silverbox
Veteran Member
Peter I hope you report back with more time on the FSD's.
I also have a wagon and FSD's since november, love the ride.
I also have a wagon and FSD's since november, love the ride.
I am more than curious on that...I really wanna know how they behave under those conditions.IndigoBlueWagon said:I want to try a track day with the FSDs to see how they perform.
A most excellent idea!GoFaster said:Let's try sticky-ing this again.
Piranha said:TT 19mm front anti roll bar, stock rear
TT front knuckles
Powerflex bushes all round (the front wishbone rear bush iss too soft and moves too much.
Chassis has been reinforced with strut bars, reinforced subframe
along with engine modifications to increase power.
My findings are as follows:
Understeer is not so pronounced.
you can oversteer the car on purposley and by mnistake, but i do not see it to be so snappy, although it can catch you by surprise.
enticing the car to drift has become much easier albeit it has to be done at higher speed.
GoFaster said:OF COURSE disconnecting the front antiroll bar is going to cause more body roll. That's not the point; the thinking is that it will increase grip on irregular surfaces by allowing more "independent" motion of the suspension, and it will transfer the roll stiffness balance to the rear. It should increase the geometry-induced "feel" of understeer when approaching the cornering limits. I have not tried this myself; I did the usual thing of putting on a stiffer rear bar ...
Doc, you're right, i mean t camber not castor.Doc_Oc said:The caster will not be affected in anyway. The camber will go into positive sooner, indeed. But that's why you use stiffer front springs and bigger rear sway bar.
So the front wheels will still stay in negative (relatively true) camber since the rear susspension (RSB will fight the body roll) is stiffer.
This will always be a debate as it is counterintuitive. But it works. Give it a try and see.