ALH 1.9L- couple timing belt questions.

Ok, i have a couple questions about changing the timing belt on my 2001 Vw Jetta 1.9L ALH. I've done timing chains and belts jobs in the past on SOHC cam gas jobs, i've done these jobs without any special tools. I am wondering how crucial it is to have the timing belt tool kit seen on this site- http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=281. If it is a must have kit, is there a vendor that offers a cheaper less expensive kit with the same quality tools (i'm not cheap i just don't change timing belts everyweek) . So this is how i'm going to go about doing the timing belt job.
1. Take valve cover off.
2. Timing belt cover off.
3. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC.
4. Ensure the timing marks are all lined up.
5. Take Timing Belt Off.
6. Change all necessary components water pump stretch bolts etc.
7. Put new timing belt on ensuring everything is locked in place(cam etc).

This is just a basic summary of how i'm going to go about doing this, i want to keep the summary simple. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance, Cory.

The cam to crank alignment is crucial on these cars, and not tolerant to slight misalignments.

there are three tools crucial to the job.

The cam lock- You need to have the cam at tdc to do this job properly. Without the cam lock tool there is no reliable way to do this.

-The tensioner wrench. Very difficult to set the timing belt tension without it.

-The Cam counterhold tool. Very hard to remove the cam bolt without it.

The pump alignment pin can be subbed with a 6mm allen wrench, and you can hold the crank via the flywheel teeth in the bellhousing.

afterward, to set the pump timing properly, you will need to get your hands on VCDS.

The above assumes you replace all the rollers and tensioner, as well as all torque-to-yield bolts.

Post up any questions, but make sure you have the right tools to do the job.

Do not mark the belt and align the new belt to the marks. Far too many ALH's have been destroyed that way

Metalnerd makes excellent tools, and you can't go wrong with them.

I am a bit frugal, and made my tools (cam lock, tensioner wrench, cam holding wrench) myself for a total of 1 hours time and about $20 total (and some welding).

Nice info windex!

If you narrowed down your location a tiny bit, you may find that there's someone close by who can loan or rent you the lockdown tools... (added to Windex' list would be a cam sprocket puller...)

The Metalnerd tools are available in Canada from http://www.roselandtech.ca/VWPartsA4.htm as well as a complete ALH engine timing belt kit at a decent price. Make sure you replace ALL the components in the belt pathway (3 idlers, belt(s), tensioner, water pump, at least 5 so-called "stretch" bolts - possibly 8 in your case) and be sure to use 2003 model year parts...

Here's the procedure usually recommended: http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf and more info is found at http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/a4_how_to_index.htm

Good luck,

Yuri


PS: if you want to make your own tools, see http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=148798

PPS: also extremely useful is Oldpoopie's checkoff list: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2...ZjFkN2FlNjZiZjA0&sort=name&layout=list&num=50

Check list

Read through the procedure here:
http://pics2.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

Note that the cam has to be precisely located with the cam lock plate and must be kept in place (along with the IP) while the belt is being tensioned. In order for tension to be applied properly, the cam and IP pulleys have to be free to rotate while adjusting the tensioner. Once tension is set, and the flywheel mark is verified, you remove the lock tools and torque down the cam pulley and IP pulley.

Some members here rent out their timing belt tool sets. Or you could always buy them, use them, and then re-sell them here for ~$20-40 off retail.

This is a job that no step can be skipped or worked around. Hundreds, probably many thousands of TDI engines have been damaged or sent to an early grave from mechanics who change the belt just like you are proposing. Do it once and do it right. If you don't, you'll be removing the head and having it rebuilt.

the older TD engines it was a little easire to make your own tools i..e the cam lock tool did not need to be recessed but was relatively straight across from what I remember.

as mentioned above I am also a little frugal when it comes to purchasing VW specific tools and made my own for the ALH timing belt. I eventually broke down and bought the MetalNerd kit. and will admit it is very useful.

Specifically:
1) the Cam locking tool - but make sure that you get the one that bolts into the valve cover threads as the other one though will work does NOT bolt in and slides out easily enough...

2) Cam Sprocket puller - this is very usefull and is generic enough that it will work for tight clearance situations in general and many of these cam sprockets can be a little tough to come off this tool works great!

3) Cam sprocket counter hold lock tool - this tool locks the Cam sprocket so that you can torque the bolt off or on - again very useful however I had made my own and it is very similar to the Green one (without the green paint)

4) tensioner tightening tool - this is a very usefull tool - and though I had made my own with a set of spring clip removers - this is a nice low clearance tool that works great. and even has the wrench for the tensioner nut tied right to it....

the last items didnt score so high IMO...
5) IP alignment tool - fair enough it works great - very easy to replicate this tool

6) crank shaft locking tool - crap... this tool works to visually line everything up - but slips all over the place as soon as you try to tension the belt I found... the original tool that I had built in about an hr worth of my time locks the crankshaft in such a way that you can leave it one to tension the belt and the supplied tool moves without even any torque on it.... be prepared to re-check your flywheel alignment a dozen times if using this tool...

I think the kit came with a tiny 5mm allen key socket as well which you can obviously substitute with something else...

the above is just my rendition and a small suggestion for your procedure is as follows:

1. Take valve cover off.
2. Timing belt cover off.
3. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC. (I usually mark the sprockets IP with whiteout so I can see it easily - and the fly wheel location at least on either side of the flywheel mark so it is easily visible if not already)
4. Ensure the timing marks are all lined up.
5. lock the cam shaft
6. lock the IP
7. loosen tensioner
8. remove cam sprocket
9. Take Timing Belt Off.
10. continue with the replacement parts...

and as posted above... narrow down your location you might have someone close by which you can borrow these items from.

rhader said:

5. lock the cam shaft
6. lock the IP
7. loosen tensioner
8. remove cam sprocket

Click to expand...

Careful there for Newbies: if the camshaft's locked down, remove the locking bar when loosening or tightening the camshaft sprocket bolt... otherwise you risk breaking off the end of the camshaft...

Yuri

^

I live in northern Ontario, i'm not sure if there are many tdi club members in my area.

ymz said:

Careful there for Newbies: if the camshaft's locked down, remove the locking bar when loosening or tightening the camshaft sprocket bolt... otherwise you risk breaking off the end of the camshaft...

Yuri

Click to expand...

Yes.
There should be no "summary" or short version. All the steps are there for a reason. Read, reread and fully understand the full How To that was linked above. When I was doing the head and TB replacement it worked slick to download it on the laptop and have it on the workbench while the job was in progress.
I got by w/o the crank lock tool and had a puller that worked on the cam sprocket, but if I did it often I would get the "real" one. You could substitute many things for the IP lock pin, but the set I borrowed had that.

I was wondering if anyone with tools to do a timing belt on a 1.9 tdi jetta close to Colorado Springs would be willing to let me use or rent the specialty tools?


Rob


ps thanks for a great forum with lost of resources.

That would be cool! I will be in touch i am hoping in about 2 month to work on it. Thanks i will be in touch.

Rob

vwjettatdi_2001 said:

... is there a vendor that offers a cheaper less expensive kit with the same quality tools...

Click to expand...

Well, Cory, in a word: NO.

There is a mantra in engineering (well maybe not well enough known to be an actual mantra, but it should be): "Strong, light, cheap: pick two."

You should know that in this economy, where market entry is not completely restricted and the desires of others to make a buck is allowed, competition will keep someone from making an abhorrent amount money on something. But that desire to make a living also results in choices to you, usually in varying quality.

So, if you really want quality tools, then you'll pretty much need to pay the going price. If you don't use them often, you can rent them out as some people do, or maybe arrange to rent someone else's tools. That also can be done.

Cheers,

PH

True, but I think he probably found that out (hopefully) as that thread was about 2 years old. Not sure how/why it got going again.