Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
Transmission
A couple weeks ago I pulled the transmission to 'fix' the spring to keep the release lever in the right spot on the pivot ball since it seemed like it broke. Good thing I did because after about 2 years on the stage 4 clutch, it had already started to bend. Since the deflection was perfectly visible for me, I was more than happy to replace the lever with a strengthened one before this one broke.
Click to embiggen
Decided to install a brace for the output shaft too. Required a little bit of dremel work on the housing and the plate itself to clear the release lever.
Click to embiggen
Turbo
Here is the vane gap I speak of below:
While I'm doing a once over on the turbo, I noticed some decent amount of play and associate wear on the shaft where the spherical bearing mates to the vane actuator.
Click to embiggen
The wear on the bearing was uneven but not too bad. It had an ID of 7.75 mm and from what I've seen, the new ones have an ID of 7.6mm.
Click to embiggen
Click to embiggen
That being said, I didn't want to spend $10-20 for a new one so I went for the next best thing, 2 layers of metal tape. The differences measure out to 0.75mm of play. The most immediate fix I could think of was a couple layers, 2 in the case, of metal tape and some general purpose bearing grease on the bearing in the rod and on the pivot.
Click to embiggen
The grease may not like the heat by the turbo, but there is still some play in the bearing's seat so I'm not too worried about it freezing.
Intake Pipe
Now, I'm not sure where it is from and I cannot find my post with the original photos, but the TIP was half stock, half from another non-vw car made from rubber. It has a coupler for the 2.25" OD of the GTB1756's compressor inlet, but the other end of it was meant to be clamped down onto a hard pipe or sorts. However, the ID of the stock B4 accordion pipe is larger than it's OD and has been best served being secured over it with a worm gear clamp. I've gotten it well secured in the past and it's caused no concerns. A look at the compressor turbine shows no added wear from a possible non-flush mating between the two.
Well, since its made of rubber and I had spare pipe sections around from doing exhaust work, I cut off about a 5/8ths section to fit into the rubber pipe so a flush mating surface and higher pressure clamp could be used. Had to pop is out and trim off about 4 mm over 2 test fits, but they both mate cleanly now with a standard constant tension hose clamp from VW.
Click to embiggen
A couple weeks ago I pulled the transmission to 'fix' the spring to keep the release lever in the right spot on the pivot ball since it seemed like it broke. Good thing I did because after about 2 years on the stage 4 clutch, it had already started to bend. Since the deflection was perfectly visible for me, I was more than happy to replace the lever with a strengthened one before this one broke.
Click to embiggen
Decided to install a brace for the output shaft too. Required a little bit of dremel work on the housing and the plate itself to clear the release lever.
Click to embiggen
Turbo
Here is the vane gap I speak of below:
While I'm doing a once over on the turbo, I noticed some decent amount of play and associate wear on the shaft where the spherical bearing mates to the vane actuator.
Click to embiggen
The wear on the bearing was uneven but not too bad. It had an ID of 7.75 mm and from what I've seen, the new ones have an ID of 7.6mm.
Click to embiggen
Click to embiggen
That being said, I didn't want to spend $10-20 for a new one so I went for the next best thing, 2 layers of metal tape. The differences measure out to 0.75mm of play. The most immediate fix I could think of was a couple layers, 2 in the case, of metal tape and some general purpose bearing grease on the bearing in the rod and on the pivot.
Click to embiggen
The grease may not like the heat by the turbo, but there is still some play in the bearing's seat so I'm not too worried about it freezing.
Intake Pipe
Now, I'm not sure where it is from and I cannot find my post with the original photos, but the TIP was half stock, half from another non-vw car made from rubber. It has a coupler for the 2.25" OD of the GTB1756's compressor inlet, but the other end of it was meant to be clamped down onto a hard pipe or sorts. However, the ID of the stock B4 accordion pipe is larger than it's OD and has been best served being secured over it with a worm gear clamp. I've gotten it well secured in the past and it's caused no concerns. A look at the compressor turbine shows no added wear from a possible non-flush mating between the two.
Well, since its made of rubber and I had spare pipe sections around from doing exhaust work, I cut off about a 5/8ths section to fit into the rubber pipe so a flush mating surface and higher pressure clamp could be used. Had to pop is out and trim off about 4 mm over 2 test fits, but they both mate cleanly now with a standard constant tension hose clamp from VW.
Click to embiggen
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