MKIV Clutch problems

[sdean7855]

Hoping to tap into the collective wisdom.
Background:
I had my original dual-mass clutch replaced at about 375K miles; I had to stomp the clutch all the way to the floor to shift. My reasonably reliable mechanic (mech#1) replaced it with a single mass. I had some subsequent problems (shifting was very difficult) which another mech (mech #2) determined was that one of the starter bolt had worked free, losing the bolt and a wire loom retention bracket. The main 150A cable from the generator then rubbed up against part of the shifter, making shifting hard and eventually chewing into the 150A main cable and blowing the 150A fusible link (alternator light came on crossing the GW bridge into Manhattan and wasn't it fun getting the car home). New mech got that sorted out....but a clean shift still requires the clutch go all the way to the floor....lift the clutch at all and immediately hear the engine start to load. Went over things with mech #1 who said he checked the clutch throwout lever and its plastic pivot point, also replaced the slave cylinder, bled and topped the hydraulics.
Questions:

1. Any suggestions for what else might be wrong?
2. Do single mass clutches requires more clutch pedal?
3. Does a double mass to single mass switch require any addition changes/part beyond the clutch disc? A different throwout lever, etc.?

Help?

I've included images of the battle of electrical cables vs. the shifter as cautionary info...

 

[GlowBugTDI]

1. Could be that your master cylinder is failing. Air bubbles in the system, a bad slave cyl, or a bent fork. Most likely not the slave if that didn't fix the problem (unless it was bad even upon installation).
2. More clutch pedal? you shouldn't have to change anything.
3. For a single mass conversion all you need is the flywheel, friction disk, and pressure plate. Everything else is the same.

TBH. If the starter bolt was missing after mech #1 replaced all this I don't know how much I trust the work. I don't know the background of everything, but if it was missing when he found it he should have mentioned it and replaced it. That or it plain out wasn't put back in or tightened correctly. A starter bolt isn't really something that just backs out. They are technically supposed to be torqued to 50 ft-lb. So it's not something that just loosens and falls off. Not to mention the amount of threads it would have to turn to do that.

 

[P2B]

At 375K miles the throwout lever and pivot point are worn and should have been replaced. This will cause your symptoms.

 

[Jbwoo]

^^^ exactly. I would replace the lever, pivot point, clip, and the shaft that the throw out bearing rides on, it has the input shaft seal inside. I won’t do a clutch without replacing all of those, super cheap insurance to not have to remove the transmission again.

 

[Tdijarhead]

At 375K miles the throwout lever and pivot point are worn and should have been replaced. This will cause your symptoms.

I agree, everything should have been replaced not just “checked”.

Hard are difficult shifts can also be due to improperly adjusted cables.

At the bottom of this page are several you tube videos on the function and adjustment of your shifter cables. I would review and adjust if you think that’s necessary.

Deluxe MK4 Shifter Bushing Kit

All the MK4 shifter bushings in one convenient, money saving kit! If your MK4 Shifter is sloppy you can buy this kit to get everything you need to make it great

dieselgeek.com

 

[ghohouston]

It absolutely could be and probably is caused by either worn bushings (link above) or mis adjusted cables.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Well that depends on weather it actually struggles to go into gear or that the clutch isn't wanting to fully disengage unless it gets all the way to the floor. They will have similar symptoms, but if the clutch won't disengage that will cause it to not want to go into gear. If your trying to put it into first and it grinds that's not a linkage problem.

 

[P2B]

requires the clutch go all the way to the floor....lift the clutch at all and immediately hear the engine start to load.

Not a linkage issue. As the pivot point wears the clutch engagement point gets closer to the floor and eventually does not disengage at all.