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[Dannyboy]

Deleted

 

[SilverGhost]

Ok, what is the problem? From your post you think the alternator failed. Why? Did the battery get jumped incorrectly and damage it? Did you try to charge a weak battery back up by running the engine? Was a belly shield left off and road salt got into the alternator? Do you have a winch and bumpin' stereo that is drawing a lot of current? There are many reasons for a failure.

I don't know the warranty terms in Canada, but if the car is inside NVLW then it should be covered. The diagnosis charge is simply to cover the dealer in case something causes the repair to not be warranty. If it is shown to be warranty you are not charged anything and VW is charged for diag and repair. Again, I'm talking about US warranty, need to verify CA is the same.

Jason

 

[BobnOH]

Alternators are not wear items. But warranties are all different. Is this a 5 year on the 2014 or some sort of extended warranty (insurance) or .... ?

 

[Ol'Rattler]

An AGM battery is the wrong battery for your car. That is most likely your problem. If charging voltage fluctuates, clean and tighten ground connections. There is at least one ground that may be hidden under the air cleaner box.

Bentley's states that there are 2 types of batteries and you should not replace one type with another type. Most likely, your car came with a flooded cell battery, not an AGM battery.

 

[BobnOH]

Back at the original question, you're wondering if anyone has got them to cover an alternator, not listed in the coverage?
I would troubleshoot the charge system as a whole. It could be alternator, battery, wires, connects. Alternators can be tested by many parts or auto electronics shops. Volt readings give clues but are not conclusive. If feasible, just remove it and take it in. You're conclusion is likely correct, you'll be refreshing that alternator. If you need a new one, get the real thing or repair it.

 

[SilverGhost]

I would also check charging voltage at alternator (between case and + stud) and at fuse panel. Also check between ground post on battery and the alternator case. All of these checks with engine running and loads on (lights, blower fan, heated seats, rear defrost, etc.).

I have seen more problems with cables losing voltage (voltage drop) after a few years of high load use. And I have only replaced a couple alternators in 15+years of doing this.

Jason

 

[turbocharged798]

Me thinks the AGM battery is the problem.

 

[Ol'Rattler]

Me thinks the AGM battery is the problem.

Most likely, since the OP wasted probably almost twice the money on an AGM then the correct battery costs, they are in denial about It being the problem. Notice that they completely blew past that possibility.
"I paid almost $200 for an AGM so it must be better than that silly $120 battery that VW recommends for my car."

Over the years, there have been a few people posting here that wasted money on an AGM and wondered why it gave poor performance compared to the factory battery.

 

[Mongler98]

Regulator faulty, $145 from dealers. Alternator working properly again.

To anyone that needs one,the dealer does sell them separately but will try to sell you complete alternator for $690

Again in plain English-problem started with OEM battery. The OEM battery is still good.AGM was NOT the problem. It never was. It was a spare meant for my other TDI. I didnt go out to buying it for mine.

The title asked about warranty , not diagnosis.Bye

Paying dealer prices, Literally half the cost anywhere else (for a non OEM part) but its a lifetime warranty!

 

[Mongler98]

Actually parts are around $85-$100 CDN range, genuine ones. Cheap ones aren't worth the hassle. Plus you have to wait for part. I didnt.

Advance auto, life time warranty, in stock, $62 usd after stacked discounts. Literally a bolt on part, no hassle. I could go though 3 of them in the $ of your 1 and have $ left over.

 

[pdq import repair]

Advance auto, life time warranty, in stock, $62 usd after stacked discounts. Literally a bolt on part, no hassle. I could go though 3 of them in the $ of your 1 and have $ left over.

Advance auto, AZ, they are all the same and cheap for a reason. They are fine if you are always close to home, never in a rush, and don't mind changing them regular.


My luck seems to run opposite and I could envision having to change out the cheapie in a snowstorm while already running late for an important engagement.


If cost is an issue, I would rather source a good used OEM rather than waste time with likely unreliability.

 

[Mongler98]

No, I'm just being a devil's advocate. Go withOEM, I just hate seeing dealership ripoffs. And for some parts I wont go near anything else with a 10 foot pole. But some things, like thermostats, and regulators ect I'll probably buy cheap and easy to change. Break calipers and cv axles, forget about that.
I was also trying to be sarcastic too in the last 2 posts.

 

[turbocharged798]

ALH alternators are a pain in the arse to install. Less I have to do that job the better.