pbbreath
Well-known member
Although the Metalnerd kit looks VERY well made and overall not a bad deal for what you get I didn't want to jump through all the hoops to get one.
Soooo.....I fabricated my own kit. VERY little fabrication is needed for this kind of a lift and I found some very user friendly durable solutions.
DISCLAIMER:
I take full responsibility for the kit I made for ONLY my personal vehicle. Should anyone decide to make a kit similar to the one I've made below they take onto themselves full liability for its structural integrity, build quality and correct assembly.
Parts List.
2 - 4" to 2" Black Hex Bushings - $14 Each
2 - 2" Pipe Threaded - $3
4 - 2 1/4 inch long 1x1 Box Tubing or Solid Stock. - $4
4 - Longer Metric Bolts for Factory Upper Shock Mounts - < $1
4 - Longer Metric Bolts with Nylock Nuts for Upper Shock Mounts - < $1
2 - 1" Pipe 2" Long - < $1
Tools Required
Spring Compressors
Impact Gun - for spring compressors
Grinder - (Die Grinder, Bench Grinder or Angle Grinder)
Drill & Bit assortment
Basic Mechanics tools
Jack & Jack Stands
Optional Parts
VR6 Springs or Shine Racing Springs (I used VR6 springs)
This will give you another 1/2 to 1" of lift
Bilstein TC Shocks (I'm using Stock VR6 for now and getting TC's in the spring)
I highly suggest Bilstein shocks and struts, I don't think there's a better manufacturer out there.
To start with I wanted to test the structural integrity of the 4" to 2" Hex busing. I took plate steel a 20 ton Jack the bushing and a 15 Ton Grove Crane and proceeded to lift up a corner of the crane on 1 bushing. Knowing I could lift 10,000 pounds at least on it makes me confident it can hold up 1 corner of my golf.
2" Long 1" Pipe was tested in the same fashion for the front without failure.
The 2" Pipe for the Rear Blocks has to be turned or ground down to about half its original thickness for the springs to slide over them snugly. I did this with a bench grinder in about 10 minutes until they were perfect.
The Front Spacer Goes in between the spring cap and the busing right below the strut tower bearing. Compressing VR6 springs an additional 2" takes a LOT of force so make sure you are using a nice set of spring compressors. Harbor Freight **** not advised. Re-Assemble suspension as normal. DONE.
2" Long Blocks of solid or 1x1 Box tubing Need to be drilled at 1 1/2 inch spacing, make the holes slightly oversized in case your drilling isn't perfect on the car. The Car will need holes drilled the same size and spacing below the original nutserts. You will Bolt the blocks to the car first by the OEM upper bolt holes then the upper strut mount and strut to the car by the lower bolt holes. The is tricky as there is limited space to hold the (Nylock) nut behind. If you have access to a nutsert kit you could use steel nutserts instead of nuts in the back to make the job a lot easier.
Install the Springs and Spacers just as you would stock and re-install lower rear shock mounts just as stock.
Throw your wheels back on and you're ready to go. My friend and I did the entire lift in about 3 hours. I'd bet it could be done faster now that there's nothing to figure out.
Here's the Before and after Pictures.
Car on Bilstein Sport and H&R Sport Springs, Lowered 2" with 18" R32 wheels holding 225/40/18's.
(You can Run 205/70/15's while lowered I found out before I did the lift!)
After the lift: 8" of Ground Clearance to the Skid Plate.
Soooo.....I fabricated my own kit. VERY little fabrication is needed for this kind of a lift and I found some very user friendly durable solutions.
DISCLAIMER:
I take full responsibility for the kit I made for ONLY my personal vehicle. Should anyone decide to make a kit similar to the one I've made below they take onto themselves full liability for its structural integrity, build quality and correct assembly.
Parts List.
2 - 4" to 2" Black Hex Bushings - $14 Each
2 - 2" Pipe Threaded - $3
4 - 2 1/4 inch long 1x1 Box Tubing or Solid Stock. - $4
4 - Longer Metric Bolts for Factory Upper Shock Mounts - < $1
4 - Longer Metric Bolts with Nylock Nuts for Upper Shock Mounts - < $1
2 - 1" Pipe 2" Long - < $1
Tools Required
Spring Compressors
Impact Gun - for spring compressors
Grinder - (Die Grinder, Bench Grinder or Angle Grinder)
Drill & Bit assortment
Basic Mechanics tools
Jack & Jack Stands
Optional Parts
VR6 Springs or Shine Racing Springs (I used VR6 springs)
This will give you another 1/2 to 1" of lift
Bilstein TC Shocks (I'm using Stock VR6 for now and getting TC's in the spring)
I highly suggest Bilstein shocks and struts, I don't think there's a better manufacturer out there.
To start with I wanted to test the structural integrity of the 4" to 2" Hex busing. I took plate steel a 20 ton Jack the bushing and a 15 Ton Grove Crane and proceeded to lift up a corner of the crane on 1 bushing. Knowing I could lift 10,000 pounds at least on it makes me confident it can hold up 1 corner of my golf.
2" Long 1" Pipe was tested in the same fashion for the front without failure.
The 2" Pipe for the Rear Blocks has to be turned or ground down to about half its original thickness for the springs to slide over them snugly. I did this with a bench grinder in about 10 minutes until they were perfect.


The Front Spacer Goes in between the spring cap and the busing right below the strut tower bearing. Compressing VR6 springs an additional 2" takes a LOT of force so make sure you are using a nice set of spring compressors. Harbor Freight **** not advised. Re-Assemble suspension as normal. DONE.

2" Long Blocks of solid or 1x1 Box tubing Need to be drilled at 1 1/2 inch spacing, make the holes slightly oversized in case your drilling isn't perfect on the car. The Car will need holes drilled the same size and spacing below the original nutserts. You will Bolt the blocks to the car first by the OEM upper bolt holes then the upper strut mount and strut to the car by the lower bolt holes. The is tricky as there is limited space to hold the (Nylock) nut behind. If you have access to a nutsert kit you could use steel nutserts instead of nuts in the back to make the job a lot easier.

Install the Springs and Spacers just as you would stock and re-install lower rear shock mounts just as stock.

Throw your wheels back on and you're ready to go. My friend and I did the entire lift in about 3 hours. I'd bet it could be done faster now that there's nothing to figure out.
Here's the Before and after Pictures.
Car on Bilstein Sport and H&R Sport Springs, Lowered 2" with 18" R32 wheels holding 225/40/18's.

(You can Run 205/70/15's while lowered I found out before I did the lift!)
After the lift: 8" of Ground Clearance to the Skid Plate.

