FAQ: 2009 - 2010 TDI-specific issues

[40X40]

<SNIP> It was a result of the center of the rim having such a close tolerance.<SNIP>

I think it still happens. The center of the rim is where the load is transferred from hub to wheel, not through the wheel bolts.... (read that again...)

A tiny amount of any kind of grease (rub a greasy finger around it.) at the area where the hub and wheel touch will cure all those ills.


Bill

 

[DoctorDawg]

Eating crow

Changed answer to Q #24 today, after my harrowing experience losing prime after a filter change.

 

[dr61]

I think it still happens. The center of the rim is where the load is transferred from hub to wheel, not through the wheel bolts.... (read that again...)

A tiny amount of any kind of grease (rub a greasy finger around it.) at the area where the hub and wheel touch will cure all those ills.


Bill

These are called hub-centric wheels; this is a stronger design, not a flaw. Every European car I have owned since the 1970's uses this method. Like Bill says, there should be a small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the hub-wheel interface to prevent corrosion. I have never had a problem when this is done.

 

[DoctorDawg]

Where can I find a list of what is done when performing the free services at 10000, 20000 and any subsequent services by the dealer?

I forget whether it is the warranty brochure or the owner's manual which lists the required PM procedures by mileage...its one or the other. What that table says is exactly what your dealer will (or, at least, should) do. No more, no less.

 

[Jack Frost]

These are called hub-centric wheels; this is a stronger design, not a flaw. Every European car I have owned since the 1970's uses this method. Like Bill says, there should be a small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the hub-wheel interface to prevent corrosion. I have never had a problem when this is done.

I find these hub-centric wheels make it easy to install/deinstall winter tires. The hub aligns the rim as it slides on so that the new tire doesn't have to be lifted continually. Once the rim is on, all one has to do is rotate it until the bolts line up with the holes on the rim.

My wife's other car is not like that. One has to continually keep the tire lifted while you rotate the tire trying to make the bolts and holes line up. When one has two cars (8 tires) to do this with twice a year, these little features make a big difference.

 

[740GLE]

I find these hub-centric wheels make it easy to install/deinstall winter tires. The hub aligns the rim as it slides on so that the new tire doesn't have to be lifted continually. Once the rim is on, all one has to do is rotate it until the bolts line up with the holes on the rim.

My wife's other car is not like that. One has to continually keep the tire lifted while you rotate the tire trying to make the bolts and holes line up. When one has two cars (8 tires) to do this with twice a year, these little features make a big difference.

My volvos (pre ford) never had lug bolts, I agree that it is pretty easy to change from summer to snows, it was easier than I thought.

 

[Greendiesel69]

Dr D, a great list & I wish I would have read before I bought a DSG. Beyond the DSG issues you mentioned which are all manageable, my car displays another quirk that I find dangerous if not informed, & not common to any other make car on the market. To your knowledge, Is the issue described below common to all DSG's or just to my car ?
If you have your foot on the gas while normally driving (DSG in D or S) & just touch the brake pedal, The engine instantly shuts down to idle. As long as the brake pedal is ever so slightly depressed (eg foot resting on the pedal but brakes not applied) , the engine will not come off idle no matter how much throttle is given. Here is the scary part to me, When you take your foot totally off the brake there is a 2 second hesitation before the engine comes back to life and will take the throttle again.

I was taught "2 footed automatic trans driving" in high school by a certified teacher and was fine until I got the DSG. Since getting the DSG I have adjusted to "1 footed driving". In normal driving however I do encounter times when the 2 second delay in re acceleration to be aggravating.
I do not find the hesitation on starting issue to be a problem with my car and you can have you foot on the gas & brake at the same time for about 3 seconds before the engine cuts to idle.

2009 Jetta TDI wagon DSG

 

[DoctorDawg]

The feature you describe is the feature Toyotas lack (much to Mr. Toyoda's chagrin); the ECU is programmed to drop the engine to idle if you touch the brake. Makes perfect sense for one-footed drivers, and awfully handy in the event of 'unintended acceleration', it is however a PITA for two-footed auto drivers such as yourself. I would suggest retiring your left foot.

 

[Jack Frost]

I was taught two-footed driving from my father. When I took my driving test, the examiner failed me for that. Personally I don't have an opinion either way but some people do. I am not sure why but one reason perhaps is the danger of pressing both at the same time without realizing it.

 

[JSWTDI09]

I am not sure why but one reason perhaps is the danger of pressing both at the same time without realizing it.

The problem with two foot driving is that most people end up putting light pressure on the brake pedal all (or most) of the time. This causes two problems: 1) Extra brake wear and heat which shortens the life of the pads/drums. and 2) Brake lights that stay on all the time and make the guy behind you think you are an idiot. This is also a safety issue, since no one can tell if you are really braking or not. Since the brake lights are on all (or most) of the time - the guy behind you has no warning when you are really stopping. However, this is a good way to get your back bumper re-painted (after somebody smacks into it).

Have Fun!

Don

 

[Clawdio]

Nobody who was taught "first" on a manual would use two-foot driving with an automatic. That left foot is always reserved for operating the clutch, so moving from accellerator to brake with the right foot is completely normal for those drivers after switching to automatic (or DSG). My father learned on manuals, so even though I was taught on an automatic, the two-foot approach never came up. That actually made it easier for me to transition to the first car I bought for myself, coincidentally a 1960s VW beetle.

 

[ghagar]

2009 TDI wheel bearing

2009 TDI Jetta, 30,000 kms front right wheel bearing got tired.

I hate the DSG, considering trading for standard.

Yep, thats right

 

[kwalsh24]

So taking a brief look over this posting, I am considering on updating my current car (00 Golf TDI 375k+km) to a 09+ Jetta Wagon or Sedan, 5spd as I do not wish to have automatic issues.... Would anyone have any objections? What should I look out for? Are the new 2.0l engines just as reliable as the old ALH

 

[JSWTDI09]

So taking a brief look over this posting, I am considering on updating my current car (00 Golf TDI 375k+km) to a 09+ Jetta Wagon or Sedan, 5spd as I do not wish to have automatic issues.... Would anyone have any objections? What should I look out for? Are the new 2.0l engines just as reliable as the old ALH

1) there are no 5 speeds. It's either a six speed manual or a six speed DSG. Those are your only choices in an '09+ TDI. (IMHO, six speed manual is better than a 5 speed manual)

2) As for long term reliability, the jury is still out on this one. Not many of the have over 100k miles yet, so it is really hard to give a definitive answer. Only time will tell.

Have Fun!

Don

 

[kwalsh24]

hahaha yes sorry, force of habit writing 5spd, meant to be 6spd, thats another thing I would be looking forward to is the extra gear.

Next question, hows the performance difference over the old 1.9 engines?

part 2 haha, whats the maintenance cost like on the newer vehicles when it comes to oil changes? I like how cheap my current car is to maintain, do the new-er TDI's require more expensive oils and filters? Along with parts that need to be swapped out on every oil change? Minus the filter of course haha...

 

[JSWTDI09]

Next question, hows the performance difference over the old 1.9 engines?

part 2 haha, whats the maintenance cost like on the newer vehicles when it comes to oil changes? I like how cheap my current car is to maintain, do the new-er TDI's require more expensive oils and filters? Along with parts that need to be swapped out on every oil change? Minus the filter of course haha...

Assuming that your 1.9 is stock, the performance difference is considerable. The new TDIs have 4 valves per cylinder, not 2. They have an all new (more precise) fuel injection system and they deliver 140hp and 236 ft-lbs of torque (320 Nm).

As for maintenance costs, they require VW 507.0 motor oil and this costs between $7.00 to $9.00 (US) depending on where you buy it, but oil changes are only required every 10,000 miles (16,000km). DSG transmissions require a fluid change every 40,000miles (about 65,000km). This DSG service requires special tools and costs between $250 to $750 (US) depending on who does it (dealers are the most expensive). Oil filters and fuel filters (every 20,000 miles) are about the same price as other VWs - nothing special.

Have Fun!

Don

 

[cwescapexlt4x4]

Thanks for the information here, on the first page - item #8 really helped:
Q: Every time I turn off the engine I hear a soft, high-pitched whining sound from under the hood; it stops after about 30 seconds. Is this normal?
A: Yes. Opinions still differ regarding what's going on (the ECU is adjusting something in the engine), but we know that every '09 does it. My personal opinion is that this is your engine's way of saying "Weeeeeeeee! That was fun!" Its that kinda car. Update: a recent VW TSB ascribes this noise to the EGR valves: "After switching ignition off, the EGR system must go through an adaption of the valves to maintain calibration. These noises are considered normal...."

That perfectly explains it!

 

[kwalsh24]

Thanks Don for the info! I found where I can get filters from, now where can I buy the oil for these engines, also any specific brand? I am also confused, normally when you change oil on you do the filter, why is it that you say the oil filter can go 20000k but the oil only 16000k? Also Whats the maintenance schedule like on these cars? The car is a 6spd so does it require anything?

I just purchased a 09 Sportwagen Comfortline ~2000km 6speed $18,5k out of Birmingham Michigan, I am excited. I took the car for a test drive 2 weeks back and I fell in love and spun the tires while doing so. The new 2.0TDI has a lot more power than the 1.9 in my golf! I was impressed! I will be picking it up this weekend I hope! One thing I did notice during the test drive is how little pressure it takes to push the clutch pedal down, is that normal? made it hard to even feel the pedal under my foot.

Also has anyone found a good place to go to get molded floor mats? My car has a tan interior and I know without the protection the carpet will be brown in no time.

Also, what is the first thing i should do to the car when i get it home? The dealership is doing a oil change on it before I get it as it was being drove daily by the sales guy who sold it to me.....

Thanks!

 

[JSWTDI09]

Thanks Don for the info! I found where I can get filters from, now where can I buy the oil for these engines, also any specific brand? I am also confused, normally when you change oil on you do the filter, why is it that you say the oil filter can go 20000k but the oil only 16000k? Also Whats the maintenance schedule like on these cars? The car is a 6spd so does it require anything?

I just purchased a 09 Sportwagen Comfortline ~2000km 6speed $18,5k out of Birmingham Michigan, I am excited. I took the car for a test drive 2 weeks back and I fell in love and spun the tires while doing so. The new 2.0TDI has a lot more power than the 1.9 in my golf! I was impressed! I will be picking it up this weekend I hope! One thing I did notice during the test drive is how little pressure it takes to push the clutch pedal down, is that normal? made it hard to even feel the pedal under my foot.

Also has anyone found a good place to go to get molded floor mats? My car has a tan interior and I know without the protection the carpet will be brown in no time.

Also, what is the first thing i should do to the car when i get it home? The dealership is doing a oil change on it before I get it as it was being drove daily by the sales guy who sold it to me.....

Thanks!

Oil and oil filter should be changed together. I have no idea why they would list different numbers. Are you sure they are talking about the oil filter? The clutch does not require a lot of force. This is might be because it is hydrolic and not a cable.

Floor mats can be purchased from VW (Monster Mats) or from WeatherTech (and probably other places).

The first thing you should do (before you leave the dealer!!) is to verify that they used the correct oil and did not overfill it. Both of these errors are surprisingly common at dealerships.

There are many 507.0 approved oils. I am not sure where the best places to buy it are in Canada. I use Mobil 1 ESP because it is approved and because it is readily available at PepBoys stores. However, I don't think that there are PepBoys stores in Canada. I would ask other Canadian TDI owners in the Ontario forum about this.

Here is a partial list of approved oils (the 507.0 oils start at about the eighth line): http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/VW507_oils.pdf

Have Fun!

Don

 

[kwalsh24]

Perfect, I was just questiong your line of "Oil filters and fuel filters (every 20,000 miles)" in your post, thought it was puzzling haha. I am going to question the oil that will be used in the car right now.

thanks for the headsup!


Now this goes out to all, Has anyone ever used the Weathertech FloorLiner DigitalFit? Was perhaps thinkign about getting these liners for my car. just curious as to if anyone else has had any experience with these liners or not


Thanks!

 

[JSWTDI09]

Now this goes out to all, Has anyone ever used the Weathertech FloorLiner DigitalFit? Was perhaps thinkign about getting these liners for my car. just curious as to if anyone else has had any experience with these liners or not
Thanks!

Search will be your friend if you get to know it. Try this:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=271365
or
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=298204
or
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=299874

Have Fun!

Don

P.S. This is starting to get "off topic" for a FAQ thread. More questions should probably go into different (or new) threads.

 

[kwalsh24]

Sorry haha, its still semi on topic, car care issues lol

 

[MHC48]

I'm about to hit 40k miles on my '09 Jetta TDI sedan and I seem to recall reading that there was some important, $expensive$, and of course out of the scheduled paid for maintenance that has to be done then, which when I bought the car seemed a long time away. But I've done a number of long trips with it and I've gotten here faster than expected. Is there something that needs to be done at this point?

 

[BEN721364]

I'm about to hit 40k miles on my '09 Jetta TDI sedan and I seem to recall reading that there was some important, $expensive$, and of course out of the scheduled paid for maintenance that has to be done then, which when I bought the car seemed a long time away. But I've done a number of long trips with it and I've gotten here faster than expected. Is there something that needs to be done at this point?

Yup. 40000 miles is time for the first big service, including brake hydraulic flush. See your service book for details.

 

[JSWTDI09]

Yup. 40000 miles is time for the first big service, including brake hydraulic flush. See your service book for details.

The OP also has a DSG. This is the really expensive part, changing the DSG fluid and filter. This alone ranges from about $250 to $600 depending on who does it (the dealer is usually the most expensive).

Have Fun!

Don

 

[BEN721364]

Mine also had the dual clutch transmission. Including the brake fluid flush, I paid under $1000 at a VW dealership for the comlpete 40,000 mile service by the book.

The OP also has a DSG. This is the really expensive part, changing the DSG fluid and filter. This alone ranges from about $250 to $600 depending on who does it (the dealer is usually the most expensive).

Have Fun!

Don

 

[All of Us]

Yup. 40000 miles is time for the first big service, including brake hydraulic flush. See your service book for details.

Are you saying that VW changed the service interval for the brake fluid change to a mileage figure rather than the old "every 2 years regardless of mileage" standard?

Dan

 

[BEN721364]

Are you saying that VW changed the service interval for the brake fluid change to a mileage figure rather than the old "every 2 years regardless of mileage" standard?

Dan

Nope.

 

[JSWTDI09]

Are you saying that VW changed the service interval for the brake fluid change to a mileage figure rather than the old "every 2 years regardless of mileage" standard?

Dan

Actually, VWoA changed the brake fluid change to be part of the 30,000 "carefree maintenance". The official schedule still says "2 years regardless of mileage", but apparently VW decided it was important enough to add it to the 30k maintenance. Read the link below.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/VW...enance_Program_Diesel_Engine_ss_VWC-09-04.pdf

P.S. AFAIK, this only applies to the carefree maintenance in the US.

Have Fun!

Don

 

[All of Us]

Thanks for the clarification guys!

Dan