Advice on recent TDI purchase. 06 Jetta

[DillyG15]

Hello I’m a new member here and have never owned a tdi or a diesel for the record.

I recently bought a 2006 Jetta 1.9 with a 5 speed. It has 141k on the vehicle. It’s cosmetically excellent with very little rust. Little bubbling on the front upper fenders and the front rocker panels. I’m not worried about that though I can fix that. I purchased the car for $5500.

I took it for a test drive and it drives excellent. Steering is true and the ride is smooth. Pretty impressive actually for how old the car is and how it spent nearly all of its life in New Hampshire. Has brand new brakes and tires also. The engine sounds good to me. Decently smooth. In the engine bay seems the engine has a shake. I assume it needs an engine mount. No big deal if that’s the case. Idles perfect, didn’t catch any leaks and personally seems like a mechanically sound engine. Also the guy who sold it to me said apparently the previous owner replaced the timing belt and water pump. He said he took pictures of it and to me it looks legit. From my eye it looks like there is in fact new parts in there. Metal looks “newer” on the parts and the belt seems to look fine. Visually it looks like something was replaced.

I got some pics here of what I got.

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

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• DillyG15
• Jun 5, 2021

Okay from the research I’ve done I know these years engines code is called “BRM”. I have done some research and learned that they have actually quite a few issues. Timing belt, high pressure fuel pump and the cam wearing out seem to be the big dollar ones. What should I be looking for with other stuff. Maybe you guys could lead me in a direction for maintenance too and what I should do right now to keep her running good for a while. And maybe some good prices on that stuff. I’m new to the vw game and diesel. Thanks and let me know if I got a good car.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

"06 Jettas are popular, and there are still quite a few of them around. You're right that the cam is a wear issue, but your car doesn't have an HPFP. That's in the later, common rail cars. MKVs do have a few other issues, however, including broken wires in the engine harness (usually causing a misfire), issues with the wiring in the driver's door causing the window to not go up and down, and the coolant hoses to the heater core tend to fail.

The engine shaking you saw may be a failing dual mass flywheel (DMF). They have a service life. 141K is kind of early for failure, but not unheard of. And I would pull the valve cover and inspect the cam for wear. if it's seriously worn it can also cause the engine to shake at idle.

Others can add issue they hear about, but at your car's relatively low mileage, I don't think you'll have a lot of trouble once you sort the cam/DMF issues, if necessary.

Welcome! There are a lot of TDI owners in NH.

 

[DillyG15]

Thanks what do you recommend for a cam if it needs replacement?

 

[Diesel Fumes]

Thanks what do you recommend for a cam if it needs replacement?

Buying everything from idparts is what I do

 

[Ramp Rat]

I bought an ’06 Jetta TDI BRM about 3 years ago. I live in Arizona but the vehicle spent most of its live in Wisconsin. My rear suspension looked a lot like yours and I ended up replacing everything. The bushings were cracking and the adjustment bolts were rusted together.

What IndigoBlueWagon said is correct. Pull the valve cover and look at the cam and lifters. At you mileage they could need replacement. He is also right about the dual mass flywheel (DMF). It should be something to keep a close eye on. You might get a mechanic’s stethoscope and listen to the area of the flywheel while the engine is running. If you hear something that sounds like a little mechanic inside with a hammer then, you might have a problem.

Also, if it hasn’t been done change the fuel filter. For the ’06 Jetta there is an “Early” and a “Late” model filter.

As for parts, the first place I look is IDParts. They have given me great service and they also have a lot of information.
Welcome to the group.
Steve.

 

[CleverUserName]

Frank06 one of the vendors on here makes an upgraded camshaft and lifter kit for the BRM. The components are supposedly more robust and durable than the OE materials. After replacement it is imperative to use 5w40 to preserve the cam as long as possible.

If you need to replace the flywheel, the G60 solid flywheel and VR6 clutch kit are really nice. It’s a very light clutch with some mild chatter at idle. The other option is the LUK Repset DMF/clutch kit. People like them because they hold more power than OE and are cheap, however I was not impressed with the Repset and prefer the G60/VR6 kit.

 

[DillyG15]

Do you guys think the timing belt and water pump were replaced from that picture?

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

You really can't tell much about a timing belt and components by visual inspection, except to see if something's obviously wrong. Timing belt interval on this car was originally 100K miles, but was reduced to 80K miles by VW years ago. If you assume it was changed at 80K miles, and you also assume that the car was driven about 9-10K/year since new (probably more when it was newer), then the belt may have been in there for over 6 years. That's approaching the end of its service life for time, if not miles. Unless you have proof it was done and when, I'd change it out. Depending on where you are in CT I may be able to steer you towards a good repair shop. There are some great ones, including the one that takes care or my TDIs, in MA. Whomever does the belt can inspect and replace the cam if needed too. It saves on work to do them at the same time.

 

[DillyG15]

Depending on where you are in CT I may be able to steer you towards a good repair shop. There are some great ones, including the one that takes care or my TDIs, in MA. Whomever does the belt can inspect and replace the cam if needed too. It saves on work to do them at the same time.

I would be interested in a good shop. I’m in Norwich, CT

 

[CleverUserName]

Probably should do any top end seals for the valves or injectors while the VC is off for the camshaft replacemen in addition to cleaning the carbon out of the intake manifold. If the clutch is due also consider the Rear Main seal and fresh transmission fluid. The Redline MTLV and superlight shockproof 50/50 blend will smooth out any notchiness in the shifting.


After you spend another $5k+ to get it squared away it should provide you many years of useful service after the VW flaws are addressed and deferred maintenance is completed.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Neither are that close, but I'd go to Schnell Snail performance in Wareham, MA, or 413 Auto which is in the other direction in Westfield, MA. Both are on the trusted mechanic's list here: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/trusted-tdi-mechanics-by-state.130044/

I use Kraftwerke in Walpole MA. Chris Hill (mrchill here) almost always has one of my cars there. Sometimes two, which starts to make me nervous.

 

[DillyG15]

Whomever does the belt can inspect and replace the cam if needed too. It saves on work to do them at the same time.

What do you think this would typically cost for the timing and cam repair. I assume some other stuff added in too like water pump, seals, etc...

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Complete timing belt and camshaft replacement kits will total about $725 for parts, and my guess is you're looking at $400-500 in labor to do both, although shop prices will vary. But don't assume you need a cam until you get it inspected. And so you know, Clutch kit will cost $250-$400 depending on which one you choose, labor is about $500 (that's a guess). One thing I will mention is if you plan to have the car tuned, the LUK 170-050 kit may not be strong enough. BRMs respond really well to tuning.

 

[Rx7145]

I would definitely look at the cam. The TB looks recent to me.

 

[dtrvler]

That little pointer on the TB tensioner should be in the notch. The belt is not properly tensioned. That could mean it was never properly tensioned, or that the belt has been on there for a long time and stretched slightly. I always just do a new belt on purchases with unknown or untrusted service history

http://imgur.com/tfu0nlc

Some guys might say "close enough"
But Right is right. Wrong is not

 

[DillyG15]

So i have done some research about the pointer on the tensioner and im getting opinions on both sides. I got this quote from a thread on here but i can see how the pointer would move when the belt stretches. Probably need a new one.

I did my second timing belt change since owning my BRM and I can tell you I had the same predicament after the first belt change. The pointer was between the notch but after turning 2 revolutions from the crankshaft bolt and driving the car, It wasn't there any more.

I worried about for a while then let it be after reading somewhere the pointer only stays in the notch during the initial setup.

With that said, I drove my car for 175,000km on the replacement timing belt and replaced the belt,tensioner,water pump and roller again last week with the same result. The pointer was no longer in the notch after 2 full revolutions of the crankshaft.

Drive more, worry less

 

[dtrvler]

I can tell you that i put it past the notch for initial setup. Then it settles in the notch after a few revs. You know, some crank sprocket are NOT round. So the pointer will float around some depending on the rotational position of the ellipictaI sprocket on those cars. I would also say that anywhere from where yours is to same distance past the notch would probably be ok and not cause a problem. I was nitpicking

Ol'Rattler discusses the two different pulleys here:

2006 1.9 TDI BRM Timing Tool ?

The Bentley shows two different crank lock tools for the BRM engine. The parts gives a number for the pully 038 105 263 H But I can not seem to find if this is considered a " Round Tooth " or the " Oval Tooth Pulley. Its for this reason the Bentley says use appropriate tool either T 10050...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[dtrvler]

You know, occams razor may apply here. There is a notch. There is a pointer. The pointer might should actually be in the notch. What is happening is that the belt is seating onto the pulleys and sprockets during the first revolutions.

 

[dtrvler]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAWegQIBxAC&usg=AOvVaw1pi8LfuPRFwx231f4MdChB

[/URL]

 

[dtrvler]

http://imgur.com/FVfwVA6

http://imgur.com/9bwRjrg

 

[relumalutan]

That little pointer on the TB tensioner should be in the notch. The belt is not properly tensioned. That could mean it was never properly tensioned, or that the belt has been on there for a long time and stretched slightly. I always just do a new belt on purchases with unknown or untrusted service history

http://imgur.com/tfu0nlc

Some guys might say "close enough"
But Right is right. Wrong is not

That's exactly what I have also noticed, that it's not properly tensioned.

 

[Psilovybin]

Hello I’m a new member here and have never owned a tdi or a diesel for the record.

Changing the Trans mount and the Right pass. mount is not a very hard task to do and it doesn't cost a lot of money. I found that in the two 2006 TDI's (One I have and one a friend has) the trans mount was broke on both of them (248k miles and 341k miles respectively). You say you have a manual trans so here's the mounts I got from Amazon and they are a perfect fit. The right passenger side mount is a pain to get to because you have to pull the turbo intake hose off, coolant reservoir pulled to the side and also the fuel filter cannister has to be moved out of the way but once they are, you have full access to the mount. put a block of wood on a jack under each side you plan on working on and adjust jack accordingly having the jack manage the weight when the mount would otherwise.

Right side Passenger engine mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PQEP2E
Manual transmission Mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQS7OPY

The auto transmission mount has 3 holes for the transmission side. Manual only has 2 holes.

 

[Psilovybin]

And spend the $200 for the Ross Tech VCDS HEX V2. it is absolutely worth it.