What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Mozambiquer]

" It sounds like it has good compression, and pops off, but dies immediately."

Could be an immobilizer issue.

That is probable, and quite possible. Currently I'm unable to access the ECM in vcds, last night I spent some time checking powers and grounds to the ecm. They were all good, but still no dice. Anybody have a good pinout of the 2003 ALH ECM? I had one on prodemand, but it didn't tell me the pin numbers with the diagram, and the numbers don't appear to be on the plugs. I did some searching, but couldn't find anything, and I don't have a Bentley for the a4 chassis, currently only have for the A3 and B5...

 

[turbodieseldyke]

I'm the opposite on leather vs cloth. I find it easier to clean up the leather (at least the way I get them dirty) than the cloth that inevitably get dirty and stained. Quick wipe and most everything comes right off leather.

Exactly. All that nasty summer sweat on the leather or vinyl... just where do think it goes when they sit in a cloth seat? I've always used seat covers on cloth seats.

 

[CableJockey]

Anybody have a good pinout of the 2003 ALH ECM

Try these:

 

[wonneber]

Decided to get them done after rotating my new tires for the first time over the weekend. Rears now on the front - very very slight vibration at 75 - mostly felt from the armrest. If I didn't feel it in the steering wheel (hands off) I wouldn't think I had an imbalance. The one tire originally had 0.5 ounces of weight in the middle of the wheel - the original guy that balanced it had issues with that wheel so he 'changed the balancing method'. Essentially statically balanced it. Tire was on the rear - felt fine.

Maybe take the tire and rim to a place that has the spin balancer that can check if the rim is bent.
Hunter balancers have this.
Also measure road force.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Maybe take the tire and rim to a place that has the spin balancer that can check if the rim is bent.
Hunter balancers have this.
Also measure road force.

Thanks for the tip - the shop I used though has the Hunter road force balancers only so that's what they used. They actually let me into the bay, right up to the balancer to watch it spin. I looked like it the rim was straight - the balancer also didn't complain. Also they said the road force was low, so it isn't due to the tire not being on the rim correctly (do I trust that?).

The car feels great now though, so I'm not going to worry about it. That said, when I bought these tires, I accidentally bought 2 extra (they were on sale - essentially half off). One I used to replace the spare (it's the original, 20 years old, so figured it should be replaced). The other is in my shed as a spare. If the balance starts getting weird again, or the weights go way up, I'll swap out with the spare or the shed tire.

 

[hey_allen]

I just replaced the AC compressor and drier on my car, after the clutch bearing was making warning noises, and then the shaft splines stripped before the nut came loose.

The vacuum gauge kept indicating a relatively high leak any time the pump valve was turned off, but pressure testing it with nitrogen didn't show anything noteworthy, nor did testing with trace amounts of r-134a and the leak detector.
Apparently the gauge was flaky, and was acting overly sensitive, as switching to a different micron gauge didn't indicate as high a peak vacuum level, but also nearly no drop in vacuum when the pump was disconnected.

After charging the system with the recovered 134 and a bit to make up for losses, the vents blow cold air again.

 

[MukGyver]

Today looking at idparts TB kit $204 with Liten tensioner.. They charge $15 extra for the continental belt instead of gates. Is it any better than gates. The 15 means nothing. It matters if one belt is actually better.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Belts are both excellent quality, tensioners are both Litens, rollers are from the same or similar makers. Really it's a matter of brand preference, in my opinion.

 

[MukGyver]

Thanks indigo, I've always chosen Gates in the past. Hopefully they still make them good as ever.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I usually use Gates, too. They're OE supplier to VW for timing belts for these cars. That's good enough for me.

 

[PakProtector]

Everytime that job rolls around, I wish there was a belt $60 better than either of Conti or Gates. I think I have gone Conti cause it costs more and hope the money went somewhere other than just out ov my wallet.... LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[JDSwan87]

Belts are both excellent quality, tensioners are both Litens, rollers are from the same or similar makers. Really it's a matter of brand preference, in my opinion.

Add this to why IDPARTS gets my business. I mean, honestly, not many parts sellers really know their product down to that level and will relay that information to their customer. Most would likely say "yeah, it's a little better that's why it costs more."

Thanks Peter!

 

[PakProtector]

Changed the oil in the '04. Got all ready to install an M3 screw for an IC drain, and pulled the covers off to access. Found I had already done it( long enough I had forgotten...LOL ). Pulled it and found a tsp or two oil draining out. Was quite glad I did not get a gusher. So I am going to conclude the seals in the KP39 are still good, and I don't have to worry about a replacement right now. Now contemplating a catch can.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Add this to why IDPARTS gets my business. I mean, honestly, not many parts sellers really know their product down to that level and will relay that information to their customer. Most would likely say "yeah, it's a little better that's why it costs more."

Thanks Peter!

Thanks for the kind words.

 

[MukGyver]

I'd like to get more information about a belt when I buy it like what it's reinforced with etc. I seem to get more information when I buy a t-shirt.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Getting ready to do a head gasket. Engine is grimy so I decided to pressure wash it. Used engine degreaser, let it soak for 10 mins, sprayed off, repeated it one more time, then went and drove it on the freeway to get all the water to dry off from all the nooks and crannies.

Came home, popped the hood and was surprised to find inject #2 is all wet around the base, flowing down to where the headgasket protrudes. Uggh!

Searching this forum, looks like my injector is leaking around the injector and the nut. The one guy that had this problem, it was on a rebuilt set of injectors. Has anyone had this happen on factory original injectors? Can anyone also confirm that this much diesel is NOT due to a leaking copper washer? (I would think any diesel injected into the cylinder should ignite, not blow back out around the injector base. )

Edit: NVM - drove to work this morning, popped the hood and it's dry there. So it's not an actual diesel leak at the injector but more likely a combustion leak and the gap around the injector filled up with slime/greese/engine degreaser during my cleaning and then was 'blown' out by the combustion leak. When I do the head gasket, I'll change the copper seal on this injector.

 

[csstevej]

Finally found a hood in great shape for my DD to replace the pretzel one after clocking a deer. Damn things are had to find for golf’s.....I suggest if you’ve got a spare .....hold onto it.....found a ton of Jetta ones just not golf ones.....

 

[Mozambiquer]

Yesterday I got my 03 parts car running with an immo deleted ECM, still no dice on connecting to vcds, must be in the wires from the ECM to the obd port. I drove it around the shop, no blow by, good oil pressure, etc. Boost was low, but I think that may be because the ECM I had was a rc4+ tuned for a 3 bar map, also the intercooler doesn't look the greatest. I guess I'm going to put it up for sale, now that I have the parts off of it that I need.

 

[sriracha]

I installed a brand new perforated leather A3 5-Speed shift knob in my wagon. The A3 leather boot was meant for a smaller trim ring, so I swapped out the Audi leather boot with a brand new OEM black real-leather VW shift boot, to fit the larger VW trim ring. I like that the leather is real and not laminated to fabric on the inside. The A3 knob has real-aluminum trim, which is cold to the touch in the morning. Also, the shift knob is larger diameter than the previous shift knob. The A3 shift knob mounts exactly the same as the MK4 shift knob.

 

[sriracha]

I pulled this Audi TT armrest from the Pick-n-Pull, real aluminum and real leather. I think I can make this work in the MK4:

 

[Zak99b5]

I pulled this Audi TT armrest from the Pick-n-Pull, real aluminum and real leather. I think I can make this work in the MK4:

WHat are you doing with the one you pull out?? My car doesn't have an armrest.....

 

[sriracha]

WHat are you doing with the one you pull out?? My car doesn't have an armrest.....

My wagon doesn't have an armrest either. This TT armrest looks a lot more minimal than the MK4 armrest and I like the brushed aluminum.

 

[RexNICO]

I pulled this Audi TT armrest from the Pick-n-Pull, real aluminum and real leather. I think I can make this work in the MK4:

If not, let me know, I have a TT that could use an armrest

Also, did it have any other special bits/pieces?

 

[SilverGhost]

I pulled this Audi TT armrest from the Pick-n-Pull, real aluminum and real leather. I think I can make this work in the MK4:

At a glance it looks like the base has the same bolt pattern as the aluminum base for a MkIV arm rest. Now, real question is how the console trim will work where this sticks through it?

Jason

 

[TdiRN]

On Monday I replaced the PS pump which finally died, turns out the leak was from only 1 crush washer being in place. Also replaced the alternator while I was in there to hopefully fix the battery drain issue.

 

[csstevej]

Yesterday finally removed my damaged hood and installed the replacement one.

 

[hey_allen]

I saw my driver's side mirror flopping around, and after a quick search, lifted the mirror glass out of the frame. The only thing holding it in place was a tiny bit of the adhesive still bonded along the top edge, the rest of the mirror having popped free of the adhesive.

A bit of cleaning, and a $6 roll of Gorilla mounting tape, and the mirror is back in place and no longer wobbling in the wind.

 

[MukGyver]

I saw my driver's side mirror flopping around, and after a quick search, lifted the mirror glass out of the frame. The only thing holding it in place was a tiny bit of the adhesive still bonded along the top edge, the rest of the mirror having popped free of the adhesive.
A bit of cleaning, and a $6 roll of Gorilla mounting tape, and the mirror is back in place and no longer wobbling in the wind.

Not that I would EVER doubt the strength of Gorilla glue ,

but a flexible 2-part epoxy might have been a bit more reliable for the long run.

 

[hey_allen]

Not that I would EVER doubt the strength of Gorilla glue ,

but a flexible 2-part epoxy might have been a bit more reliable for the long run.

I'd actually never heard of flexible epoxy before, so didn't think that direction.

If I didn't find it while away from home, I might have considered other options, but the clear double sided mounting tape was available, and seems like it'll be significantly overkill in strength, as well as being completely out of sight behind the mirror glass.

 

[KrashDH]

Not that I would EVER doubt the strength of Gorilla glue ,

but a flexible 2-part epoxy might have been a bit more reliable for the long run.

Some of that 3M double sided tape works really well...once you stick that stuff to something, whatever you stick it to and stick on it isn't coming off...ever. Not without a fight at least.