rear license plate bracket

[BillyA]

Hi All,

Has anyone come up with a simple solution to actually put a "real" license plate bracket on the rear? The screws the dealer put in are really loose that hold the plate.

I was think about getting an audi or bmw bracket and mounting it using something like a threaded expansion bolt to hold it on with.

I did do a search and did not really find anything. Just curious if anyone else was think'n about this?

thanks,
bill

 

[Arne in Oregon]

Rear plate bracket

 

[BillyA]

Thanks, I was looking at something with 4 bolts (threads in the plastic protector). Audi has one, but it's pricey, and the BMW one is pretty cheap. I was think of attaching the bracket with an expandable thread system and then using the the normal threaded approach with the plate. I just think having wood screws is a bit cheap, and my are already lose. Or I will just buy a metal bracket.

The one in the link uses screws too, but I could but bolt through the other side with plastic spacers between the bumper and the plate.

thanks,
b

 

[deserthi]

Rear plate bracket

How is this any different? It still has to screw into the rear bumper.

 

[aznwhip]

I just ordered 1x#21 (Bracket) and 4x#22 (rivets).

http://www.vwdiscountparts.com/part...850&callout=21&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

 

[Arne in Oregon]

I just ordered 1x#21 (Bracket) and 4x#22 (rivets).

http://www.vwdiscountparts.com/part...850&callout=21&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

Please post pictures and real part numbers after you get them.

 

[deserthi]

How is this any different? It still has to screw into the rear bumper.

I guess this is it. The bracket is no different than just screwing the plate in except it uses rivets.

 

[aznwhip]

So got it in, unfortunately the bracket won't work. Holes are off. I shot a picture to dealer and he was confused cause according to their system, that bracket should be fine for the VIN. I'm probably gonna get the same bracket I have right now on my MB as this search for VW one is proving fruitless and it's just a stupid bracket.

 

[Fixmy59bug]

What part numbers did they send you?

 

[motoblue]

There was a thread on the Vortex about this and IIRC someone said that bracket was meant for Japanese plates. Wouldn't a bracket partially block the license plate lights anyway?

My dealer also used wood screws in the bumper which really looked cheap but have done the job so far, probably because the plate is not mounted to the hatch or any moving part so anything more heavy duty would probably be overkill. I did take the plate off to line the back with rubber bumpers and swap the screws with stainless steel bolts. If they become loose and enlarge the holes, I am going to go ahead and put in blind rivnuts, which is what they used in the MKV sedan (plate mounted to trunk lid).

 

[aznwhip]

I'll get the part number after I check it when I get home. I did recall reading that thread on Vortex about Japanese plates, but the dealership parts guy assured me after he checked my VIN that it would work. Guess not...

I'm constantly screwing and unscrewing my rear plates for shows which makes a bracket really useful, with no fears of ruining the threading. I'm also developing my own rear plate LED line that will be bright enough that even if it's partially blocked by the bracket, plenty of usable light will still be on the surface. Shouldn't be a problem though if I go with the MB bracket as it doesn't stick out much.

 

[aznwhip]

Part number 5K6-807-847-9B9

 

[motoblue]

My car just came back from the body shop to take out a couple of dents/dings I picked up over the winter, so I'm now OCD again about keeping her looking nice. That meant finally putting in the blind rivet nuts for the rear plate. This was an opportunity to correct the hack job the cross-eyed dealer did when he originally mounted my plate (slightly to the left and askew, with wood screws). The rivnuts now take 1/4" SS machine screws (I know I should've used metric but my rivnut kit is 1/4". Oh well).

No fancy tools. Just a hand tool you use with a couple of wrenches.

The hole for inserting the rivnut is over a half inch wide, so some conviction is needed to start this. But since the hole is so large, it let me correct the dealer's crap job by moving the holes to the correct position. Here's three down, one left to go.

 

[Trepex]

[...] The hole for inserting the rivnut is over a half inch wide, so some conviction is needed to start this. But since the hole is so large, it let me correct the dealer's crap job by moving the holes to the correct position. Here's three down, one left to go.

I LOVE this solution. I assume I could use this on the GTI, where they just screw into the plastic bumper, or do you think the rivets might damage the plastic?

Are rivnuts available at any brick&mortar stores or only online?

 

[deserthi]

I found a good deal on one of these tools with rivnuts on ebay... Item number 290549393286 It comes with different size aluminum rivnuts
Would this work?

 

[motoblue]

The GTI is the same as the TDI bumper, so it should work the same. I was concerned about the plastic too, since its thickness is maybe only 1/8". This works best in sheet metal but it came out very clean and tight on the ABS. Just go slowly and set the nut in stages.

Using the handtool was an advantage this time to a rivet gun since it forces you to go slow, and you can back out the mandrel before finishing to check for tightness (you can do this on a gun as well, but I find it's less precise). This lets you take baby steps and stop exactly when the nut gets tight enough to grab and hold the plastic (the nut has grooves behind the lip and the collapsing ribs to bite into the material you're setting into). If the nut is still not set in enough, just rescrew the tool back in and finish tightening.

The advantage of the gun is speed, but since this was just 4 nuts (or 2, if you don't need the bottom holes), the hand tool worked better for me. The problem with using a gun is that it's easy to overtighten when using it on a non-metal panel, since depending on the travel, one full pull of the gun might be too much and end up distorting the panel. The force is disguised by the lever so you really need to get a feel for it before trying it on the final piece. If using the gun, I would definitely practice 2 or 3 times on a scrap piece of plastic or similar material to see how much of a pull is needed to set the nut in softer material.

This was the setup I used. The silver wrench is fixed and holds the "anvil" collar in place. The black wrench is a ratcheting wrench that pulls the nut into the back of the panel.

I went slowly so all four nuts took me about 20 minutes. What I did was drill the hole smaller than necessary, use a Dremel sanding drum to get it down just enough to fit the nut snugly, then set the nut with the tool. The first one I did, I stopped after each half revolution, removing the tool to check the nut, and figured out 2 full revolutions was enough to set the nut sufficiently that it wouldn't spin when in use. The other 3 were easier after that, just stopped after 1.5 revolutions of the tool to check, then another half or 3/4 revolution to get it really tight.

 

[lonniebear]

.

Can you tell the size of these rivet nuts and where you got them and the tool?

 

[motoblue]

It's 1/4". They have 6 and 8 mm size too I think, if you want metric. This is the guy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U46ENU

I did the bottom two on the front plate bracket which let me see the back side. Nice clean attachment. No distortion of the plastic at all, and the rivnut is not going anywhere. I am thinking the bumper has to be at least as strong as the bracket so I haven't got any worries this is a permanent, clean solution.

 

[lonniebear]

I just picked up a cheap rivet nut gun at harbor freight for $17. Came with the .25 nuts. Picked up ss screws at ace. Worked really well. Thanks for the info. I hated the two wood screw through my bumper.

 

[Trepex]

I guess where I'm drilling into the metal on the wagon, I should prime the metal so I don't get rush, huh?

 

[BillyA]

I just check this thread and again, and thanks for the parts!

One question, I am going to order through Amazon, are those aluminum?

thanks!

-bill

 

[motoblue]

I guess where I'm drilling into the metal on the wagon, I should prime the metal so I don't get rush, huh?

I guess so? We have Golfs. The license plate attaches right onto the plastic bumper, so these are going into plastic. I thought the JSWs were already prepped at port?

I just check this thread and again, and thanks for the parts!

One question, I am going to order through Amazon, are those aluminum?

thanks!

-bill

Yes, aluminum.

 

[Trepex]

Isn't it bad to mix metals for screws and threads? Like if you get aluminum rivnuts, what screws do you use? I've always thought stainless threads/bolts are a pain and that stainless was bad for threaded applications in general? I guess I could use nylon screws in aluminum rivnuts?

 

[lonniebear]

Isn't it bad to mix metals for screws and threads? Like if you get aluminum rivnuts, what screws do you use? I've always thought stainless threads/bolts are a pain and that stainless was bad for threaded applications in general? I guess I could use nylon screws in aluminum rivnuts?

I'm not sure why stainless would be bad for threaded applications other than it's expensive. I used stainless with the aluminum rivet nuts. Works great. I wouldn't worry about mixing metals in this application. That's only a worry in extreme temp conditions where the materials have different thermal properties.

 

[Trepex]

I'm not sure why stainless would be bad for threaded applications other than it's expensive. I used stainless with the aluminum rivet nuts. Works great. I wouldn't worry about mixing metals in this application. That's only a worry in extreme temp conditions where the materials have different thermal properties.

Hmm I was pretty sure galvanic corrosion became an issue between the stainless and aluminum contact. Regarding stainless screws, I just remember my dad saying they were far more prone to thread galling.

 

[motoblue]

Sorry, I just saw this. Yes, corrosion can be a problem if mixing metals especially in a marine environment. This wouldn't apply to me (nowhere near the Joysey shore) but I always use a bit of anti-seize on the threads of exposed SS bolts anyway and haven't had any problems. If you think this is going to be an issue, they do have steel nuts (don't know if I'd use those in plastic, though) or aluminum bolts either way.

 

[Trepex]

Did this today with some #10-24 aluminum rivnuts that I got off eBay. Worked perfectly, I'm so happy! No more nylon screws I used stainless screws and sprayed a bit of lithium grease on the threads before screwing on the plate. Hopefully that helps with any corrosion or galling.

 

[lonniebear]

It seems anal but I just feel better knowing my plate is secured properly. Especially since I have specialty plates.

 

[Trepex]

Agreed. Order customs shortly