Boost hose going to EGR/intake manifold...

[slpopp]

Does someone make a collar/clamp to beef of the connection of the rubber boost hose going into the EGR/Intake manfold assembly? What about a different hose manufacturer that makes a more rubust connection, i.e. solid tabs instead of stamped?

The top tab on mine is worn/sheered completely off after only 74K miles. This is a bad design in my opinion; stamping the bosses into the thin metal that makes up the connector on the rubber hose. Of course they are going to wear through.

Another question, are the air connections on the turbo (intake / compressed) of the same construction and are they as likely to fail as this connection has a history of? What about the plastic piping that makes up the rest of the system?

I am trying to get an idea of what other parts I need to pay extra special attention to.

Thanks.

 

[ProStreetDriver]

I have the exact same problem... I was going to take a flat screw driver and bent the clip a little to give it more tension.

 

[slpopp]

I have the exact same problem... I was going to take a flat screw driver and bent the clip a little to give it more tension.

I don't think this will help anything. The metal the clip is made out of (spring-steel I'm assuming) is a lot harder than the material the hose connector is made out of. You can see in the picture where the tab/boss used to be - the little circle on top of the hose connector. Add to it the tabs/boss on the hose connector are just stampings made in the thin material the hose connector is made out of and all you get is the clip shearing off the tab/boss.

Cheap to make but lacking in longevity. Maybe if the hose was only $30 or $40 it wouldn't be so bad, but at ~$100 - COME ON!!!!!!!

 

[Herm TDI]

You need this "Fix-it" :
http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/-strse-378/Pumpe-Duse-Intake-Hose-fdsh-Manifold/Detail

 

[slpopp]

You need this "Fix-it" :
http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/-strse-378/Pumpe-Duse-Intake-Hose-fdsh-Manifold/Detail

This looks like a good solution . One thing I am concerned about is the amount of space between the plates and the rubber hose. Is there enough space so the plates will not/can not cut through the rubber hose over time?

Found the thread started by whitedog when he started making these

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=202005

And the pictures also

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2051116&postcount=34

 

[gforce1108]

Set screws work very well too.

 

[Indianachris]

I have the same problem here. My local shop is closed till Monday. Anyone have a temporary fix until then?

 

[slpopp]

I have the same problem here. My local shop is closed till Monday. Anyone have a temporary fix until then?

May need a GOOD temporary fix - the dealer in my area doesn't stock the hose so they had to order it yesterday (Thursday), SHOULD be here Monday.

 

[Indianachris]

I ordered the part from Kerma but I have to drive the car all weekend.

 

[ProStreetDriver]

I saw someone on the forum here actually used some duct tape to hold it in place.

 

[Indianachris]

I tried a little duct tape but it held for like 10 seconds.

 

[JB05]

It might be possible to wedge a piece of wood behind the hose as a temporary fix.

 

[gforce1108]

When mine first blew off I cleaned it up and used black RTV then secured it with duct tape. Actually worked fine, just looked horrible. I've seen pics of people using zip-ties to hold it in place as well. Didn't take long to drill and tap mine for the set screws (much easier if the valve is removed) and it's never given me a problem since and I run mid 20PSI now (many times over 30 before the boost valve was installed).

I may put mine up for sale when I finally have time to install the PD150 intake that's been sitting on the shelf...

 

[halocline]

You might get a few days out of a few cable ties; one around the hose, then a couple looped under that one cinching the hose in place.

The doggie collar works, it holds the hose in place much more securely than the clip.

 

[ProStreetDriver]

Excellent idea with putting grub screws in it. If the weather isn't too bad tomorrow, I might do that to mine, then I don't have to worry about it every again and it saves me $100+.

 

[gforce1108]

Excellent idea with putting grub screws in it. If the weather isn't too bad tomorrow, I might do that to mine, then I don't have to worry about it every again and it saves me $100+.

I've been running mine for years as pictured above. The set screws are placed outside the oring and keep the hose centered as well and preventing it from slipping out. A NAPA oring part number 1108 makes an extremely tight replacement for the stock oring (had to grease it up to slide in place).

 

[Indianachris]

I tried using some zip ties but have yet to drive it to see if it holds. Hopefully it holds.

 

[PDJetta]

I ordered the part from Kerma but I have to drive the car all weekend.

I read about a temporary fix here where someone put a worm-style hose clamp on the rubber hose and wraped a thin steel strap around the hose clamp and drilled a hole through the strap and attached it to the intake manifold via one of the three allen head screws that holds the throttle assembly to the intake manifold. Take a look at the picture in Post #6 and you'll see how this could work.

--Nate

 

[Indianachris]

I got the fix from Kerma and it is holding really well so far. I drove 150 miles so far.

 

[Tom_B]

This looks like a good solution . One thing I am concerned about is the amount of space between the plates and the rubber hose. Is there enough space so the plates will not/can not cut through the rubber hose over time?

It's very well designed and doesn't touch the hose, also works with a hose with worn nibs (saves $100+). No problems for about two years, still counting.

 

[Indianachris]

1k mile update. Absolutely no problem yet and still holding strong. I would suggest anyone to get the fix before it becomes an issue.