What did you do to your MKIV today?

[jmodge]

Did you add beads of weld to help pull the inner race?

I just r&r'd a rear wheel bearing yesterday. Couple taps with a chisel where race and axle stub meet, and it moved enough to get the puller arms on it.

Yes, couple beads to heat it and give it a spot to set the air chisel on. Took less than a minute

 

[Powder Hound]

One of this past week's projects was to bleed the brakes on all 4 vehicles in my driveway.

My wife's Audi A4 had the brake wear light show up and she panicked in her call to me after she got to her office. I tried to figure out which one from her description, and got it. I ended up pulling all 4 wheels off and took a good look at the brake pads, and all 4 corners were just fine. It boiled down to a broken wire on one of the pads' wear sensor wires.

I wasn't interested in buying a new set of pads halfway through the lifetime of the old ones, and since the indicator stuff is OK on the other side, I just clipped the wires and soldered the ends to spoof the wear indicator. Had to test both sides of course.

Anyway, since I was there already I decided it was high time to flush all 4 cars. By judicious use of a single can of ATE Super Blue (it was new, just never before used) and another quart of regular fluid bought at a FLAPS, the stable is ready to go. Yay!

Cheers,

PH

 

[Zak99b5]

R&R'd the left rear abs sensor. After removing the rotor, I used an angle grinder to cut off almost all the sensor. A few good whacks abs it was out. Installing the new one was not easy. A lot of tapping to slowly get it in its hole, even though I cleaned out the bore to bare metal.

Now the ABS module is happy enough to eliminate the blinking BRAKE light.

ABS light is still on as the front right sensor is bad. I thought it might be the connector since the locking tab is bent out, so I used a zip tie over it to keep it locked. But I still get an instant code for that one (no others), which means I'll have to replace it.

 

[csstevej]

I take a Dremel with a sanding drum and open the hole up a smidge , also take a file to the ABS sensor on the out side. A little bit of anti seize and no issues get it in ……also a lot easier getting back out…..

 

[Zak99b5]

I'm hoping never to have to remove an abs sensor again.... famous last words.

 

[norbert77]

Did you add beads of weld to help pull the inner race?

I just r&r'd a rear wheel bearing yesterday. Couple taps with a chisel where race and axle stub meet, and it moved enough to get the puller arms on it.

Probably welded the race so heat will make it expand and easier to pull off.

Welding also removes the heat treat so you can use air chisels

 

[norbert77]

I'm hoping never to have to remove an abs sensor again.... famous last words.

My abs light just came on...

 

[Zak99b5]

My abs light just came on...

Scan it with vag com.

 

[jmodge]

Probably welded the race so heat will make it expand and easier to pull off.

Welding also removes the heat treat so you can use air chisels

Welding is quicker and hotter than a torch to expand the race. I should have said air hammer, it practically slides off with little effort

 

[kennethsime]

I seem to have acquired more parts than I have time to install, once again. My to-do list is getting long:

• Thermostat & Coolant Temp Sensor
• Rear brakes + e-brake cable adjustment
• Skid plate & side skirts
• Driver's side Tail light socket

I thought I'd knock off the easiest of them with the tail light socket today and realized I had ordered the Sedan version. Luckily I found an OEM Wagon version in just a few minutes of eBay searching. If anyone else happens to need one, here it is for even less than I paid.

I did notice that both of my Parking/Reverse bulbs are missing (bulb 3, counting from the top), and was able to fish out a broken bulb from one side by removing the whole housing. So at least I've got one less thing rattling around in my car, at least.

 

[hey_allen]

Getting ready for my move to Oklahoma, just did all four rotors and pads, as well as the rear calipers on my Jetta.
At 393,000 miles, this is the first time I've changed calipers, and the only real issue was they wouldn't reliable release the parking brakes, even with new cables and helper springs.
If course Murphy had to get involved, and the lower right front guide pin stripped the threads in the knuckle, so a helicoil type kit was sourced to fix that as well.

I also finally took the time to pull the oil heat exchanger to replace the leaky seals.
A messy job, but hopefully that was all that was still leaking.

 

[norbert77]

Went to check timing. Engine too cold. Stays at 67 celsius.
So, a thermostat and rad are going in soon

 

[Zak99b5]

Look who gets to R&R a rear wheel speed sensor!

 

[norbert77]

Look who gets to R&R a rear wheel speed sensor!

That's why I put it up, as soon as I saw it I remembered your post

Interesting though, it seems like every time I hit a big bump in the road, the ABS light goes off for a couple dozen miles

 

[Taildragger03]

Finished installing a PD150 intake.
Straight forward on the ALH. Darkside provides a cleaned manifold. EGR valve cleaned up and the adapter with silicone hose puts it all together.
You will have to relocate the shutter valve vacuum valve as the PD150 does not have a mounting location.

 

[P2B]

Interesting though, every time I hit a big bump in the road, the ABS light goes off for a couple dozen miles

This probably means you have a rusty tone ring which is rubbing on the speed sensor but hasn't completely trashed it yet - hence the intermittent fault.

You need to repair or replace the tone ring. No point replacing the sensor only.

 

[AGTDI]

Threw in DLC520 nozzles.
Old nozzles probably had 275k on them and were getting smoky and mileage was creeping down.

Had to hammer mod the IP to get IQ down to 3.5. Went pretty smoothly.

 

[J_dude]

Got back yesterday from Manitoba, Jetta has another 2000 or so km on it now. Last week I hammered my IQ back from 2.5 to around 5.6-ish to get rid of some smoke, and my fuel economy did improve on this last trip. However 5.2 liters per 100 km is still not good enough for me (I have a few small boost leaks I need to deal with).
But I think I may dial my IQ back some more as it still leaves clouds if I romp on it in 5th (there was an idiot with Alberta plates puttering along in left lane, disrupting traffic, so I let him have it lol, didn’t help my fuel economy but he did move over).

 

[norbert77]

More abuse to report, 1st time I did this in 18 years. Parked at a bank,. I backed out and drive away, but there was a bit of a curb sticking out I didn't see, and I drove right up on it. Scraped my rocker a bit. Bad Norbert.

IQ adjusting and hammer mod, when or how often necessary? Mine smokes a lot. Are subframe mounts a thing to change?

 

[pkhoury]

Went to check timing. Engine too cold. Stays at 67 celsius.
So, a thermostat and rad are going in soon

That's about where I put my timing.

 

[pkhoury]

What I did today... finally installed some of my junkyard finds. No more cloth seats in either Golf.



Also got these nice leather handbrake covers, so all the Mk4s here are getting this upgrade.



"New" seat rail covers for both sides, and I'll probably do the 2000 Golf when I get back.





I didn't get this floormat recently, but it is a junkyard find and fits perfectly. Wish I had a Golf emblazoned side for the passenger (those all say Jetta on them).



Pulled the clip from a GTI to go into the 2000 Golf to keep my temp sensor in place. Got the same from a GLI that went on the 2002 Golf. The irony being I placed an order with the dealer last week to go along with my windshield.



Oh, and not pictured - replaced my Bosal tow bar. There was more play than I wanted to see on the receiver, which I attributed to when I was rear ended last August. The replacement has NO play.

 

[Judson]

Got my girl back from Brandon in FC. New compressor and thermostat. A/c is blowing colder than for in a long time and the temp is staying steady at just under 90C. It was wandering between 80 and 95C before.

 

[Zak99b5]

Replaced the tensioner and idler pulley.

Last summer I replaced the shock on the tensioner, but it was leaking fluid all over. Realized the pulley on it was bad. Also discovered that the idler pulley was bad when I went to change out the alt clutch pulley (which was good).

No more bearing rrrrrrrrrrrr.

Is it normal for a tensioner to vibrate at idle?

 

[Nero Morg]

Replaced the tensioner and idler pulley.

Last summer I replaced the shock on the tensioner, but it was leaking fluid all over. Realized the pulley on it was bad. Also discovered that the idler pulley was bad when I went to change out the alt clutch pulley (which was good).

No more bearing rrrrrrrrrrrr.

Is it normal for a tensioner to vibrate at idle?

Totally normal, it's taking up the slack in the belt caused by engine oscillations.

 

[norbert77]

Started making crunching noises at no power slow speed rolling. goes away with slight throttle. Acted like bad engine mount, but does it with engine off rolling. Cv or wheel bearing...

 

[Powder Hound]

Bad outer CV joints click in turns. Bad inner CV joints make the steering wheel shimmy on acceleration. Bad wheel bearings growl all the time.

Cheers,

PH

 

[norbert77]

Bad outer CV joints click in turns. Bad inner CV joints make the steering wheel shimmy on acceleration. Bad wheel bearings growl all the time.

Cheers,

PH

It's none of those three...

 

[JDSwan87]

Started making crunching noises at no power slow speed rolling. goes away with slight throttle. Acted like bad engine mount, but does it with engine off rolling. Cv or wheel bearing...

Brake rotor dust shields?

 

[Powder Hound]

It's none of those three...

Glad I could help. Sounds like jack stands and looking underneath is in your future...

Cheers,

PH

 

[norbert77]

no, it's a sound I haven't heard from a car in 29 years of driving. Al I never had go is an inside cv joint, it's probably it. cracked, or a disintgrated wheel bearing roller, I had that about 19 years ago and it made a strange sound as well