Zip tie mod how to?

[Mozambiquer]

I've been trying to find a how-to on the zip tie mod, I guess there used to be one on myturbodiesel, but it appears to be gone. I've used the search function both here and with regular old Google and I find a lot of people talking about it, but no how-to. My main question is how much vacuum to use. I kinda get the jist of the rest of how it works and all.

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6790 using Tapatalk

 

[TDI73]

https://web.archive.org/web/20170715112939/https://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a5/ziptie-turbo.jpg


https://web.archive.org/web/2018060...ustment-tdi-engine-zip-tie-engine-hesitation/

 

[dae06]

I've been using this mod for 4-5 years now. Every once in a while the zip tie breaks and I need to redo it.

Good luck, it's really not too tough once you do it.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I've been using this mod for 4-5 years now. Every once in a while the zip tie breaks and I need to redo it.

Good luck, it's really not too tough once you do it.

How much vacuum did you apply before installing the zip tie?

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6790 using Tapatalk

 

[dae06]

It was a trial and error process. When I finally got it tuned in, I ended up using 11" (I believe) zip ties and used 3 clicks on the zip tie.

For some reason I don't recall needing the vacuum pump (its been a while since I did this), I think the actuator is up until vacuum is applied and then lowers and this is when the zip tie limits the actuator from going too far.

After knowing the correct length of zip tie needed, I sized my zip tie, squeezed the zip tie to make it long and flat and pointed to push down and lassoed the actuator on the turbo from the engine compartment and hooked the other part of the zip tie over the vacuum port as shown in TDI73's first picture. (his zip tie mod was done with the turbo off, so he didn't need to form (squeeze) the zip tie to lasso the actuator)

I hope this makes sense. It still takes a little patience to get it hooked, but really isn't too tough.

I can definitely tell when the zip tie breaks, I lose power at take off and produce black smoke.

I hope this helps

 

[prsa01]

FWIW - because I had read of people's zip-ties breaking and it was easier for me to get around the actuator I ended up using fairly heavy stiff wire. Got it the shape needed to loop around and back up.

I didn't have a vacuum pump available so just forced the actuator fully extended and then sized the wire to shorten its extension by ~ 3/8 inch. If that amount didn't do the trick I would have adjusted more.

Apparently I hit close enough. It ran great that way for the 2 years I owned it.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

Is there any way to do this mod if you do not own a VCDS? It looks like theres some testing involved that requires it... sounds like I've answered my own question but wondering if anything has changed/ evolved over the last 5 years

 

[Rx7145]

Trial and error without VCDS.

 

[pedroYUL]

Yup like Rx says.

Put a zip tie, too short, the car will be a dog. Too long, it will overboost and fault out with probably limp as a result

 

[MrCypherr]

Now this is the first time I am hearing about this but what would be the purpose for this.

 

[Rx7145]

Now this is the first time I am hearing about this but what would be the purpose for this.

Read the links in post #2.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Funny thing, ai remember making this post to fix my car, but I never updated with the results.
It worked for me, I used wire instead of a zip tie and it was like driving a whole new car. I had gotten used to the delay in acceleration and didn't think much of it.
Sadly a few weeks after doing this fix, I hit a deer with that car, then found the 30k mile cam was worn out and ended up trading it for a 2005 f150 heritage.
That was when I learned how important 505.01 spec oil was, and a lot of things like that.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

I think as the weather gets warmer I will finally get around to this, I have a feeling my car will benefit from this. Since mine will be trial and error I think I will use the plastic zip ties until I find the right length, then I will replace it with a metal one.

 

[Rx7145]

Wire might work better because you can untwist it to fine tune adjust it.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

Attempting to do this and am already having a newbie issue as this is the first time I've ever used VCDS.

I dont know if my version is different than the one used in the How-To. (11.11.4 VS 24.7.1). The path must be different, I was able to find an option to LOG "Charge Pressure" but there was no TEST-option.

(The Instructions, according to the link on Post #2)
Plug in VCDS and enter engine module, then basic settings, then use the test "charge pressure control" (group 11). The engine will rev up to 1400 rpm and then the computer will cycle the boost. The boost pressure should go up and down. Anywhere from 80-250 difference between the high and low boost is normal. Too low or too high and engine response will suffer

So at this point, I have the tool but the idiot behind the computer doesnt know what he's doing... Any help would be appreciated. I havent driven the car in a while and am eager to get back into it...

 

[Mozambiquer]

Attempting to do this and am already having a newbie issue as this is the first time I've ever used VCDS.

I dont know if my version is different than the one used in the How-To. (11.11.4 VS 24.7.1). The path must be different, I was able to find an option to LOG "Charge Pressure" but there was no TEST-option.

(The Instructions, according to the link on Post #2)
Plug in VCDS and enter engine module, then basic settings, then use the test "charge pressure control" (group 11). The engine will rev up to 1400 rpm and then the computer will cycle the boost. The boost pressure should go up and down. Anywhere from 80-250 difference between the high and low boost is normal. Too low or too high and engine response will suffer

So at this point, I have the tool but the idiot behind the computer doesnt know what he's doing... Any help would be appreciated. I havent driven the car in a while and am eager to get back into it...

Well all you need to do is update your vcds.

 

[Rx7145]

Just type in 011 to go right to the test, that’s what I do. In engine, basic settings or output tests, one of the two.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

Well all you need to do is update your vcds.

I think you misunderstood what I typed. The write up from 2014 is an older version than the current version

Just type in 011 to go right to the test, that’s what I do. In engine, basic settings or output tests, one of the two.

Thank you. I just tried it but either the car or controller decided that I can’t work on the car at night when it’s not sitting outside, baking under the sun… so I’ll try again tomorrow.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

The write up from 2014 is an older version than the current version

The data group #s won't change from old version to new. Those are hard-coded into the vehicle, and are accessed the same by Vagcom, other 3rd party Vag scanners, and the official machine used by dealers.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

Ok, I THINK I'm getting a grasp on this (sorry, Im an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff)... and sorry for the derail, but maybe this will help future knuckleheads like me...

Here's a few screen grabs I did, where I was manually holding the throttle at certain RPMs (Idle, 1400, and 2000), and then ran the test and grabbed the image of the graph.

Idle

~1400 RPMs

~2000 RPMs

After taking these snapshots, I turned the basic settings on and it began the Test, and I switched to the Graph to screenshot that.

This graph looks drastically different from the graph on the write-up

I still dont know how long this dang zip-tie needs to be LOL...

 

[Rx7145]

It doesn’t look like your turbo is doing anything. When the test is running, can you look at the turbo actuator and see it moving? If it’s not moving, take the vacuum line off the actuator and see if you can feel vacuum.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

It doesn’t look like your turbo is doing anything. When the test is running, can you look at the turbo actuator and see it moving? If it’s not moving, take the vacuum line off the actuator and see if you can feel vacuum.

I think I will finally get some time to try this out. Can you give me a few 'next steps' ? Running the test and pull the vacuum line off->

-How is the turbo supposed to react?
-If it makes no change when removing the vacuum line, then?
-At this point, I think I am ready to just trial and error because I still have no idea how the VCDS will determine how long I will need that ziptie need to be?

Thanks, driving the other car has been fun, except for the >20mpg it gets while my TDI sits.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

Trial+error. 100 zipties are $1.99 or less at harborfright.

 

[Rx7145]

Here is how I did mine you can loosen the clamp and move it up and down as necessary.

Link to picture.

 

[ihredneck]

For mine, after I got the stainless steel ziptie on with the actuator fully engaged (took a mity-vac and connected it to the turbo vane actuator and pulled a vacuum, then snuggled the zip tie up not crazy tight but snug) I ran the test with VCDS. Warm up the engine to operating temp, plug in VCDS and enter engine module, then basic settings, then use the test "charge pressure control" (group 11). The engine will ramp up to 1400 RPM then the vanes will adjust and the Boost Pressure (actual) will fluctuate from a high to low value. The difference between those should be 80-250 mbar, I set mine to 150 mbar. If the range is wider than 80-250 then stop the test and ever so slightly snug the zip tie a bit. Rerun the test and see what results you get. Repeat this until you get the difference between the two readings needed.

 

[jetta_coupe_gtd]

I managed to get a pair of zip ties around it last week. ~50 miles and its better. I will try the test this weekend and see where its at. I also have some SS zip ties and once I have the right length I will swap from plastic to metal to lock it in for good.

Happy to be able to drive the car now at least

 

[ihredneck]

I managed to get a pair of zip ties around it last week. ~50 miles and its better. I will try the test this weekend and see where its at. I also have some SS zip ties and once I have the right length I will swap from plastic to metal to lock it in for good.

Happy to be able to drive the car now at least

Glad to hear it's up and going