454k30
Veteran Member
@shoebear That one will likely work just fine. I used this one from Amazon. It came with a couple of seal pliers which came in useful and also make removing fuel lines a breeze.
A used head can be had for cheap, so its probably not a bad idea to do it on your spare time and get it built up then swap it over one weekend. This is what I will do one day likely. Though about just building a spare motor over time and drop it in once it's all done.if it were me, i would have to take the head off and port it, have it rebuilt - start fresh with a head that hasn't had any egr gunk in it and know the valve valves/guides were also 100%. i'd also be worried that 20k down the line maybe there was a chance of valve guide problem. just depends on the time/$$ you can/want to invest... it would be annoying to go through the effort of doing only the seals to realize soon after maybe something else isn't quite up to snuff. but then you have the head off and wonder if one should be prepared to take it a step farther down the rabbit hole lol..
Me too, nice to see that's not the case, though I probably could have used that info when I did my cam last year lolFor some reason I was thinking you had to pull the head
Yeah I'm kinda hoping to do the same, just have to find a good low mile candidate.A used head can be had for cheap, so its probably not a bad idea to do it on your spare time and get it built up then swap it over one weekend. This is what I will do one day likely. Though about just building a spare motor over time and drop it in once it's all done.
Oh yeah. I also have an 11mm IP to install.I did replace the IP without removing the timing belt, though, so I guess replacing the seals doesn’t need to be tied to that job. Think it would be a good idea at 240k to just replace the cam & lifters if I address the seals? Or just let it all go until the next TB change?
Sounds exactly like my symptoms.This thread seems to have taken a turn, but I also think I have leaking valve stem seals. Blue smoke at start up that quickly clears away, and pretty gradual oil consumption. I’m only 20-24k miles into my timing belt, though. I did replace the IP without removing the timing belt, though, so I guess replacing the seals doesn’t need to be tied to that job. Think it would be a good idea at 240k to just replace the cam & lifters if I address the seals? Or just let it all go until the next TB change?
Always replace lifters with cam. For the cost, it's not worth it. People more experienced with heads than I say they wear together. It makes sense...Oh yeah. I also have an 11mm IP to install.
I was wondering about the lifters also. Do they go bad/wear out? And if the cam looks good (no grooves/rough spots), is it fine to reinstall?
The "rebuild a spare head" idea appeals to me also. I'm a weekend warrior, and the car is my daily driver. I really need to finish projects up over a single weekend if at all possible.
But if my cam is in good shape and I'm not replacing it, should I still get new lifters, or just use the ones I have?Always replace lifters with cam. For the cost, it's not worth it. People more experienced with heads than I say they wear together. It makes sense...
Just leave it be then. Mine looks really good, except for the tiny tiny bit of pitting at the end of lobe 1. I know this can get worse exponentially thoughBut if my cam is in good shape and I'm not replacing it, should I still get new lifters, or just use the ones I have?
Nice, did you order the black-coated lifters as well?Just put my order in with Cascade for a Franko6 stage II kit, valve seals, and a vac pump gasket![]()
The nitride lifters/followers come with the kit:Nice, did you order the black-coated lifters as well?
Also ordered the frankocam from cascade a couple weeks ago, they sent the whole order except for the cam and said it will be shipped direct from Frank when his next batch arrives, still not sure when that will be..
You can always replace just the lifters, but never just the cam. Check for cracks and the little hour glass wear marks that indicate the lifter has stopped rotatingI meant, should one just replace cam & lifters at 240k miles if they have to come out as a matter of course. My cam looked perfectly fine when I replaced the valve cover a couple months ago. I would feel completely confident putting the originals back in after replacing the valve stem seals. But if it's already coming out, it might be prudent just to replace with new anyway since it's no more work to do so.
Well, if you are thinking about replacing it might as well upgrade itI meant, should one just replace cam & lifters at 240k miles if they have to come out as a matter of course. My cam looked perfectly fine when I replaced the valve cover a couple months ago. I would feel completely confident putting the originals back in after replacing the valve stem seals. But if it's already coming out, it might be prudent just to replace with new anyway since it's no more work to do so.