Electrical Gremlin

[1854sailor]

The Sportwagen wouldn't crank over today. It has been running issue free since we got it 3 years ago. When I pushed the start button, I got all of the warnings that one would expect with a low voltage issue. I checked it and it was at 8 volts, so I put a charger on it for a couple of hours and it started right up. When I shut it down, everything went off as usual, but while I was sitting in the car, the ScanGauge came back on for 10-15 seconds then off for the same amount of time before coming back on again. I thought I heard a click under the hood so I got out to have a closer listen. Sure enough, there was a click when the ScanGauge came on and another when it went off. I unplugged the ScanGauge and didn't hear any more clicking, so I'll do a VCDS scan in the AM but if anyone has any suggestions, please chime in. BTW, the click was coming from the driver's side of engine compartment near the fuse/relay box and one of the control units.

 

[Q5Quint]

The mk4 I had did that when I first got it~ and it was just dirty battery terminals. I cleaned and re-tightened all those big cables as well and issue seems fixed. Just like you said crazy low voltages and lots of relay clicks when key turns, no crank, clock on the dash would even reset back to 12:00 at each time. Took the battery to get tested since it was brand new and it was fine. Would even do it on a battery charger sometimes.

Buy that little $3 brush and scrape them good inside and out, and add your electric grease. The connectors on mine had a layer of corrosion keeping the main battery cables from tightening up all the way~ I couldn't see it until my pop took them off to clean them proper, and pointed it out. I guess when someone put a new battery in last the corrosion goop got inside of the connector screw and was keeping it from closing all the way.

Goodluck!

 

[thundershorts]

If your battery is the original one, its over 5 years old and just died. Replace it with a top quality one and you'll be good for another 5. Bosch battery at pep boys dealer parts is 94. Its made by exide. Figure 20-33/ year covers battery.

 

[thundershorts]

I fully expect mine to die when the weather gets colder this fall as its original may production date 2015

 

[1854sailor]

Not having left the car on a trickle charge overnight, it wouldn't start this morning. Charged it up, started it and the VCDS scan showed a LOT of fault codes, all related to low voltage. Cleared the codes and they didn't come back after a drive. New battery tomorrow!

 

[thundershorts]

Milking the last out of a weak/bad battery doesn't do the alternator any favors either, a they aren't designed as 100% duty cycle.

 

[1854sailor]

The battery is out and in the back of the hatchback. Heading to the dealer in a bit...

 

[1854sailor]

So, I put the new battery in, recoded it with VCDS and I now have a TPS and ESC warnings that I can't reset using the "Car" function on the infotainment system. I get a "Function not available" message. Thoughts?

 

[pedroYUL]

In the mkV you just have to drive around for a bit, and those last lights go away.

 

[RIP TDI]

True for MkVII also.

 

[1854sailor]

Yup, I didn't even get 20 feet out of the garage...

In the mkV you just have to drive around for a bit, and those last lights go away.

 

[adjat84th]

I just replaced my OE battery a couple months back due to not holding a charge. Not bad for 6 years old and almost 100k, sticking with OE for that reason.

 

[1854sailor]

Yup, OE for me too, the new battery is a Varta. It's great when you have a cousin who is the parts manager for a local VW dealership. 10% over cost...

 

[RIP TDI]

Yup, OE for me too, the new battery is a Varta. It's great when you have a cousin who is the parts manager for a local VW dealership. 10% over cost...

That's interesting. Varta was a common dealer replacement battery supplier and well-regarded for their durability but has been replaced in recent years by Enertec which does not have as good a reputation. I'm curious what the manufacturing date is on yours and if your experience is an indication that Varta is back as a current supplier.

 

[1854sailor]

I'll check the date code in the AM and let you know.

 

[1854sailor]

Date code on the negative battery post is 03 20.

 

[RIP TDI]

Date code on the negative battery post is 03 20.

Heritage VW in Parkville, MA replaced my battery in June, '17 during the TDI stop-sale prep. It was an Enertec. I hope dealers have switched suppliers now, although Varta today is no doubt sourced differently than it was a few years ago and may no longer live up to its previous stellar reputation.

 

[thundershorts]

Varta probably has ah rating, not the usual cca rating. As far as I know, Varta is built in europe. Ah rating I think is a better indicator of battery capacity than cca.

 

[thundershorts]

Here is a Varta you tube explaining new battery testing results vs a battery that is fully charged after being used.

 

[Bob S.]

Paul; Reads that a battery is in order. These cars are hard on batteries. Also, based upon my experience with Mk IVs & V's, it might be wise to clean the primary grounds on the car. High resistance connections in various grounds can cause a cacophony of issues in the buss. Good luck with it.

 

[1854sailor]

Paul; Reads that a battery is in order. These cars are hard on batteries. Also, based upon my experience with Mk IVs & V's, it might be wise to clean the primary grounds on the car. High resistance connections in various grounds can cause a cacophony of issues in the buss. Good luck with it.

Hi, Bob, I have checked the grounds on both of the 15s and all look fine. We need to get together once this Covid craziness is done...

 

[Bob S.]

Yes. So a GTG right after the election? Good to read on the grounds. I hope it is as simple as the battery. W/hen you get back to MD, I do have a good conductance battery tester if needed.

 

[1854sailor]

It was the battery. I replaced it and all is well...

Yes. So a GTG right after the election? Good to read on the grounds. I hope it is as simple as the battery. W/hen you get back to MD, I do have a good conductance battery tester if needed.

 

[Bob S.]

Safe travels on 95

 

[thundershorts]

The Varta was likely shipped dry, with dealer adding electrolite, so its logical that the battery needed o be put in service to fully charge/activate it. Does VW have a reasonable price on them?

 

[1854sailor]

I think that retail they are around $150.

...Does VW have a reasonable price on them?

 

[adjat84th]

Agreed, I paid $165 after tax

 

[thundershorts]

I don't think Varta quality has been diminished, looks like only place to buy one is from your friendly VAG group dealer.

 

[RIP TDI]

I don't think Varta quality has been diminished, looks like only place to buy one is from your friendly VAG group dealer.

I sure hope you're right. I think there has been a lot of disappointment for owners used to Varta longevity in years past when dealers transitioned to stocking Enertec.

Regardless, I can't imagine Vartas are still manufactured in Europe, at least for NA consumption.

 

[thundershorts]

I can't find any Varta distributers in the US. so i think they must be shipping them in from europe, dry of course so when you buy one, its very fresh which is good. I maybe will try to find a sale price on one myself and activate it when the time comes I need it. Good idea going into winter with original battery to have a replacement on hand. Acid is probably packed separately so you can activate it whenever you want.