Drivers door open sensor

[tactdi]

Where or how does the driver door open sensor work?
I recently replaced the drivers door wiring harness due to broken wires causing controllers to stay awake and drain the battery. Since then, many times when I open the drivers door the interior lights do not come on and the dash diagram of the car with the open door is not indicated. Sometimes the lights will come on and then quickly turn off, with the car dash diagram showing the car door opening and then quickly closing, when the door is still open.
Is there a connection inside the door that I need to check? Is it the connection on the outside (door skin side) that goes into the lock?
The entire harness replacement was not too difficult, I did worry about getting the door skin off and back on without scratching and properly aligned. So, if needed, I can take everything off again.

 

[El Dobro]

It's the door lock itself.

 

[tactdi]

Interesting that the door lock has a problem. When I removed the door skin, the lock tumbler is removed, and the handle. Replacing the electrical plug to the door lock, fits only one way and is clipped in. The electric door locks work, nothing was bumped or hit when the door skin was off.

 

[El Dobro]

The sensor is part of the door lock, so either it's shot or there's still a problem with a wire.

 

[tactdi]

Checked the car with VCDS and have this reoccurring fault.
02071 - Local Databus, 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
I clear the fault, and after a few hours it returns.
As mentioned, some of the options that opening the door controls seem to work, anyone have thoughts on other problems? Bad/blown fuse?

 

[tactdi]

Reading in another thread, I found the measuring blocks for the Drivers door, and was able to determine that when the door opens the sensor does register that the door opened (as the MFD shows (flashes)).
The measuring block is labeled "Contact Switch (F2)". Since I previously removed the door skin, lock, and handle, I plan to remove the lock and handle again to check the pull wire that is clipped to the handle. The the lock (which I will also check for alignment in the bore) and the handle are the only two moving parts that were touched removing the skin. I am thinking that the pull wire is connected to the contact switch, and maybe it is too tight or too loose?

 

[D-Cell_Mekanick]

Mine started doing the same thing last year. I removed the door skin to inspect the harness and found it to be intact. When the door is open the mfd doesn't register it, smack the door where the latch is this will make my latch recognize the door is open. Pretty sure you have the same issue a few of us have and that's a failing door latch. But please try and figure it out, I don't want to spend $150 on a new latch just do the darn lite comes on when the door is opened.

 

[740GLE]

maybe some lube could smarten the switch up, be careful with over spray though

 

[tactdi]

Where is the micro switch? When I had the door skin off and the inside panel, I did not remember seeing a switch. I certainly was not looking for one, since I was focused on getting the harness replaced and the skin put back on correctly.

 

[D-Cell_Mekanick]

Where is the micro switch? When I had the door skin off and the inside panel, I did not remember seeing a switch. I certainly was not looking for one, since I was focused on getting the harness replaced and the skin put back on correctly.

It's said to be built into the switch.


Edit: oops, I ment latch, not switch.

 

[Lurchalicious]

It's said to be built into the switch.

X2 - look up the Mk4 how to forums on the vortex, someone there did a write up called "the $3 door switch fix". You have to take the unit out and disassemble the electronic unit to inspect/repair/replace the switch and/or solder connections

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

 

[tactdi]

I found that $3 how to in the MKIV section of TDIClub. I plan to try spraying lub into the door lock as a first try, since I did not touch the door lock when replacing the door skin.

 

[tactdi]

Sprayed Lub into the door latch tonight, without seen any immediate change.
Not sure if letting it soak overnight will improve.
I did open/close the door several times, and it seems if I open the door and keep the handle pulled out, the MFD light will stay lit indicating the drivers door is open. This weekend I plan to remove the lock barrel and tighten the wire the door latch pulls on to see it that improves the light.

 

[Lurchalicious]

If you are removing the lock mechanism then the electronic controller will be in your hands as well so you may as well open it up.

Aside from switches another problem is weak solder joints on the switch posts (inside the mechanism on the PCB board), they weaken from original poor solder and probably door closings.

You can add more or use a heat gun/ soldering iron to fix the connections.

If else its the micro switch and it would need to be replaced with that radio shack part number #275-016A (SPDT switch w/o roller).
You will need two small screws to secure it inplace of the old switch.

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[tactdi]

A few days after spraying the lock with silicone lub, I sprayed it again, and gave it a good soaking. This seems to have helped. Over the past few weeks the door open indicator and interior lights have been coming on. Plan to spray it again if it acts up, just want to avoid opening up the door.

 

[MyAvocation]

Aside from switches another problem is weak solder joints on the switch posts (inside the mechanism on the PCB board), they weaken from original poor solder and probably door closings.

This is excellent advice and fixed an issue on a friends car over the summer. All components on the circuit board tested good and could not detect cold/bad solder joints -- even under magnification. As a Hail Mary I re-soldered all joints and all was well.

Today's low voltage digital circuits don't take much to create open/intermittent contacts.

 

[D-Cell_Mekanick]

Mines been getting worse, I shot some Deoxit in it hope that will help.