What type of struts are good?

[hangman]

Hey fellas,

I’ve got 140,000 miles on my 2013 JSW. I have the original struts and want to replace them.

is there any particular type or brand of struts that would be best on this car?

Also, I need you guys used those replacement springs that lift the car up @ 2”?

I remember doing some research on this a couple years ago . I believe there may be some specialty tool to get the strut out of “a pocket”? Please let me know if there’s any specialty tools I should pick up?

Thanks!

 

[thatwhitejsw]

Are you looking to 'lift' the car 2"? I'm confused on the phrasing. If so - ID parts sells a lift kit. I just saw a member of the MK6 Sportwagen Owner's fb group post a photo of his newly lifted JSW and he used their kit with the Bilstein TC struts/shocks. And yes there is a strut-spreader tool that ID parts sells as well from Metalnerd

 

[super1]

Hey fellas,

I’ve got 140,000 miles on my 2013 JSW. I have the original struts and want to replace them.

is there any particular type or brand of struts that would be best on this car?

Also, I need you guys used those replacement springs that lift the car up @ 2”?

I remember doing some research on this a couple years ago . I believe there may be some specialty tool to get the strut out of “a pocket”? Please let me know if there’s any specialty tools I should pick up?

Thanks!

I think ID Parts just started a Strut sale & I think ECS Tuning to follow soon

 

[Wilkins]

Bilsteins B4 touring or Koni Special Active have always had good reviews. If you want to stop the rear end from sagging when loaded I’d get the 2WD Tiguan Rear springs 3C0511115AD or 3C0511115AF. The AD will give about a 1/4 in lift from stock and the AF about 1/2 in. They both have the same spring rate which is stiffer than stock but still rides well IMHO. I had the AD’s but one broke a coil, now have AF’s. Rock Auto had the AF’s, great price. The CT ‘towing’ springs give about a 1.5 in lift- too much for me.
People have put 4WD Tiguan front springs in, and various others. Some have had CV joint issues afterwards.

 

[hangman]

Bilsteins B4 touring or Koni Special Active have always had good reviews. If you want to stop the rear end from sagging when loaded I’d get the 2WD Tiguan Rear springs 3C0511115AD or 3C0511115AF. The AD will give about a 1/4 in lift from stock and the AF about 1/2 in. They both have the same spring rate which is stiffer than stock but still rides well IMHO. I had the AD’s but one broke a coil, now have AF’s. Rock Auto had the AF’s, great price. The CT ‘towing’ springs give about a 1.5 in lift- too much for me.
People have put 4WD Tiguan front springs in, and various others. Some have had CV joint issues afterwards.

thanks for the information!!! I found that IDParts also has a replacement coil spring kit for the Jetta MK6 which is supposed to lift the car up about 1 1/2 to 2”. I know that the rear strut is not connected directly to the coil spring. Whereas the front strut has the coil spring around it.

Are there any video tutorials, showing how to remove the front strut/spring assembly. I know there’s a special tool to spread out the “pocket” that the strut connects to. And I know they make spring compression tools but I’m not sure which ones works well? I want make sure that I do this safely. I’ve seen one video where a guy uses a piece of metal and put the bolt through the hole where the sway bar end links was (after removing the sway bar end link). This guy made reference to some people using a 2 x 4. But I’m not sure I could trust a piece of wood.

 

[Reinout]

thanks for the information!!! I found that IDParts also has a replacement coil spring kit for the Jetta MK6 which is supposed to lift the car up about 1 1/2 to 2”. I know that the rear strut is not connected directly to the coil spring. Whereas the front strut has the coil spring around it.

Are there any video tutorials, showing how to remove the front strut/spring assembly. I know there’s a special tool to spread out the “pocket” that the strut connects to. And I know they make spring compression tools but I’m not sure which ones works well? I want make sure that I do this safely. I’ve seen one video where a guy uses a piece of metal and put the bolt through the hole where the sway bar end links was (after removing the sway bar end link). This guy made reference to some people using a 2 x 4. But I’m not sure I could trust a piece of wood.

Removing the assembly is straight forward, but separating the strut from the coil is not as as straight forward and could be dangerous if not done right. Based on your question I would highly suggest doing one of two things: 1) have someone there in-person, with the right tools, to help change it, or 2) take it to a shop to have them change it. I can't suggest trying to figure it out from internet directions. That's just my $0.02.

But here's a YT link:

 

[hangman]

Thanks!

 

[turbobrick240]

I made my own knuckle spreader tool by grinding two flat sides on a 3/8x 1" bolt I had in my coffee can of assorted bolts. Worked great.

 

[Drclaw]

I went with Koni active struts and the ID parts lift kit for my wagon and love it. Get the metalnerd tool, all new hardware (bolts etc..) and new strut cups for the top, bushings etc... do it once do it right. its not a really hard job but can be annoying. Watch a bunch of youtube videos. Hardest part for me was getting the wheel hub assembly onto the strut once installed into the car. Use a jack and pump the hub assembly sloooooowly into place.

 

[turbobrick240]

You'll want a set of triple square/xzn bits(M14 in particular) if you don't already have them. A 21/22 mm strut socket/wrench will also make life much easier, though I managed without by using a pipe wrench on a regular deep socket. You may want to use something like all track struts if you're going to do a 2" lift. I did a 1.5" drop on mine with Vogtland sport springs and am very happy w the Bilstein GTI struts I installed. You can get free "rental" spring compressors from AutoZone. Here's the tools you may need:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Suspension/Tools/Strut/

 

[hangman]

You'll want a set of triple square/xzn bits(M14 in particular) if you don't already have them. A 21/22 mm strut socket/wrench will also make life much easier, though I managed without by using a pipe wrench on a regular deep socket. You may want to use something like all track struts if you're going to do a 2" lift. I did a 1.5" drop on mine with Vogtland sport springs and am very happy w the Bilstein GTI struts I installed. You can get free "rental" spring compressors from AutoZone. Here's the tools you may need:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Suspension/Tools/Strut/

I bought the triple square set years ago when I did the first brake job. I’ll probably buy the spring compressor. And have lots of tools including impact sockets, regular sockets, specialty sockets, a set of German made offset wrenches

I will buy that spreading tool

I was looking at the Bilstein B6 struts. What’s the practical difference between those and other options?

thanks!

 

[hangman]

I went with Koni active struts and the ID parts lift kit for my wagon and love it. Get the metalnerd tool, all new hardware (bolts etc..) and new strut cups for the top, bushings etc... do it once do it right. its not a really hard job but can be annoying. Watch a bunch of youtube videos. Hardest part for me was getting the wheel hub assembly onto the strut once installed into the car. Use a jack and pump the hub assembly sloooooowly into place.

I watch another video online or a guy had welded a metal support “pole”. After removing the sway bar end link he put a bolt in the same spot and through this fabricated metal “bar/pole”. Then he jacked it up slowly I guess to compress the spring before loosening up the pocket for the strut. What is the normal procedure for removing the strut? Do you have to do something by compressing the spring like he did or by using a tool? I’m not sure if trying to compress the spring before trying to spread that “strut pocket” is required? Of course I wanna do this correctly and safely.

 

[hangman]

I watched several videos on YouTube on how to do the front struts. I will be working with jackstands. One guy removed the calipers after disconnecting the ABS plug and the bracket on the knuckle (for the brake line and sensor).

In one video, the guy removed the caliper. On a different video of mechanic had the car on a lift and left the caliper on. Which would be the most practical method of while working with jack stands?

I plan on buying the Bilstein B6 kit with the 2” lift springs. I see guys using spring compression tools that get used with a ratchet. My other option is to bring the new Bilstein B6 struts (with the new lift springs) to a shop to have them assembled. Apparently from one video I watched the rear shocks can be removed without removing the rear spring. Is that correct? If I want to remove those rear springs will that compression kit work? Again, I want to put the new 2 inch lift springs in the rear. Or are there any special considerations? Is it easier to remove that spring after the rear shock/strut is out?

I think one of the guys of mentioned that I should get the new hardware kit when replacing the front struts. If I’m buying the new Bilstein B6 struts does that come with any other components? Or do I need to buy replacement accessories for that?

thanks for any helpful advice

 

[hangman]

I went with Koni active struts and the ID parts lift kit for my wagon and love it. Get the metalnerd tool, all new hardware (bolts etc..) and new strut cups for the top, bushings etc... do it once do it right. its not a really hard job but can be annoying. Watch a bunch of youtube videos. Hardest part for me was getting the wheel hub assembly onto the strut once installed into the car. Use a jack and pump the hub assembly sloooooowly into place.

I contacted the people at ID parts. They say if I’m planning on using the spring lift kit that I’m better off using these Koni struts. Apparently they’re saying that the Bilstein struts with the lift kit may be “too harsh” for my 2013 Sportwagen”

how long have you had those struts in and how many miles have you put on them? Have you been happy with them?

 

[hangman]

I wound up ordering the Koni special active struts (front & rear) along with the coil spring lift kit, and the total hardware kit & strut accessories. And the metalnerd “knuckle pocket” spreader tool.

as far as I know, I have no other front end component wear. Or at least I don’t feel anything out of the ordinary.

I have over 141,000 miles on the vehicle right now. If I’m going to be changing the front struts would it be prudent to change out other components at that time? Because I’m going to need an alignment anyway with the new struts.

Thanks for any helpful advice.

 

[turbobrick240]

I usually replace the sway bar links along with the struts. They're usually pretty worn by that point, and it's often easier to cut them off.

 

[hangman]

Thanks. How about the ball joints? Leave alone until there’s a problem?

 

[turbobrick240]

It would be a convenient time to do the ball joints too, if in doubt. I didn't bother on the last strut job I did last summer, but who knows when they'll go out. There was some play in the front right bearing hub, so that got replaced while I was in there.

 

[hangman]

It would be a convenient time to do the ball joints too, if in doubt. I didn't bother on the last strut job I did last summer, but who knows when they'll go out. There was some play in the front right bearing hub, so that got replaced while I was in there.

do you remember what type of bearing hub you used? I’m keeping notes and planning agead.

 

[turbobrick240]

do you remember what type of bearing hub you used? I’m keeping notes and planning agead.

I think it might have been a brand called WJB- it was cheap at $40 and came with mounting bolts. I probably would have spent a few bucks more for a higher end hub if I planned to drive my Golf for more than a few more years. So far, so good.

 

[hangman]

I have another question. I watched a few videos on YouTube of how to change the front struts. There is a 24 mm 12 point bolt to take out the wheel hub. I’m one of the videos mechanic had a hard time with a half inch breaker bar. He went to a three-quarter inch breaker bar to get that bolt loose.

Does anyone know offhand if I need a regular depth 24mm 12 point impact socket? Or should I be getting a deep socket? I already have a half inch breaker bar for a three-quarter inch breaker bar to be safe. I was going to order one half-inch drive impact socket (for my impact tool after getting it loose). But to initially loosen that bolt I may need to also get a 3/4” drive 24mm impact socket (for the breaker bar)

I plan on spraying everything with penetrating oil the night before. But once again, will I be needing regular depth impact sockets, or deep impact sockets?

thanks for any clarification on this

 

[turbobrick240]

A regular depth 12 pt 24mm socket is good for the axle bolt. You'll only need that if you're replacing the hub/s though. I broke my breaker bar cracking mine loose, but not badly enough that it couldn't get it off and torque it back on. My new hub came with a 6pt replacement bolt, but I'm pretty sure I reused the 12pt factory one. I did use the 4 new mounting bolts it came with.

 

[hangman]

A regular depth 12 pt 24mm socket is good for the axle bolt. You'll only need that if you're replacing the hub/s though. I broke my breaker bar cracking mine loose, but not badly enough that it couldn't get it off and torque it back on. My new hub came with a 6pt replacement bolt, but I'm pretty sure I reused the 12pt factory one. I did use the 4 new mounting bolts it came with.

if I don’t remove the hub from the axle, is there any other way to get the struts out? Is it possible to loosen the control arm bolts and not remove the hub? Will that provide enough clearance to remove the strut?


I have read people talking about using a 2 x4 to compress the coil springs while trying to get this strut out of the knuckle pocket. I’ve watched videos where people have done it successfully and then there are some reported bad results.

Once again, let me know how most of you guys have gotten the strut out? Which method?

Thanks!

 

[turbobrick240]

if I don’t remove the hub from the axle, is there any other way to get the struts out? Is it possible to loosen the control arm bolts and not remove the hub? Will that provide enough clearance to remove the strut?


I have read people talking about using a 2 x4 to compress the coil springs while trying to get this strut out of the knuckle pocket. I’ve watched videos where people have done it successfully and then there are some reported bad results.

Once again, let me know how most of you guys have gotten the strut out? Which method?

Thanks!

All I did on the driver side was detach the ball joint from the control arm to get enough play to remove the strut. The 2x4 thing doesn't sound very safe. I used spring compressors, a 4lb hammer and lots of spray penetrant to dislodge the old struts from the knuckle. Plus my homemade spreader tool.

 

[hangman]

All I did on the driver side was detach the ball joint from the control arm to get enough play to remove the strut. The 2x4 thing doesn't sound very safe. I used spring compressors, a 4lb hammer and lots of spray penetrant to dislodge the old struts from the knuckle. Plus my homemade spreader tool.

The spring compressors was on my checklist. What brand of spring compressors is well-made? Also, do you guys normally use a ratchet and socket or do you use the impact tool while tightening the spring compressor?

 

[turbodieseldyke]

do you guys normally use a ratchet and socket or do you use the impact tool while tightening the spring compressor?

Impact is much quicker. Ratchet is tedious for this task.

 

[hangman]

Which spring compression tool are you guys using?

 

[turbobrick240]

I just have a cheap set I picked up from the auto parts store 20 years ago. They get the job done. Go back and forth on each side as you compress.

 

[Drclaw]

Which spring compression tool are you guys using?

Borrowed mine from local auto parts store

 

[Drclaw]

I watch another video online or a guy had welded a metal support “pole”. After removing the sway bar end link he put a bolt in the same spot and through this fabricated metal “bar/pole”. Then he jacked it up slowly I guess to compress the spring before loosening up the pocket for the strut. What is the normal procedure for removing the strut? Do you have to do something by compressing the spring like he did or by using a tool? I’m not sure if trying to compress the spring before trying to spread that “strut pocket” is required? Of course I wanna do this correctly and safely.

Now that I think of it when you assemble there are two bolts on top of the strut tbag I had a hell of time tightening down. There's a specific tool/socket so you can pass a wrench through for it which I didn't have and made it a lot more difficult than it needed to be.