Help! T-stat replacement gone bad

[jesus_man]

This is by far the worst mechanic job I've attempted.

Here is where I am. I got the new t-stat in after lots of fighting and struggling. Went to install the dipstick tube and it snapped the bottom 3" of it off and I can't find any pieces, so...likely it went into the bottom of the engine??

What now?? I needed to get this job done this weekend. Clearly that is out of the question. I'll be ordering a new dipstick tube and dipstick because anger got the best of me and thru what was left on the floor.

I am off to find a diagram of how the dipstick is to be installed. I thought I had it in the correct location, even removed all the hoses from the t-stat to give myself the best chance.

Thanks for any and all help.

 

[jakej78b]

If you have any suspicion that any pieces of that dipstick dropped into the pan, then pull the pan and make sure to clean all debris out before attempting to start the engine.

 

[jesus_man]

I was afraid that would be the case. I know foreign objects in the oil pan is a bad thing. But it's plastic, should sink to the bottom. But I certainly don't want to cause any damage. How much of a job is dropping the oil pan and what is used to reseal?

 

[rhinorear]

WWJD?

 

[jesus_man]

I am sure He would not cut any corners.

 

[jesus_man]

Ugh! When will the nightmare end? I cleared my weekend schedule to work on my car. Ordered a new dipstick tube assembly from idparts with three day shipping, which would allow it to arrive Friday. I could have ordered it from a dealer in Chicago for $13 cheaper, but they said they don't stock it so it would have to arrive at their shop, then they could ship it. Idparts led me to believe they could have it here on Friday and I found out today that they can't accommodate my schedule because they too had to special order it. Kinda soured on ordering parts from them again.

It just seems that murphy's law has an unfair advantage over this repair!!

 

[oilhammer]

I don't mind this job, really. Time consuming, tedious, but not especially difficult.

This one was getting a new intake manifold, too.

I hope you replaced that plastic crossover pipe! Those love to leak!

 

[oilhammer]

Another one apart:

I have the front end off of some VAG product almost every day

 

[jesus_man]

I started down the path of removing the front end when I couldn't get the t-stat out. But I just worried about getting it all back together without missing any fasteners. So I stopped.

Awesome - I did not replace the crossover pipe. I did replace the o-ring at that connection tho. I also did not take it loose because I couldn't get to it without removing the oil filter housing, for which I did not order a new gasket for.

Do you happen to have a pic of the dipstick tube installed? Perhaps I am not routing it correctly?? Can you install it without removing the EGR?

 

[jimmyfine]

Just got my 2010 back together after an engine swap, I also had mine break off in the pan and I was trying to install it with the EGR in place, I would recommend removing to install the new dipstick as it makes it a lot easier to get in. I know the end of my tube snapped clean though and didn't fragment so I left it for now until I change the oil in a couple thousand miles, I will drop the pan then and remove it then.

 

[jesus_man]

It's leaking coolant! Talk about wind out of my sails....

Here you can see coolant below the thermostat:

And looking in my mirror, I believe it to be coming from just to the drivers side of an angle bracket that support the EGR:

But I really can't confirm that is coolant and I can't find it's source without tearing into the car again. Any ideas?

 

[jesus_man]

After I rented a coolant pressurizing system and a bore scope, I found my problem. It's leaking at most inaccessble thermostat fitting:

So, any recommendations on how to fix this in a less painful way that removing the thermostat? I did not replace the plastic pipe that connects to that fitting, so perhaps I can do that instead of removing the t stat??

 

[oilhammer]

Yep, this is why I just take the whole front end apart, take that pipe off completely, THEN change the thermostat. Doing it once, and being done, even if it takes longer, is better than fighting it multiple times.

 

[jesus_man]

20/20 hindsight! I wasn't aware that crossover pipe should be replaced until the job was done.

So it appears to be item 31 here:

HOSES & LINES.. 2012 Volkswagen

2012 Volkswagen HOSES & LINES. 2. 0 liter. 2010-11. WAGON.

parts.vw.com

part # 03L121065T?

Coolant Tube

Connects thermostat housing to heater core hose

www.ecstuning.com

In order to get this off, I will need to remove the oil filter housing, which requires a new gasket # 045115441 ). I will plan on ordering new gaskets for EGR and throttle body so if they need removed, I have replacements.

Once the air filter box is off, how accessible is that rear-most connection to this hard pipe?

Besides more coolant, anything else I am missing?

 

[oilhammer]

If the oil cooler seals are wet at all, now would be the time to replace them. If not, you can just leave the cooler attached the filter housing and take it all loose in one chunk.

Get some foam tape to insulate the engine harness as it passes close to the oil cooler, too. They chafe right there, and can wear a hole right through the cooler... I've seen it thrice now. You'll see where it is.

 

[jesus_man]

Thanks Oilhammer. Still doesn't look like a pleasant job... I'll make sure I have something to wrap around the wiring harness.

 

[jesus_man]

For the oil cooler are wel talking items 11 & 13?

I can't tell if there is any leaking, but I'd rather have the seals handy in case they are!

 

[MTB_TDI]

Oilhammer, I am going to be doing this on my 2011 Golf. I am going to do this when I do my TB and WP as well. Which seals should I get and do exactly which pipe do you recommend replacing? Is it 31 from the diagram Jesus_man referenced?

 

[oilhammer]

It is the plastic one that goes into the side of the thermostat housing, and goes across the front (side) of the block and around to one of the heater hoses. On the older cars, this was a metal pipe, that fit into a hole directly in the block. So if you are at all familiar with those, this is the "improved" replacement, LOL.

 

[jesus_man]

Oilhammer, I am going to be doing this on my 2011 Golf. I am going to do this when I do my TB and WP as well. Which seals should I get and do exactly which pipe do you recommend replacing? Is it 31 from the diagram Jesus_man referenced?

Yes, Item 31 also the link from ECS tuning.

 

[jesus_man]

Performed the job last weekend. It took me 10-12 hrs to complete. It would have been more if I hadn't had the "pleasure" of replacing the Tstat prior.

Anyway, here is where I saw the wiring harness chaffing. I took a bicycle tube, cut a 6" length off, split it and then doubled it over. I zip tied that to the wiring harness. For anyone who is a DIY - you can likely do something to protect this harness without removing anything, but this appear to be a disaster waiting to happen!

And here is the culprit of my leak:

Must have gotten damaged as I tried to wedge the tstat in place.

Following the myturbodiesel procedure (https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/a6/oil-filter-housing-removal.htm) for removing the oil filter housing was pretty straight forward, with the exception that I had an additional support piece holding this plastic tube in place just under the gold-ish EGR tube. That was either a 10mm or 12mm XZN holding that black plastic bracket in place.

My biggest piece of advice if you are going to replace the thermostat yourself is to take a heaping helping of patience, and plan on removing this cross-over tube which requires removal of the oil filter housing. Had I done that, I would not have had to go back and replace this o-ring. That's a LOT of dang work for a $2 o-ring.

Heck...it's not even remotely pleasant to do all that work for a $50 thermostat.

Once I had it all buttoned up, I did not put on the skid so I could watch for leaks and I was gutted when I saw a oil leak! Once I was able to climb under the car, I traced the oil leak to the intake hose where it meets the bottom plastic hose. That clamp didn't seem to be more than finger tight. As I was cleaning out the intake as best I could, I suppose I disturbed enough junk that it began leaking inside the intake. So I tightened that up and cleaned off all drips and so far, there are no leaks. It's been rainy, so I am waiting to make sure the rain isn't washing away any leaks.

Oh, one last tid-bit of info... I pressure tested my coolant system overnight by pulling the small hose off the drivers side of the radiator that leads to the overflow tank. I capped the rubber part off, and using the schrader valve from that tube above and a length of hose, I connected that to the radiator and pumped in 15psi, which held all night! That was a major relief.

 

[MTB_TDI]

I too replaced my thermostat a couple of weeks ago. The myturbodiesel how to, this thread and another how to video on youtubes helped. I replaced the crossover pipe and removed the front clip thanks to oilhammers suggestions. I did not remove the oil filter housing but used a short triple square with wobbly extensions to remove the dang bolt. I didn’t put my skid plate back on so I could check for leaks. No leaks but still have to charge my AC system. This was a pain but doable if you have patience.
While the front clip was off, I bled the brakes and slave cylinder while everything was super accessible. Made it very easy.
Thanks guys for helping me out on this.