That's pretty pathetic. CV boots should last way longer - our 2003 wagon is still running all original factory boots.I installed them in November 2018. They have around 115k on them. Yeah I'm definitely going to be replacing them asap.
Pop the tapered part of the ball joint out of the knuckle, and the tie rod end off the knuckle. Then you can pull the knuckle towards you to clear the axle stub. Reassemble and you won't have to get it realigned.Yeah I was kind of shocked/ a bit upset. Especially with that meaning I have to tear the front end back apart, again, and will now probably have to get two alignments. Can't have the car down.
I get stuff like that cause I bet they don't like to pay the warranty...but a pair of boots is small beer. It is the work to get at it that makes it expensive. Is why I would have no issue paying $70 for a timing belt if it had that much more engineering/material/life in it vs say a Dayco Isoran.The boots on Raxles are warrantied for life along with the axles themselves. I don’t know how shipping is figured though.
How long did you have the raxles for? I have a weird noise at higher RPMs, and I'm not 100% but thinking it's my passenger side axle. When ID Parts gets stock back, I'm gonna order one and replace it (pretty sure I already replaced the driver's side). I learned my lesson in the past - don't dick around with junkyard axles, and rebuilding yourself is a recipe for failure.Yes, "Beef on a budget" is a set of all 4 springs that i.d. parts sells, and they are Moog brand. I know most everyone on here says these springs don't really wear out, but mine were SOFT. Car looks alot better now. Today I replaced the front springs, front struts/ strut bearings/ mounts, lca bushings, and inner and outer tie rods. And of course when I took it apart, I find BOTH of my Raxles have torn outer boots, and have slung grease everywhere. So I get to sort of redo this job in the very near future. On a positive note, the car feels 100 times better even without an alignment, no more crazy noises, etc. Don't really want to get an alignment before I re boot the Raxles, but don't want to ruin my tires either.
You'll be happy. I have .230 on my car. I've debated on toying with my IQ some. The car could use a bit more oomph, but I've always been getting 42-45mpg, which is great in my hilly part of the country. I do miss my car sounding and feeling like my BEW when I'd lay on that throttle, though. I want to say my IQ is somewhere around 4.0-4.2..230s. I'll probably do a writeup one I'm done, just for fun. I'll be happy if she starts like normal. There was a lot of work done that one time so you always wonder if it's going to be okay...
Just over 3 years, and about 115k miles. This is the first and only issue I've had with them. I'm still liking the new suspension alot, although I've not put many miles on it at all yet. LOL those vans look so funny. I know all too well about the have to get an alignment. Last time I replaced my tie rods (by the way, I'll never buy an aftermarket tie rod again, wore out one set in 20k miles), I had measured the old length, and set the new ones to that length, but something wasn't close enough, and I ruined two perfectly good tires very quickly, because I kept putting off getting an alignment.How long did you have the raxles for? I have a weird noise at higher RPMs, and I'm not 100% but thinking it's my passenger side axle. When ID Parts gets stock back, I'm gonna order one and replace it (pretty sure I already replaced the driver's side). I learned my lesson in the past - don't dick around with junkyard axles, and rebuilding yourself is a recipe for failure.
I agree with you on springs wearing out. I like the springs on my Jetta Sportwagen, but I feel like they're a lot softer than when they were new. They're only sport springs, so less lowering than racing springs, but they're pretty low. To the point where if I swap out for towing springs on the rear, my car looks like one of those small paratransit minivans in the rear!
Oh, and you HAVE to get an alignment now. I've only once ever seen someone get an alignment done right by hand, but that was on my 1995 F-450, which already has lower tolerances anyways. I did inner and outer tierods on both ALH Golfs, and HAD to do an alignment right afterwards. I just put on my crappiest tires and took it to Firestone (which was about 50 miles away). And put my normal alloy rims with my Continentals afterwards.
Ha, I ruined tires driving to the alignment shop. I'm out in Bandera County, and the nearest Firestone (because I opted for the lifetime alignment deal) is about 50-ish miles away. Thankfully, they were tires from the stealership that I could care less about (those tires they brag about being new, but they're the $40 Walmart Chineseium specials). I'm pretty sure my tie rods were GKN, supplied by IDparts. I'd like to think they're holding up good, as I've probably put on about 22-24K-ish miles on them (got this Golf in April and already racked up 26K for 2021).Just over 3 years, and about 115k miles. This is the first and only issue I've had with them. I'm still liking the new suspension alot, although I've not put many miles on it at all yet. LOL those vans look so funny. I know all too well about the have to get an alignment. Last time I replaced my tie rods (by the way, I'll never buy an aftermarket tie rod again, wore out one set in 20k miles), I had measured the old length, and set the new ones to that length, but something wasn't close enough, and I ruined two perfectly good tires very quickly, because I kept putting off getting an alignment.
You have me beat. I only have two. It's weird - I love my 2013 JSW. Love how it's more modern, faster, 6 speed, etc. But all in all, my mk4 is my daily driver. Who would've thunk...i drove mine.. I have three. I drive them all over the place. Drives Kalifornia comrades crazy.
They did eventually, but yeah, makes you wonder why they didn't from the start. The whole naming thing is weird anyways. F-150 or 1500 - what the hell is it supposed to mean? It's obviously not a ton and a half truck, because that's what the F-Super Duty is. I guess F-150 sounds better than like F-50.I'm almost certain that's where I got my last set, but they didn't last for crap. I bought Vw brand this time in hopes of them actually lasting. Those miles add up quickly don't they? It's funny to me they didn't just call those trucks F450's from the factory. Alot of people get confused and think of the 99+ super duty trucks when you say F Superduty. Makes sense about the title though.
Probably not. It really shouldn't do that. I'd look at fueling just off idle, perhaps an adjust to the tune is needed.Would advancing the IP timing to the top of the graph help my car get off the line with the a/c on without bogging down? Just curious.
I personally have mine set just below the middle of normal timing and advanced timing. So I have both power and fuel economy.Would advancing the IP timing to the top of the graph help my car get off the line with the a/c on without bogging down? Just curious.
Quick car update: Found while getting the ecodes ready for sale, that I had a euro headlight switch that was much, MUCH nicer than the one I had. Swapped it out. I can't figure out when I bought it or why but this one feels great to turn on. Just another nice little surprise upgrade.
Note to self: I should really update my decades-old post about my car and take a bunch of pics....
Semantics I know. But an f250 is much more useful than an f150. My f150 has a payload capacity of like 1050 pounds. And I think an f250 has a payload capacity of like 3500 pounds. Modern half tons are designed to haul groceriesThey did eventually, but yeah, makes you wonder why they didn't from the start. The whole naming thing is weird anyways. F-150 or 1500 - what the hell is it supposed to mean? It's obviously not a ton and a half truck, because that's what the F-Super Duty is. I guess F-150 sounds better than like F-50.
I always cringe when I see any 99+ truck that says Superduty. I keep thinking "yeah, there's no way you could use an F-250 with a service bed, a crane,hydraulic crap, and the higher duty cycles you'd expect out of an F-450 or F-550."
Yes, that's true as far as it goes. Dialing it in with VCDS is fine tuning the static timing. To change dynamic timing you would use Adaptation. Never messed with that myself. I remember seeing some old posts recommending static right in the middle, then adapting it to slightly advanced..I believe Changing static timing only has an affect at cranking speeds. Once the engine starts timing is controlled by the ecu
That I didn’t know, going to have to look into thatYes, that's true as far as it goes. Dialing it in with VCDS is fine tuning the static timing. To change dynamic timing you would use Adaptation. Never messed with that myself. I remember seeing some old posts recommending static right in the middle, then adapting it to slightly advanced..