2005 Passat TDI AC Relay problem (where to find?)

TampaPassat · Aug 27, 2008

Hi guys - I had the exact same problem described. I found the possible solution here, went down to the dealership, paid $60 after tax (the real cost) for a new relay, plugged it in, and I now have cold A/C. You guys saved me like $200+!!!

I took a pic of the old relay -

...and once again, highlighted:

I looks much worse in real life. The silver part looks cracked/broken between the right arrows.

I'm going to save the relay and have an electrically-inclined friend fix it up. If it works then I'm set for when the new one fails.

MOGolf · Sep 3, 2008

At TDIFEST OH8, Route 66 described problems with his AC. After listening to his observances, I sent him off to the nearest dealer to get a relay before they closed. He drove home with AC.

He let me keep his relay. I opened it up and found 1 bad solder joint (left arrow) and two suspect soldering joints (right side arrows). The one on the left has a break completely around the coil contact post connection.

oilhammer · Sep 4, 2008

Maybe I should start collecting them and send them to you for a 'reconditioning'

MOGolf · Sep 5, 2008

oilhammer said:
Maybe I should start collecting them and send them to you for a 'reconditioning'

I could do that. An exchange program would be much cheaper than an entirely new relay.

Look at the connection to the lower right of the large silver area. You can clearly see the ring around the base. That is a cracked joint and it goes all the way around.

engineerorange · Sep 7, 2008

MOGolf said:
I could do that. An exchange program would be much cheaper than an entirely new relay.

Look at the connection to the lower right of the large silver area. You can clearly see the ring around the base. That is a cracked joint and it goes all the way around.

That's the same joint that broke on mine. I am thinking there was a bad production run of these.

senez · Sep 14, 2008

Have had mine going intermittently the last week or so. Finally just quit all together Friday. I got time today to reach in there (taking it out is easy with the fuse panel removed, but putting it back in is easier with the whole trim dropped) and take it out today and took it apart. It's the same cold solder with the same circle around it. I took out my soldering iron and quick-fixed it until the new one gets here (hopefully tues.).

This thread saved me tons of money.

Heli wrench · Sep 16, 2008

add mine to the list.....my a/c went out tonight, pulled the relay and the same solder joint was bad. It's probably because that pin is one of the relay contact points, that should definately be beefed up.
Anyway, after a quick solder repair, it works as good as new!! Thanks for the info everyone - $50 I don't have to give VW

oilhammer · Sep 17, 2008

I wonder, will the 'fixed' relay hold up or will its solder also weaken over time?

Dangit, I replaced mine as a preventive measure before we went on a long trip this summer (I never had a problem with mine, but replace so many at the shop I figured I better). And I think I tossed my old one...why I have no idea, I usually packrat everything.

senez · Sep 17, 2008

I'm not banking on the fix working long term. The new one is being delivered today and I'll pop it in there. The original lasted 75k miles. I'll keep it as a reserve if and when this one goes. I mean, I could leave the "fixed" one in there til the problem is observed again. Or at least take it out in a week to examine the solder joint.

Heli wrench · Sep 17, 2008

I don't see why the fix won't work at least as long as the original 90K, the relay contacts are in good shape. My solder repair is superior to the original machine solder joint, in fact, I probably overdid it. I spend a lot of time in Florida with this car so the a/c won't get to rest over the winter. I will keep you guys posted.

senez · Sep 17, 2008

Yeah, I don't see why it wouldn't. The only other issue with it is that there appeared to be a couple of other hot spots on the board that worry me. I'll leave it in there for the time being and see how long it lasts.

Oh, I've also got to get some replacement low beam bulbs today. One of mine blew out this morning (hooray!).

Heli wrench · Sep 17, 2008

If there's one thing we can count on it's our cars having the same items fail like clockwork. Both my low beams went on the same day about the 80K mark. Licence plate lights went some time around 80K too.

senez · Sep 17, 2008

damn, haven't even checked those

MOGolf · Sep 17, 2008

oilhammer said:
I wonder, will the 'fixed' relay hold up or will its solder also weaken over time?

I know mine would.

I do have the capability to clean off all the old solder at the joint and repair it properly. Or I could just heat it up with a soldering iron and remelt the existing solder. There is a possibility of contaminants on the relay lug that prevented the proper soldering of the connection. If that is the case, a remelt only solution may fail in another few seasons of usage. Either way saves the cost of a new relay, provided there's a soldering iron handy when the failure occurs (i.e. I'm not out in the desert when I forgot to pack the soldering iron).

senez · Sep 18, 2008

Got the relay yesterday. I went ahead and put the new one in so I can refine the quick and dirty solder job I did the day before on the old one. I'll have a backup for the future.

While I was in there, I pulled the DRL relay (b/c my bulb just blew).

Replacing the headlights sucked, especially the passenger side. I need to invest in a 4-year-old girl when I change that bulb again. I eventually had to resort to vice grips to hold the lamp in place to turn it.

McLION · Sep 30, 2008

Relay panel layout graphic?

Can any one upload a pic of the panel in question?

senez · Sep 30, 2008

It's the driver's side...the dark gray panel on the end of the dash. I don't have a picture readily available, but it doesn't look like a fuse panel at all.

It's the gray plastic that you would remove if you wanted to see what was behind the instrument panel if you were standing outside the car looking at the driver's seat.

Did that make any sense?

McLION · Sep 30, 2008

senez said:
It's the driver's side...the dark gray panel on the end of the dash. I don't have a picture readily available, but it doesn't look like a fuse panel at all.

It's the gray plastic that you would remove if you wanted to see what was behind the instrument panel if you were standing outside the car looking at the driver's seat.

Did that make any sense?

I got the panel off but need to know what relay to pull. Thought there may be a position drawing to refer to.
Thanks!

oilhammer · Sep 30, 2008

The relay control number was mentioned several times earlier in this thread. Look for "384" as the control number.

McLION · Sep 30, 2008

Control Number?

Do you mean the number printed on the end of the relay?

oilhammer · Sep 30, 2008

McLION said:
Do you mean the number printed on the end of the relay?

Yep, that is the one.

Route 66 · Sep 30, 2008

Do Toyotas and Hondas ever have these relay problems?

McLION · Sep 30, 2008

384 Thanks!

I hate to be so wordy in my inquiry!
But, the obvious is not always what gets engineered!

I feel much better about pulling the relay now!

THANK YOU!

oilhammer · Sep 30, 2008

Route 66 said:
Do Toyotas and Hondas ever have these relay problems?

I mentioned that in the first page of this thread, actually, about the failing Toyota compressor clutch relays.

And Honda has had "main relay" problems for YEARS (like, more than 20). The Honda main relay is similar to the VAG relay 109, but it does double duty and also powers the electric fuel pump in addition to the ECU.

Anyone that has been around Hondas for a while like I have knows all about the main relays.

FWIW, I have replaced far more relay boards and junction blocks and fusible link connections and battery terminals in Toyotas moreso than relays.

And at Lexus we replaced the crappy Fujitsu-10 radios like crazy. Ironically, you'd think the ONE THING that a Japanese car maker could easily do better than anyone else is the radio. But when you pull them out, you see those 3 little words that say otherwise; MADE IN CHINA

tdigreg · Apr 23, 2009

this solder job is really easy
were cold as ice again

maiorinc · Jul 28, 2009

Source for the Relay

I can't seem to find this part (8DO-919-578-A), anywhere. Doing a part number search on the various supplier sites yield nothing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

owr084 · Jul 28, 2009

maiorinc said:
I can't seem to find this part (8DO-919-578-A), anywhere. Doing a part number search on the various supplier sites yield nothing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Try 8D0 (as in eight D zero) instead of 8DO

Zambee500 · Jul 28, 2009

Fortuitous that this thread popped back up today. The AC went out on my wife this evening after the car sat in the shadeless parking lot at her office all day in the Atlanta summer heat. I cranked it this evening and sure enough it was blowing hot air, but as I moved the car out of the driveway to park it on the street in front of the neighbor's house, the AC clutch engaged right before I was about to shut off the motor. I followed the instructions from this thread and could see the 384 relay above and behind the fuse panel, but I didn't try pulling it because I don't have the replacement relay yet and no sense in trying to get my hand through that little opening. Will do that tomorrow. So the thing just slides right out, like a giant fuse?

(I wish Napa or another auto parts store would start carrying these if they go out with that kind of frequency.)

owr084 · Jul 28, 2009

Yes. It pulls straight out. You only have to remove the fuse panel cover (like you did). Use a bright flashlight to so you can see where it is aligned.

Take the old one out and repair it as a spare. A thin screwdriver will pop the case off. The picture in post #32 in this thread shows the points to resolder. The arrow on the far left is the most likely point of failure.

owr084 · Jul 28, 2009

See the post here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=245377 for pictures of the relay panels without the covers. You don't need to remove the covers like the pictures, but they help to visualize the placement.

2005 Passat TDI AC Relay problem (where to find?)

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