heard it’s slightly more daily-driveable than the the stage 2 endurance but then I’ve also heard they engage the same so I’m not sure what to think.

 

[crisp006]

I just put the daily Stage 2 from SB in a few weeks to ago. It's a lighter pedal for me then OEM! I couldn't believe it, was almost scary.

To the OP, I had heard of DC, but from talking to a few vendors they couldn't get them anymore? It sounds like SB is the only/last aftermarket company that doesn't outsoure any pieces to China for manufacturing, at least for these cars. Their kit uses a G60 flywheel, Sachs pressure plate (they paint it red but it has a "Sachs" stamp) and SB makesthe friction disk. That's where you get the extra holding power.

I've had issues with SB in the past, but on my Cummins. I'm on my second clutch from them in there, had to warranty the first one (but it cost me 2 clutch jobs grr..). But for the car they seem to be a great go-to. I was skeptical at first.

I'm still on the 500 mile break in period. But I don't see this thing slipping for tastefully modded cars

also about the DC clutches I did also notice online they seem hard to find. I did find one site (Can’t remember the name now) that was selling new DC clutches but the only one I could see was a really expensive one for very highly modified TDIs (it was rated to 425 lb ft). I wonder what the story is with DC.

 

[Nero Morg]

I just went with a heavier flywheel (21lb) g60 style, non billet. The endurance will have a little more chatter than the daily, that's all I know. I have a stage 3 endurance, and it's more than double the clutch effort. Shocks anyone who drives my car.
Only reason I went to stage 3 is cause stage 2 was out of stock and my stock Valeo was slipping after a tune.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Did I miss it or did you say how many clicks are on that clutch. Is it original?

 

[crisp006]

Did I miss it or did you say how many clicks are on that clutch. Is it original?

It’s original. 127,000 miles on this clutch.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Even though I sell these things I'd put it back in. DMF/Clutch kits, if not abused, last pretty well. My son's OK kit in his Golf lasted 330K miles. Mine was barely worn when mods required its removal at 100K miles. And my '99.5 Golf's was still good when I took it out at 250K miles. Just use new flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

 

[crisp006]

Even though I sell these things I'd put it back in. DMF/Clutch kits, if not abused, last pretty well. My son's OK kit in his Golf lasted 330K miles. Mine was barely worn when mods required its removal at 100K miles. And my '99.5 Golf's was still good when I took it out at 250K miles. Just use new flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

Even with those small cracks in the pressure plate? (They’re kind of hard to see from the photos but there are 4). Other commenters seem to think I should change them. Do you think the wear isn’t that bad and I could get a lot more mileage out of these?

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Sorry, can't see them. But if you really are only going to drive it a few thousand miles in the next 5 years I'd save the money.

 

[Nero Morg]

DMFs have a stigma to them. They help reduce gear rollover noise created by the engine, but they are a bit more unforgiving when reused. I reused one once. Lasted three months until it started shuddering. It's not a gamble I'd take again.

 

[KrashDH]

I didn’t know they were the only clutch maker (for these cars at least) not to outsource to China. I did see some other (admittedly less/not - discussed) companies online that are making clutches for our alh’s, but don’t know much about their quality.

regarding flywheels ive heard billets being recommended but I assume those aren’t the same as G60 flywheels.

Would you recommend the stage 2 daily then over the endurance? I was thinking of getting the endurance since it’s not all that much more and it has a bit more holding power.

What were your reasons for getting the stage 2 daily? I’ve heard it’s slightly more daily-driveable than the the stage 2 endurance but then I’ve also heard they engage the same so I’m not sure what to think.

I've personally never tried the "endurance" version so I can't tell you which one is "better". I'm sure that they feel very similar honestly. Chatter doesn't bother me all so that wouldn't be a factor. Endurance might net you a bit more holding power than the daily. This car will never be a racer for me, so I wasn't too concerned. The stage 2 will be fine with what I plan to throw at it in the future.

All "billet" means is the flywheel is machined of a single piece or material...ie a chunk of material that's turned down or milled on a lathe. Nothing fancy at all, it's just a term.

Reason for me wasn't price or availability, it was just simply what I wanted in the car. In the future, I'll probably upgrade the sticks and add a tune. Maybe a turbo. I don't need gobs of holding power. I just want a reliable clutch that would do the job and provide more holding power than stock, and it fit the bill.

The Stage 2 daily is very driveable. It's also no more loud than stock. The ONLY difference I notice, and it's hardly noticeable, is the SMF while idling, you can "feel" it rumble in the car a bit more. The clutch is a bit more "grabby" as well.

For me, the pedal is lighter than what was in there OEM. This seems to vary between user's feel of the car and clutch, as well as the shape that the clutch was probably in. But I'm also used to driving a 3/4 ton Diesel with a SB clutch. It's got the upgraded hydraulics but compared to any car it feels heavy. It's a trip when I first jump in between driving the car and truck