What should I do?

[MedicPatriot]

I know this is probably a repetitive question lately, but I'm not sure what to do for my settlement. You guys are the only ones who know about TDI's so you're the only people I can relate to.

[estimated] $5,950 Cash settlement, or [estimated] $20, 777 buyback?

Car:

• VW Jetta TDI 2013 w/ DSG 82,000 miles
• regular oil changes (I went over once when I had to do a emergency cross country trip. maybe 3k miles)
• went over DGS fluid change at 56,000 (not too worried since the original recommended limit by VW was 60,000, but what's done is done)
• no mechanical problems at all so far, only minor electrical issues
• about $4,000 owed on car
• mechanical breakdown insurance until 100,000miles

I originally signed the papers for the cash settlement. To me it's easy "free money" for owning a vehicle that I really enjoy driving. That's an important point as well, since I don't have any other cars in mind that I would want to replace this with and I absolutely hate the process of buying cars. It's out of warranty, and I can get an aftermarket tune with the money without any worries, something I really wouldn't mind doing. The tune also will negate the emissions update ruining fuel economy and performance, so that isn't a concern. I originally planned on keeping this car until it fell apart.

On the other hand, now I'm wondering if I could be making a mistake. With the mileage creeping up higher each day, I fear I might regret not taking the $20,000+ buyback if my DSG goes up or something else expensive. I could use the money for a brand new car and not have to worry about anything breaking for a few years. Am I worrying too much about repair costs as the car gets older? That's my main reason to bail out.

What would you do?

 

[Freeze Plug]

you're not going to get any cash until you have the emissions modification done, they don't just give you money for doing nothing

I haven't been following the "fix" aspect closely anymore since both of my cars got bought back already, so I am not sure if a fix has even been approved for your car yet. If/when it is approved, you can get the fix done with an extended emissions warranty, and get your restitution money. short of that or selling the car back, you won't get anything

 

[2015vwgolfdiesel]

I know this is probably a repetitive question lately, but I'm not sure what to do for my settlement. You guys are the only ones who know about TDI's so you're the only people I can relate to.
[estimated] $5,950 Cash settlement, or [estimated] $20, 777 buyback?
Car:

• VW Jetta TDI 2013 w/ DSG 82,000 miles
• regular oil changes (I went over once when I had to do a emergency cross country trip. maybe 3k miles)
• went over DGS fluid change at 56,000 (not too worried since the original recommended limit by VW was 60,000, but what's done is done)
• no mechanical problems at all so far, only minor electrical issues
• about $4,000 owed on car
• mechanical breakdown insurance until 100,000miles

I originally signed the papers for the cash settlement. To me it's easy "free money" for owning a vehicle that I really enjoy driving. That's an important point as well, since I don't have any other cars in mind that I would want to replace this with and I absolutely hate the process of buying cars. It's out of warranty, and I can get an aftermarket tune with the money without any worries, something I really wouldn't mind doing. The tune also will negate the emissions update ruining fuel economy and performance, so that isn't a concern. I originally planned on keeping this car until it fell apart.
On the other hand, now I'm wondering if I could be making a mistake. With the mileage creeping up higher each day, I fear I might regret not taking the $20,000+ buyback if my DSG goes up or something else expensive. I could use the money for a brand new car and not have to worry about anything breaking for a few years. Am I worrying too much about repair costs as the car gets older? That's my main reason to bail out.
What would you do?

$20,777will buy a lot of (a) new car ~~ and you get a new car warranty

Have you looked at new car discounts? Depending on your choice of a new brand, I see offers in the $4,000 -- $6,000 range

If it were me I would bail in a heartbeat to get out of a 82,000 miles car

 

[MedicPatriot]

you're not going to get any cash until you have the emissions modification done, they don't just give you money for doing nothing

I haven't been following the "fix" aspect closely anymore since both of my cars got bought back already, so I am not sure if a fix has even been approved for your car yet. If/when it is approved, you can get the fix done with an extended emissions warranty, and get your restitution money. short of that or selling the car back, you won't get anything

which is fine. If I chose this I would get the emissions update and then just get an aftermarket tune to negate it.

 

[Airpizz6]

which is fine. If I chose this I would get the emissions update and then just get an aftermarket tune to negate it.

One of the good things about the emissions fix if one is approved for your vehicle is the extended warranty which reduces worry in a lot of areas. However, I'd think that an aftermarket tune might invalidate the warranty. Something else to think about.

 

[Fav40]

I'm at 58300 miles and opted for the buyback.

I too had the 100k warranty. You'll get a pro-rated amount back in the form of a check from your dealer. After the buyback, I'll get my warranty $$$ back.

I've taken very good care of my car, but the buy back is still too good to pass up, I no longer drive the miles I did as of a month ago.

It was a tough decision for about 5 minutes for me....and I loved my TDI.

 

[MedicPatriot]

One of the good things about the emissions fix if one is approved for your vehicle is the extended warranty which reduces worry in a lot of areas. However, I'd think that an aftermarket tune might invalidate the warranty. Something else to think about.

I'm thinking they wouldn't know if I was able to tune back to factory settings at will.

 

[2015vwgolfdiesel]

One of the good things about the emissions fix if one is approved for your vehicle is the extended warranty which reduces worry in a lot of areas. However, I'd think that an aftermarket tune might invalidate the warranty. Something else to think about.

Really think it should invalidate the (LONG) warranty

Have no love for vw

But a tune and wanting the fix is whacko X 10

 

[MedicPatriot]

The idea of having major repairs needed on the current TDI is what makes me want to do a buyback now.

very hard decision....

 

[VWTDIWV]

I was debating the same situation signed up for buy back got to the point of bank payoff, switched to fix, and now switching back to buy back.

I paid $14,950 -$1,000 gift cards and with a $21,870 buy back I can't pass it up. Looking for a replacement now. Although I'll prob hold out and drive it another 12 months, why not it's free miles

 

[DanB36]

Well, yes, there are a few things that could break and, if they did, would get very expensive very quickly. The biggest concern is the HPFP, probably followed by the DPF. The DPF won't disable your car, though, at least not for quite a while. IMO, the concern about the HPFP is overblown--if it happens, it's an expensive repair, but the odds of it happening are, as best as I understand, about 1%. The DSG, from all I've seen, is quite durable and reliable--I would't particularly worry about that.

As no fix has been approved for your car yet, it's impossible to say what (if any) effect it will have on economy or performance.

What does your "mechanical breakdown insurance" cover? Is it just a form of a comprehensive extended warranty, or is it narrower? If the former, the easy answer is to keep driving the car until the middle of next year, and see what things look like then. If it's narrower, how narrow?

 

[CHawk]

Kick the can down the road.

You don't need to make a decision until later next year. Because the settlement locks in your depreciation as of September 2015, additional miles on your current vehicle (even if more than 12,000/year) are cheap. Over the next year and a half,

1) get an idea of your maintenance/repair issues. Are you staring near-term at $2K-$3K of repairs? Include tires, suspension components, transmission, belts, etc. This alone can tip the balance of benefits from fix to buyback.
2) take stock of your own transportation situation. Many people are doing buybacks because the car they bought 4 years ago no longer fits their needs. Children, change of work location, moving from an apartment into a house, or a change in the spouse's vehicle might make a pickup or SUV a more practical alternative.
3) see what the fix (if any) is and whether it impacts economy or performance. Realize as well that, despite warrantees, emissions components might not be as reliable as they were originally.
4) See what other vehicles become available and at what price. Gas engine technology has continued to evolve in the 6+ years since I bought my 2011 Golf TDI. For example, the Golf gasser in 2011 had the pathetic 2.5L 5-cyl engine. With the buyback, I could almost trade my TDI straight up for a 2017 Golf gasser, a much better engine with plenty of power, give up maybe a couple of MPG from my TDI but have virtually zero maintenance costs for the next 3 years. Plenty of other efficient vehicles for ~21K-~24K, and more will be updated or introduced in the next 18 months.

 

[rsiegfried]

I'm also uncertain of what to do. I have a 2014 Passat TDI. With only 30,000 miles. 2 1/2 years left on the loan. I have a 100K extended warranty. I love the car. This is my third TDI (2006 Jetta - Totaled in MVA, 2009 Touareg that my brother now has). I bought it from a trusted VW salesman that passed away (Chris Farnham) so I no longer has a trusted source. I have nothing else that I really want since I really like the diesel. MB is more than I want to spend. If I had to I would consider a Mini?
So many TDI owners are bailing out that I am starting to think that I am making a mistake by hoping for a fix that will maintain drivability. Would love to hear thoughts from others who are NOT bailing out but holding out for a fix.

 

[MedicPatriot]

I'm leaning towards buyback now guys.

Minus finance charges and upkeep, it makes it as if I had this car for free for 3.5 years. As much as I hate to part with the car, having a brand new car in the same exact financial situation as I am now is pretty hard to pass up.

I have no idea what I'd replace it with though.

 

[Fav40]

My 14' TDI SEL Passat was my very first VW and I've got no hate towards them. Car was great for 3yrs, fun to drive, roomy and great in the snow with snow tires. Plus better on fuel than anything I've owned thus far.
Got $1000.00 for the "Sorry" and more for the car than any conditioned sale could.

I liked the Passat so much and the DSG....I opted for a V6 SEL Premium.
Maybe an Atlas or new Tiquan in 5-6 years. VW hasn't lost me yet.

 

[sandmansans]

I know this is probably a repetitive question lately, but I'm not sure what to do for my settlement. You guys are the only ones who know about TDI's so you're the only people I can relate to.

[estimated] $5,950 Cash settlement, or [estimated] $20, 777 buyback?

Car:

• VW Jetta TDI 2013 w/ DSG 82,000 miles
• regular oil changes (I went over once when I had to do a emergency cross country trip. maybe 3k miles)
• went over DGS fluid change at 56,000 (not too worried since the original recommended limit by VW was 60,000, but what's done is done)
• no mechanical problems at all so far, only minor electrical issues
• about $4,000 owed on car
• mechanical breakdown insurance until 100,000miles

I originally signed the papers for the cash settlement. To me it's easy "free money" for owning a vehicle that I really enjoy driving. That's an important point as well, since I don't have any other cars in mind that I would want to replace this with and I absolutely hate the process of buying cars. It's out of warranty, and I can get an aftermarket tune with the money without any worries, something I really wouldn't mind doing. The tune also will negate the emissions update ruining fuel economy and performance, so that isn't a concern. I originally planned on keeping this car until it fell apart.

On the other hand, now I'm wondering if I could be making a mistake. With the mileage creeping up higher each day, I fear I might regret not taking the $20,000+ buyback if my DSG goes up or something else expensive. I could use the money for a brand new car and not have to worry about anything breaking for a few years. Am I worrying too much about repair costs as the car gets older? That's my main reason to bail out.

What would you do?

Hi Medic

So first off, only you know what is best for your specific situation but here is my 2 cents.
Regarding the statements that others have posted that 20k will buy you a lot of new car that's a big NO. If you choose buy back for that, remember you're going to find yourself with a new source of debt as anything comparable will cost more than 20 grand. Not to mentiom, new cars take a huge depreciation hit when you first buy. In reality you will only have 16k to go car shopping with after paying off your loan. Lol you can't find anything worthwhile brand new for 16k.
2. Regarding your concerns etc. It is valid, but not specifically the parts you're worried about. The dsg is a pretty stout and reliable component. I haven't seen any fail on here etc. While it is a pita to keep up with the maintenance especially if you drive as much as me, they're reliable. The component that will without a doubt 100% fail eventually is your DPF. There's really nothing you can do about this, it's just the nature of its design. The normal life for them seems to be around 150 k or so, but some have seen them fail much sooner. I'm sure others have gone longer though. However, there are options regarding for when it does fail.
A. You go with an off road mod and you never have to worry about a dpf again
B you replace it. I don't know what the cost is associated in replacing ,but I would imagine that after a while it would go down in price as almost any new technology does over time. That and other companies will develop aftermarket systems that will nudge the oe one to drop in price. That's just basic macro economics 101.
Another fail component on these cars is the HPFP system. Despite the hysteria on this forum sometimes, failure is pretty uncommon. I could be wrong, but if I'm not mistaken it's less than 1 percent. But when it does fail the cost is catastrophic.
This too though has an easy remedy in taking a proactive step in replacing the cp4 hpfp with a cp3 as many have done on here. Once you do that, no more fear of a grenading pump.
**with those issues though, remember almost any new car you decide to go with will have its own unique and expensive fix components.

3. I would say though if you're in a situation as mine, to where your finances changed for the worse since purchasing the car. At that point take the buy back. Pay off your loan and spend about 5-6k on something used. You will have money left over and no more monthly payment.

Like I said only you know what's best for you. I'd say this, if your finances /commute /driving habits etc. Haven't changed from when you first got the car. And you still like the car. .keep the car and take the fix. You know what you have. You know what to expect in terms of repairs.
I would be doing this if it weren't for my finances.

Best of luck to you.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[dbias]

My 14' TDI SEL Passat was my very first VW and I've got no hate towards them. Car was great for 3yrs, fun to drive, roomy and great in the snow with snow tires. Plus better on fuel than anything I've owned thus far.
Got $1000.00 for the "Sorry" and more for the car than any conditioned sale could.

I liked the Passat so much and the DSG....I opted for a V6 SEL Premium.
Maybe an Atlas or new Tiquan in 5-6 years. VW hasn't lost me yet.

How does the v6 compare? My buyback is March 18th which is 2 years and 3 days from the day I bought it. I've looked high and low and can't really find the room and handling and highway performance I've grown to love.

 

[MedicPatriot]

The way I'm thinking about it now, as long as I stick to my budget for the new car, taking the buyback just results in me in almost the same exact financial situation with the same debt as I am in now, except with a brand new car. I basically would have driven my TDI for 3.5 years for free, minus finance and repair charges.

I guess I'd be crazy not to take the buyback :\

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I have no idea what I'd replace it with though.

This is probably the tipping point in your decision. If you find something you like as better, or well enough to let the TDI go, then the choice is pretty easy.

Every car is an expense. And as cars age things break. But FWIW, we hear of very, very few HPFP or DPF failures, and very few intercooler icing incidents. DSGs are very reliable. Flywheels can fail at around 200K miles, but that's considered service life for those. Despite what people write here, thinking of your car as a time bomb that's going to kick you with some major expense soon is probably misleading.

But even if something does fail, with a fix you'll get an extended warranty on the emissions system and some cash back for repairs.

My .02 would be to go shopping. You'll have a better idea about what to do after you look at potential replacement vehicles.

 

[Rico567]

My assessment is that someone who is experiencing angst over the mileage piling up is a candidate for buyback. Just keep the car until late 2018 to roll up as many of those cheap miles as possible.

 

[2015vwgolfdiesel]

I'm leaning towards buyback now guys.

Minus finance charges and upkeep, it makes it as if I had this car for free for 3.5 years. As much as I hate to part with the car, having a brand new car in the same exact financial situation as I am now is pretty hard to pass up.

I have no idea what I'd replace it with though.

I think the buy back is a good choice for yout situation. Good luck on a replacement

Tell us what you replacement car is

 

[Fav40]

How does the v6 compare? My buyback is March 18th which is 2 years and 3 days from the day I bought it. I've looked high and low and can't really find the room and handling and highway performance I've grown to love.

PM'd ya the full comparo, but you didn't mention efficiency

The V6/DSG seemed smoother, more powerful, less efficient, similar or more fun vs TDI depending on road, individual etc. Sounds better too. Paddle shifters were cool. I'm probably looking at 8-12k a year now for work/play. TDI was great for 3.4yrs and the buyback was VW's way of saying, now try the V6 that you originally wanted

 

[Dr Chill]

The answer is very simple. Assuming you have adequate tire tread and brake life remaining, just drive the car until the warranty is near expired at 100,000 miles, then let VW buy it back. Then you will looking at new 2018 vehicles or a used 16 model or 17 leftover and have more money toward the new car since the buyback amount won't change very much but the money you owe on the present car will be significantly lower. Just don't spend another dime unnecessarily on your current car. If you need new tires or brakes, do the BB earlier.

Nothing beats a new car, assuming you choose correctly.

 

[wbclassics]

The answer is very simple. Assuming you have adequate tire tread and brake life remaining, just drive the car until the warranty is near expired at 100,000 miles, then let VW buy it back.

Maybe if you live in South Florida it is that simple of a decision.

If you live in a colder climate, there are other factors that complicate the process. I've been putting off starting the buyback process until today. In the past two weeks, I've experienced frozen non-latching door locks (again - happened under warranty previously). And last night, I have symptoms of a frozen intercooler (again - happened 3 previous times under warranty).

I can't be bothered to deal with a car that doesn't work at random times when it is cold out. This is a modern car, it is absurd that doors don't latch when it is cold or that it doesn't start due to a design fault (that has a factory fix WHICH DOES NOT WORK!).

Dump the car, it is a turd.

 

[Dr Chill]

Maybe if you live in South Florida it is that simple of a decision.

If you live in a colder climate, there are other factors that complicate the process. I've been putting off starting the buyback process until today. In the past two weeks, I've experienced frozen non-latching door locks (again - happened under warranty previously). And last night, I have symptoms of a frozen intercooler (again - happened 3 previous times under warranty).

I can't be bothered to deal with a car that doesn't work at random times when it is cold out. This is a modern car, it is absurd that doors don't latch when it is cold or that it doesn't start due to a design fault (that has a factory fix WHICH DOES NOT WORK!).

Dump the car, it is a turd.

Or, move to sunny FL!!!

 

[Galo]

I've a 2010 6mt with 109.6k miles on it and I signed up for the fix for a couple reasons:
- I really, really like this car
- With one newish car in the family, I don't want/need another one, nor car payments, etc
- The very healthy warranty I will get after 'the fix'
- with the cash, I'll be able to cover the timing belt, new shocks, the lower GLI springs, aftermarket rear sway bar and any new parts the suspension rebuild will need, fixing my stupid dead radio, replacing the torn driver seat's bottom cushion and I'll still have enough left over for a Revo or Malone tune.

What's 110k miles to a diesel? Damn thing is just broken in....

That said, I'll be taking a good, long, hard look at the 2018 Jetta GLI when it comes out. MQB platform (same as my wife's 2015 A3 which is a stunning driver), more 'edgy' styling (read: less 'Passat bland') and well under $30k

 

[2015vwgolfdiesel]

Maybe if you live in South Florida it is that simple of a decision.

If you live in a colder climate, there are other factors that complicate the process. I've been putting off starting the buyback process until today. In the past two weeks, I've experienced frozen non-latching door locks (again - happened under warranty previously). And last night, I have symptoms of a frozen intercooler (again - happened 3 previous times under warranty).

I can't be bothered to deal with a car that doesn't work at random times when it is cold out. This is a modern car, it is absurd that doors don't latch when it is cold or that it doesn't start due to a design fault (that has a factory fix WHICH DOES NOT WORK!).

Dump the car, it is a turd.

Okies have the best of cold weather ~~ mostly

I have seen minus 15 degrees ~~ and many less than zero F. days

KEEPING the car in an attached garage at night helps ~~ and when you take a vehicle out on a cold day, at least it is warmer in the day time. Might even have the advantage of some SUN too

 

[turbobrick240]

I like IBW's advice the best. Go drive some cars. If you find something you like better, go for it.

 

[CHawk]

I've a 2010 6mt with 109.6k miles on it and I signed up for the fix for a couple reasons:

- I really, really like this car
- With one newish car in the family, I don't want/need another one, nor car payments, etc
- The very healthy warranty I will get after 'the fix'
- with the cash, I'll be able to cover the timing belt, new shocks, the lower GLI springs, aftermarket rear sway bar and any new parts the suspension rebuild will need, fixing my stupid dead radio, replacing the torn driver seat's bottom cushion and I'll still have enough left over for a Revo or Malone tune.

What's 110k miles to a diesel? Damn thing is just broken in....

That said, I'll be taking a good, long, hard look at the 2018 Jetta GLI when it comes out. MQB platform (same as my wife's 2015 A3 which is a stunning driver), more 'edgy' styling (read: less 'Passat bland') and well under $30k

Well, that's the thing--the automotive market is a moving target. By the end of the buyback period, probably 30-40% of current vehicles will have undergone some change--mid-cycle facelifts and upgrades, new 2018 models, and the introduction late next year of new 2019 models. Look for more safety system/driver assistance technology (blind-spot monitoring, lane departure warning, backup cameras [required by mid-2018], etc.)--even if offered now, expect more of this to become standard and in lower-priced vehicles; more powerful and efficient engines with more refined transmissions; connectivity options galore; and new, lighter vehicle platforms.

I might also add this: the used car market is getting better for buyers. Numerous articles have been written lately about a sea-change in the post-recession used car market (e.g., http://blog.caranddriver.com/the-go...the-bad-news-your-car-is-depreciating-faster/). Used car prices had been at historic highs for the past 6 years or so (from 2009-2011, new car production was drastically scaled back, depriving the used car market of millions of vehicles and thereby forcing prices up). What isn't a moving target is the value of our own vehicles. The unique structure of the settlement allows us to continue to operate our vehicles, depreciation free, while we decide the appropriate time to make our decision on buyback or fix (if any). Ultimately, the decision will boil down to a myriad of factors that are unique to the individual and their vehicle, particularly their financial situation and needs vs. wants in a transportation device.

 

[2015vwgolfdiesel]

Well, that's the thing--the automotive market is a moving target. By the end of the buyback period, probably 30-40% of current vehicles will have undergone some change--mid-cycle facelifts and upgrades, new 2018 models, and the introduction late next year of new 2019 models. Look for more safety system/driver assistance technology (blind-spot monitoring, lane departure warning, backup cameras [required by mid-2018], etc.)--even if offered now, expect more of this to become standard and in lower-priced vehicles; more powerful and efficient engines with more refined transmissions; connectivity options galore; and new, lighter vehicle platforms.

I might also add this: the used car market is getting better for buyers. Numerous articles have been written lately about a sea-change in the post-recession used car market (e.g., http://blog.caranddriver.com/the-go...the-bad-news-your-car-is-depreciating-faster/). Used car prices had been at historic highs for the past 6 years or so (from 2009-2011, new car production was drastically scaled back, depriving the used car market of millions of vehicles and thereby forcing prices up). What isn't a moving target is the value of our own vehicles. The unique structure of the settlement allows us to continue to operate our vehicles, depreciation free, while we decide the appropriate time to make our decision on buyback or fix (if any). Ultimately, the decision will boil down to a myriad of factors that are unique to the individual and their vehicle, particularly their financial situation and needs vs. wants in a transportation device.

Love this part ~~

At the same time, average incentive spending on new vehicles—or the amount automakers spend on cutting deals with consumers to boost sales—hit an all-time high of $4001 last year. J.D. Power data says incentives are expected to continue to grow this year.