I need a tdi hand

k0wtz · Jul 31, 2019

Guys I honestly did a search but I am still lost hoping someone can help me out.

My 1998 Beetle TDI has gone south! I have absolutely no power. I think the turbo is not working!

I have replaced all the vac tubing with new! This is all I know or understand to do but I want to learn what is happening. I have no scope to look at things personally I think I need to finish the basics first.

So can any of you guys who have experience set me up with a step by step work schedule with this car? Starting at the beginning and working through to the end!

Does this sound feasible to you? I do have a wrench turning friend just not a TDI guy.

I need something I can print out to get started? Anyone of help here?

thanks

bob

IndigoBlueWagon · Jul 31, 2019

A good place to start would be to use a code reader and read the fault codes. Then look at this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589 for ideas on how to proceed.

Mongler98 · Jul 31, 2019

your in a limp mode. many things will cause it, too much boost, not enough, broken boost lines (your AHU runs on boost, not vacuum) and a host of other less likely things.
Reading codes is KEY to finding out whats going on. Any OBD2 code reader will give you the codes you need and not all of them trigger a CEL (check engine light) This is where you start. There is also a line inside the ECU (box for computer parts) that goes bad as well.
return once you have scanned for codes and tell us what you got.

k0wtz · Jul 31, 2019

Thanks

k0wtz · Jul 31, 2019

What is an ecu also? Thx

1854sailor · Jul 31, 2019

The ECU is the Engine Control Unit. It lives under the cowling on the driver's side in the engine compartment, near the windshield.

Mongler98 · Jul 31, 2019

the ECU is the "brain" of the car, it is a small computer that reads all the inputs and sensors and controls the engine and keeps it safe. AKA the cars computer.
or as google would say "An engine control unit (ECU), also commonly called an engine control module (ECM), is a type of electronic control unit that controls a series of actuators on an internal combustion engine to ensure optimal engine performance."

inside it there is a small length of boost line that goes to the MAP, (manifold absolute pressure sensor ) this is how the ECU gets to know how much boost the turbo is making. its very common for it to get brittle and go bad. replacing it is very easy but take care to ground your self as you handle the ECU when you have it open. its a very costly part to fix and they dont ever usually go bad so take care to treat kindly when you open it up.

KLXD · Jul 31, 2019

Um, weren't the '98 TDI Beetles ALH's? And therefore have vacuum operated VNT T/C's?

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 1, 2019

KLXD said:
Um, weren't the '98 TDI Beetles ALH's? And therefore have vacuum operated VNT T/C's?

Yes. And the MAP sensor is electric, not vacuum, lives on a boost pipe.

Mongler98 · Aug 1, 2019

Alh? Really, well then! Thought all 98 and before was ahu.

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 1, 2019

'98 NB is the first of the ALH engined TDIs. It's got a few quirks, but it's an ALH.

scooperhsd · Aug 1, 2019

1854sailor said:
The ECU is the Engine Control Unit. It lives under the cowling on the driver's side in the engine compartment, near the windshield.

In a Beetle, the ECU is under the top of the dash inside the passenger compartment on the driver's side. The inside air filters are on the passenger side.

35 Yr Dsl Veteran · Aug 1, 2019

IndigoBlueWagon said:
A good place to start would be to use a code reader and read the fault codes. Then look at this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589 for ideas on how to proceed.

Actually, you can buy a $10 OBDII "dongle", and get the $5 APP "Torque Pro".

It came in handy, when my F-350 towing an RV uphill went into turbo overboost, tripped a CEL and went in to LIMP mode, having low power at the worst time!!! I would pull over, reset CEL with the APP, and be on my way.

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 1, 2019

On a TDI you don't even need that. You can reset limp mode by cycling the ignition key. If you're brave you don't even need to stop driving.

Mongler98 · Aug 1, 2019

IndigoBlueWagon said:
On a TDI you don't even need that. You can reset limp mode by cycling the ignition key. If you're brave you don't even need to stop driving.

i did that for a few years. easy enough. still to fix it you need codes.
I use KOBRA wirless scanner for all my cars, i do have the vagcom cable though but this one is much better, $12 on amazon, and the app is free. very handy. dont pay for apps. thats a suckers game!

oilhammer · Aug 1, 2019

k0wtz said:
Guys I honestly did a search but I am still lost hoping someone can help me out.

My 1998 Beetle TDI has gone south! I have absolutely no power. I think the turbo is not working!

I have replaced all the vac tubing with new! This is all I know or understand to do but I want to learn what is happening. I have no scope to look at things personally I think I need to finish the basics first.

So can any of you guys who have experience set me up with a step by step work schedule with this car? Starting at the beginning and working through to the end!

Does this sound feasible to you? I do have a wrench turning friend just not a TDI guy.

I need something I can print out to get started? Anyone of help here?

thanks

bob

Well that is the scary part. How does this "friend" diagnose driveability on [insert any other modern vehicle here] ? Because this is the same way: start with the OBD, it is already there, and it works.

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 1, 2019

To the OP: I see you're in Missouri. oilhammer, posting above, works in a shop in St. Louis. Wherever you are in the state, it's worth the trip to have him look at the car. These cars are wonderful and very economical on fuel. But they need to be running right to do so. It's worth the expense.

k0wtz · Aug 14, 2019

mongler

what is this code reader you got off amazon. might give it a try

thanks

bob

k0wtz · Aug 14, 2019

some answers

forgot to mention I took the car to my mechanic he has worked on turbos at dealerships. anyway seems I had a bad fuse I am now working at 30% which makes a huge difference.

now I am looking for the n75 solenoid but its different than the late beetles.

life is complicated

bob

k0wtz · Aug 14, 2019

thanks oilhammer

bob

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 14, 2019

k0wtz said:
now I am looking for the n75 solenoid but its different than the late beetles.

'98 New Beetles have some quirks. N75 connector is different, this is the one you need: https://www.idparts.com/pressure-converter-n75-for-turbo-a4-alhb55-p-447.html Or you can get one for a later car and swap the car side connector.

The 98 has other quirks: Temp sensor is different, some have alternators from a MKIII Jetta, ECU is unique to that year (I believe), plus some other random things. '98 NBs are a little MK3, a little Corrado, a little MKIV. Fun.

Mongler98 · Aug 14, 2019

K0wtz, you need to stop taking your car to this "mechanic" if your getting quoated $180 for a $50 part, you need to shop else wear. there is a sticky on the TDI 101 forum page that has a local mechanics, you can search for one near you.

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 14, 2019

I actually linked to the wrong part, the correct one is https://www.idparts.com/pressure-converter-n75-for-turbo-early-a4-p-545.html

And dealer list on that part is about $180, if I recall correctly. We get it for less because we buy them direct out of Germany. They're not available in the aftermarket in the US, at least not from a good manufacturer.

oilhammer · Aug 14, 2019

I have never had any issue getting the Pierburg ones. They do cost more for the early ALHs though.

I had to put one on my '99.5 Golf not all that long ago. The rust from the rotted out VNT actuator eventually found its way into the N75 and stuck it beyond my ability to free it up.

Mongler98 · Aug 14, 2019

dont they do the same thing? cant you swap the harness? these parts are not complicated right?

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 14, 2019

Yes, they do the same thing. The only difference is the connector. And you can swap that out.

Mongler98 · Aug 14, 2019

so why on earth should we spend over $100 for a part, when you can buy the harness plug and the newer part for about $60?
for that price im soldering on the wires !

PB_NB · Aug 14, 2019

IndigoBlueWagon said:
'98 New Beetles have some quirks. N75 connector is different, this is the one you need: https://www.idparts.com/pressure-converter-n75-for-turbo-a4-alhb55-p-447.html Or you can get one for a later car and swap the car side connector.
The 98 has other quirks: Temp sensor is different, some have alternators from a MKIII Jetta, ECU is unique to that year (I believe), plus some other random things. '98 NBs are a little MK3, a little Corrado, a little MKIV. Fun.

I ran into differences with mine being a 99. I actually have a B&M shift kit in mine. (That makes it stand out!) The shifting mechanism is a little different for 2000 and on. I am sure there are a bunch of other little quirks that frustrate people when they get the wrong parts.

I guess VW swept up the old MK3 parts off the factory floor and tossed them into the early Beetles rather than putting them in the trash! Recycling...

IndigoBlueWagon · Aug 14, 2019

All MKIV cars until early MY 2000 had different shift towers, linkages, and cables. They had a different stock clutch, too, although most of those are probably long gone. I have a new factory replacement LUK clutch sitting in my garage. It seems appropriate that it should go in my '99.5 Golf at some point.

oilhammer · Aug 15, 2019

But the early clutches had DMFs that were at the time about 10x more likely to explode.

Man I cannot count how many of those I've seen. The early 1.8t engines in the Audi A4s were downright awful for that.

I need a tdi hand

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