Driver side power recline not working

[hangman]

Yes, that's the idea.
So, just to confirm, I see that you have a picture of the T10a connector in the floor with the seat harness connector removed:

Tester set to DC Volts, red probe on terminal 9 (left spade in bottom row) and black probe on terminal 5 (right-most spade on top row), measurement is 12V or 0V.

If 0V here is confirmed, you should be able to use a couple of (smaller) spade terminals to supply 12V through the female side of T10a to the seat back motor switch. --g

that’s correct. I got no voltage when testing those two connectors. I’m going to get the 10 amp in-line fuse, and a couple of small spade terminals

 

[hangman]

The temporary battery supply worked to give power to the seat. I put a 10 amp in-line fuse on the red wire (from jump pack). I got the spade terminals and it fit perfect into that wiring harness. I’ve got it now in a comfortable position.

I started the car and check the panoramic sunroof and it’s working. So that means that 50 amp fuse panel B is working, correct?

I will go out there in a bit and check those other fuses in panel C that you mentioned.

thanks again

 

[hangman]

Once again, can you help me with that chassis ground location in fuse panel B? Is it a metal torx connector (in the center in between all the fuses)? Or is it one of those wires coming up on the side in front of the fuse panel?

 

[hangman]

Main fuse panel inside engine compartment

• hangman
• Apr 10, 2023

Is chassis ground that flat metal plate that the larger/thicker battery wire connects to?

I went out there with a tester and put the black lead on that metal plate. I couldn’t get a reading out of any of the 50 amp fuses or 30 and 40 amp fuses. I only got readings out of seven fuses.


F21

F22

F23

F24



F12

F13

F14



Are working. Getting 12V readings

Unless I’ve got the wrong grounding point?

 

[hangman]

You also want me to pull “S44” (the yellowish 20 amp thermal fuse) and check for voltage at the connections underneath. The other connector goes to chassis ground? Is that correct?

I went back inside to fuse, panel, C and pulled that floor trim panel out to get back to chassis ground. I don’t have a fuse in position 18. I have one in 17 (10 amp fuse). Am I supposed to have a fuse in position 18? Is it possible while I was checking fuses months ago I put it back in the wrong slot?

fuses 32 & 39 have 12v

I checked it again and there’s no connections inside the slot in position number 18

I removed the 20amp thermal fuse (S44). I checked voltage at chassis ground and to the terminals at S44. I got 12 V at the bottom connector & nothing at the top connector (which I believe you said it would be normal).

 

[hangman]

But I’m not sure what’s happening inside of panel B. I suspect I don’t have the correct ground location? Can you clarify for me where chassis ground is near fuse panel B?

 

[DrGERTol]

..
I removed the 20amp thermal fuse (S44). I checked voltage at chassis ground and to the terminals at S44. I got 12 V at the bottom connector & nothing at the top connector (which I believe you said it would be normal).

This tells us Terminal 30 (unswitched) 12V is getting to thermal fuse S44, which is expected.
The next thing you could do (carefully!) is check continuity between the top fuse connector and male terminal T10a/9 (red/black wire). Since you measured 12V at the lower fuse connector/terminal, we expect current to flow through thermal fuse S44 to the top connector, and then through the red/black wire in the harness to terminal T10a/9.

Regarding the ground location for measuring circuit voltage in Fuse Panel B, look for the starter battery ground connection just behind Panel B (and next to the starter battery). --g

 

[hangman]

This tells us Terminal 30 (unswitched) 12V is getting to thermal fuse S44, which is expected.
The next thing you could do (carefully!) is check continuity between the top fuse connector and male terminal T10a/9 (red/black wire). Since you measured 12V at the lower fuse connector/terminal, we expect current to flow through thermal fuse S44 to the top connector, and then through the red/black wire in the harness to terminal T10a/9.

Regarding the ground location for measuring circuit voltage in Fuse Panel B, look for the starter battery ground connection just behind Panel B (and next to the starter battery). --g

I went from the top connector for S44 with the tester and the other end to the mating surface for the red/black wire. Testing continuity:

nothing!

now, where is this trouble now?

 

[hangman]

This tells us Terminal 30 (unswitched) 12V is getting to thermal fuse S44, which is expected.
The next thing you could do (carefully!) is check continuity between the top fuse connector and male terminal T10a/9 (red/black wire). Since you measured 12V at the lower fuse connector/terminal, we expect current to flow through thermal fuse S44 to the top connector, and then through the red/black wire in the harness to terminal T10a/9.

9EC861D4-2074-408D-B03C-01CC4AB8B775.jpeg

• hangman
• Apr 11, 2023

7D5CAE96-3492-4E1A-A800-1171C26AB888.jpeg

• hangman
• Apr 11, 2023

Regarding the ground location for measuring circuit voltage in Fuse Panel B, look for the starter battery ground connection just behind Panel B (and next to the starter battery). --g

I haven’t done any work yet relating to the starter motor. And I’m not even sure where the heck it is? Here are a couple of other pictures of the area near the fuse panel B

I really don’t know what area I’m looking for?

 

[hangman]

I had My Son help me. I was just able to get the tester from the chassis ground location underneath the floor panel near the driver seat. And get the other end of the tester to fuse panel B

The funny thing is all of the other fuses showed 12 V except the first seven that I tested earlier (from a different ground point- rectangular plate behind thick battery cable) near the front edge of the fuse box. This time the same seven showed nothing:


F21
F22
F23
F24

F12
F13
F14

 

[DrGERTol]

Sorry this is so confusing -- but in the picture just above, your hand is next to "the" chassis ground connection from the (starter) battery -- all ground circuits (brown wires) lead back to that connection and black cable to the battery (-) terminal.
And regarding the Panel B fuses showing 0V, these are all switched with the ignition ON (relay J317).

Now, the big question is; Why no continuity from S44 to T10a/9 ?! The wiring diagram does show (B236) Positive Connection 6 between S44 and and T10a/9; (B326) is used to send 12V over to the passenger seat adjustment. So, what about passenger seat back adjustment ? You should be finding +12V on the same terminal under the passenger seat: T10b/9 (red/black wire). --g

 

[hangman]

Sorry this is so confusing -- but in the picture just above, your hand is next to "the" chassis ground connection from the (starter) battery -- all ground circuits (brown wires) lead back to that connection and black cable to the battery (-) terminal.
And regarding the Panel B fuses showing 0V, these are all switched with the ignition ON (relay J317).

Now, the big question is; Why no continuity from S44 to T10a/9 ?! The wiring diagram does show (B236) Positive Connection 6 between S44 and and T10a/9; (B326) is used to send 12V over to the passenger seat adjustment. So, what about passenger seat back adjustment ? You should be finding +12V on the same terminal under the passenger seat: T10b/9 (red/black wire). --g

the passenger seat back adjustment & lumbar controls have always worked. That side of the car had no water problems

I’m actually going to be working most of tomorrow and I’ll try to follow up on this in the afternoon.

Is there anything else you want me to check tomorrow? Do you want me to check anything on the passenger side? Do you want me to check that red/black wire connection on that side? Am I checking voltage between the brown wire and that black/red wire (passenger seat)?

 

[DrGERTol]

Given that the front passenger seat works, you know that thermal fuse S44 is correct -- both seats use the same circuit.
I would want to inspect the wire/terminal crimp conditions on the under-side of the T10a connector mounted in the floor. I, however, have no idea how that connector block is released for removal, and I don't see it described in any of the repair manuals. --g

 

[hangman]

I just did a preliminary search online for
“VW Sportwagen tdi T10A wiring connector” in case I need to replace something. Well, I’m not seeing any parts available using those search terms. I know there’s a base just clips into a plastic holder. Because on one occasion while I was unclipping the connector, the base came out with it. So I’ll have to examine the bottom part along with the condition of the mating surfaces and wires underneath.

Do you have any idea what the part number for that is? I don’t know if it needs to be replaced I will I look into it further. I’m assuming I would have to back trace the wiring harness to that connector? Or at the very least figure out if there’s corrosion in the wiring behind those mating surfaces? Is that correct?

I will follow up later after work

thanks again!

 

[DrGERTol]

...
I know there’s a base just clips into a plastic holder. Because on one occasion while I was unclipping the connector, the base came out with it.
...

Well, you're a step ahead of me on this, then (our wagon has been at the dealer since mid March for body corrosion warranty repairs).
I can't find the VAG part number for the base part, but the connector bodies are described here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/golf+variant+sportwagen/gov/2013-685/9/971-971082/
Connector T10a is part -59-
Given that T10a/9 is supposed to have constant 12V, be extra careful with the base unclipped from the floor for inspection. --g

 

[hangman]

Well, you're a step ahead of me on this, then (our wagon has been at the dealer since mid March for body corrosion warranty repairs).
I can't find the VAG part number for the base part, but the connector bodies are described here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/golf+variant+sportwagen/gov/2013-685/9/971-971082/
Connector T10a is part -59-
Given that T10a/9 is supposed to have constant 12V, be extra careful with the base unclipped from the floor for inspection. --g

i’m assuming that is a foreign-based parts operation. It’s asking for some form of payment that I’m not familiar with. Is there any chance there is a domestic source for T10A? If I can get the actual part, I might just have a mechanic swap it all out. Well.

I went to an auto parts store today and bought a aerosol can of CRC QD electronic cleaner. I sincerely doubt that I’m going to be lucky and that it will clean the contacts and restore power.

 

[hangman]

I found it online by searching the part number
7L0972762 VAG

FBA9BF53-021E-489E-9646-0D8E50630932.png

• hangman
• Apr 12, 2023

this is correct, yes?

 

[hangman]

ECS Tuning also has it:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/housing/7l0972762/

Again, this is the correct part? Yes?

I’ve noticed that the photos from all three of these sources don’t actually show the metal spade terminals. How does that get done? Is it done when the wiring is brought into that block? I’m trying to understand the process.

thanks!

 

[hangman]

I spoke with a friend who is very handy with cars. He had a similar problem recently with his jeep liberty. He had a “hair” or corrosion on a relay block. He told me about a couple of products. One is an adjustable set of very fine diamond files in different shapes. They are for cleaning electrical connectors including spade terminals and the female part electrical connectors. Then he also sent me a link to a product called deoxIT. It is designed to clean deeply into any corroded or oxidized electrical contacts and dissolve any corrosion. It has a needle applicator for getting into tight spots. I am going to order them and give it a try. I hoping that these products work and can clean deeply into that connector with the spade terminals.

it will take a few days for them to arrive. I’ll let you know whether it works or not.

thanks!!!

 

[DrGERTol]

Part number 7L0972762 is for the connector housing only -- the male terminals are supplied separately, as needed. This won't be the problem. And a little bit of oxidation on the male spade terminal won't affect its electrical resistance significantly. That's why you need to inspect the wire harness side of the T10a connector housing -- does the red/black wire show any signs of corrosion/oxidation due to moisture ? --g

 

[hangman]

I actually got a better photo this afternoon of those spade connectors. I had hit them with 320. Sandpaper a few days ago. Probably still not that good. Let me know what you think?

By the way, is there a part number for those spade terminals?

AE1C4C5C-F98E-4668-88EE-C60B9E6C6586.jpeg

• hangman
• Apr 12, 2023

 

[hangman]

Part number 7L0972762 is for the connector housing only -- the male terminals are supplied separately, as needed. This won't be the problem. And a little bit of oxidation on the male spade terminal won't affect its electrical resistance significantly. That's why you need to inspect the wire harness side of the T10a connector housing -- does the red/black wire show any signs of corrosion/oxidation due to moisture ? --g

Is there a part # for the spade terminals? In case that parts needs replacement and reconnected to the wires underneath?

I know you said this has constant 12V power. If that 50amp fuse is removed from fuse panel B would that remove the 12v at that housing (with the spade terminals)?

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Rather than meticulously clean every connector and wire, you might be better off visiting a junkyard and snipping off a few inches of whatever wiring you need, and splice it back in.

 

[hangman]

Rather than meticulously clean every connector and wire, you might be better off visiting a junkyard and snipping off a few inches of whatever wiring you need, and splice it back in.

Good idea. Thanks!

 

[DrGERTol]

The best scenario here is that moisture corroded the constant power terminal T10a/9 and you need only replace that terminal, which is not too difficult with a set of terminal extraction tools (used to release the metal terminal from the plastic body). OE repair wires (pre-crimped terminals with proper sized wires) are not inexpensive from your local dealer parts counter -- much better to find the connector with a usable pigtail length of harness from a salvage yard, like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134029502990 (too bad it's in Lithuania!). Worst case the terminals are all good and the discontinuity is somewhere in the wire harness.
BTW, removing 50A fuse 29 from Panel B would remove power from this circuit, making it safe to work on (just make sure to confirm by trying the seat back adjustment on the passenger side). --g