Misfire #1 hole

[Haz-matt]

I think I have an injector failing on me. Or at least the car thinks it's failing.

Car has been throwing a low volume EGR error off and on, but it hasn't affected anything and I've been too sick to work on the exhaust side.

But now it's saying the #1 hole is misfiring. I can clear the code after it happens and it runs, stumbles a little but eventually throws the code again. Glad I was close to home and the power outlet was still working so I could get the scan.

Based on the scan or anything else you know, should I be looking at pulling the #1 injector and getting it rebuilt or replaced? Or should I be looking at something else?

Monday,30,September,2013,11:38:56:58551
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 997 016 P HW: 03L 906 022 J
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 8681
Software Coding: 0050078
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3FA399876E990BE0186
2 Faults Found:

001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 46
Mileage: 287568 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 23:26:15

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1449 /min
Speed: 45.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.83 V
Load: 90.2 %
Load: 100.0 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 315.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 410.0 mg/str

004663 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1237 - 000 - Open Circuit - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 290417 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 23:22:43

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2047 /min
Speed: 104.0 km/h
Voltage: 14.06 V
Temperature: 25.2°C
Temperature: 21.6°C
Inj. Quantity: 8.8 mg/str
Bin. Bits: 0011000


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0



Monday,30,September,2013,11:41:33:58551
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 379 AE HW: 1K0 907 379 AE
Component and/or Version: ESP MK60EC1 H35 0106
Software Coding: 113B400D492600FC880C02E6921F0042B100
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 75CF3BAFDC2581B002A
1 Fault Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 5
Mileage: 290417 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Count: 0
Count: 32768
Count: 4608
Count: 8193
Count: 51048
Count: 6
Count: 0
Count: 0



Monday,30,September,2013,15:18:39:58551
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 379 AE HW: 1K0 907 379 AE
Component and/or Version: ESP MK60EC1 H35 0106
Software Coding: 113B400D492600FC880C02E6921F0042B100
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 75CF3BAFDC2581B002A
1 Fault Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 6
Mileage: 290437 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Count: 16387
Count: 0
Count: 13056
Count: 8193
Count: 50176
Count: 2
Count: 0
Count: 1536

 

[Haz-matt]

Any good sources for injectors beyond the dealer?

 

[Mechnurse]

http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-injector-unit_915423.html

 

[JFettig]

Theres some on car-part.com, not sure what you think of used injectors

 

[nord]

EGR would immediately be suspect were the car to be mine. EGR will not always throw codes and other codes will often only provide clues to the actual problem.

So... Unplug the EGR electrical connector and go for a drive. A fault will be set but you'll know whether the symptoms persist. Note that you should probably inspect the EGR first and make sure the valve is closed.

 

[MyAvocation]

+1 on not throwing parts at it just yet.
My injector knowledge is nil, which is to say I may be over-simplifying this, but if it were mine I'd attempt to swap injectors, clear codes, go for a test drive, then rescan.

 

[Haz-matt]

That's probably a good idea. I'm going to get on that as soon as my cold clears up. Thing always breaks right when I get sick.

I'm not sure the EGR would make the motor shake like it's not firing on all 4, but then again, what do I know. LOL

 

[JFettig]

check the electrical connectors going to the injectors.

 

[MyAvocation]

As Nord recommended, disconnect the EGR cable and take a drive. Easiest way to diagnose EGR, provided it's not stuck open.
Keep in mind EGR does not function when engine cold, so if problem only occurs when warm, could be weak EGR actuator. Disconnecting the cable will confirm it.

 

[Haz-matt]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm probably going to be working on the car late next week as I have a few projects ahead of it and don't need it every day.

 

[Haz-matt]

Just got to the car, it's been a crazy month but I got it torn down. After tearing down the intake and cleaning it a little the car seems to run, but I only drove it for about a mile making laps of my driveway.

Also unlike the instructions on myturbodiesel (that I'm really grateful for) my intake doesn't have a bracket below the throttle valve.

Oh and don't leave your hood unlatched while it rains. Apparently the hood blanket will get soaked and mold. These pics aren't great but it was really cold out in the garage today.

 

[whitedog]

Off topic, but how long have you worked for Hank Rearden?

 

[Haz-matt]

Quite a while. LOL

 

[CoolAirVw]

Is you injector code still popping up? Did your misfire clear up?

 

[Haz-matt]

It hasn't popped back up yet, but it did stumble one time while I testing it. I need to do a road test but don't have time this morning as I have to get my dad to a doctors appointment.

I did pull the injector while I was 4 bolts and 2 nuts away anyway. There was a little carbon around the tip but I would say it was maybe 10% as much as was on the last working one I pulled out of my superduty.

I'll see what happens with it when I run it around this afternoon.

 

[Haz-matt]

Now that I had a chance to drive it a couple of miles, it threw this code 3 times, turned the coil light on, said engine fault workshop, then both went away. I think it may just be a moisture issue since it did sit for over a month and everything is pretty wet. But I thought I should ask, since I don't speak VW very well obviously.

Thursday,21,November,2013,15:50:52:58551
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 997 016 P HW: 03L 906 022 J
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 8681
Software Coding: 0050078
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3FA399876E990BE0186
1 Fault Found:

009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit
P2563 - 000 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 290465 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 03:49:59

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1311 /min
Speed: 68.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.91 V
Temperature: 360.0°C
Lambda: -27.6 %
Bin. Bits: 00001110
Voltage: 1.900 V


Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1

 

[JFettig]

Make sure you have the correct plugs plugged in - I forget which plug it is exactly but there is another just like the position sensor that will reach the position sensor - you might have swapped them.

 

[lou95gts]

I had a missfire on #1. It came and went for 20k. Then it stopped firing completely. Installed a new injector. No fix. Wiring was f....d. Changed the wiring harness and has been perfect since.

 

[Haz-matt]

I hope it is wiring and it's in the upper section of the harness cause I done already stripped and inspected the section from the transmission to the firewall. LOL

 

[lou95gts]

I tried to repair but instead bought a used Ebay harness from Europe. Around $100. New is around $350. The part # is near the battery. I think you need to remove the battery and tray if I remember. If you want I can look at my old one.

 

[Haz-matt]

This car makes me want to pull my hair out. My volt meter shows I have Voltage from the +pos terminal on the battery to all 3 wires on the sensor plug. The Brown wire has 13.5, the black/purple wire has 13.5 and the yellow/blue wire has 8.5v. But when I check them with a dumb 12v tester only the brown (ground) wire works.

That's not where the crazyness ends. From the Brown wire I have continuity to at least a half dozen wires at the other point in the harness I'm testing. (I left the probes pointing at them in the pic.) But not the other way.

 

[lou95gts]

Are you checking continuity from the injector all the way to the ECU plug? Doesn't look like you have the ECU removed.

 

[lou95gts]

Here was my hair pulling a year ago:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=371861

 

[Haz-matt]

I'm within probably 8 inches of where I checked the harness last year while I was having Mechtronic issues. I had the whole dash, ecu, and just about everything else torn down. Wrapping that thing back up is a pain.

I should probably at least eyeball the ECU bundle to see if a mouse got in there while the car was sitting.

I was hoping to get this thing back up and running soon cause my uncle has stage 4 cancer and I wanted to get my dad down to see him. But I'll have to see how fast I can get this thing back into running shape.

 

[Haz-matt]

I'm looking at the wiring diagram 127/16 in my Bentley book (Digital version as the paper version is out with the car). The Sensor G581 3 connection points I think I understand.

The li/sw on pin 2 goes to T50/58 on the ECU

The br/ro on pin 1 goes to D104, I'm pretty sure this is the ground but I'm unclear on it since I can't seem to find what D104 does. The description makes it look like a positive wire; D104 - Plus Connection 2 (30a) (in engine compartment wiring harness). But that would make it stand out because all the other brown wires I've worked on on this thing are grounds.

The ge/bl on pin 3 connects to D105 and that seems to be shared by a bunch of other sensors. The fuel pressure sensor and speed sensor for example

 

[Haz-matt]

I found a PDF online that walked through the checking of the harness and almost the sensor. Saturday morning I pulled out the baffle and ohm tested the 5v wire to the ECU. No problems and it ohmed out just fine.

So I decided to put the wipers back on so I was legal and drive it since I had to go to town on my one day off and grocery shop. Drove it 95 miles and didn't have a problem other than water in the blinker switch. When I would blinker left it would flash left. When I would blinker right it would flash left. But after I had the car warmed up for a while and used it a bunch it started working right again.

Now it did throw the code below, but this is the one its been throwing for a while. Could the cooler be clogged cause I cleaned all the upper parts?

Saturday,23,November,2013,14:03:45:58551
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBE.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 997 016 P HW: 03L 906 022 J
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 8681
Software Coding: 0050078
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3FA399876E990BE6AD9-806A
1 Fault Found:

001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 290559 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 01:25:40

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1633 /min
Speed: 34.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.98 V
Load: 100.0 %
Load: 100.0 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 480.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 475.0 mg/str


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

 

[lou95gts]

Removed my post. Re read previous.

 

[CoolAirVw]

did you pull the cover off the EGR valve to see if the gears are stripped?

 

[Haz-matt]

Yes, it was not stripped and moved smoothly

It may sound weird but this problem is the one that was popping up randomly before the misfire code started. It seems to happen mostly at start up when the car has been parked nose up or nose down.

 

[Haz-matt]

I notice the A6 guys are having problems with their low pressure filter. My soot loads are 13.5g (claculated) and 6.3 (measured), I think I may have to replace my filter but I drove the car to town today again to get parts for work and I didn't get an error code at all, so we'll see what happens after I put the baffle and other parts back in.