Diesel Power Active 150V CR Power Module for 2009-2011 VW & Audi 2.0L TDI

[2k11Golf]

I've been on the mailing list for almost 2 years now and have finally gotten an update regarding Diesel Powers new tuning box for the CR 2.0 engines

Hello,
We are sending you this email to let you know that the VW TDI Diesel Power Active Injector Control Module for your 2011 TDI is finally ready for release. After almost two years of research, testing, and development, we're pleased to announce that Diesel Power has released a unique power module for the 150 Volt Injector 2009, 2010 and 2011 2.0L TDI engine. The engineering on this module is considerable, and we know the results you get when you hook this to your TDI are going to impress you.
Unlike previous 1 and 2 channel power modules for the 2009-2010 2.0L TDI's which controlled input to the ECU via the rail pressure and boost sensors, this new module installs by hooking 4 separate harnesses into each of the individual injectors. This module actively controls individual injector timing, rather than trying to send a signal to the ECU. The result is awesome. Lots of power, lots of speed, true active injection control.
These modules are in stock now and ship the same business day you place your order. Installation time is about 20 minutes and when removed before service or repairs, the unit won't void your VW warranty. Here's a link to the modules:
http://www.parleysdieselperformance...module-for-2009-2011-vw-and-audi-2-dot-0l-tdi
As a way to thank you for being on our interest list (and some of you have been patiently waiting for almost two years - we haven't forgotten about you!), when you go to check out use our special 2011 TDI owner coupon code "SAVE11" to get an 11% discount off your purchase of this Diesel Power module.
If you don't have a 2011 TDI and received this email in error, we apologize. Work on the module for the 2012-2013 TDI's continues, and we hope to announce release of that product in the near future. Thank you again for your time and we appreciate the opportunity to serve you.

And here is the link to Parleys
http://www.parleysdieselperformance...module-for-2009-2011-vw-and-audi-2-dot-0l-tdi
I found the FAQ very interesting. Especially the part about using without limitation with the DPF installed. I know that Malone recommends installing an EGR block-off plate as well as using a DPF deleted exhaust. I've emailed them for some clarification on the subject as well as if a stage 1 or 2 intake would also be recommended for use with their new product.
Would like you all to way in here and tell me what you think.

 

[2k11Golf]

Got a quick response back and I see that there are a few views on this thread already so I decided to follow up. Would love to have someone weigh in on this and tell me what they think.

Original email:

Hi, I see on your FAQ that this system can be used in conjunction with the factory EGR.

I am curious about this because I had considered doing an ECU tune through Malone Tuning. They recommend a DPF delete exhaust as well as installing an EGR block-off plate to prevent damage from excessive temperatures during a regen.

How come your system works with the factory exhaust and emissions equipment but there's does not?

Would I still benefit from installing a DPF delete exhaust and EGR block-off plate in conjunction with your system? Or is it completely unnecessary? How about replacing the air intake with a stage 1 or 2 upgrade? Is that necessary as well?

I look forward to learning more about your system because I am keen on keeping a stock appearance to my vehicle and maintaining the remaining warrantee. What you provide seems almost too good to be true!

Response:

The DieselPower Active CR system was designed to be a stand-alone system that does not require any further modifications. We have never seen a significant benefit to removing any of the emission control systems on any vehicles. Removing or altering emission control devices raises concerns for vehicle warranty as well as the EPA is seriously clamping down on individuals or companies doing such modifications.

I personally, would not do an air cleaner modification because you run the risk of damaging the mass airflow meter and any gains in performance will be minimal

The DieselPower Active CR modules are currently available for $899.00

Thank you

Joe Hafner
Diesel Power North America
45693 Elizabeth Drive
Cultus Lake, B.C.
Cell (604) 816-5008
Toll Free (855) 307-6937

 

[LNXGUY]

$900 for a tuning box. Awesome.

Get a proper tune and be done with it.

 

[bbexotics]

Called Parsleys diesel performance about a month ago to discuss and get info on their power module.The guy that answer the phone got so irritaded when I started asking questions,that he gave me no choice but to tell him bye and I hung up on him.He sounded like a real jerk,and acted as if he was doing someone a favor by speaking on the phone.Doubt very seriously they will be succesfull with this attitude,I also asked him info on my 2012 cummins and the same.So good luck to Parsleys

 

[2k11Golf]

$900 for a tuning box. Awesome.

Get a proper tune and be done with it.

Here's an email response I received from the nearest tuner near me who provides the Malone tune:

The Stage 2 software would be $661.50.



The DPF delete (includes EGR block off plate) and downpipe run from $848-1098 depending on options. Install is $375. We use Rawtek exhaust products from Canada. Shipping and tax would be additional on top of this. An intake runs $289 plus $75 install. We use APR carbonio for that. Hope this helps.



Berg Performance

6381 Beach St., Unit D

Denver, CO 80221

p 720.508.4857

f 720.207.6852

bergperformance.com

Tune: 661.50
Downpipe: ~ 950
Intake: 289
Installation: 450
Shipping: ~100?

Total of ~2450.50 for a Malone tune plus necessary equipment to go alone with it. Plus the extra 1400 in the bank I'll need to have as a reserve in case the ECU dies and I need to buy a new one out of pocket.

Suddenly an 800 dollar chip doesn't seem so bad...

But that's why I'm posting this and looking for information. What makes a tuner box so wrong and an ECU tune so right? Plenty of other vehicles rely on tuner boxes. What is it about our vehicles that makes a Malone tune the only tune worth having?

 

[JFettig]

Here's an email response I received from the nearest tuner near me who provides the Malone tune:
Tune: 661.50
Downpipe: ~ 950
Intake: 289
Installation: 450
Shipping: ~100?
Total of ~2450.50 for a Malone tune plus necessary equipment to go alone with it. Plus the extra 1400 in the bank I'll need to have as a reserve in case the ECU dies and I need to buy a new one out of pocket.
Suddenly an 800 dollar chip doesn't seem so bad...
But that's why I'm posting this and looking for information. What makes a tuner box so wrong and an ECU tune so right? Plenty of other vehicles rely on tuner boxes. What is it about our vehicles that makes a Malone tune the only tune worth having?

You don't need any of that excess stuff, all you need is the tune.

 

[LNXGUY]

You don't need any of that excess stuff, all you need is the tune.

Winner winner chicken dinner.

 

[Anyone]

I too have been on the waiting list for this module to be released for just about two years! I'm glad that it's available now. Who is going to be the first to take the plunge? I'm interested to see a power graph as I'm comparing it to the APR module -http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_20tdi_140hp.html

Whichever has more area under the curve will probably be the winner. Thoughts?

 

[Jeffbucc]

Malone Stage 2 can work with the DPF/EGR left intact, in fact he can adjust the tune so it is less agressive. The only thing is that regardless of APR or anyone else's claim, you DPF will do more regens and it will cause the EGR to become blocked more quickly.

The reason I suggest Malone is at least he has been in the business for a long time, and is very very reputable across the TDI world. I would rather go with his tune(if I hadn't already) just by doing research and the massive amounts of information found on Malone, and the disparity found on other tuners like APR.

My .02 cents.

 

[F1 tuning]

Here's an email response I received from the nearest tuner near me who provides the Malone tune:
Tune: 661.50
Downpipe: ~ 950
Intake: 289
Installation: 450
Shipping: ~100?
Total of ~2450.50 for a Malone tune plus necessary equipment to go alone with it. Plus the extra 1400 in the bank I'll need to have as a reserve in case the ECU dies and I need to buy a new one out of pocket.
Suddenly an 800 dollar chip doesn't seem so bad...
But that's why I'm posting this and looking for information. What makes a tuner box so wrong and an ECU tune so right? Plenty of other vehicles rely on tuner boxes. What is it about our vehicles that makes a Malone tune the only tune worth having?

Sorry to put my 2C
WY do you need another ECU ? yes $800 in additional is too much
this don't make any sense.
Beside once you tune "your tuners" should stand behind you to make sure this don't happen......
I don't ask to use my service, but this releases insecutity on "want those that are looking to tune".
Of course i stand behind one issue. that others don't care....
DON't ask me to do DPF deleted software, it would not happen !!!
WY delete DPF to gain 30 HP if can be done with out ???
WY get of the legality if can simply stay on the right side and have the same gain?
Best

 

[bjmarler]

My 04 uses the Diesel Power tuning box. So, I'll just comment on have a tuning box.

I love it and have never looked back wondering if I did the right thing. The 5 - 6 times when there were factory recalls while my TDI was still under warranty, I just unplugged it and took my car to the dealer. No worries about them hassling me, or them flashing over my tune.

The total performance of a box is said to be not quite as good as a well done tune. Personally since I don't race, I'm happy with my HUGE gain in power from my box.

 

[vdubtechhomee]

Diesel power module for cjaa

Installed it under 15 mins, Test drive... AMAZING!, the extra power and torque are felt from idle to redline. No tuning needed all the safety's feature of the engine untouched. and all emission of your vw is still intact. Like they said no footprint and your ECU will not get red flagged when getting scanned at the dealer for warranty purposes. This module is user friendly, and I recommend it to all, with factory warranty still in effect that would like to see pretty good power gains. Lets just say I kept up to a TDI with malone tune, dpf & erg deletes TODAY.

 

[Savageman69]

lol so your 900 dollar tune box kinda kept up to a malone tuned car that cost half the price of your tune box nearly lol....but you cant alter your tune, dpf delete or go bigger turbo lol where do i sign up ha

 

[bjmarler]

Savageman69, that's an easy one. You sign up at the dealer when they try to disallow your next warranty claim. Just kidding. There is no "one is best" in this long ongoing debate. Both "tuning" and "boxes" are great choices that depend on the personality of the owner. Some like the removable aspect of boxes while others like the lower cost of a tune.

My brothers and I are on opposite sides of the fence on this. I chose a box and he chose a tune. Guess who's right? Both, we have great cars with extra performance. Whee!!!

p.s. - Plus I was patient and bought my box from a TDI member that had sold his TDI. So, I paid half, or the same price as a tune. Double Whee!!!

 

[Savageman69]

warranty? dont care rather tune

 

[DPM]

that's your opinion, and it doesn't make others wrong.

 

[RDC98tdi]

My question is, with just adjusting the fueling at the injectors, is there extra boost required? If so, is the ECU able to compensate so that it doesn't run really smokey and clog the DPF?

 

[DPM]

You're making soot regardless. Soot load gets high= time for a regen.

 

[RDC98tdi]

Yes I know that. But a regen just turns soot to ash and the ash doesn't ever leave. At least with a tune there are altered boost maps that can keep the A/F ratio a bit higher. I am sure all tunes and boxes increase soot, but without more air I would imagine more soot. This seems similar to a fancy Evry mod.

 

[DPM]

It's been my experience that because you're not altering the duration of the injection, rather using more rail pressure to push more in in the same timeframe, the effects are very different to using a fooler on a VE.
With Evry the injection duration extends as you increase fuelling, but with no timing advance to attempt to help. You're automatically going to see more soot even if you've got enough air, the fuel is still burning as it heads out the exhaust.

Whereas in a CR you'll see very minimal increases in soot (the atomisation is better esp @ low revs and the timing is still per OE) until you actually run out of air. This is very noticeable with no DPF but you'd need to be looking at lambda with a DPF fitted...

 

[Mike in Anchorage]

I bought one of these CR150 units from a person on here. It's used, and I have had it installed for a few months. I try to run my engine up to about 4k RPM every week or so. When I have a chance, I also make sure the turbo is working hard. Sometimes I find a chance to do both. It is more difficult when the roads are covered in ice.

The past month or so, when hitting it hard, the engine sputters. Definite loss of power, EGR temp drops a bit, but I get no codes or flashes. After a few moments, the car is running like new again.

I have had this occur both on high RPM and on high boost situations. I'm guessing injectors are not acting well with the unit. About 85k miles on the car, and all else is going well. I will hopefully be able to bypass the unit in the next week to see if the car still behaves this way with the original works.

Any hints in the meantime? I'd really prefer helpful comments as opposed to more opinions about whether or not I should have done someting differently. TIA.

 

[Savageman69]

more then likely egt limiter....dpf in and more fuel makes high egts

 

[Mike in Anchorage]

Thanks. I wonder if it spiked that quickly that the monitor didn't have tome to show?

I constantly monitor the EGT on a vent pod and it was fine. About 650°F. My gauge flashes red when it hits 900F and I've seen it go as high as 1150F in a regen cycle with the engine purring along at 2K revs.

I'm gonna bypass the unit tonight and test tomorrow to begin eliminating variables. I have a code reader but not a full VAG-com system. That may show something as well.

 

[DPM]

can you read rail pressure with an OBD device?

 

[DPM]

can you read rail pressure with an OBD device?

 

[Mike in Anchorage]

Not sure I can. I don't recall seeing it as an option.

 

[Mike in Anchorage]

I posted this in another forum after a search for a P0301 misfire code I read today. Since this may or may not have to do with the CR150 unit, I hope it's helpful to post here. It seems from the other thread that the wiring harness for the injectors is fragile, so installing the DieselPower unit may affect the lingevity of the harness. I'm not convinced.

Here is what I posted on the MkV forum:

Erratic symptoms as if the engine is misfiring - initially with hard acceleration, high boost, or high rpms. Yes, I drive the car. Today, similar symptoms with no advance warning - simple drive to the store kind of thing. Several starts later and still running like crap. Vent pod shows boost works fine, no CELs, temps and other parameters look fine.

Drove slowly with lots of vibration to Schucks for a code readout this eve and P0301. I had installed a DieselPower CR150 chip about 6 to 8 months ago - which require tapping into the injector wiring harness. It has worked flawlessly and given me better fuel economy and better power when I need it.

Would it make sense that this wiring harness issue would show up only with high boost, at high RPMs, etc initially? I'll check the harness again, since I have just removed the DieselPower unit. But sincerely, there is no change in the behavior. I'm not convinced the harness is having problems. I've tugged, pulled, re-circuited, and placed carefully back into its original location.

FWIW, the battery is original, and I'll have it checked tomorrow. Alaska can be tough on batteries, but the car gets a warm place to sleep every night and the car is otherwise doing well at 83k miles.

Any other hints, not related to dieselgate or whatever drama gets you started? Just the facts, man.

TIA

 

[Mike in Anchorage]

Many threads end without a solution. I hope this helps a future problem for someone else.
#1 injector was replaced and the car is running fine now. Although I'm not certain the biodiesel [2 - 5%] I've been running for about 50k miles is indicated, I'm going back to pure petro-diesel. I'm not at all concerned about the quality of the brand, but think the anti-gel additives in Alaska fuel probably compound any problem that may arise in the fuel system.