Mk5 front wheel hub

[ipacketeer]

Trying to replace the front wheel hub on my 2006 jetta tdi but, those 4 triple square bolts do not budge. I applied BP Blaster did not help, applied heat did not help used the air impact tool up to 135psi did not help. This is suppose to be easy just, take 4 bolts off replace the hub and put 4 new bolts on and done.
Can anyone offer any help?

 

[nord]

I wish I could offer a magic solution to your problem, but I can't. If it's any comfort the same brawny Mexican who tightened your front bearing did the center bolt on my rear bearing. It took a four foot "extension" on my ratchet to get the thing to move.

Each bolt was dabbed with locktite at the factory. Corrosion is unlikely but it's not uncommon for an impact wrench to be unable to loosen these bolts. The reason is mostly that tiny bit of play between the wrench and the bolt itself. It enables just enough slop to negate the impact. I've found that a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar is usually effective when an impact tool fails.

Bottom line here is that the bolts MUST come out. There's just no choice in this matter. You'll just do what needs to be done.

One last and VERY IMPORTANT suggestion: SHOCK! Take a hammer and give the cast spindle assembly several good blows at each of the bolt locations. This is most effective if done at the same time wrench pressure is being applied to the associated bolt.

Use eye and ear protection. I'd also suggest a pair of leather gloves to protect your hands though I'm sure you've already done it. Bear in mind that the end result must be the removal of these bolts and that there comes a point where the end pretty much justifies the means. Sometimes not pretty.

 

[740GLE]

what about the old school impact wrench? the kind you whack with a hammer?

 

[nord]

740,

If it works, use it.

I suspect, though, that the removal tools of choice will be a stout breaker bar equipped with a torque magnifier (length of pipe fitted over the handle) and a fair sized hammer applied to the spindle casting in the near vicinity of the reluctant bolt.

Sometimes the methods we must use aren't pretty.

 

[A5INKY]

That is the art of wrenching, understanding all the tools and methods that can be brought to bear, what order to use them and just how to do it. Can't tell you how many times my 1/2" drive, 650 ft/lb Snap-On air impact wouldn't budge something that a big breaker bar (often with a pipe slipped over it for more leverage) would, after a few choice whacks with a hand sledge on the fastener to help break the bonds.

Perhaps ost important is to use a good fitting quality tool so as not to tear up the fastener head. Once that happens it really gets fun.

For last ditch, the "hot wrench" (oxy/acetylene torch) has come out to concentrate some expanding heat to the part I need to have let go of the fastener many a time. Key is to isolate the part to prevent collateral damage and pay attention to the material and it's properties such as to not compromise any hardening etc. For that technique it would involve stripping and removing the spindle from the car, too much under there that doesn't want to be that hot.

Better to try everything else first!