Ins. Co. Totaled my DRIVEABLE 01 TDI What now?

[FL2AK-tdi]

Hey you guys, I was in an accident last Sunday during the 1st snow of the season in which a Dodge Avenger struck the front right corner of my Jetta, spinning me around 90 degrees. No injuries to either party.

I was able to drive from the scene (the Dodge had to be towed) and to the body shop. During the trip to the body shop I got a CEL and the trans started slipping several hundred RPM with the turbo spinning up (I could actually hear it, which is rare) as the engine RPMs surged upward. I drove it about 30 mph for about 5 miles like this.

Visible damage amounts to the front right fender being pushed in to the point that, when going over a bump, the top of my tire rubs on the plastic fender liner, front right side marker light gone, crease in hood (hood had to be pried open because the lock and release were inoperable), front grille and VW logo cracked and fell out, 2" crack in front right corner of front bumper cover, right rear ail light lens broken. (No idea how that happened.)

Progressive Insurance informed me today that the car is a total loss. They haven't worked up a final compensation offer, but the agent said it will "probably be somewhere 6500 and 7000 dollars." (I believe that the offer will actually be much lower.)

This has actually been very traumatic for me. Those of you who know me know I have no love loss with this car, but I could never afford to get out of it. If the estimated 6500 comes through, it would be the best offer I would ever get for it. On the other hand, even with 6500 dollars, I can't get into another vehicle (that I would consent to own) without payments. My poor credit, due to and combined with my last 5 years of unemployment (I JUST started working again in Sept.) would prevent me from obtaining a car loan, even if I wanted to make payments, which I don't. So I expec to be walking for a while, although, I think I could buy an older (80's) model GM truck, if they hold to their original estimate. (Which I've been wanting for a while anyway.)

My question for you guys is, should I consider purchasing the car back from the insurance company, and, if so, what is the maximum I should consider paying for it?

At this point, I am considering repairing the car to the point that it is drivable by paying the body shop to do the required structural work and I'll figure out someway to fix the transmission myself. (If the 01M is dead, which I bet is what the insurance guy is expecting-and why they're totaling it, then this discussion is academic.) From there get a salvage title, which = zero resale value but who cares.

Another option is to buy it and part it out.

In either case, what's the most I should pay for it and still have any hope of being cost effective or making some extra money off the parts?

 

[Lightflyer1]

In your situation I would find me a dependable clunker for $1000 or less and save for 6 months or so and buy what you want cash. Resell the clunker when done. Leave the heap for the insurance company to deal with unless you are a good mechanic, have space for a wreck long term and are willing to deal with reselling all the parts.

 

[chromeBuddha]

Find out what the offer from the insurance company is. It should be the current resale (not retail) value of the car minus the deductible. That being said, it should match with the prices this year/model is selling for in your local area... If it isn't, you can argue that point and possibly get an adjustment. Definitely find out how much they want for the car.

If the transmission wasn't slipping before the accident it is possible a line that carries ATF broke and you are now low on fluid??? Just a guess.

 

[manual_tranny]

Sorry, no advice, only lots and lots of sympathy.

 

[DonL]

Insurance loss

People are often surprised by what insurance pays on a loss. I assume the other driver's insurance is paying, since it sounds like he was at fault. Generally, you can expect full retail price, plus sales tax, plus license fees. The idea is you should be able to go out and get a replacement 2001 TDI, or a Camry, Accord, Taurus or whatever. It sounds like you would prefer one of the whatevers. Take your $ 6,500 and get a nice Camry.

 

[cvalentine]

That sucks, sorry to hear you were one of ~150 accidents. With the transmission slipping, I wouldn't buy it back, unless your are able to get it for less than $1000. In which case you can tape it up and drive it around until you can scrape together enough to get another car, and sell the Jetta for parts.

I'd argue for $7000 to $8000, which is what about what they go for up here on Craigslist.

 

[FL2AK-tdi]

Thanks, Valentine. Yeah, I was number 48 (or that's my joke about it at least). It happened at O Malley and New Seward.

I think we'll be finalizing all of this tomorrow.

I'm inclined to part it out because it has 5 new tires (<10000 miles on them) a 9 mo old battery, plus a bunch of other stuff, but I don't think I want to pay a grand for it even.

I've spent the evening shopping Craigslist, Auto trader and Auto Trader Classic. Not much available for 6 grand.

The insurance girl said they're required to pay out according to NADA. Rough trade is 3225, avg trade 4100. I've always felt the car was somewhere in between. Clean retail is 7050.

DonL is correct, I won't be buying another VW, be we've always known that.

 

[cvalentine]

The insurance girl said they're required to pay out according to NADA. Rough trade is 3225, avg trade 4100. I've always felt the car was somewhere in between. Clean retail is 7050.

That's a lie to get you to accept a low-ball settlement, so don't fall for it. They should pay out replacement cost, since that's what you've been deprived.

Edit: If you do get a wild hair and like NADA, you should be paid retail value, and not trade value.

 

[DonL]

Don't let them pay you trade for it. Insurance has to pay to make you whole again. That means retail, plus tax and license. If it is your insurance then less your deductible. Keep looking, you can find the car you want at around $ 6,000. Of course, you need a car, so that puts you at a disadvantage.

If in doubt, consult an attorney, one who deals in accident claims. Some will give you a quick consult for free, paying $ 100 could be a real bargain.

 

[dan kerkstra]

cvalentine is right, retail value and not trade value, don't sign anything til ur getting what is fair to you, if you own this volks and you keep it and pay insurance co. salvage price to keep it the title should stay as is. I have bought a few of these damage veh. from owners and they would sign the title over to me, but its been 10 years since i bought one this way, usual rule 5 years old or newer will get salvage title, in michigan anyway. FYI good no one was hurt

 

[kjclow]

I agree, don't take trade in value. My daughter totaled her 97 corolla last week and ended up settling out at about $4600. Paid $4500 for it six years ago. Nationwide paid retail based on what similar corollas with only 120K miles on it were going for in this area. Could argue much about actually making money on a car. Although, I know the insurance company will get its money back.

 

[Mike_04GolfTDI]

Show this to the insurance company: http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/2674225202.html

Tell them you'll take that one and it costs $7700. How can they argue? It's practically the same car you had, right?

 

[bear's TDI]

Strongly suggest you review your state's administrative rules for auto insurance. In Ohio, the insurers are required to provide compensation equal to the cost of a comparable car - in your case, a TDI, based on current sales records - and within a reasonable distance from your home. Do not accept the crap most insurance adjustors will try to tell you - their job is to get out from under the claim at the lowest possible cost for their company. You need to be prepared to argue competently with the adjustor. Even if they try to cite "state law", do your homework and be certain what the "state law" or administrative rule is. In Ohio, we have the Ohio Revised Code - which is state law, and the Ohio Administrative Code - which tells the insurance company what rules they need to follow to comply with "state law". Been there, done that too many times in the past 50+ years of driving. Thus far, have had insurers try to total my TDIs 3 times - and every time when I've gone chapter and verse with them, I've always either had my car repaired or have gotten sufficient funds to purchase a comparable replacement. Good Luck!

 

[sdeck]

Are you sure it is the transmission? given where you were hit, I would look hard at the turbo pipes and intercooler. Low boost due to cracks could maybe give you those issues. If it is the trans, the slipping could be due to torque converter or valve body. much cheaper than new 01M. Get the CEL codes before doing anything.

 

[FL2AK-tdi]

6750 is the offer, which is 300 less than full clean retail trade in-attributed to the broken driver's door arm & window control, broken arm rest cover, and minute hole in the seat cover-all pre existing.

I can take 1300 less and keep the car, try to fix it, and buy a "Reconstructed Title, or part t out. I don't se either happening.

I haven't seen it yet, but I"m heading over to the body shop this morning. (I'm off work today because it's my birthday. "Happy Birthday b^&$%, give us your car!")

The adjuster just told me that both headlamps and both fenders are on the list, which is hard to believe as none of that was on the list. Also on the list is the intercooler (explains the slipping trans) and the right frame rail is bent.

 

[FL2AK-tdi]

Show this to the insurance company: http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/2674225202.html

Tell them you'll take that one and it costs $7700. How can they argue? It's practically the same car you had, right?

Checking CL is a good idea, Mike, but I live in Alaska LOL, I forgot to change up my profile this past summer.

There's an 04 like mine here for 9500, but that's an 04. There have always been very few TDI's up here. I did see a gasser wagon for just under what they are offering. Trouble is, I don't want another VW.

I want an older truck, at which the girlfriend is freaking out because she doesn't want us to be fixing a vehicle all of the time. This AFTER owning a VW? What does she think I do in the garage once a month?

At any rate, not much to pick from up here as example specimens.

 

[RT1]

When my wife totaled her camry she got the blue book re-sale value $4,500. I bought it back from Allstate for $75. I scavenged the virtually new tires (value $475), put them on my mazda and sold the car as a junker (which it was not) to a local yard for $320. It was still drivable. The only reason Allstate totalled it, was the air bags blew. The body damage was minor and confined to the front end, but the cost of the replacement air bags was over two grand alone.

Don't let them short you.

 

[cvalentine]

I want an older truck, at which the girlfriend is freaking out because she doesn't want us to be fixing a vehicle all of the time.

Sounds like a Subaru is out as well (I kid, I kid)

$1300 to buy back a bent-frame dying-auto TDI is not worth it IMHO, as much as I'd like to buy a used engine when you part it out

Some insurance companies use local dealer vehicle listings to get the settlement amount. If they've got those, you should ask to see them, since it sounds like it's on the low end (maybe they are using gas-engined listings?). It doesn't sound too unreasonable, but TDIs go for a premium over NADA up here.

 

[Lex4TDI4Life]

If your GF is horrified by the prospect of you getting a car on which you will need to do continuous work, you may want to ditch the half-wrecked nightmare you have been burdened with for the past few years.

Take the money, find a used Hyundai still under 100k mi warranty and motor on.

 

[aja8888]

Take the money and run.

 

[cvalentine]

If your GF is horrified by the prospect of you getting a car on which you will need to do continuous work, you may want to ditch the half-wrecked nightmare you have been burdened with for the past few years.

Ouch...wait...are you talking about the car?

 

[coalminer16]

^^^^That is funny.
Take the money and find a clunker, save and find a good car. You had an auto tranny and it is sounding like junk, and there is too much other damage to make it worth buying it back and being reliable. You can buy a fine car/truck for $6500 payment or what ever you end up getting.

 

[Lex4TDI4Life]

Ouch...wait...are you talking about the car?

HA! You get joke of the day! Or I do...or something...

 

[kcfoxie]

He's in ALASKA. $6500 may NOT get him a good car, folks. Everything is IMPORTED to ALASKA just like HAWAII... I know this because I have family there.

All of us take for granted the fact that we live in packed urban settings (even the small hamlets of the plane states are packed compared to Alaska), and cars are a dime a dozen. NOT SO IN ALASKA!!

Given your live on an iceburg, you may want to point out that "I want my car again, the closest one to purchase is this much and importing is this much, or you can buy me this used 2004 for this much.." and try to find the "exact match" with importation fees cost what the 04 does... at any rate it'll only serve you better in the end.

You're in a bit of a different situation given your geographical location. Use it to your advantage. Till you sign off they can't take the car, and eventually they'll tire of paying the storage fees and/or rental (if you didn't get a rental, get one and hide it!)

 

[FL2AK-tdi]

LOL, you guys are great. Funny. =)

I'm thinking I'm going to just take the money. I'm oing to call a trusted friend down i the Lower 48, who helped me with a lot (A LOT) of the maintenance on the car over the years and ask his advice, but I already know he's going to say take the check. (He's been saying "sell the b*&(%" for years now.)

Anyway, I'm off to see the car. Back in a few hours.

PS: Aja, now I've got Steve Miller Band stuck in my head. Thanks.

 

[sdeck]

So $1300 for a presumably good engine with an 11mm pump, new tires and battery, other odds and ends. Is there no one in AK looking for parts?

BTW, I hope its "Jungle Love"

Happy B-Day

 

[FL2AK-tdi]

I saw the car today, and I'm pissed that they totaled it.

I talked to the mechanic and service manager, and they both said that the adjuster saw the broken intercooler, freaked, and totaled it. They said she was concerned that the turbo might MIGHT have sucked up some of the debris from the intercooler (on the 5 mile trip from the scene to the body shop) and need to be replaced. (My response was "hell, that's already the second turbo on that car, what's another one?)

The tie rods are straight, the frame isn't bent, there is nothing wrong with the car. Progressive listed the left fender, hood, and both head lamps as in need of replacement. Unbelievable. The hood and right fender pinch in the back near the hinge, but the hood opens. The service writer said they could have repaired rather than replaced that. Progressive wrote off the front bumper cover due to the two inch crack from the accident.

I asked the body shop to estimate a repair cost using my old bumper cover, old head lamps and a used or aftermarket left fender and they all but refused. They tod me that, in any event, they could not repair my car for less than the price that they quoted Progressive, whcih they stopped inspecting at $7000. Apparently, the cost of shipping the parts to AK was the killer.

I took this up with the manager of the Anchorage claims office, explaining that she was essentially putting me on foot, but she wouldn't budge. I thought about arguing for more money, but I also realized that, in the end game the payoff amount was mostly irrelevant.

I asked what would happen to the car from here and she said it will go to auction. When I asked how she came up with the 1300 dollar price to keep my car, she said that was an estimated auction price based on the sale of the last 30 cars of that type. (I'll be there aren't 30 TDI's in all of Alaska, let alone 30 totaled TDI's.)

So I took their cash (which, I'll be honest with you guys, there is no way on this planet that car was worth 6 grand; that's the best offer I was ever going to get on it. I know yo guys all think these cars are gold but I just don't see it.) and I'm going to bid on my car at auction and hope to buy it for a few hundreds bucks of Progressive's money, replace the intercooler and keep going. With any luck, the body shop might still have my bumper cover and head lamps.

BTW, we cancelled the insurance on the Jetta, back dated to the date of the accident, which got us another $600 back. Tomorrow, we're going to change insurers for the girlfriend's car (probably to Geico where I was until last month) and then drop Progressive altogether. So all in all, they got my car plus about $200 in premiums and paid out 6 grand.

F*&$% Progressive.

 

[aja8888]

Fl2ak:

Texas is truck country. Fly down here and get a nice used truck for $5K and drive it back to AK. I picked up a 2002 Dodge Ram SLT 4.9L with 211K on it for a song (price too low to mention):

 

[coalminer16]

If she was worried about the turbo sucking up something form a broken intercooler then that proves they don't know anything. Hard to suck went under pressure and the turbo is feeding that piping not getting its air from it. Good luck with your future choice of car.

 

[kjclow]

As mentioned, I took the money and ran. I had the car sold for $3500 and insurance gave me $4500, but the again I'm not in Alaska.