How to: Replacing the Adblue Heater & Temp Sensor Module
- Thread starter docmanny
- Start date
c-wagen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2012
- Location
- Houston TX
- TDI
- North American Passat 2012 TDI SEL (bought back march 2018)
It will go off in the first 200 miles (or less, I don't recall now)
Update: I checked page 3 on this thread, there is a note I left saying that the light went off after 28 miles (in my car, at least). Good luck.
Update: I checked page 3 on this thread, there is a note I left saying that the light went off after 28 miles (in my car, at least). Good luck.
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thanks
To whomever wrote this, this tutorial, these instructions, the photos, we're just amazing. Was able to do the whole job myself. Thank you thank you for taking the time to document the procedure. very happy save me lots of money. Again thank you.
I can also confirm with 100% certainty, the part from ECS on this link works on a Passat Turbo Diesel TDI 2012 SE. The part was brand-new, about $250 delivered.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2845755/
I can also confirm with 100% certainty, the part from ECS on this link works on a Passat Turbo Diesel TDI 2012 SE. The part was brand-new, about $250 delivered.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2845755/
roadkingdoc
New member
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
My add blue tank on my 2012 Touareg is under the spare tire.i need to replace the heater. Anyone done one of these. I think the muffler has to be removed to access the bolts that hold the cover on. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
giovane
Active member
I did the resistor fix and the CEL was gone after 25 miles. $10 in materials and 2 hours of work.
Awesome thread.
Awesome thread.
Jimbo70
Veteran Member
Finally got around to replacing Adblue heater module. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, and even taking my time it was a 90 minute job. My tank was about half full (I recently added a couple gallons of Peak urea (which seems to have triggered this mess for some reason), and using a tranny jack helped get the tank in and out. I can't believe the dealer gets $1,100 or more for this job.
One thing I noticed while removing the old module was that the o-ring was not properly installed around the inside portion of the module. Not the best picture, but you can see the lip stuck over that inner part. I don't think that was caused by prying the top off, and I don't recall having the tank serviced before.
After clearing the CEL with my VAG-COM, I took the car for an extended test drive and so far, so good. We have a big road trip starting next Friday, so if it's going to come on it'll happen then.
One thing I noticed while removing the old module was that the o-ring was not properly installed around the inside portion of the module. Not the best picture, but you can see the lip stuck over that inner part. I don't think that was caused by prying the top off, and I don't recall having the tank serviced before.
After clearing the CEL with my VAG-COM, I took the car for an extended test drive and so far, so good. We have a big road trip starting next Friday, so if it's going to come on it'll happen then.
Has anyone tried the resistor mod in a cold climate? I assume if it tricks the system into thinking the fluid is warm it will activate the pump. However if the fluid is actually frozen the pump will force and probably fail, any thoughts?
Im getting the P148C code. Output Module for Heating of Reductant Malfunction.
Im getting the P148C code. Output Module for Heating of Reductant Malfunction.
Jimbo70
Veteran Member
Add about 100 miles to the trip odometer for the couple days my wife drove to and from work before the reset, and I think I'm ready to declare that my Adblue heater replacement a success. Add about 5 miles to the trip odometer and that is how long it has been since I filled up, then look at the trip odometer. This is why we bought this car in the first place.
Rico567
Top Post Dawg
Very nice.....but this whole sorry business with the numerous heater failures (as demonstrated in this thread) and VW's failure to cover them under the emissions warranty is one of the things that has moved me to turn in our car for the buyback $.
Jimbo70
Veteran Member
They just did...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=468717
Three weeks or so after I replaced mine in my driveway. I'm going to request reimbursement for the part, but I doubt they'll honor it.
Rico567
Top Post Dawg
Yeah- they're now covering enough stuff on our Passat for 10/120 (turbo, heater core, and now DEF heater) that if they threw in the HPFP, I might consider keeping the car. But as it is.....it's going to be buyback. I cant refuse turning in a 5 1/2 year old car with 70-80K on it for a few thousand less than we paid......
Rico567
Top Post Dawg
Easy to determine; the VW web site will let you enter the mileage, and then calculates what the buyback $ will be. It evidently just projects the miles entered that have been driven so far forward to the buyback date selected, and then calculates an add / deduct for those miles. Of course, if the mileage driven deviates a lot in that time, then it could change, but the mileage charge isn't that high, only about 5 cents a mile.
Philsandsox2009
New member
Adblue level sensor
In addition to popping a 205B/205C, which at this point I don't care about any longer as I am taking my TDI back in for the buyback, my car also won't read the Adblue level. I have refilled it, attempted to clear the system and reset with the Vagcom but the level continues to read 6.3%. Any idea if any of the fixes mentioed so far will also fix the level sensing ability?
In addition to popping a 205B/205C, which at this point I don't care about any longer as I am taking my TDI back in for the buyback, my car also won't read the Adblue level. I have refilled it, attempted to clear the system and reset with the Vagcom but the level continues to read 6.3%. Any idea if any of the fixes mentioed so far will also fix the level sensing ability?
Heater reduction tank adblue
Thanks
My problem is same 202B shorted to ground ,actualy heater is partial damaged ,after test by multimeter rezistance it is just 10 ohms ,according to manual rezistance should be 3 ohms does mean around 75watts , my car is VW variant ,did I found on supplier that spare part ,I do not know if is same code like sedan ,tank adblue of variant is located central insted of spare wheel ,in few days I'll get the parts ,after replace I'll give you my rezults .I was getting the 202B fault with my Check Engine Light starting at 74k miles. I have a 2012 TDI SEL. Dealer quote was about $1200 to repair, so I figured I'd do it myself.
The part number is 561-198-970. You can get it online for the mid $400 range. I wasn't absolutely confident about my ability to do the job, so I paid a few bucks more for a return policy without a restocking fee. Here's what you get.
You will also need a torx driver and a socket wrench. You also need a hex bit. A siphon is helpful.
First step is to remove the bumper.
In each wheel well, there are 5 screws to remove. I used a torx bit with a 1/4 inch socket wrench to get in the narrow spots. It would be easier if you remove the wheels, but I didn't feel like jacking up the car. This picture was taken after removing the screws and prying the bumper away.
The top-most screw is at a tight angle
Then remove the tail-lights. Unsnap the electrical connector and unscrew the large white plastic screw. The whole assembly comes out easily.
Remove the two torx screws.
Next remove the torx screws from under the back of the bumper.
Then pry the cover off starting from each wheel well. It takes a little elbow grease, but all that's left holding the cover on are plastic clips.
Here's the Adblue tank with the cover off
There are 3 bolts holding the tank on. Two are located at the rear of the tank, and one in the front. Remove those and the tank comes right down.
Remove the foam piece and start disconnecting wires. You'll have to cut some cable ties to disconnect the mess. Don't worry, you can't reconnect the wires incorrectly later. Each clip is shaped differently. The kit comes with new wire clips also.
Now would be a good time to siphon out some of the Adblue fluid. You can use a fish tank vaccum for that (I wouldn't use it in a fish tank again though)
Now remove the three bolts holding the control module on.
Pull upwards. There is an O ring holding the module onto the tank, so you'll get some resistance.
Note the position of the arrow and the two hash marks on the tank. This will be important when putting everything back together.
Unscrew the large ring holding the heater down. Its very tight. I used a hammer and pry bar to loosen the ring. You get a new ring in the kit, so no worries.
Now pry off the top of the heater element. I used a flat head screwdriver. Remove the large O ring.
You have to rotate this piece a few degrees before it comes out.
Now that you have it off, its just the reverse to put it back together again. Beware of the arrow when you reseat the top of the heater. I made the expensive mistake of putting it the wrong place and broke the nipple off the control module ($500 retail, you can find it for $375). It also helps to have an empty Adblue tank, since it makes it lighter to reinstall on the frame.
Whole project should take less than an hour if you know what you're doing.
Thanks
Today ,solved replacing heater reduction thank adblue ,I would share some pictures ,but I'm not so familiar with this forum ,if someone could give some details will be useful for anyother people wich have some problem like me ,I think is engineering design problem of VW group ,in cold area this adblue system not rezist too long time .
Thanks
Thanks
roni024
Veteran Member
crisneg,
Did you solve your problem without the replacing the pump or module? My car has a 202A code but I want to see if I can clean the connections and pump itself to dissolve urea salt from them. You mentioned the resistance of the heating element should be 3 ohms. Where did you find that information?
Thanks.
Did you solve your problem without the replacing the pump or module? My car has a 202A code but I want to see if I can clean the connections and pump itself to dissolve urea salt from them. You mentioned the resistance of the heating element should be 3 ohms. Where did you find that information?
Thanks.
Ad Blue sensor factory replaced for free
I realize this thread hasn't seen any action in a couple years, but I just got my 2013 Passat AdBlue heater and sensor replaced under factory recall. FOR FREE. Maybe you guys already know that. I'm a noob and just wanted to make sure you're aware of the recall tho!
Cheers!
I realize this thread hasn't seen any action in a couple years, but I just got my 2013 Passat AdBlue heater and sensor replaced under factory recall. FOR FREE. Maybe you guys already know that. I'm a noob and just wanted to make sure you're aware of the recall tho!
Cheers!
Booth44
Active member
Just got a notice in the mail that VW Canada has issued a recall for 2012-14 TDI Passats to replace the AdBlue Heater for free.
VeeDubFamily
Well-known member
Does it apply if you’ve deleted this? [emoji23][emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bustNfuel
Veteran Member
Nice to find this detailed how-to. Thanks to the OP (original Poster).
I had 23Z3 done the other day under warranty. Today I noticed that when closing my trunk, it took several tries, almost slamming it, to get it to latch.
Well then I thought about it, and realized that they must have removed the rear bumper cover to access the hardware. Sure enough, my trunk is hitting the top middle of the bumper cover, which was re-installed a few MM too high.
I plan on fixing this myself as it will take more time from my schedule than it's worth to drop it off across the county to get it re-aligned at the dealership Service department.
I had 23Z3 done the other day under warranty. Today I noticed that when closing my trunk, it took several tries, almost slamming it, to get it to latch.
Well then I thought about it, and realized that they must have removed the rear bumper cover to access the hardware. Sure enough, my trunk is hitting the top middle of the bumper cover, which was re-installed a few MM too high.
I plan on fixing this myself as it will take more time from my schedule than it's worth to drop it off across the county to get it re-aligned at the dealership Service department.
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jafische
Veteran Member
Dang sticky lost it's pictures!I was getting the 202B fault with my Check Engine Light starting at 74k miles. I have a 2012 TDI SEL. Dealer quote was about $1200 to repair, so I figured I'd do it myself.
The part number is 561-198-970. You can get it online for the mid $400 range. I wasn't absolutely confident about my ability to do the job, so I paid a few bucks more for a return policy without a restocking fee. Here's what you get.
You will also need a torx driver and a socket wrench. You also need a hex bit. A siphon is helpful.
First step is to remove the bumper.
In each wheel well, there are 5 screws to remove. I used a torx bit with a 1/4 inch socket wrench to get in the narrow spots. It would be easier if you remove the wheels, but I didn't feel like jacking up the car. This picture was taken after removing the screws and prying the bumper away.
The top-most screw is at a tight angle
Then remove the tail-lights. Unsnap the electrical connector and unscrew the large white plastic screw. The whole assembly comes out easily.
Remove the two torx screws.
Next remove the torx screws from under the back of the bumper.
Then pry the cover off starting from each wheel well. It takes a little elbow grease, but all that's left holding the cover on are plastic clips.
Here's the Adblue tank with the cover off
There are 3 bolts holding the tank on. Two are located at the rear of the tank, and one in the front. Remove those and the tank comes right down.
Remove the foam piece and start disconnecting wires. You'll have to cut some cable ties to disconnect the mess. Don't worry, you can't reconnect the wires incorrectly later. Each clip is shaped differently. The kit comes with new wire clips also.
Now would be a good time to siphon out some of the Adblue fluid. You can use a fish tank vaccum for that (I wouldn't use it in a fish tank again though)
Now remove the three bolts holding the control module on.
Pull upwards. There is an O ring holding the module onto the tank, so you'll get some resistance.
Note the position of the arrow and the two hash marks on the tank. This will be important when putting everything back together.
Unscrew the large ring holding the heater down. Its very tight. I used a hammer and pry bar to loosen the ring. You get a new ring in the kit, so no worries.
Now pry off the top of the heater element. I used a flat head screwdriver. Remove the large O ring.
You have to rotate this piece a few degrees before it comes out.
Now that you have it off, its just the reverse to put it back together again. Beware of the arrow when you reseat the top of the heater. I made the expensive mistake of putting it the wrong place and broke the nipple off the control module ($500 retail, you can find it for $375). It also helps to have an empty Adblue tank, since it makes it lighter to reinstall on the frame.
Whole project should take less than an hour if you know what you're doing.
I had the red def bottle and wrench warning light last Sunday, of course this left the Passat in the no start condition. Had it towed to the nearest VW dealer which was within a mile from where the no start happened, dealer diagnosed and did the repair under warranty, they installed repair kit PN 561-198-970B. If you are out of warranty, the kits can be had in the $300 or less range.