What did you do to your MkVI-A6 today?

[Nuje]

Okay, what the hell! Those side spoiler pieces actually look pretty good! I think I might buy those!

I bought a set for my Mk7 - they really do finish off the back of the car nicely (seeing wagons without them now....they just look naked).

 

[MrCypherr]

I bought a set for my Mk7 - they really do finish off the back of the car nicely (seeing wagons without them now....they just look naked).

Im assuming its just double sided tape thats holding these on?

 

[Nuje]

Yep. The original "W3" tape on there lasted a couple years, then they started to move around some at the bottom. Scraped that off and put on some actual 3M tape and it's lasted four years now and continues to look factory.

I thought about painting them, but the black actually melds in nicely with the tinted rear glass. Thought I had a photo, but this is all I had (poor lighting doesn't really show them off that well).

 

[TomR]

I installed the DieselGeek intake flap limiting block and cleared the P2015 fault- easy fix

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

My son purchased an '11 JSW a year ago. Unfortunately at the end of last year he hit a deer (or rather, the deer hit him). The car suffered significant damage, including passenger seat and side airbay deployment.

Our guru was able to source a hood, bumper, seats, fender, and both doors in the same color from a single wreck. After struggling with multiple airbag codes and having the seatbelts rebuilt, the car is code-free and running again. And we just had it cleaned up pending return to my son, who's been driving his '02 Golf for the past couple months.

It took a long time to find this car. We're happy we were able to save it.

 

[Tujeez]

2012 CJAA 140k mi.
Last week I paid to replace my DPF and EGR filter. ($3k)
this weekend, I re-did my rear brakes ($260) because when I did them in a hurry 9 months ago, I didn’t clean the slider pin holes good enough and my caliper was dragging. OEM rotors and pads. The rotors and pads I had before were really dusty.
Also replaced coolant expansion tank ($15) and rotated wheels/tires ($0).

next on the list is front brakes, replace leaking injector plates and find oil leak on front/bottom of engine.

 

[pkhoury]

Finally got around to replacing front swaybar links and one outer tierod end on my ex's 2011 JSW. I can't get enough leverage to knock the driver's side tie rod end out, so I might need to put it on a friend's lift or have someone else do it. If I had the funds and it were my car, I would've just replaced both knuckles as well, because putting in new struts a few months ago was a f***ing b**tch! I've done it with a new knuckle on my 2013 a year ago, and SOOO much easier! Hopefully I'll get it back to her on Tuesday so she can start driving it. And for the potential comments about her being ex - she's my best friend, and I'm happy she's moving from a Nissan Rogue to the JSW.

 

[pkhoury]

My son purchased an '11 JSW a year ago. Unfortunately at the end of last year he hit a deer (or rather, the deer hit him). The car suffered significant damage, including passenger seat and side airbay deployment.

Our guru was able to source a hood, bumper, seats, fender, and both doors in the same color from a single wreck. After struggling with multiple airbag codes and having the seatbelts rebuilt, the car is code-free and running again. And we just had it cleaned up pending return to my son, who's been driving his '02 Golf for the past couple months.

It took a long time to find this car. We're happy we were able to save it.

That must've been a helluva deer. I had one T-bone the driver's side of my 2010 JSW, and it caved in most of the door, but nowhere near as bad as your son's car. I much prefer deer accidents when driving the F-450. I had two deer T-bone me the same night, and believe me, my dogs were happy. 21 degrees outside, and my 11 year old stayed with that dead deer ALL night long.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I think it was big: He said it was a buck that climbed an embankment to his right and jumped over the guardrail right into his car. Nothing he could do.

While it was here I had it lifted.

My son lives on a dirt road and works at a construction site, and he's in the snow belt of Massachusetts. The lift on his Golf has saved him many times over the years.

 

[Wilkins]

Finally got around to replacing front swaybar links and one outer tierod end on my ex's 2011 JSW. I can't get enough leverage to knock the driver's side tie rod end out,

Try running the steering lock to lock- worked for me

 

[Hbtfurther]

Started a brake/rotor swap on my '14 Mk6. Had everything laid out and ready to go...

Fronts went on easy peezy.
Then I got to the rears.

Undid the rear caliper, smooth, no problem. Got to the upper 14mm triple square, it was a tight fit but managed to knock it loose. And then I ran into a problem. Specifically, a bent rear tie rod problem.

I need to get this replaced before I can access the lower 14mm triple square bolt.
Although the tie rod is less than $30 and seemingly only has 2 bolts, how hard or easy will this be to replace? I'm concerned that while it looks super easy, it also is attached to the lower control arm and I haven't done that before.

I've searched all over for a how-to video on rear tie rod replacement but haven't come up with any info. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Henry
***Edit: some folks call this a rear tie rod. Others call it a rear toe arm. VW part number 1K0501529H or 1K0501529J-Arm. Rod. Lateral. (Rear,Upper).

***Follow up. April 9 2024

Rear lateral arm/ tie rod replacements were super easy. (Quotes from 2 shops were $300-400 for one side and $700 for both.) I did both sides for under a $100 including 2 rear tie rods and the triple square bit kit. You will need 18mm socket and wrench plus 21mm socket and wrench. The upper sway bar mount needs to removed as well. Sway bar bolts were 10nvm Triplesquare. 20nm to retighten.

***Big Note for rear brake calipers-Rear slider pins for 2014 jsw mk6 (5K0698470A). The pin with the rubber bushing goes on top/highest position of the caliper. Confirmed with ID parts...They are awesome, shipped on time and answered my questions.

 

[pkhoury]

Try running the steering lock to lock- worked for me

I might have to try that in the future. For now, I'm just going to get it aligned and get it back to her, so she can try to offload her Rogue.

 

[calimustang]

now... now... this JSW....

I was doing the rear hub bearing replacements, due to approaching 200k miles and the vibrations nonstop has gotten on my nerves lately, front hub bearings are done few months ago, it helped somewhat, plus the rear right shock was dead, had to replace all at once.

I also noticed left rear hub was making so much drag which made me to do more effort to roll it, the right rear was fairly easy to rotate. noticed both pads had uneven wear so then I noticed the caliper guide pins had almost no grease.... it just became into dry old white grease that crumbled out as I took the pins out. I was in disbelief. mind you, she is approaching 200k miles as I got her at 20k miles on Sept 2018, she never grabbed brakes like my old 2011 JSW could, the old JSW could slam brakes hard and have the passenger's face on the dash, guaranteed but this 2014 cant! now I know why.........

think about this... average TDI's at the buyback program sat 2-/+ years with only 20k miles does the number on the grease, made me wish I looked into this back then, VW with their monkeys (their so called VW technicians) cant even freaking figure out why she don't stop good.....

so the pads on one side had about 50% on L and R and other pads about 20 percent left. they are actual originals parts. not bad!

Anyway, someone at local euro shop overtorqued the left rear hub bearing bolt............ thus me trying to get it loose with the breaker bar with at least 140 lbs of torque, it wont move. tried 160-180 then 200... stripped! I have to replace the knuckle and gonna give this shop a earful with the old knuckle. right rear was torqued right, left rear wasnt. obviously 2 different techs at that euro shop............. shame!

2014 JSW hub bearing dilemma

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[Speedmaster_102]

Any advice / tips for doing the brakes? I live in the rust belt and a bit nervous to tackle the front and rear brake job.

Started a brake/rotor swap on my '14 Mk6. Had everything laid out and ready to go...

Fronts went on easy peezy.
Then I got to the rears.

Undid the rear caliper, smooth, no problem. Got to the upper 14mm triple square, it was a tight fit but managed to knock it loose. And then I ran into a problem. Specifically, a bent rear tie rod problem.

I need to get this replaced before I can access the lower 14mm triple square bolt.
Although the tie rod is less than $30 and seemingly only has 2 bolts, how hard or easy will this be to replace? I'm concerned that while it looks super easy, it also is attached to the lower control arm and I haven't done that before.

I've searched all over for a how-to video on rear tie rod replacement but haven't come up with any info. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Henry
***Edit: some folks call this a rear tie rod. Others call it a rear toe arm. VW part number 1K0501529H or 1K0501529J-Arm. Rod. Lateral. (Rear,Upper).

***Follow up. April 9 2024

Rear lateral arm/ tie rod replacements were super easy. (Quotes from 2 shops were $300-400 for one side and $700 for both.) I did both sides for under a $100 including 2 rear tie rods and the triple square bit kit. You will need 18mm socket and wrench plus 21mm socket and wrench. The upper sway bar mount needs to removed as well. Sway bar bolts were 10nvm Triplesquare. 20nm to retighten.

***Big Note for rear brake calipers-Rear slider pins for 2014 jsw mk6 (5K0698470A). The pin with the rubber bushing goes on top/highest position of the caliper. Confirmed with ID parts...They are awesome, shipped on time and answered my questions.

 

[calimustang]

you being in the rust belt area.... when you jack the car up, test the hub bearing for any excessive wiggle or noises by testing it with the tire on.

once you take the wheel off, if it looks rusty on the center ring of the rotor you may need to use some wd-40 specialist rust release penetrant spray on the rotor in the middle where it mates with the hub bearing area then let it soak for few minutes and you need to be prepared to have the rotors stuck on the hub bearing... use rubber mallet, if it doesn't work, use real hammer to bang the rotor out if hub bearing is excessively rusty, you may need to replace them. if minor rust, then use wire brush the hub bearing.

take pictures and post it on here if you can.

 

[chrisjot]

Well after years of lurking, and after my third TDI wagon, decided to join in.

Last was a 2013 JSW that I owned for just two years (2004 BEW before that), but it was totaled after a hit and run left the driver side scraped and dented tip to tail. Replaced it with a 2014 with half the miles (68k), and far fewer than half the quirks.

First thing I noticed is the pedal response seems to be a bit more muted for the first quarter or so of push. I see this as a good thing as the 2013 was at times a bit touchy and would result in wheel spin when I was simply trying to make a turn in a hurry. Now if it's needed can still push it, but for around town it's much smoother. Don't know if this was a change or just a difference between two cars. Anybody know if they made changes for the final year?

And don't know if it's related (or real), but none of the surging RPMs at low throttle that I had previously (and read about others having here). At times it would cause a noticeable jerking to the point of annoying passengers. So far none in the places I would notice it during the commute in the 2014.

Looking forward to the relative reset in miles and having many more years in a TDI. Below is from the 700 mile drive back after the purchase.

 

[calimustang]

ahh another twin! my old 2011 JSW (bought her new) and now 2014 JSW, both are twin just like yours.

 

[Fogcat]

At 154K had to replace the thermostat, While apart we wiped out the EGR. It was relatively OK after 40K since replacement under VW warranty work.

 

[wonneber]

I turned off the #$$%&*# Hill Hold function on my '14 JSW 6spd.

I'm curious what you didn't like about hill holder?
My 2014 JSW DSG has it and I like it.
Just had the trans fluid and filter changed and it seem taking off from an uphill stop is smoother and not slightly bumpy.

 

[wonneber]

My 14 jsw warms up substantially faster than my a4/b4/a5 did. Based on what I have read and have observed, for emissions reasons, it fast idles and runs in a manner to speed warmup and get the cat working . The temp needle moves much faster than on my previous models. I'm in a colder environment than either of you and no coolant heater. Don't know if 14 acts any differently than earlier years

Do you/your wife know about triggering the electric supplemental heating?
Recirculate on
Heat at max
Fan on 2 or 3

Hope that helps

Well I learned something.
Does that work if the cold car is running while I'm cleaning the snow off?
I know diesels have to be driving down the road to heat up but sometimes I have trouble with ice & snow on the windshield.
TIA
Rich W.

 

[97B4TDi]

Changed my oil, air filter and fuel filter

 

[calimustang]

just rolled into big 200k today! she has been running flawlessly. timing belt service is coming up...... last one was at 70k or 75k? miles.

bought her at 20k miles on Sept 2018, 25k miles deleted with cp3 swap.

 

[turbobrick240]

I put new rear calipers/rotors/pads on my Golf yesterday. And a new driver side fender today. Nice thing about gloss black paint is my rattle can paint job actually matches up pretty well.

 

[ksing44]

I had some stuff done, added a couple of things, and washed my 2010 MK6 Golf TDI (manual) with 205K miles.

New windshield - OEM VW from Safelite - replaced severely pitted original windshield after 200K+ miles​

New wheels - APEX SM10 17" x 8.5" ET43 - quite light with aggressive fitment, feels more nimble and secure but less damping​

New rear lower control arms (original were very rusty and thin) and alignment​

New rear brakes and calipers​

Stainless doorsills - covered a dent on driver side of unknown origin​

New GOLF floor mats​

It feels very good driving my clean car with the new bits!

New wheels

Stainless doorsills

New GOLF mats

on Flickr

 

[turbobrick240]

Nice wheels! New wheels and tires have to be one of the most satisfying upgrades.

 

[ksing44]

^^I think they're pretty good wheels. I like them, but I loved the old wheels too. They were also upgraded from the original wheels, quite a while ago, but they were refurbished VW wheels and the finish was so bad I had two wheels leaking air. It just seemed like too much of a process to get the old wheels refinished, so I went for new that are also light and quite a bit different lookng than the previous wheels.

I'm trying to refurbish things in my car so I can keep driving it and enjoying it for as long as I can. I also have a 2019 Mk7.5 Golf R (manual), but it's my garage queen. My big extravagance is having 2 VW Golfs!

 

[turbobrick240]

I can absolutely sympathize with that. My machined/anthracite 5 spoke Elbrus wheels are beloved to me, but the machined finish is in rough shape after 12 years. And they don't make them anymore. I think I'll try my hand at refinishing them.

 

[turbobrick240]

Well, about two hours of tedious labor and a sheet of 180 grit + a quarter sheet of 2000 grit has one of my Elbrus wheels looking nearly brand new. Luckily I only had to sand the machined surface. Mr. Miagi would be proud. Now I need to find a super durable clear coat.

 

[pipesta]

Finally found time to get my GTI bumper fitted up and off to the body shop.

 

[ksing44]

^^Wow, nice one! That's a mean machine for sure.