FOB programming question

[TDI4evah]

Hi;

One of my keys went for a swim, and I got a new one for Christmas.

The dealer wants $100 to program the new key. I have the vagcom cable and program - is this something I can do myself?

TIA,

--- David

 

[1854sailor]

Yes, but unless you have the SKC (Security Key Code), you will need VAG-Tacho to read it in the cluster before you can match the new key with VCDS.

 

[TDI4evah]

Thanks for the quick reply!

Where would I find the SKC? I bought the car used, and that sounds a lot like the radio code that somehow never gets passed along

 

[BobnOH]

Find someone with VAG-Tacho

 

[steve6]

Do you need to program just the remote? Or the car to accept the key as well? The key and transponder are pretty durable, you could move them over to the new fob. But to program just the remote buttons you don't need vagcom.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Stated again for clarity, your key has two parts:

1) a passive RFID transponder that the cluster needs to recognize before it will let the car stay running
2) a remote lock control (the part with the battery)

And yup, the RFID transponder (start the car) part of the key should have survived the swim... have you tried starting the car?

If so, then you're only after a new remote part of the fob... and *that* can be programmed with VCDS. In fact, you can program it without VCDS, if you have another key with a working remote.

 

[dweisel]

I've removed the RFiD tube and siliconed it under the plastic trim piece near the ignition switch. Then any correct key will start the car.

 

[BobnOH]

I've removed the RFiD tube and siliconed it under the plastic trim piece near the ignition switch. Then any correct key will start the car.

Do you sill get full function of the remote for the trunk, doors and windows?
I really like the solution described by Vince. Only read of a couple folks done that.

 

[Vince Waldon]

They are two completely independent parts of the key... which is partly why they come apart at the middle.

 

[dweisel]

Yes,FOB is fully functional. The reason this works is the RFID is separate from the FOB functions. With the RFID in a fixed position near the ignition switch the immo ALWAYS recognizes that there is a good key.

 

[BobnOH]

Yes,FOB is fully functional. The reason this works is the RFID is separate from the FOB functions. With the RFID in a fixed position near the ignition switch the immo ALWAYS recognizes that there is a good key.

That's ingenious.
It's possible a 3rd party key would work as well, but so what.....

 

[dweisel]

Yes,any key that will physically turn the ignition switch would start the car. Here was my key FOB learning experience.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/key-to-keys.24596/

 

[TDI4evah]

The key went for a swim with my son when he flipped the canoe, and drowned. It's at the bottom of the lake

In reading that it seemed maybe a bit unclear.

The *key* drowned. The son is doing fine

--- David

 

[steve6]

Well going for a swim and drowning are very different

 

[shakescreek]

I really like the idea of siliconing the rfid chip near the ignition switch. However in looking my key over I don't see any obvious marks or plugged holes that would tell me where to look for this chip and would rather not have to destroy the whole plastic piece trying to find it. Can anyone explain a little more specifically just where it is imbedded in the plastic? Or even better post a good picture of where to find it?

 

[dweisel]

I'll look around to see if I have any old key FOBS I can take pics and clarify more the disassembly. It's a little tricky sometimes to actually remove the RFID chip from the FOB. It's a glass tube and if you break it and don't have a spare good key. Well.......big $ at the dealer.

Once the key is disassembled I use a heat gun/hair dryer to soften up the glue holding the RFID chip into the key. Sometimes the fall right out. Sometimes you have to pry on them to get them loose. Use a wooden or plastic pry tool. Metal tool has greater chance of breaking the glass RFID tube.

Below is a link that will help you understand key functions and the disassembly procedure.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/k...bleshooting-mk4-jetta-golf-new-beetle-passat/

 

[steve6]

I really like the idea of siliconing the rfid chip near the ignition switch. However in looking my key over I don't see any obvious marks or plugged holes that would tell me where to look for this chip and would rather not have to destroy the whole plastic piece trying to find it. Can anyone explain a little more specifically just where it is imbedded in the plastic? Or even better post a good picture of where to find it?

If you have a key with the button fob... Behind the blue vw emblem theres a small screw.. The plastic will come apart much easier if you take this screw out youll see the rfid in there after that,see previous post for more details

 

[shakescreek]

Thanks guys, found it now. Soon as we get a warm day here I'm going to try siliconing it near the ignition switch.

 

[dweisel]

Thanks guys, found it now. Soon as we get a warm day here I'm going to try siliconing it near the ignition switch.

Sort of hold it with your fingers where you think it will work. Then turn the key to the ON position. If it's not in the right spot you'll immediately get the immo symbol on your cluster. Takes a bit to find just the right spot.

 

[1854sailor]

May I suggest a different approach here? Instead of just gluing the RFID capsule to the steering column, why not take your new key apart and replace its unprogrammed chip with the one that works? That way, you're not defeating the immobilizer. Just my 2¢.

 

[dweisel]

May I suggest a different approach here? Instead of just gluing the RFID capsule to the steering column, why not take your new key apart and replace its unprogrammed chip with the one that works? That way, you're not defeating the immobilizer. Just my 2¢.

I had purchased a Beetle that only had 1 good key. I had a parts car with 3 keys. I swapped out the parts car ignition switch,door and hatch into the 1 key Beetle. By placing the RFID chip next to the ignition. I now have 3 funtioning keys. Call the dealer and ask what they charge for 2 more keys that are programmed?

A little of my time and a dab of silicon was WAY cheaper than going to the dealer. Plus I learned something new.

 

[shakescreek]

My car came with only one key as well. I would like to get a couple more and have them all work, so gluing the chip near the ign switch seems like the best option. Not the least bit concerned about having a working immobilizer system. I have no road access to my home so both my jetta and f350 sit at the end of a remote road from which we snowmobile or boat home depending on the season. I never bother to lock my vehicles and usually leave a key in the ashtray. In over 20 years here I have never had anything stolen, hence my lack of concern for a working immobilizer. Also I don't have the security # for the key and the nearest dealer is over 1100 kilometers away so not to easy to get any new keys programmed to the cluster. I believe one of the venders here rents the tool to retrieve the key #, but he has a 2 week time limit on the rental. Where I live it would take 3-4 weeks each way for the tool to be mailed so that is not an option either. We snowmobile up every couple of weeks and take one of the vehicles to town for the mail, so next time I'm up there I will try gluing the chip and if it works well I'll order a couple more keys online.

 

[dweisel]

Just be EXTREMELY careful removing the chip. If you break it you'll have NO working key at all. As I said some come out easy,others not so easy. Heat gun or hair dryer does seem to help soften whatever holds the chip in the FOB.

Good luck,
dweisel

 

[1854sailor]

...I now have 3 funtioning keys...

And a car that someone with a slide hammer and a screw driver can steal in a New York minute...

 

[dweisel]

Ah, if they take it. They must need it worst than I do.