M
mickey
Guest
Remember those 4 nuts surrounding the bit "Number Three" that I told you not to remove? Remove them. Then remove the reverse shifting fork, and out come the shafts! Input shaft from the engine and clutch is lying down. Output shaft to the differential is standing up. Reverse gear shaft is the little stubby one.
Old and new! The ring gear will be reused. Those rivets need to be drilled out, which I'll do using my dad's drill press. That'll be part of the next installment of The Adventures of mickey and Peloquin!
The bearing races for the differential bearings are pressed into the housings. You're supposed to use a "special tool" to drive them out. I used a screwdriver. I would NOT recommend using a screwdriver! I did OK, but you might scratch up the aluminum housing in the process and cause a permanent fluid leak. If you really, really don't feel like ordering the correct tool you should use a brass drift to help prevent damage. At any rate, the race came out with a little persuasion. This photo shows the clutch housing. The transmission housing is similar. There is a shim under the race on the transmission housing, though, and if you ding it up you should take care to hammer it out nice and smooth again before you reuse it. (Why am I removing the races, you ask? Because the Peloquin comes with new, American-made Timkin bearings. The races for them come in the little boxes as part of the kit. My guess is you could use the new Timkins with the old races, but I wouldn't recommed it. You've come this far. Do it right.)
The manual says to heat the races to 100 C. (212 F.) and press them into the housings. I warmed 'em up with a torch a little bit and got them started. Then I alternately beat on them with a Mark One Chunk 'o Wood and re-heated them until they were properly seated. (Machine shop? I don't need no stinkin' machine shop!
)
Jumping back a bit: I KNEW there was a reason why I bought those seal pullers!
That's it for today's installment of "Gomer installs a differential." Tune in next time as mickey reprograms his ECU with a wooden mallet. (The "caveman" approach to automobile service.)
-mickey
Old and new! The ring gear will be reused. Those rivets need to be drilled out, which I'll do using my dad's drill press. That'll be part of the next installment of The Adventures of mickey and Peloquin!
The bearing races for the differential bearings are pressed into the housings. You're supposed to use a "special tool" to drive them out. I used a screwdriver. I would NOT recommend using a screwdriver! I did OK, but you might scratch up the aluminum housing in the process and cause a permanent fluid leak. If you really, really don't feel like ordering the correct tool you should use a brass drift to help prevent damage. At any rate, the race came out with a little persuasion. This photo shows the clutch housing. The transmission housing is similar. There is a shim under the race on the transmission housing, though, and if you ding it up you should take care to hammer it out nice and smooth again before you reuse it. (Why am I removing the races, you ask? Because the Peloquin comes with new, American-made Timkin bearings. The races for them come in the little boxes as part of the kit. My guess is you could use the new Timkins with the old races, but I wouldn't recommed it. You've come this far. Do it right.)
The manual says to heat the races to 100 C. (212 F.) and press them into the housings. I warmed 'em up with a torch a little bit and got them started. Then I alternately beat on them with a Mark One Chunk 'o Wood and re-heated them until they were properly seated. (Machine shop? I don't need no stinkin' machine shop!
Jumping back a bit: I KNEW there was a reason why I bought those seal pullers!
That's it for today's installment of "Gomer installs a differential." Tune in next time as mickey reprograms his ECU with a wooden mallet. (The "caveman" approach to automobile service.)
-mickey