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Dont know for sure, but I think you would have to really screw up to get all four injectors to not work at all. My bet is electrical so check the wiring.

Sorry, I only write in Scribble, I can't read it.

I would use a scanner and look at reported coolant temp before starting. Disregard what the gauge tells you because it wont tell you what the engine side of the ECU is seeing. Next would be to shut it down and clamp both fuel lines between the tank and the filter. when you go out to start it...

So do we assume this got your car started?

14.1 volts? That is what I would expect while the engine is running. Have the battery load tested. Not tested with the little impedence readers the battery sellers use. Heck, just put your meter on the battery and read it as you try to start the engine. I'm betting it drops below 8 volts...

Not a challenge, but I pulled into a parking spot and noticed this. Some people say I notice too much.

Is the fuel dribbling out, or squirting out? I may have missed your answer earlier.

It's not just kids today. It's all kids through all time.

"Tons of fuel squirting out" I don't care about the flow here so much as the pressure. how far up is it squirting?

At least they didn't tell you that there was a declining sinusidal wave causing a warble in the turbo encabulator. That would be bad.

Are saying that the radiator has a leak and diesel is pouring out of the radiator?

I wonder if this is similar to the "long start when hot" software issue with early AHL cars?

Maybe Gord knows what voltages to expect on the pins when cranking? In order for him to test the pump, he has to be able to supply it correctly, so I would think he knows. Did you check fuse 34? Maybe change the fuel filter because everyone else does that with a no start, thereby introducing...

Is the transmission in neutral?

"Mongo like Sheriff Bart". The gasket isn't there just to replace the gasket. It's there for when the intake manifd is removed to be cleaned. Does your intake manifold need to be cleaned is the quest you need to know.

The purpose of the headlight is to put a high load on the circuit which a DVOM won't do. This is the proper way to test the integrity of the circuit, but in all honesty, I don't know if I have read of any problems with that circuit, so a DVOM is probably sufficient.

Find a sealed beam headlight. Disconnect the connector to the left front pump. Jump wires from the big wires on the ends of the connector to to light. Turn key on. Does the light come on brightly? If yes, install a new pump. If not troubleshooting the wireing. The reason for the headlight is...

Use a 5W40 oil and a German filter. Use your pocketbook to decide which one. The reason people won't suggest which one do s because there are so many good options, you may as well ask "which is the best kind of music?" Everyone will have different opinions and they are all convinced they are right.

So it wasn't completely bled?