The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

Matt-98AHU said:

I suppose the most important thing when doing this in the future is yes, do use the 11 mm cam plate along with the head, plunger, collar etc.

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Seems like sound advice. I went as far as installing a 11mm pump on my car, but it leaked and never fully started. It would run in 1-2 second intervals.

Installed a 2nd 11mm pump and no start, at all. Made a jumper harness and installed the stock pump and the car fired right up.

Need to reseal the first pump and give it another go.

Personally, I think timing the car when running is a bit easier, but maybe I'm just used to the old way.

-Todd

Matt-98AHU said:

Who's gonna start scouring for used 11 mm pumps with bad QAs?? Lol

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Matt,
It's not fair that your first post in a long time (B4 related) is about the IPs and some detailed, envied specifics I'm bookmarking this too...

Details provided by LanduytG

DE110 vs DE143 camplate profiles:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=561243#post561243

inlined image:


10 mm profile in Excel data that apparently has been uploaded:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=2517&title=10mm-cam-profile&cat=503

ToddA1 said:

Seems like sound advice. I went as far as installing a 11mm pump on my car, but it leaked and never fully started. It would run in 1-2 second intervals.
Installed a 2nd 11mm pump and no start, at all. Made a jumper harness and installed the stock pump and the car fired right up.
Need to reseal the first pump and give it another go.
Personally, I think timing the car when running is a bit easier, but maybe I'm just used to the old way.
-Todd

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For the most part, I like timing it the old way too. It's a bit of a pain to get to the two bolts behind the pulley compared to just loosening 3 bolts on the sprocket ala ALH, BUT, once it's all loosened, you can adjust it with the car running, dial it in perfect, lock the one easy to tighten bolt down. Shut the car down and rotate the engine over to line up the pulley holes to tighten down the rest of the bolts, good to go. No guess and check like the ALH style setup, but the guess and check on the ALH isn't hard to do, either... 3 bolts and they're easy to get to at least.

I do like my more stealth 11 mm upgrade, though. And now that I've already done measurements and mostly know what I'm looking for, I could absolutely swap a pump head and cam plate on the vehicle faster than removing the pump and machining the bracket, backing plate etc to fit the whole ALH pump along with de-pinning the car harness side connectors and swapping the wires into a 10 pin ALH connector shell...

No one would know it's actually an 11 mm except you!

Digital Corpus said:

Details provided by LanduytG

DE110 vs DE143 camplate profiles:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=561243#post561243

inlined image:

10 mm profile in Excel data that apparently has been uploaded:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=2517&title=10mm-cam-profile&cat=503

Click to expand...

Nice find! Not far off my measurements, either. Looks like he's got 0.121" vs 0.128 or so max lift, where I measured about the same for the 10 mm but more like 0.131" on the 11 mm. My dial indicator is Chinese afterall... so that might have something to do with it. Thanks Grainger.

So yeah, basically swap the cam plate, pump head and plunger assy. along with the washer in the back of the plunger that came out of the 11 mm, swap it into an AHU pump. Rotate engine over by hand with the triangle plug removed, just make sure max movement of the plunger doesn't exceed about the bottom of the chamfer in the bore. If it looks good, put the plug back in, QA back on, re-prime and start the car, check and adjust timing and QA, and you're on your merry way!

Matt-98AHU said:

Nice find! Not far off my measurements, either. Looks like he's got 0.121" vs 0.128 or so max lift, where I measured about the same for the 10 mm but more like 0.131" on the 11 mm. My dial indicator is Chinese afterall... so that might have something to do with it. Thanks Grainger.
So yeah, basically swap the cam plate, pump head and plunger assy. along with the washer in the back of the plunger that came out of the 11 mm, swap it into an AHU pump. Rotate engine over by hand with the triangle plug removed, just make sure max movement of the plunger doesn't exceed about the bottom of the chamfer in the bore. If it looks good, put the plug back in, QA back on, re-prime and start the car, check and adjust timing and QA, and you're on your merry way!

Click to expand...

Converting to metric puts you at ~3.07 mm. About a month ago, this popped up without much commentary:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=472359

They list the DE110, the 10 mm, @ 3.1 mm max lift and the DE143, the 11 mm, @ 3.3 mm, aka 0.1299" so actually I'll stick with your readings. 6 other partial profiles are shown.

I'm contemplating putting a Iveco 12 mm head, springs, and plunger, but w/ the DE110 cam plate into a 10 mm shell, but with an ALH pulley/flywheel. But first, I need a new clutch disk.

For what it is worth dept.

I have a 1Z pump rebuilt by Giles at Performance Diesel to 11 mm specifications. Got it in Sept 2015 from Giles. Don't know exactly what he did to it. But suspect exactly what you just documented.

Matt, this method is sure easier than adapting an 11 mm ALH pump to fit on the 1Z engine.

Interesting to see you comment about how fast the engine starts with the 11 mm pump. My wagon was always slow to start until it got the 11 mm pump installed. Now it seems to start just as fast as I can turn the key.

Glad to see you with another B4!

Nothing as fancy or desirable as an 11mm pump, just basic maintenance: Taking advantage of the warm weather, removed the plastic coolant flange & installed the theChoochlyman's billet flange that I had in the spare parts bin, cleaned the engine to monitor for any new oil or coolant leaks. Nada. Very pleasant driving yesterday evening & today without worrying. The next warm weather break I am going to get that Fluidampr out of the spare parts bin & installed. Steve, thanks for the lead & write up on that.

Nothing exciting.... replaced a HL bulb. Luckily, it was on the right side, so I didn't need to pull the battery.

-Todd

Replaced a front strut on our other B4 and set the camber to ~0.4° passenger's side and ~0.6° driver's side. Bump stops, strut bearings, and boots replaced. Mounts were fine. Need to pull my trans and swap the clutch today if I don't have a brother being a pain about work spaces...

Sorry DC, you can't change having a brother.

True that...

I am due for inner CV joints, RT/pass side. Currently, what is the best source & make available. My searches are showing dated results & have read the caveat about letting go of the original. Thanks in advance.

I haven't used parts store axles in over a decade, but I never had an issue with them. Reading the contrary, now.

If they can't be swapped side to side, stick with GKN Löbro. There was a vendor selling new axles, but don't know if he could get the ones we need.

-Todd

Try http://www.cascadegerman.com/product/321498103c/

Tony

Bob S. said:

I am due for inner CV joints, RT/pass side. Currently, what is the best source & make available. My searches are showing dated results & have read the caveat about letting go of the original. Thanks in advance.

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We have complete B4 GKN axles. Left is in stock, right is about two months out. These aren't easy to get! We don't show CV joints, but I might be able to locate those. Part number crosses on these are tricky. Often we find the joint, but it doesn't have the correct boot.

I've got a pair of axles I took off when I did 5 lug swap if your interested? They were working just fine and are in good condition.

My DD, a 1997 Passat started leaking G12 at the water pump in early January, so I parked it outside since it was too cold for repairs, and put my back up plan, yet another 1997 Passat into service, shown here:



With parts, tools, laptop computer and even unseasonably warm weather all in place for my 3 day President's weekend, I got my DD into the garage and did my timing belt and water pump replacement. This was my fourth timing belt R&R and was my second water pump R&R, so I wasn't unfamiliar with the challenge. I had Metalnerd tools (camshaft setting bar, crank lock bracket, injection pump locking pin and the sprocket counter-holding double bar tool) to get the job done.

I used a couple of YouTube videos from Robinsonsauto for the timing belt removal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mQ-tA-fSQs

and the timing belt installation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy5ugRg927U

Also, I followed the myturbodiesel procedure for the water pump R&R:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/water-pump-replacement-for-mk3-tdi-jetta-and-passat-1z-ahu-engine/

I did order and use the metal/rubber gasket, P/N:026121041P, instead of the paper gasket. Of course, it cost more but made the water pump mount easier since I didn't have to deal with gasket cement while installing 8 bolts. The new water pump installed:



The sprocket counter-hold tool, used on the camshaft sprocket, was also useful for the intermediate shaft pulley:




I would advise buying additional intermediate shaft woodruff keys, P/N: N0127082, before you do this job; these keys vanish into thin air. A large cardboard piece on the ground when you are trying to reinstall the intermediate shaft pulley will make a noise when the pulley key fails to line up and hits the ground. If the key doesn't hit the cardboard, it is hidden on the engine block or elsewhere. It may never be found:

I also used a clothespin to help keep the new timing belt in place on the crankshaft sprocket:




And, I even used a binder clip to hold the timing belt on the injection pump sprocket:



Thanks again to robinsonsauto for uploading the YouTube videos and to the myturbodiesel web site. Here's my repaired DD back in service in the parking lot at work:

Thanks for the tips there, I'm about to do my timing belt and water pump in about two weekends. Also got the upgraded gasket.

Restoring Engine Bay

Completely removing 1Z engine with 262k miles. I purchased the car from an Older gentleman who purchased it at 40K miles and has ran it on AMS Oil for 220k miles. Going to replace most components around engine and hoses. New Turbo, Timing Belts Kit, Rack Pinion, and so forth. I have two Remanned Fuel pumps in my possession. Many other things being done to restore the car. Car is in Pristine condition. But I am going through everything as I go. I have suspicion that the Waste gate may be stuck open, due to low power. I have eliminated it ECU vacuum line and N75. I have a lot of experience in this area. Going to repaint with Stock Storm Grey and have plans to replace stock cloth seats with Marine Vinyl.
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not sure how to post pics

nh nam vet said:

I did order and use the metal/rubber gasket, P/N:026121041P, instead of the paper gasket.

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the metal gasket is smart to use. i forgot i dont think i costs much.

iluvmydiesels said:

the metal gasket is smart to use. i forgot i dont think i costs much.

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IIRC, $8-$10. The paper gasket is permeable to water, so the aluminum tends to corrode at the interface between the water pump and the pump hosing. Since I bought the Passat, I've always used the metal/rubber gasket and had no issues.

Tony

Helped check the timing on a friend's ALH Bettle yesterday after he did a TB change. I think it needs the intake cleaned thoroughly though, because it has over 200k miles and has never been looked at.

I drove it and the power was really pitiful. I let him hop in my B4 for a spin, and he was amazed at how much power it has. I think he'll be chipping it soon.

New clutch in and it holds fine. Less force for the pedal is required so my "rebound" issue is worse, but that's surprised.

I did *not* grease the sleeve/cover for the throw out bearing's travel. If this why I've had issues? Quite literally on any decently-faster-than-grandma's-pace right and turn will result in my pumping the clutch pedal a couple of times before it regains full travel and also along depressing the pressure plate itself.

Digital Corpus said:

Quite literally on any decently-faster-than-grandma's-pace right and turn will result in my pumping the clutch pedal a couple of times before it regains full travel and also along depressing the pressure plate itself.

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That sounds like a clutch master or clutch slave issue to me. Fluid is leaking past the seals in one or the other on depression, causing you to have to pump the pedal a few times in order to equalize the system again.

Both have been replaced and I've had 3 different fluids in there since the original occurrence of the problem.

Digital Corpus said:

Both have been replaced and I've had 3 different fluids in there since the original occurrence of the problem.

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Maybe you managed to get one bad out of the box? I've had bad master cylinders right out of the box in the past.

What all has been replaced?

Slave cylinder twice and master cylinder once. I've taken apart the master cylinder with nothing appearing defected and comparing to a knowing working one.

I agree, it sounds like the master to me as well. But if you are certain it's not, change the master feed line. If it doesn't fit properly it can suck air and create the issue you're having since it'll suck in the air rather than the fluid.

Even if I don't have to shift to have the phenomenon happen? Whether I have the clutch depressed or not, in gear or neutral, it'll happen. The hose is dry, it Ian original so I suppose it can be the culprit. Want to go clear to aid future issues. Anyone have any suggestions from McMaster's selections? I'd rather start there than drop $150 on a part without a garanteed fix.