Alternator Re & Re 'How To'

Wingnut

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Silver 2003 Jetta Wagon
Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

EDIT: This writeup is for the ALH motors. The BEW & newer engines have the alternators on top of the power steering pump, so are much easir to remove.

UPDATE:
This How To was done a long time ago. If you just need to change the pulley and not the whole alternator itself, you can do so with the alternator still in the car. Here is a simple writeup on that procedure:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=234251

If you still need to remove the alternator for other reasons, then read on.


Ok, so this isn't one of my best how to's. I was in a hurry and didn't have time to take many pics. I will take some more next time I am under a car and fill in the missing pics. Besides, the batteries in my camera were dead, so Ken took the pictures for me. Thanks Ken.

So down to it. Just looking at the location of the alternator made me cringe when I first started doing the job. But it turned out to be a lot easier than I thought.

You need to remove the serpentine belt, tensioner, A/C compressor & one of the cooling fans to get the alternator out. All in all, it took me just under 2 hours.

The tools I used were as follows:

8mm socket
10mm socket
13mm socket
16mm socket
16mm wrench
Various extensions
Pry bar or large screwdriver
T27 Torx bit.


So to start with, you have to jack up the car and secure it safely. Then remove the belly pan and passenger side skirt & wheel (Its not as cold as it looks):



Then, using the 16mm wrench (the longer the better), take the tension off the serpentine belt by pushing it upwards. You need to push it quite a bit to releive enough tension to remove the belt. Take it off one of the lower pulleys, like the A/C compressor. And be carefull when doing this not to pinch a finger. That tensioner is very strong. You then need to remove the tensioner. It is held in with 3 13mm bolts. The 3 bolts are quite close together. Here is a pic of the tensioner removed so you know the location of the 3 bolts:



(will add picture of it in the car at a later date)

Once the tensioner is out, you can easily get to the 2 bolts that hold in the A/C compressor. They are both 16mm. Once they are out, you need to pry the compressor downward with a pry bar. It will be wedged tightly onto the bracket (don't forget to unplug it).

(Again, I will post a picture at a later date)

Once the compressor is out, use a piece of wire or nylon zip ties to hold it up. You do not want it to hang by the hoses as that will put stress on the hoses and might break one of them?

In order to make room to get the alternator out, you need to remove one of the cooling fans. It is only held on with 3 torx screws, so should be a snap to remove. They are T27 screws, but if you don't have a T27, a T25 will work just fine. Once you have the fan out, it can just hang down under the car with the compressor:



Now you can easily see the 2 bolts holding the alternator in place. They are both 13mm. Remove the 2 bolts and then pry the alternator forward. Just like the A/C compressor, it will be pretty tight.



On the back side of the alternator, you have a bracket that holds the wire. This can be removed with an 8mm socket. You also have to remove the power cable from the battery. This is a 13mm bolt. Disconnect the battery before doing this. If you don't, you risk having the live wire short out on a part of the frame or engine. Finally, there is also a plug on the alternator that needs removing just like the one on the A/C compressor.

(One more picture to add here)


With the fan out of the way, there is plenty of room to wiggle the alternator out of its bracket. Here is a top view of the extra room:



Here are the 2 alternators side by side. Not sure how it happened, but the pulley just fell off the old one?



So now you just need to put everything back in the reverse order. To make it easier to replace the alternator, you need to widen the gap between the tabs. Remember how hard it was to pry off? This will allow the alternator to slip over the bracket much easier. Get a socket big enough to allow the threaded insert to be driven insid eit. I think I used an 18mm socket, but any large socket will do:



Thread the bolt in a few threads and give the bolt a few taps with a hammer untill the threaded insert moves about 1/8" or so. You can see here how much it moved:



You can do the same thing with the A/C compressor too, but since its hanging in the car still, I used a c-clamp and a socket:



Here are the 2 A/C inserts pushed back:




There isn't much else I can add at this time. But instead of sitting on these pictures till I had them all, I figured I would post what I had and add to it later. At least it will give you an idea of what you are up against.

Good luck.

EDIT: Paramedick did a great How To on how to re & re the pulley. With that info, this thread is now complete. Thanks Bruce

EDIT #2: FYI, this guide is for the ALH engine only. Anyone with a BEW (2004+) can change the pulley from the top. I was able to do it without removing the alternator. Its MUCH easier on the BEW engines.
 
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mgwerks

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Dec 10, 2003
Location
Texas Hill Country
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black 1999 New Beetle
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Thanks, Wingnut, for another great addition the the Fred's Book of Knowledge. I appreciate you being one of the 'keepers of the light' for the rest of us.
 

joshmckin

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Jan 31, 2003
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Las Vegas
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Jetta, 02, dark blue
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Nice, would have really helped a few days ago. Didn't think to remove the fan for some reason.
 

VelvetFoot

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Sand Lake, NY
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NB, 2000, Yellow
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Good info. I can see why you were in a hurry with the the lying in the snow and all.
 

mpitts

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Sugar Hill, NH
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Jetta 2000 Black
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Wingnut,
I too had the pulley just undo itself on my alt. Happened 10ft. from the freeway onramp. Turned around and drove it home. Bangin and a clangin (can't be good)Any how to get the thing out I dropped my whole front end radiator carrier whatnot to the service position as described in the Bentley manual. Took all day. With your fan trick next time (not soon) things will go smoother.
One observation it looks like you got a used alternator. The new Bosch one I got fell into place then the ears squished tight when I torked the fasteners.
One question: What kind of sand paper do you use to take off couple hundredths of an inch? I'd set it up in the Bridgeport and use an end mill for that kind of stock removal. Just being anal I know you meant thousanths.
Great pics.
One more tip, if you can get a sturdy piece of nylon rod about a foot long and gind a taper on one end to fit between the alternator ond the bracket you can then hammer on the rod to pry the alternator off, worked quick for me.
 

L7

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Joined
Jul 17, 2002
Location
Florissant MO
TDI
2000 Jetta
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Yeah...whats up with these alternators!!!...my freakin pulley just fell of today on the interstate as well. (2000 a4 jetta..140,000 miles )!!!


Thanks for the write up !!
 

TornadoRed

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2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (PARTED); 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD)
Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

I had the pulley go bad on my alternator at about 78k miles. The labor charge was considerable because they said they had to remove the power steering pump (Over 3 hours I think). Does this make sense? How long did the job take you?
 

Luckycar

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Columbus, OH
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2004 Jetta Wagon Wheat Beige
Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

I had the pulley go bad on my alternator at about 78k miles. The labor charge was considerable because they said they had to remove the power steering pump (Over 3 hours I think). Does this make sense? How long did the job take you?
In his initial post Wingnut said it took him about 2 hours.

Dennis
 

Wingnut

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Joined
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Location
Toronto & Whitby
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Silver 2003 Jetta Wagon
Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Yep, 2 hours and half of it lying on my back. A shop with a hoist & air tools should be able to do it in just over an hour. It is possible to take the alternator out from the top, but the powersteering pump has to be removed. And since it is attached to a solid (not flexible) pressure line, the hose has to come off and then you are looking at a big mess of power steering fluid all over the place. Too much effort IMO.

The best & easiest way is to remove the belly pan (5 minutes). Remove the srepentine belt (2 minutes). Remove the A/C compressor & tie it up (2 bolts...5 min). Remove the serpentine belt tensioner (3 bolts...6 min). Remove A/C fan (3 screws...5 min). Remove alterantor from the bottom (3 bolts & 1 wire connector...5 min) Total to remove = about 1/2 hour. Instalation is opposite of removal. So add cleanup time and the job should take just over 1 hour. It took me longer because as I was working, I was shooting the $h1t with the owner of the car and since I was working at ground level, I had to re & re the wheel as well.

EDIT: I cannot add this picture to the first post as there is a 10 picture limit per post. Here is the diagram for the correct belt routing:

 
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TOBarber

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Dec 20, 2002
Location
Toronto, Canada
TDI
Golf SportWagon, 2012, dark gray
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Is it possible to replace the brushes on these alternators? On my '94 EV I can easily remove the brush assembly and replace it. They last for about 200,000 km. Cost is under $100. An enterprising mechanic could probably replace just the brushes.

Should I carry a spare pulley or alternator with me for my Golf or should I just replace my alternator when it warms up; the weather that is.

Bill

'00 Golf GLS TDI 125,000 km
'94 EV GLS 2.4l NA 350,000 km
 

CaTdi2002

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Dec 3, 2002
Location
modesto ca
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02 gls black 5 spd @9k miles since 10/02
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Man, I am glad to see I am not alone on the pulley thing. 85K and my pulley just fell apart into two pieces. The question is do i replace the pulley or just replace the entire alternator ?

cheers
 

rdkern

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Humboldt Co CA
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Passat 1997 silver (sold after 11 years), Jetta 2000 atlantic blue
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Just a comment on the sanding of the "contact points". When I took mine out of my B4, I used a C-clamp and large socket to push those contact whatchamcallets back 1/8" or so. Worked fine, and the bolts tightened them back snug.
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Man, I am glad to see I am not alone on the pulley thing. 85K and my pulley just fell apart into two pieces. The question is do i replace the pulley or just replace the entire alternator ?

cheers
Anyone have an answer? My pully fell off at 53k miles.
 

NorthernMage

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May 5, 2005
Location
Victoria, BC
TDI
2012 Jetta TDI, 6MT, Platinum Grey
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

Wonder if there is a VW TSB out on this yet? Sounds like something they should cover if it is happening more frequently. How does the part fail, is it a pressure fit or does a bolt fail?
 

jokila

Vendor
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Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Re: Alternator Re & Re \'How To\'

That's what I want to know. It was making chirping noises a few days before it failed. I assumed it's pressure fit on a shaft that is keyed with splines. Now I am not so sure after seeing these pictures.
 

clay1260

Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
SE NC
TDI
'03 TDI NB, '04 TDI Passat
Pulley slip? Oil in intercooler hose..

Trying to diagnose why my '03 NB is losing voltage. Searches led me here. Excellent infobase by Wingnut. I have succeeded in getting the a/c comp out of the way and I can spin the pulley on the alternator freely HOWEVER if I spin it with a little extra torque I can feel that the pulley spins freely from the alternator armature/rotor shaft. It feels akin to a clutch decoupling from a shaft. This wouldn't be normal would it? Does the pulley have a clutch mechanism? One other thing...as I was removing items to get to the alternator, I removed the air hose at the bottom of the intercooler (turbo suction) and found about a 1/4 cup of oil spilled out....what's up with that? Spillover? Help please. Thanks!

Update..I found the link to http://www.forparts.com/techpprpulley.htm which states that this is clutch type pulley...so there goes my smoking gun. Anyone have any experience in removing the pulley?
 
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jokila

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Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
If you rotate it clockwise it will turn the shaft, counter-clockwise will spin freely. That's what I noticed about the pulley. I removed mine because it was damaged. It actually fell off and left the inner part of the pulley clutch still attached to the alternator shaft.

I used a large torx tool and a pipe wrench to remove it. The shaft has a hex shaped recess on the end that I placed my torx tool into. It came off fairly easily. I coated the shaft threads with blue loctite and then screwed the new pulley onto it. It was very easy to do despite how bad it looked initially.

The only thing that I didn't repeat from the original pulley was to leave the plastic cover intact instead of cutting a 1" hole into it. It seems like there was no reason to do it and the plastic cover didn't come that way. I figure the less water and debris from invading the end of the shaft, the better.

The oil in the intercooler has been documented here a lot. I believe it comes from oil leaking past the turbo seal. Some of it is fairly normal. Do a search.

clay1260 said:
Trying to diagnose why my '03 NB is losing voltage. Searches led me here. Excellent infobase by Wingnut. I have succeeded in getting the a/c comp out of the way and I can spin the pulley on the alternator freely HOWEVER if I spin it with a little extra torque I can feel that the pulley spins freely from the alternator armature/rotor shaft. It feels akin to a clutch decoupling from a shaft. This wouldn't be normal would it? Does the pulley have a clutch mechanism? One other thing...as I was removing items to get to the alternator, I removed the air hose at the bottom of the intercooler (turbo suction) and found about a 1/4 cup of oil spilled out....what's up with that? Spillover? Help please. Thanks!

Update..I found the link to http://www.forparts.com/techpprpulley.htm which states that this is clutch type pulley...so there goes my smoking gun. Anyone have any experience in removing the pulley?
 
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clay1260

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Nov 14, 2005
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SE NC
TDI
'03 TDI NB, '04 TDI Passat
jokila! thanks much. sorry it took so long to reply but shoulder surgery got in the way. anywho, it turns out that I got lucky, it was a high resistance at the fuse block connector. i was under the car spinning the pulley by hand with the info you provided and it seemed to be reacting properly. so instead of going to the point of no return, I decided to put it back together and try it one more time as I had actually overlooked checking the fuse block connector from the beginning. when I popped the fuse block cover off, there was slight corrosion apparent. so I cleaned it up and resecured it, fired the little bugger up and presto, 14.1 volts! it was nice to get all that behind me before my surgery otherwise the car was going to sitting outta commision for few weeks. lesson learned: don't forget to check the basics. as my wife so eloquently put it, DUH!
 

jokila

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2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
clay1260 said:
jokila! thanks much. sorry it took so long to reply but shoulder surgery got in the way. anywho, it turns out that I got lucky, it was a high resistance at the fuse block connector. i was under the car spinning the pulley by hand with the info you provided and it seemed to be reacting properly. so instead of going to the point of no return, I decided to put it back together and try it one more time as I had actually overlooked checking the fuse block connector from the beginning. when I popped the fuse block cover off, there was slight corrosion apparent. so I cleaned it up and resecured it, fired the little bugger up and presto, 14.1 volts! it was nice to get all that behind me before my surgery otherwise the car was going to sitting outta commision for few weeks. lesson learned: don't forget to check the basics. as my wife so eloquently put it, DUH!
And if you took it to a dealer, they would have changed a bunch of parts and then figured out nothing helped, then cleaned up the fuse panel. The customer ends up spending for useless parts and needless labor expenses. Good job troubleshooting your charging issue. :)
 

wilbomb19

New member
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Removal from top??

I have a '98 VW Jetta TDI and have to remove the alternator. Question is simple, is there not enough room to remove the alternator from the top? I just want to get the alternator out, if installation requires access to the underside of the car that's fine (install belt tensioner, etc.). Also, any reason you can't drive the car with alternator off the car so long as you charge the battery?
 

Ironforger

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Feb 18, 2003
Location
Lawrenceville, NJ.
clay1260 said:
jokila! thanks much. sorry it took so long to reply but shoulder surgery got in the way. anywho, it turns out that I got lucky, it was a high resistance at the fuse block connector. i was under the car spinning the pulley by hand with the info you provided and it seemed to be reacting properly. so instead of going to the point of no return, I decided to put it back together and try it one more time as I had actually overlooked checking the fuse block connector from the beginning. when I popped the fuse block cover off, there was slight corrosion apparent. so I cleaned it up and resecured it, fired the little bugger up and presto, 14.1 volts! it was nice to get all that behind me before my surgery otherwise the car was going to sitting outta commision for few weeks. lesson learned: don't forget to check the basics. as my wife so eloquently put it, DUH!
Does anyone know where the fuse block connector is that clay1260 is reffering to? Or the fuse block cover? Is that the fuse panel inside the door of the drivers side? My battery light came on, and my system is not charging. Would like to be certain of the locations of all connectors to check before I go through the trouble of removing the alternator.

Thanks!
 

Powder Hound

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Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
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clay1260 said:
...as I was removing items to get to the alternator, I removed the air hose at the bottom of the intercooler (turbo suction) and found about a 1/4 cup of oil spilled out....what's up with that?
It is condensation of the crankcase vapors coming out of the CCV. You have just discovered why many people are looking for ways to filter or otherwise bypass putting the CCV vent directly back into the intake plenum. They're trying to get that liquid stuff out of the gasses so it won't contribute to intake manifold clogging.
 

Shaggy28

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Mar 20, 2006
Location
Pasadena, MD
TDI
2003 Golf GL 4D (Silver)
Hey all! Just used Wingnut's "how to" to perform my alt replacement and it was a cinch. The hardest part of my whole ordeal was getting an alt. Purchased one online from Advanced Auto and they sent me an email 5 days later telling me they weren't selling that model anymore (why was it on the website then???). So, I was about to purchase one online from www.worldimpex.com when I realized they we were both in MD... so I drove there to pick one up. $247 + $99 core charge. I highly recomend this shop. Low key, good people and highly knowledgable.

A couple tough spots coming from a true amateur...

1. Weaving the alt out throught the mess of hoses and then back in through the same mess. Probably the most time consuming part of my replacement.

2. Spoke with another guy about the alt ears... on a brand new one if you slap it on there and try to tighten it down without moving the ears yourself with a c-clamp you risk the ears snapping off completely. It happened to this guy so I took his advice.

3. Getting the A/C compressor back on. The ears on this have the same type of slide nut thing (amateur) and you need to get them moved back slightly. There is no great spot to use a c-clamp but a c-clamp will work with persistance and patience.

4. Compare your new belt with your old belt before you spend a frustrating half hour trying to get a belt that's an inch or so too small to fit.

5. Make a diagram of the belt patern. I bought a new tensioner that came with one. I realized that I would have been a little frustrated had I not had that. I will scan mine later on so that it appears with my reply on this thread.

Wingnut - great how to! Made my job much easier and saved a good $500+ by doing it myself. Now I'm happily back to 50 MPG!!!:D
 

rbachtel50

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May 25, 2006
Location
Baytown, Tx
TDI
2003 Jetta
Wish I had checked this site last week. Took my 2003 Jetta TDI to the dealer because the battery was not staying charged. Battery checked out ok ( I replaced it a year ago), but the ABS and AIRBAG lights had come on and the car ran like crappola. Anyway, since the car is a daily driver, and I needed it fixed pronto, they gouged me $86 for a diagnostics fee, and told me that the alternator was going south. So I had them replace it.
Diagnostic charge - $86
3 hours labor - $258
New alternator - $120.72 Part # 028-903-029-G
Misc charge - $20
Tax - $11.69
Total - $496.33
The service writer did tell me that the new alternator was a Hitachi. He said that VW had changed parts suppliers because of the oem alternators not lasting.
I just got off the phone with the No-one-cares VW AMERICA customer service line to see if they would help on the parts or labor, and to see if there was any recorded pattern with these alternators lasting less than 75k miles, or of any type of recalls. She politely told me about my 4 year, 60k mile bumper to bumper warranty, and that at 74200 miles, I was way out of warranty. I acknowledged that, but told her an alternator should not go out that quickly. Anyway, I duely noted my concerns about how long this TDI will last.
So my question is: Does a TDI alternator put out more amps than a non-TDI alternator, or are they the same? VW couldn't tell me. tia
 

pepper10

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Apr 21, 2004
Location
Manchester, NH, USA
TDI
:)2002 A4 TDI , 2006 A5:)
I want to add a few thing to this great post..

1- Be prepared to swap your pulley to the new alternator. If it's the clutch type pulley, you will need a special tool available from Metalnerd part MN3400SET from this page http://shop.metalnerd.com/index.cgi?code=3&cat=5

2- There is no need to sand the inside of the eras on the Alternator or the compressor. On one side, the ears have metal sleeves slide snug when tightened. Just tap them back in a little with a hammer.
 

one4mileage

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Sep 26, 2004
Location
Orange County, CA
TDI
2001 silver Jetta TDI (5 Spd) GLS
I think my alternator is shot. I have a 2001 Jetta. Do I need only one tool from Metalnerd or are more required? I'm also wondering if I should get a quote on a Hitachi replacement to my stock 120A alternator. The Hitachi is much cheaper according to the last thread. Are there alternator rebuild kits for these alternators or do people have these professionally rebuilt? I'm trying to decide if it's worth it for me to wait a week for parts or should I just take my car to the VW dealer where I will drive away with even more problems.
 
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