shadowmaker
Veteran Member
At least 2,4bar and 4500rpm, but not with stock turbo. Stock turbo is useless for anything over 1,3bar.
Very strong engine indeed, but has weak main caps/bolts sometimes.
2,5 TDI AAT upgrade
- Thread starter sorin_gyo
- Start date
Very strong engine indeed, but has weak main caps/bolts sometimes.
2,5 tdi aat upgrade
honestly, i'm not so sure about rmodifications, for a couple of days ago.smoke is bigger with AEL noozles, power also has increase, but...to smokeyyy.
i mounted yesterday my boost gauge, and i have 1,4 bar max boost with stock ECU and engine. i'm surprised because all of you have said that original boost is 0,8 bar.
you're all wrong. boost is 1,3-1,4bar
after remapping , maybe even bigger.
will see...
honestly, i'm not so sure about rmodifications, for a couple of days ago.smoke is bigger with AEL noozles, power also has increase, but...to smokeyyy.
i mounted yesterday my boost gauge, and i have 1,4 bar max boost with stock ECU and engine. i'm surprised because all of you have said that original boost is 0,8 bar.
you're all wrong. boost is 1,3-1,4bar
after remapping , maybe even bigger.
will see...
Nope, stock boost is under 1.0. Either your boost pressure gauge is broken or there is something done to your boost pressures. Perhaps a leak in map sensor pipe or N75 not working properly.
Bigger nozzles also increase boost, but ael nozzles ain't that much bigger than aat.
Bigger nozzles also increase boost, but ael nozzles ain't that much bigger than aat.
HF1600ie
Well-known member
2.0 bar stable boost is a hell of a pressure. 2.6 peak pressure is absolutely insane 
, even if the headgasket is stronger (which I think is your case) and the turbo is the stock one. All else stock...
Those are good news about the reliability of these engines.
I just traded my A4 AFN for the A6 AAT today. Did 300km home very well. What I didn´t like was that it smokes a little before turbo kicks in and a little less smoke after it, but still present if I floor the pedal. I Think that a VNT turbo would avoid it and also raising the requested pressure to about 1 bar, with stock injection values, may help. IF there´s smoke, there´s margin to raise the turbo boost.
Also, I have to press the gas pedal a little to start the engine, because it usually fails to start, only doing good at 3rd attempt, when it finally starts and delivers a big puff of smoke (kind of white, like incompletely burnt diesel/fuel).
Maybe air in the fuel lines? Or incorrect timing? Ill check it tomorrow.
Is there board computer in these cars? I don´t see any indication about fuel mpg or external temperature. The indicator stalks don´t have any buttons, like my A4 did. But the dashboard seems to be the very same as the other A6 C4s.
, even if the headgasket is stronger (which I think is your case) and the turbo is the stock one. All else stock...Those are good news about the reliability of these engines.
I just traded my A4 AFN for the A6 AAT today. Did 300km home very well. What I didn´t like was that it smokes a little before turbo kicks in and a little less smoke after it, but still present if I floor the pedal. I Think that a VNT turbo would avoid it and also raising the requested pressure to about 1 bar, with stock injection values, may help. IF there´s smoke, there´s margin to raise the turbo boost.
Also, I have to press the gas pedal a little to start the engine, because it usually fails to start, only doing good at 3rd attempt, when it finally starts and delivers a big puff of smoke (kind of white, like incompletely burnt diesel/fuel).
Maybe air in the fuel lines? Or incorrect timing? Ill check it tomorrow.
Is there board computer in these cars? I don´t see any indication about fuel mpg or external temperature. The indicator stalks don´t have any buttons, like my A4 did. But the dashboard seems to be the very same as the other A6 C4s.
Onboard computer is optional, not all cars have it. But there are many C4 models with it.
White smoke sounds like timing is too retarded, increase advance to pump. If that won't help, try adding some injection. Then search if there is airleak, those should do the trick.
White smoke sounds like timing is too retarded, increase advance to pump. If that won't help, try adding some injection. Then search if there is airleak, those should do the trick.
HF1600ie
Well-known member
Hi,
Mine has all the layout of a normal A6 C4 with 3 dials in the middle and everything.
But the middle square in the dashboard doesn´t have anything written in there like mpg and l/100 or something similar. It´s just in there and nothing appears. Only the small squares which indicate oil level or brake or ABS.
So, I guess that it doent have board computer which is a shame. I thought it did !
By the way, I changed all the thin fuel lines as the old ones were very worn, but not leaking. Nothing appears to be leaking.
I´ve connected my car to the ECU and raised the idle speed to 820rpm and also settled the injected quantity at 5.0mg. The Timing I cannot adjust via vag-com and it was something like 1.8º BTDC or 2.0º BTDC at idle. Is this OK ?
The car started more easily, but still fails sometimes. Anyway, when idling I can see it smoking a little haze and smells like incompletely burnt fuel which goves that annoying smell. The smoke is kind of light grey (not blue actually).
Also, there´s this light shudder/vibration if I idle at 1500rpm, the engine starts to shake. The injectors are stock (I guess) and the injected quantity was OK.
Otherwise, It´s a pleasure to drive not too sporty as my ex-A4, but something I can easily improve.
Any tips from you AAT/AEL experts?
Mine has all the layout of a normal A6 C4 with 3 dials in the middle and everything.
But the middle square in the dashboard doesn´t have anything written in there like mpg and l/100 or something similar. It´s just in there and nothing appears. Only the small squares which indicate oil level or brake or ABS.
So, I guess that it doent have board computer which is a shame. I thought it did !
By the way, I changed all the thin fuel lines as the old ones were very worn, but not leaking. Nothing appears to be leaking.
I´ve connected my car to the ECU and raised the idle speed to 820rpm and also settled the injected quantity at 5.0mg. The Timing I cannot adjust via vag-com and it was something like 1.8º BTDC or 2.0º BTDC at idle. Is this OK ?
The car started more easily, but still fails sometimes. Anyway, when idling I can see it smoking a little haze and smells like incompletely burnt fuel which goves that annoying smell. The smoke is kind of light grey (not blue actually).
Also, there´s this light shudder/vibration if I idle at 1500rpm, the engine starts to shake. The injectors are stock (I guess) and the injected quantity was OK.
Otherwise, It´s a pleasure to drive not too sporty as my ex-A4, but something I can easily improve.
Any tips from you AAT/AEL experts?
raymor
Veteran Member
Sounds familiar. I've got that at the moment following new nozzles, top end overall and a few mods. Mine clears up when warmed but wasn't there before the rebuild... I too would be keen to get any previous experience on it.
You can look timing from vag-com. Engine -> measure blocks -> ch 00 GO -> switch to basic settings -> tdi timing.
There you just choose right engine code (Ael / aat, diffirence is how high idle speed rises, 1000 or 1200).
Should be over 40. I have close to 80 at the moment.
This timing is changed by rotating the pump, loosen up 4 bolts and turn the pump towards the engine, and it goes more advance. Turn away from engine, and get more retarderd.
And you can also see if it helps, if you take off that fourth injector electric connector. You can measure if it's OK, between those two pins there sould be 100 ohms resistance when engine is cold. It's ok to drive without it, that way you can test if it runs smoother. Won't just give all the power without it.
Also you can test by taking off EGR valve connector, might help a little if there is fault.
There you just choose right engine code (Ael / aat, diffirence is how high idle speed rises, 1000 or 1200).
Should be over 40. I have close to 80 at the moment.
This timing is changed by rotating the pump, loosen up 4 bolts and turn the pump towards the engine, and it goes more advance. Turn away from engine, and get more retarderd.
And you can also see if it helps, if you take off that fourth injector electric connector. You can measure if it's OK, between those two pins there sould be 100 ohms resistance when engine is cold. It's ok to drive without it, that way you can test if it runs smoother. Won't just give all the power without it.
Also you can test by taking off EGR valve connector, might help a little if there is fault.
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That haze might be from a squirting injector?
Starting has always been a problem with my car when the distribution was set up correctly. After advancing the timing a little (well as razur said, 80 might be a good milestone) it started better.
I haven't noticed any haze until the last rebuild. It should be something linked to injection and not a factory flaw. Check the opening pressure of the nozzles.
That 1500rpm shudder was a major concern for me back in time (now I have others)... I guess it is normal if it is in normal limits.
You could delete the EGR completely and also remove the cat if you have no problems with periodical inspection in Portugal.
Your car doesn't have bord computer, not many have.
Starting has always been a problem with my car when the distribution was set up correctly. After advancing the timing a little (well as razur said, 80 might be a good milestone) it started better.
I haven't noticed any haze until the last rebuild. It should be something linked to injection and not a factory flaw. Check the opening pressure of the nozzles.
That 1500rpm shudder was a major concern for me back in time (now I have others
)... I guess it is normal if it is in normal limits.You could delete the EGR completely and also remove the cat if you have no problems with periodical inspection in Portugal.
Your car doesn't have bord computer, not many have.
HF1600ie
Well-known member
This morning it has started 1st time, after 3 revolutions. After I have riven a few KM and stopped (almost hot engine), it started 2nd time and of course, s cloud of smoke out of exhaust was visible. I have to raise a little bit the "injection quantity at start" via vag-com.
And obviously... do the timing test.
When the engine was hot, there was no smoke/haze out of the exhaust. Very clean...
I did a test at wide open throttle and there was a lot (lot!) less smoke than yesterday. I think this has to do with the fact that I´ve lowered (actually raised the mg/r value via vag-com) the injected quantity. So It must have "cleaned" the whole injection via the rpm range. I can also hear the turbo now for the firs time. It starts to make sound around 1500rpm and feels stronger than I thought 115hp would...
The shudder/vibration at 1500 is still there. I think it will disappear after checking the injectors and probably replacing the nozzles in the future.
In Portugal IF the car is under year 2000, the Katalizator (cat) is not necessary. I haven´t checked mine yet, but, there´s no cat in the downpipe after the turbo (like in the Audi A4 1.9TDi) . I have to check under the car.
I´ll keep you guys updated. Only after solving this little issues I can start remaping the ECU.
And obviously... do the timing test.
When the engine was hot, there was no smoke/haze out of the exhaust. Very clean...
I did a test at wide open throttle and there was a lot (lot!) less smoke than yesterday. I think this has to do with the fact that I´ve lowered (actually raised the mg/r value via vag-com) the injected quantity. So It must have "cleaned" the whole injection via the rpm range. I can also hear the turbo now for the firs time. It starts to make sound around 1500rpm and feels stronger than I thought 115hp would...
The shudder/vibration at 1500 is still there. I think it will disappear after checking the injectors and probably replacing the nozzles in the future.
In Portugal IF the car is under year 2000, the Katalizator (cat) is not necessary. I haven´t checked mine yet, but, there´s no cat in the downpipe after the turbo (like in the Audi A4 1.9TDi) . I have to check under the car.
I´ll keep you guys updated. Only after solving this little issues I can start remaping the ECU.
2,5 tdi aat upgrade
you are wrong about the boost razur..
hf1600....check your advance,and the sound of advance in revs, check glow plugs, the fuel lines to don't have any air present, because it matters at start, the compression test is important, and airleaks or anything else.check the starter also.
you are wrong about the boost razur..
hf1600....check your advance,and the sound of advance in revs, check glow plugs, the fuel lines to don't have any air present, because it matters at start, the compression test is important, and airleaks or anything else.check the starter also.
And this is based on what?sorin_gyo said:
These cars have 2 bar map -> factory has set boost to around 0.8 bars. That is stock value. Just like all AAT and AEL cars I have seen, or driven, which have had stock setup.
And as far as I know, you can't remap ECU to do over 1 bar boost, without changing MAP sensor to bigger one. So how could factory done this?
Boost goes higher, when emp get's higher. With same ecu program and bigger nozzles, there will be higher emp on same injection time -> higher boost pressure.
But if you have better knowledge, please let us know. If your opinion is based on just your car and withouth knowing if there is other modifications or remap already done, you can't be sure. I wan't to learn facts, not "feelings" on things.
raymor
Veteran Member
Injectors where the only thing I farmed out and I didn't get a comfortable feeling about them when I got them back... so maybe.
I'd really love somewhere reputable in the UK to set up my Ultime 2's, but I've not heard of anywhere yet?
HF1600ie
Well-known member
About the timing, can only check tomorrow or so, because the car must be warm enough.
About the turbo pressure, i am pretty sure the stock boost is under 1 bar. About 0,8 or 0,9 bar until 2500rpm (it goes down afterwards).
For various reasons :
- These old TDi engines as well as most of the old turbo-diesel engines, didn´t run on high boost pressures. Just look at the turbos used and the goals of a factory tuning (which is not that performance oriented for a daily car).
- The Map sensor can´t go any higher than 2 bar, which is 1 bar boost + 1 bar atmosphere. So , turbo boost goes over 1 bar (for more than 2 or 3 seconds, let´s say, and you got an error or limp mode.
- The turbo sound when doing max boost is not that "thin" which is a sign of rotations and pressure/work of the internal compressor/turbine. I know this is not that imperative of high or low boost, but it´s a sign.
So, my friend, if your car is doing 1,3 or 1,4 bar, then, you should take a look at your MAP sensor, or you can send me your ECU file and i´ll tell if it´s tuned or not. Other possibility is to have the gauge with wrong readings.
If you have bigger nozzles, you can actually be feeding your turbo more.
And If this pressure is stabilized pressure, you have an error unless the ECU turbo map was raised to match those 1,3 bar and the MAP sensor was a different one, otherwise it would give an error immediatly and get you in to limp mode.
If I am not wrong, this is the way i see it and you probably have some kind of ECU or mechanical changes already to allow those pressures!
About the turbo pressure, i am pretty sure the stock boost is under 1 bar. About 0,8 or 0,9 bar until 2500rpm (it goes down afterwards).
For various reasons :
- These old TDi engines as well as most of the old turbo-diesel engines, didn´t run on high boost pressures. Just look at the turbos used and the goals of a factory tuning (which is not that performance oriented for a daily car).
- The Map sensor can´t go any higher than 2 bar, which is 1 bar boost + 1 bar atmosphere. So , turbo boost goes over 1 bar (for more than 2 or 3 seconds, let´s say, and you got an error or limp mode.
- The turbo sound when doing max boost is not that "thin" which is a sign of rotations and pressure/work of the internal compressor/turbine. I know this is not that imperative of high or low boost, but it´s a sign.
So, my friend, if your car is doing 1,3 or 1,4 bar, then, you should take a look at your MAP sensor, or you can send me your ECU file and i´ll tell if it´s tuned or not. Other possibility is to have the gauge with wrong readings.
If you have bigger nozzles, you can actually be feeding your turbo more.
And If this pressure is stabilized pressure, you have an error unless the ECU turbo map was raised to match those 1,3 bar and the MAP sensor was a different one, otherwise it would give an error immediatly and get you in to limp mode.
If I am not wrong, this is the way i see it and you probably have some kind of ECU or mechanical changes already to allow those pressures!
2,5 tdi aat upgrade
Like you said, my boost is 1,3-1,4 bar in brutal acceleration for 2-3 sec onds.
Correctly
but senzor and ecu is stock, for sure.
maybe boost is increase after nozzles swap.OK. i don't know the original boost...but definitly is not 0,8 bar.maybe 1 for aat or 1,3 for ael
so don't be sure about this values.we are not audi engineers at ingolstadt germany, for sure.
cheers, keep in touch
Like you said, my boost is 1,3-1,4 bar in brutal acceleration for 2-3 sec onds.
Correctly
but senzor and ecu is stock, for sure.
maybe boost is increase after nozzles swap.OK. i don't know the original boost...but definitly is not 0,8 bar.maybe 1 for aat or 1,3 for ael
so don't be sure about this values.we are not audi engineers at ingolstadt germany, for sure.
cheers, keep in touch
ok so before this goes in an unwated place (that wouldn't be benefficial for anyone) I will share my exp (in short):
Stock pressure should be 0.8 as most people say, or at least under 1 bar to loosen the limits. Of course I can't say the exact pressure as I never was curious about measuring OEM.
I had 1.4 bar without limp mode (I am talking about constant pressure, not spikes as above) with OEM MAP, but the turbo was isolated from any control vanes (permanent boost gauge instaled in car - and it works accurate).
I have experienced limp mode usually with pressures exceeding 1.5-1.6 bar but it wasn't constant (first 2-3 drag races went well, afterwards limp mode set in - sometimes). It also was independent of engine switch on/off.
After unplugging the MAP the problem disappeared.
About increasing pressure in this case (spikes I suppose):
could it be due to more uncontrolled fuel delivery > more exhaust gases > elevated EMP > boost spikes?
There was also another thing I forgot. Ah yes:
AAT + AEL nozzles will not work as AEL (pressure, smoke, power, etc). Software is also an important factor. This presuming there are no other differences between the two (if someone knows better please share).
Stock pressure should be 0.8 as most people say, or at least under 1 bar to loosen the limits. Of course I can't say the exact pressure as I never was curious about measuring OEM.
I had 1.4 bar without limp mode (I am talking about constant pressure, not spikes as above) with OEM MAP, but the turbo was isolated from any control vanes (permanent boost gauge instaled in car - and it works accurate).
I have experienced limp mode usually with pressures exceeding 1.5-1.6 bar but it wasn't constant (first 2-3 drag races went well, afterwards limp mode set in - sometimes). It also was independent of engine switch on/off.
After unplugging the MAP the problem disappeared.
About increasing pressure in this case (spikes I suppose):
could it be due to more uncontrolled fuel delivery > more exhaust gases > elevated EMP > boost spikes?
There was also another thing I forgot. Ah yes:
AAT + AEL nozzles will not work as AEL (pressure, smoke, power, etc). Software is also an important factor. This presuming there are no other differences between the two (if someone knows better please share).
HF1600ie
Well-known member
Guys,
I did the timing test today, or at least I tried.
When the test starts ( when I actually switch to basic-settings and then TDi timing "mode"), the rpm start to rise and the engine starts to choke and run very unstable. When this is happening, there´s a HUGE cloud of white smoke that is very embarassing !!
I tried 2 times and quit, because the timing result didn´t appear on the screen (1000rpm or 1200rpm test) and the smoke was huge, and also I was affraid to damage the engine.
I also checked the duty cycle of injection and it´s 70%. Is this OK ? The pump belt also feels to be very tight. I Read that it´s supposed to be 2,5KG stretched, no more tha this. I´m affraid it will prematurely worn it.
At the same time, found my pump is leaking, probably from the back or under it. Is this something easily fixed? Probably some new fuel seal inside the pump? It doesnt squirt, but it´s big enough that in 3 days i could put my hand under the pump and leave with a finger dirted with fuel !
Otherwise, nothing else is leaking in the engine compartiment that I can see (apart from the oil temperature valve, which is very easily fixed).
I did the timing test today, or at least I tried.
When the test starts ( when I actually switch to basic-settings and then TDi timing "mode"), the rpm start to rise and the engine starts to choke and run very unstable. When this is happening, there´s a HUGE cloud of white smoke that is very embarassing !!
I tried 2 times and quit, because the timing result didn´t appear on the screen (1000rpm or 1200rpm test) and the smoke was huge, and also I was affraid to damage the engine.
I also checked the duty cycle of injection and it´s 70%. Is this OK ? The pump belt also feels to be very tight. I Read that it´s supposed to be 2,5KG stretched, no more tha this. I´m affraid it will prematurely worn it.
At the same time, found my pump is leaking, probably from the back or under it. Is this something easily fixed? Probably some new fuel seal inside the pump? It doesnt squirt, but it´s big enough that in 3 days i could put my hand under the pump and leave with a finger dirted with fuel !
Otherwise, nothing else is leaking in the engine compartiment that I can see (apart from the oil temperature valve, which is very easily fixed).
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HF1600: If there won't appear any yellow lines in timing window, then the pumps timing is so much retarded, that it won't even show in there. Try advancing the pump as much as you can, and try again. Timing window also shows the timing in numbers, down bottom of screen. There is fuel temp, advance and some other indications, can't remember anymore without seeing it.
Yellow light appears in timing window if the engine temp is near 80 and (should be seen between 40 and 120 degrees celcius if I remember correctly. And the timing itself is near the correct values, 20 - 60 or near those values.
But if the timing is too retarded, under 20 or so, it might be still seen in those information by numbers down in the window.
Yellow light appears in timing window if the engine temp is near 80 and (should be seen between 40 and 120 degrees celcius if I remember correctly. And the timing itself is near the correct values, 20 - 60 or near those values.
But if the timing is too retarded, under 20 or so, it might be still seen in those information by numbers down in the window.
HF1600ie
Well-known member
Hi,
Do you have any news about the remap to share ?
I´ve prepared my remap, i´m just having trouble writting it to the two Eprom for some reasom. Maybe my programmer is not delivering 12.5v to the 27C512 eprom.
Also, If I want to put my boost in 1,25 bar pressure, it isn´t worth it, because my MAP sensor will give me an error very soon after, probably Limp mode.
I may be wrong, but looking at the maps, there´s a big margin for improvement in this engine, just by tweaking the ECU. Not sure if the torque limiter map is backwards, but looks like.
In the meanwhile I´ve been fixing some minor things and haven´t really put any more Hp in the engine. And first, I have to place new seals in the injection pump ! Just got them with the special too. Something to do in June, probably.
Do you have any news about the remap to share ?
I´ve prepared my remap, i´m just having trouble writting it to the two Eprom for some reasom. Maybe my programmer is not delivering 12.5v to the 27C512 eprom.
Also, If I want to put my boost in 1,25 bar pressure, it isn´t worth it, because my MAP sensor will give me an error very soon after, probably Limp mode.
I may be wrong, but looking at the maps, there´s a big margin for improvement in this engine, just by tweaking the ECU. Not sure if the torque limiter map is backwards, but looks like.
In the meanwhile I´ve been fixing some minor things and haven´t really put any more Hp in the engine. And first, I have to place new seals in the injection pump ! Just got them with the special too. Something to do in June, probably.
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HF1600ie
Well-known member
Guys,
Just to clear things a little bit about the limp mode, i´ve been in contact with a member from another forum and some (probably all models newer than 1995) 2.5 TDi AAT, have a 2,5 bar MAP sensor.
This explains why the boost of 1,4 bar doesnt create limp mode and the boost of 1,6 does it.
And even if the turbo map is requesting something like 0,9 bar boost as a limit, because probably there isn´t a "single value boost limiter" or a "boost limiter map" to work along with the "requested boost map", then... the limiter is in fact the MAP sensor all by itself.
Just my thoughts on this...
Just to clear things a little bit about the limp mode, i´ve been in contact with a member from another forum and some (probably all models newer than 1995) 2.5 TDi AAT, have a 2,5 bar MAP sensor.
This explains why the boost of 1,4 bar doesnt create limp mode and the boost of 1,6 does it.
And even if the turbo map is requesting something like 0,9 bar boost as a limit, because probably there isn´t a "single value boost limiter" or a "boost limiter map" to work along with the "requested boost map", then... the limiter is in fact the MAP sensor all by itself.
Just my thoughts on this...
HF1600ie
Well-known member
I want to put mine at 1,35bar, but the programmer is giving me an error while I attempt to burn the 27C512 eprom.
Anyway, there is no need for sockets in this ECU. The original chips are already socketed !! Just gently remove them and place yours in their place.
Be careful. Once you take the metala cover out you have to gently open the ECU. It opens just like a book. The part that will "open" is the part that have all the pins that receive the wiring loom of the car.
You have to unscrew everything and them gently open the plastic supports that close the ECU like a book.
Anyway, there is no need for sockets in this ECU. The original chips are already socketed !! Just gently remove them and place yours in their place.
Be careful. Once you take the metala cover out you have to gently open the ECU. It opens just like a book. The part that will "open" is the part that have all the pins that receive the wiring loom of the car.
You have to unscrew everything and them gently open the plastic supports that close the ECU like a book.
Take care when removing the eproms as the tiny pins can get damaged easily if you lift one end more than the other. Also check for position (there is a tiny grove on the end of the eprom that I think is facing the socket).
I used to extract them with a tiny screwdriver.
If a pin brakes you could solder it again in place (although I wouldn't recommend that). Better safe than sorry.
I used to extract them with a tiny screwdriver.
If a pin brakes you could solder it again in place (although I wouldn't recommend that). Better safe than sorry.
HF1600ie
Well-known member
Better... you should use an "eprom extractor". It´s a little plastic gadget.
Gently with a very thin screwdriver, lift one of the ends slightly and then the other end so slightly enough to put the extractor and lift everything up at once.
They have a plastic cover. You should remove it too and place it back once fitted again.
Gently with a very thin screwdriver, lift one of the ends slightly and then the other end so slightly enough to put the extractor and lift everything up at once.
They have a plastic cover. You should remove it too and place it back once fitted again.
Take care when removing the eproms as the tiny pins can get damaged easily if you lift one end more than the other. Also check for position (there is a tiny grove on the end of the eprom that I think is facing the socket).
I used to extract them with a tiny screwdriver.
If a pin brakes you could solder it again in place (although I wouldn't recommend that). Better safe than sorry.