Clutch kit 101?

[roadhard1960]

I have used the deluxe timing belt kit which you can order. They come with a new water bump, new idler pulleys, new timing and serpentine belt, and new stretch bolts.

I look at a number of vendors. Some have a new clutch kit that might consist of 6 bolts, a disk, a pressure plate, a flywheel. No throwout bearing, no stretch bolts, no seals, no shifter linkage replacement clips (which appear in the manual to be one time use clips), no oem or better transmission oil.

So for a true pro clutch job, what are the parts that you really should replace? I do not really want to go in to replace the clutch only to have to the throwout bearing sing (one site says you should replace the tube the bearing rides on), not thrilled with the idea of the engine falling out because replacement bolts were not used but vendors will only sell you the bolts if you buy the clutch from them.

I bought a clutch a few years ago when it was slipping but it stopped slipping. Now the car is crabby shifting gears sometimes and I have read that the dual mass sometimes fails with that being the first indicator. Crabby means you push the shifter to the "normal" resistance point only to find that I did not even get it half way in to gear and away it grinds. I hate that the clutch is failing with only 192,000 miles on it.

 

[Herm TDI]

A word of advice conserning the Rear Main Oil Seal (RMOS).
Once you have your fly-wheel removed closely inspect your RMOS. If it is not showing signs of seepage or weaping then leave your RMOS alone and do not change it. Have a new OEM VW seal on-hand should you need it but only IF your really need to replace it. Ask your vendor if you can return the seal for a refund (befor your buy it) should you not need it.

As for your discription of "crabby" gears during shifting.
The first thing you need to do is replace the gear lube and then do a shifter rigging adjustment (Easily done on your tranny).

 

[roadhard1960]

Ok. I will start with some fresh gear lube and the shifter adjustment. Is it true that the clips need to be replaced?

 

[alphaseinor]

I've never broken a clip, however I have seen MANY times that they break... I went with a short shifter from www.dieselgeek.com since they don't have those crappy clips. I've also seen slave cylinders that don't want to bleed... however you should just remove the slave from the transmission to avoid it.

might want to check www.boraparts.com they have a Dual diaphragm clutch that is quite awesome...

you will want the four vertical bolts on the transmission mount. all bolts for the flywheel/pressure plate. Flywheel (debate remains on lightened flywheel use on TDIs), clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, axle bolts (twelve of them), the two horizontal bolts on the dogbone.

A tip is to use the widowmaker jack that came with the car and move the engine (being held with a support of course) towards the front of the car. worst case you can remove the spindles on the transmission (where the axles mount up)... IIRC they are a 6mm allen key... it's spring loaded so it's not as easy putting them back in, however it will save a LOT of time and cursing with that rear ear on the engine block.

as for clutch alignment tool... just use a deep 14mm socket from sears while you tighten the pressure plate.

transmission jack is very handy... or some sort of comealong system or ratchet strap.