Low power and black smoke

[tactdi]

I am troubleshooting the typical low power and black smoke at low RPMs issue with my 2005.5 Jetta.
I recently purchased the car knowing that it needed a transmission, and probably a timing belt. I have read enough on this forum, and know that timing belts do need to be replaced at regular intervals. Of course the car needs more work than expected.

I have replaced the transmission and the flywheel and clutch (SMF/Sachs kit), and have moved onto the drivability issues.

The car has 146K, and no power and large amounts of black smoke below 3000 RPMs. The car did throw the P2564 code (and the car kicked into limp mode until either I cleared the code, or restarted the car 5 or 6 times, not sure which one cleared the limp mode).

I have read about all the different tests to perform for low power and smoke, and the possible parts that could be the cause, and I have worked through some of the tests. I have the VAG-COM on order, and will use it to check the values and operation of the typical parts that cause this issue.

I disconnected the MAF, no change is drivability. My neighbor has a 2006 TDI with 70K. He was nice to let me swap his MAF onto my car, which provided no change (still heavy smoke, no power). Plan is to check the MAF values with the VAG-COM.

For the EGR, when I had the transmission out, I checked the movement of the lever. It seemed to move freely. I could move the rod toward the passenger side of the car, and it would spring back (closed?). As a test I disconnected the EGR electrical connection from the solenoid, no change in drivability. I also disconnected the ASV electrical connector, with the EGR disconnected, no change.

The P2564 code could be caused by the N75 solenoid or a sticky VNT in the turbo. One vacuum hose from the N75 goes to the air box; one goes to the valve cover, and the third goes to the round object behind the valve cover in the center with the electrical connection (ASV valve?). Is this routing correct? To test the VNT, where would one connect the vacuum pump, to the round object that the vacuum hose connected to? Would I be able to see the VNT rod move when vacuum is applied (is the rod below the round object)? Also, what would be the VAG-COM test for the N75 and VNT?

I did remove the valve cover, and checked the cam. I can feel the sharp edges of the lobes. Some are sharp enough to cut a finger. The sharp edges do not cover the entire edge of the lobe, there are some parts of the same cam lobe were the edge is not sharp. Most of the cam lobes have copper streaks on them. I noticed that the rod for the injector rocker arms has the number 1 and 2 written by hand (see pictures). I cannot imagine that the cam had been removed (I guess it is possible)

I do have the feeling that the cam does need to be replaced. But before replacing, I wanted to ensure there were no other issues to address. Certainly with the cam replacement, I will be performing the TB change.

I addition to the sharp edges on the cam, when the motor is running, I hear more noise than the typical diesel clatter. I hear an additional jack hammer type noise. As a comparison, my neighbor’s TDI is quiet, except for light sound of the diesel clatter.

If I do need to replace the cam, where can I source out the Colt Cam (BEW cam into the BRM motor)? Does the Colt Cam come as a kit, or do you have to purchase the other parts separately (lifters, bearings, bolts, etc).

Thoughts on the state of the cam? I am sure that it is obvious, but having never looked inside of a TDI valve cover before, I want to confirm what needs replacing before spending the money.

Here are links to pictures of the cam.

http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0008.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0009.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0010.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0011.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0012.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0013.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0014.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0015.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0016.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0017.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0018.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0019.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0020.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0021.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0026.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0027.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0028.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0029.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~ta.cohen/pwpimages/IMG_0030.jpg

 

[Mach1]

You are scuffed up pretty good, one shot I could see where it looked like the camber was gone, I would need to see more camber shots from the side. Sharp edges are a side of surface wear, if you dont need one now, you are on your way to one..

Usually the EGRs stick open, which you would need Vagcom for, the turbo actuator could be sticking as well.

Hope this helps some.

 

[tactdi]

I tried to take better pictures, but they did not come out very good.

I did get the VCDS cable today, and looked at some values and ran the output tests.

I let VCDS run through the different tests with these results.

EGR test, let the test run through the entire cycle, and the car stalled. I assumed the EGR valve went from fully closed to fully open, and when fully open the car stalled. Is this a correct test result?

Reran the output tests, and stopping the EGR test when car started to run bad, the car then went back to idle, and the tests continued.

For the N75 test, the value was 969.0 mbar and duty cycle went from
8.4% to 101.6%, and I watched the rod on the VNT move up and down.

When finished with the tests, and I shut the car off, I did hear the ASV valve cycle.