New to TDI's needing a complete parts list for EGR Delete

[StudlyJudly]

Learning TDI's here. working on my daughters 94 Jetta, found a major vacuum leak and replaced the turbo actuator so she has turbo back now. However she drove it for a year without the turbo working, and now that I fixed it, I have a major oil leak coming from up near the egr cooler and intake manifold somewhere. I removed the intake a year ago and decoked it and always planned to egr delete, now seems like the perfect time since the leak likely is coming from the cooler or a line to or from it. As I shop online and read forum posts, it seems like some kits are complete while others are not? Some have block of plates only, some guys say to look for one that has a coolant hose for the new rerouting, and something about barbs? Do I need a racepipe too? Thanks for any help or reference to another thread that explains this. I also drained a quart of oil from the oil cooler by drilling a hole at the low point. I hope the oil isnt going by the turbo bearing too quickly and is the reason for so much oil leaking at the egr cooler? Great site by the way!

 

[Sword_of_the_Spirit]

TunemyEuro or any other TDI site like Darkside will set you up.

 

[oilhammer]

'94 Jetta?

 

[TurboABA]

'94...... '99..... close enough

 

[StudlyJudly]

'94 Jetta?

yes 94 tdi jetta. I did the egr delete, still getting a huge oil leak from top of the back of the engine somewhere. Was thinking it was a cracked egr pipe and hoping the delete would fix the leak. it didn't. thinking now it must be the valve cover gasket, so I have a new one ordered. also have a small fuel leak, determined it must be coming from the tandem pump so I got a rebuild kit for that. I plan to do the valve cover gasket first, then the tanden pump rebuild, drive it, if its still leaking then the intake gasket and exhaust gasket both of which i have on hand but would like to return if thats not the problem. Could be the intake as I had it off a couple years ago to decarbon and used the old gasket when I reassembled it. Love the car, it a BEW motor, but she drove it for a year with the turbo not working, now that its working I think I have higher manifold pressure under the valve cover, exposing a leak that was perhaps unoticeable before? Does that make any sense??? Thanks.

 

[TurboABA]

That would make it a MkIII not a IV as per your profile.....

 

[oilhammer]

OK, well unless you did some form of engine swap, there is no such thing as a 1994 Jetta TDI. Canada did get the AAZ diesel that year (we didn't), but that is not a TDI (Turbo Direct Injection). It is a 75hp indirect (prechamber) turbodiesel. The TDI in the A3 Jetta did not happen until 1997 model year.

And the BEW engine didn't come until 2004, and in a completely 100% totally different car.

 

[StudlyJudly]

OK, well unless you did some form of engine swap, there is no such thing as a 1994 Jetta TDI. Canada did get the AAZ diesel that year (we didn't), but that is not a TDI (Turbo Direct Injection). It is a 75hp indirect (prechamber) turbodiesel. The TDI in the A3 Jetta did not happen until 1997 model year.

And the BEW engine didn't come until 2004, and in a completely 100% totally different car.

Well, thanks for the info. Told you I am new to these, just trying to learn about them. I assumed it was a TDI because of the lettering on the back of the trunk lid that says "TDI", and "Jetta". I just did a VIN search and it came up as 2004 VW Jetta 1.9L Turbo Dsl SOHC 116 CID. Hopefully once I figure out what car we have, I can get some advice from you experienced guys on my issues. Thanks.

 

[StudlyJudly]

This Jetta has the funky Tandem fuel/vacuum pump combo, and I believe the guy at the local European motor shop told me it was a BEW engine if it had that tandem pump. I have very little paperwork on the car nor any manuals, so just trying to figure this out. I know its not an ALH motor as I have seen that engine in a neighbors car and it is not that. Mine has the tandem pump on the drivers side end of the engine, not in front like the fuel pump on the ALH motor. Also appears to have a different intake configuration. This article at this site : https://idpartsblog.com/ says TDI jettas from 2004-2005 switched to PD engine code and BEW.??? Thanks for the help.

 

[oilhammer]

OK, so it is not a 1994, but a 2004. Big difference.

Yes, that is a PD100 BEW engine.

The only thing that can leak oil on the back side of the engine would be the oil feed pipe to the turbo, or the oil drain tube from the turbo. There is not anything else back there that could leak oil.

The valve covers can leak all over the place, though.

And I think you may be confusing "coolers".

Oil cooler (engine oil), is the little aluminum box mounted below the oil filter housing, has two coolant hoses attached to it.

Intercooler (charge air), is the small radiator mounted down low behind the right (passenger) side lower grill.

EGR cooler is the long, waffle thing back near the firewall, with a lower and upper EGR tube attached to it, mounted via 3 bolts to the intake manifold itself.

ATF cooler (if automatic), is the round thing mounted atop the transmission, down sort of below the brake master cylinder, also with a couple coolant hoses attached.

 

[StudlyJudly]

My bad, 2004 Jetta. The leak is above the turbo oil feed pipe, i was thinking from the egr cooler or one of the tubes going to/from it. I removed the egr cooler with the delete kit thinking I might eliminate the leak but did not. Also don't want to have to de carbon the intake again. Next I will replace the valve cover gasket. My daughter ran the car for a year without the turbo working (had a bad turbo actuator which I recently diagnosed and replaced). Now we have turbo working again. As soon as I got the turbo working I got a massive oil leak. I drained the intercooler and got a bunch of oil out of it. Then the egr delete, next the valve cover gasket. Just astonished at the amount of oil leaking now that didn't before the turbo was fixed. I am attributing it to there now being a pressurized atmosphere in the intake manifold and perhaps the fast moving air from the turbo picking up oil that has just been sitting in the intake pipes and intercooler for the last year when the turbo wasn't working??? Also the reason for the valve cover to suddenly start leaking? Thanks for your help oilhammer!!!!! You have like 30000 posts or something! I feel priviliged!!

 

[TurboABA]

If the turbo wasn't being regulated properly for that long, it's probably barfing tons of oil past the seals..... check your charge pipes and even the compressor outlet for oil.

 

[StudlyJudly]

If the turbo wasn't being regulated properly for that long, it's probably barfing tons of oil past the seals..... check your charge pipes and even the compressor outlet for oil.

There IS oil at the turbo outlet, and in the pipes leading to the intercooler; not flowing oil but definitely a thick film and drops (small pools)in the lowest portions of the pipes. Are these pipes what you are referring to as the charge pipes? Could that oil somehow be responsible for my massive oil leak nearer the top of the engine? What are my options if oil is leaking past those seals in the turbo? Is the turbo rebuildable? Or better to replace the turbo? I've seen you tubers disassemble and clean the vanes in the turbo, but don't recall them replacing seals. Thank you TurboABA and Oilhammer! We don't have a lot of money and are just trying to do the best we can with what we've got, so we elect to rebuild when practicle rather than replace, but also realize there is a time to just replace!

 

[TurboABA]

Yes, that's what I meant by charge pipes.
You should be able to find a rebuild or good used turbo if you shop around.... I doubt you'll want to drop $1k on a new one.....
Try this guy if he's still around..... it's one of the better deals I've ran across

VW 1.9 BEW Turbocharger Beetle Jetta Golf TDI

Complete Turbo for 1.9 TDI (BEW) Engines. Fits 2002-2010 Beetle, VW Golf and VW Jetta, but only with the BEW engine code.

www.hansautoparts.com

Also, do some more diagnosing to ensure you're not just throwing parts at it.... did the shaft have play? Did it spin freely? Are you "consuming" oil? It's difficult for us to suggest stuff without seeing anything. Post some pictures, etc.

 

[StudlyJudly]

Yes, that's what I meant by charge pipes.
You should be able to find a rebuild or good used turbo if you shop around.... I doubt you'll want to drop $1k on a new one.....
Try this guy if he's still around..... it's one of the better deals I've ran across

VW 1.9 BEW Turbocharger Beetle Jetta Golf TDI

Complete Turbo for 1.9 TDI (BEW) Engines. Fits 2002-2010 Beetle, VW Golf and VW Jetta, but only with the BEW engine code.

www.hansautoparts.com

Also, do some more diagnosing to ensure you're not just throwing parts at it.... did the shaft have play? Did it spin freely? Are you "consuming" oil? It's difficult for us to suggest stuff without seeing anything. Post some pictures, etc.

Last time I had the charge hose off the turbo I reached in there and the turbo spun freely, and I could not detect any play. Pretty sure I am consuming oil, although the valve cover gasket is leaking so bad now that the turbo is working that I'm not sure that all the oil is coming from there only, or there and the turbo. I had read that there is always a little oil that passed the turbo by design, so I discounted an oil film in the charge pipe, but now I think its excessive. I think its coming from both the valve cover gasket and through the turbo because I have a very oil wet charge tubes all the way up to the intake manifold. I can drain some oil from the intercooler after running the car for only a short time. I think I am going to go ahead and order a rebuild turbo from hansautoparts.com. Also, the turbo seems to work great, good boost and no noise at all now that I have replaced the actuator and it is actually working. Like I said, my daughter drove it without the turbo working at all for a year while I was out of town for work related stuff. I am guessing something happened to the turbo during this time. Perhaps oil isnt circulating properly if the turbo is not being actuated???? Perhaps I'll wait to replace the valve cover gasket to verify its oil consumption and not just leak, but it is a fairly new valve cover gasket, 2 years old? that was replaced when we replaced injector harness in there. I don't know if vw valve cover gaskets are like subaru gaskets where they get hardened after heated up and therefore not reusable or not? Thank you all for your help. Local shop wanted $2600 to fix and they didn't even diagnose a bad turbo, only glow plug harness, tandem pump, and brakes. So far I am about $460 in including tank fuel pump, brakes, vacuum line at brake booster, glow plug harness, egr delete and turbo actuator. With the rebuilt turbo and gaskets I will be about $775 in. Car has 300,000 miles on it, body is a 8 and interior a 10. Love the car for the milage and the fun sporty way it drives. Manual trans. Thanks again for the help, my daughter is away doing Christian Ministry Missionary work for the next 18 months but I would like to get my wife driving this instead of her suburban!

 

[TurboABA]

A failed actuator would cause all sorts of issues... excessive backpressure, high EGTs, etc..... lots of things could've happened in a year of driving like that.
When you inspected the turbo, did you actually look at the wheels\blades? Checked for shaft play with a dial indicator? Checked for wheel to housing clearances and such? Or simply spun it to see if it was seized and said it's good?
It's not a far stretch to imagine that even a fully working turbo with that kind of milage on it would have leaky seals.... let alone one that's been malfunctioning for the last year.

 

[StudlyJudly]

So, here is a photo of the turbo. I don't have a dial indicator to measure play. Is this how those fins are supposed to look, split like that? It looks tired to me so since I am so far into it I decided to replace it. All I can say is that there is detectible play both side to side and laterally of the shaft, but barely detectible with my hands. It spins free and like I said it was working providing significant boost once I replaced the actuator and fixed the vacuum leak, but since I have it out and it has 300K mi on it, I chose to replace it with a rebuilt from HansAuto. Waiting on the delivery now. As you can see the output is not full of oil so it is not the source of my massive oil leak down the back of the engine. So it is either the valve cover gasket (unlikely as the gasket is 6 mos old and soft still) or the intake manifold. I had a bit of an epiphany the other night sleeping. I took the ill advice one time of decarboning the intake with the airhose and fire method. I am guessing I warped the aluminum intake mating face??? the intake manifold is full of oil residue and carbon again even though It was decarboned 10 miles ago. I guess I take the intake manifold to the machine shop where they put a precision metal bar on it to see if it is flat? and if not I guess I have them machine it flat. I am guessing this is where the oil leak is coming from. So, next question is why so much oil in the intake? I did the egr delete, and drained the intercooler and now have determined its not coming from the turbo. the only think left is the crankcase vent tube must be picking up too much oil and dumping it back into the intake manifold?

HOw does that crankcase vent tube work on these VW's? It appears that there is some sort of flapper valve inside the valve cover (integrated into the valve cover) that i guess is designed to allow vapor to pass but not liquid? I would say it is definietely letting liquid oil pass into the tube. the tube was all oily with liquid as was the intake manifold when i disassembled. I could see the entire edge of where the intake manifold meets the block was wet with oil leaking. I think its warped. I have a new gasket for it for when I re assemble, as well as a new exhaust manifold gasket and new valve cover gasket to install too. I have the valve cover off now for access improvement to the stuff behind it.
Thanks for helping this vw rookie out!

 

[TurboABA]

That is one rough looking compressor blade.... just wait until you get your replacement so you can have something to compare against!

 

[StudlyJudly]

cool, looking forward to the new turbo? Any insite as to why my crankcase vent tube would be passing so much oil? Is that little valve on the inside of the valve cover whre the tube connects repairable?
thanks.

 

[Lightflyer1]

So, here is a photo of the turbo. I don't have a dial indicator to measure play. Is this how those fins are supposed to look, split like that? It looks tired to me so since I am so far into it I decided to replace it. All I can say is that there is detectible play both side to side and laterally of the shaft, but barely detectible with my hands. It spins free and like I said it was working providing significant boost once I replaced the actuator and fixed the vacuum leak, but since I have it out and it has 300K mi on it, I chose to replace it with a rebuilt from HansAuto. Waiting on the delivery now. As you can see the output is not full of oil so it is not the source of my massive oil leak down the back of the engine. So it is either the valve cover gasket (unlikely as the gasket is 6 mos old and soft still) or the intake manifold. I had a bit of an epiphany the other night sleeping. I took the ill advice one time of decarboning the intake with the airhose and fire method. I am guessing I warped the aluminum intake mating face??? the intake manifold is full of oil residue and carbon again even though It was decarboned 10 miles ago. I guess I take the intake manifold to the machine shop where they put a precision metal bar on it to see if it is flat? and if not I guess I have them machine it flat. I am guessing this is where the oil leak is coming from. So, next question is why so much oil in the intake? I did the egr delete, and drained the intercooler and now have determined its not coming from the turbo. the only think left is the crankcase vent tube must be picking up too much oil and dumping it back into the intake manifold?

HOw does that crankcase vent tube work on these VW's? It appears that there is some sort of flapper valve inside the valve cover (integrated into the valve cover) that i guess is designed to allow vapor to pass but not liquid? I would say it is definietely letting liquid oil pass into the tube. the tube was all oily with liquid as was the intake manifold when i disassembled. I could see the entire edge of where the intake manifold meets the block was wet with oil leaking. I think its warped. I have a new gasket for it for when I re assemble, as well as a new exhaust manifold gasket and new valve cover gasket to install too. I have the valve cover off now for access improvement to the stuff behind it.
Thanks for helping this vw rookie out!

Not Hans auto! Bad juju there! Read up here on this guy. Has many, many web sites. Very low confidence buy there. Search here on this guy. Last place I would ever buy parts. I don't want to post his web site here.

Search results for query: Pete Rothenbacher

forums.tdiclub.com

Pete Rothenbacher

 

[StudlyJudly]

Not Hans auto! Bad juju there! Read up here on this guy. Has many, many web sites. Very low confidence buy there. Search here on this guy. Last place I would ever buy parts. I don't want to post his web site here.

Search results for query: Pete Rothenbacher

forums.tdiclub.com

Pete Rothenbacher

A Hans Auto turbo was recommended by a contributor to this thread further up. My first time ordering VW parts so I went with the suggestion. I received the turbo and the plastic plug on the actuator was broken. I emailed Hans Auto and they promptly sent another actuator at no cost to me and no questions. I installed the turbo and is seemed to work fine for two days. It is still working fine, but when I let off the throttle quickly I hear a sound like a "ratchetting down" sound for a couple seconds, this is new, and I can' t think of what it would be except for the turbo??? I just noticed it last night parking it after putting about 100 miles on it, and I hadn't noticed the sound before. It did go into limp mode one time, had to pull over and turn it off then on and it went back to normal. Hasn't happened again. It also suddenly yesterday began taking a lot more cranks to start? Never did that before, has always started quickly! Haven't had time to look into it but will today. I still have the old turbo that worked fine but at 300K miles, I thought I'd replace it since I had it out. I may put the old one in that I know still works and see if the sound goes away. I sure hope its not a bad turbo, optimistically hoping its just "breakin in " the new one, but I doubt that's the case. Anyone on here have any idea what that may be? I will get under it today and have the wife rev it for me to verify where the sound is coming from. Thanks all for the help on this. Was really encouraged after getting it all back together with no leaks for the first time since I owned it and working so well, hate the thought of having to do it again! My personal experience with Hans Auto thus far has been pretty good, although I had to chase all the threads on the manifold-turbo I received and clean it up some before assembling, but it wasn't too bad. Stuff I would have done anyway. Based on my experience so far, I would expect them to work with me on this next issue if it turns out to be the turbo. Bummer is I am in alaska, and it cost $50 each time to ship this 40 lbs one way!

Thanks again. Looking forward to hearing yall's ideas.
Jud

 

[Lightflyer1]

Your choice. Let us know how it all works out for you if you will.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Unfortunately there's nothing on a turbo that needs to "break in".

If you google "Prothe" you can form your own opinion about how likely it is your new turbo will be working as advertised and/or for how long.

 

[StudlyJudly]

Yeah, I guess I knew that answer. The ratchetting down sound only happens once at operating temp or after the turbo has been run a long time and is good and hot. It must be a heat expansion caused thing, but the turbo certainly should be built to handle all the common temperatures. I guess I'll run it a couple days and see if it gets any better, I just don't want to risk breaking a chunk of something of an impeller and have it go into a cylinder. I do have the old turbo that was working fine but had 300K miles on it, so I changed it. Maybe a case of don't fix what aint broke! I could put it back in last resort. I listened to it a little closer today after driving 30 miles and the sound lasts about a half a second or a little more now. Seemed fainter today??? I haven't had the chance to put my ear right at the turbo underneath the car to listen to it yet. Man I hope this works itself out! I am so ready to be done working on that car for a while! Like I said, its running fantastic, I have no leaks. I rebuilt the vacuum/fuel Tandem pump and it quit leaking oil from the crankcase vent and fuel from the tandem pump. Also put in new gaskets on intake, exhaust and valve cover and tandem pump.

 

[oilhammer]

LOL... Prothe....

 

[StudlyJudly]

Well I have about 500 miles on the turbo so far. The ratchetting sound seems to have completely gone away, and so far the turbo is providing significant boost and it is running as well as it ever has. I am thankful for this. Like I said, my experience with this company has been entirely positive thus far. You all have me concerned enough through all the comments that I am considering just hanging on to the old one in case you are right and my rebuilt turbo won't last....Undecided but leaning toward keeping it on the shelf. Perhaps I'll attempt a rebuild on that one myself. Thank you all for the information all the way through this process, I am liking these TDI's. Looking for another one now. Cheers!

 

[Lightflyer1]

Keep it on the shelf for now at least. Costs you nothing. Helps to have a part on hand when needed, especially if you are out there.