Engine Mount Bracket issue

[reildawg]

Decided it was time to fix the thunk sound when I brake, but ended up in a bad situation. I ordered new mounts and TTY bolts, but the threads of the bracket bolted to the engine have been damaged by a previous owner/mechanic. The 2 bolts connecting the mount to the bracket were,
A) an oversized TTY bolt
B) a high grade steel bolt with locking washer
A helicoil came out with the TTY bolt, the steel bolt had just been torqued in by force it seems (coarse threads in fine thread hole). I don't need the car immediately, but I would like this to be fixed. Should I find oversized TTY bolts that fits? Get a whole new bracket with good threads and bolt it on? Or just just 2 high grade steel bolts? Any help would be good, if anyone has a spare engine bracket that would be even better. Cheers.

 

[Tdijarhead]

This?
http://www.idparts.com/engine-mount-a4-p-458.html

Or this?
http://www.idparts.com/engine-bracket-a4-alh-p-3223.html

If its just a bracket those can be purchased new, if a thread in the engine block itself is damaged, you'll have to helicoil or timesert that.

And bolt set.

http://www.idparts.com/front-engine-mount-bolts-bracket-bolts-set-a4-p-1129.html

 

[reildawg]

Or this?
http://www.idparts.com/engine-bracket-a4-alh-p-3223.htmll

Yes, the 2 threaded holes in that have been damaged. Probably going to standard auto tomorrow to see if they have any in good condition. I'm hesitant to helicoil/timesert again since its been done once and the coils ended up coming out in the end.

 

[Tdijarhead]

Common problem, just replace it with a new. I'm not sure what standard auto is, but if its a junkyard then any you find may have the same issue.

When you remove or insert these bolts your engine needs to be completely supported and slightly lifted so there is absolutely no engine weight on that mount.

 

[reildawg]

Yes standard is a wreckers, I feel its better to try for a used part then buy new one immediately. Call it my inner environmentalist. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Wingnut]

The mounts are a weak point. Aluminum is soft and does not stand up to repeated removal and reinstallation of bolts. If you get a used one, my advice is to have inserts installed to make sure there is sufficient strength in the threads to hold up and engine. I have a time sert kit and can put them in your new(used) mount if you want.

 

[Tdijarhead]

I would feel confident taking Wingnut up on his offer. I would be reluctant to Helicoil that mount and trust it, but I wouldn't feel bad at all with a time sert installed. In fact I understand that its better than a new one.

 

[reildawg]

I ended up pillaging a good bracket from a parts car. I took a new bolt with me and the both holes had good bite in the threads, took it home, swapped it in, torqued and clocked the new blocks and she's good to go. Wingnut how hard are those time serts to do? I have the old bracket out might as well prep it for someone.

On a side note, I had to remove some pieces of the turbo air ducting to access bolts and found it very oily inside. Turbo issue right? Next issue after my exhaust hanger I suppose...

 

[craig01b]

Time serts are stronger than the original mounts were new. Easy to do, but the kit is pricy as are the inserts.

 

[Wingnut]

On a side note, I had to remove some pieces of the turbo air ducting to access bolts and found it very oily inside. Turbo issue right? Next issue after my exhaust hanger I suppose...

Oil in the intake tubing is normal. The CCV redirects oil vapors from the engine into the intake and it condenses back to oil and is deposited in the tubing and intercooler. Not an indicator of a turbo problem.