KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
My car came with a partially red TDI emblem:That's sexy, let us know how it turns out, I might do the same mod,
My car came with a partially red TDI emblem:That's sexy, let us know how it turns out, I might do the same mod,
I just looked over you Jetta from that link below, man it looks amazing. Keep up the good work. I might steel some ideas from that tread of yours.Thanks. I had actually already found all the other parts in new condition except for this one and the dead pedal (but since the dead pedal takes such a beating, I haven't really been looking.) The only used one in my car was the driver's door handle, and until now I had been using the best one I could find on eBay which was still pretty dented and dinged. I even went as far as adding a GLI handbrake with the "satin" button, and a Lupo light switch with the brushed looked. I cheated a little and also added the chrome-tipped window controls and fuel/trunk release buttons in the driver's door. There's also a company in Germany that makes illuminated shifters, and you can select a brushed look for those too. And, there's a guy on eBay who makes brushed aluminum levers for the armrest door (out of actual aluminum.) Oh, and I got a brushed sideview mirror switch from Litke.
Is that cosmetic, or did someone put PD130-equivalent parts in it (or a PD130 engine?)My car came with a partially red TDI emblem:
It's cosmetic. Although I'm starting to put together some go fast goodies after having this car stock since I bought it.Is that cosmetic, or did someone put PD130-equivalent parts in it (or a PD130 engine?)
Nice find! CongratsIt only took me 5 years of looking, but I finally found a pristine one of these via new-old-stock on eBay. I got the last one but I'm afraid to install it now!
i went through the same a while back. Frustrating.Changed reman starter out for new eBay one, still no start. Changed ignition switch, starts right up. Also snapped the negative battery cable tightening bolt... pair of small vice grips pinching terminal together temporarily till I visit a junkyard....
Looks like cv joint grease. Your boot even looks funny as the fold nearest the wheel looks odd. Like that boot is constructed in 2 pieces, which I've never seen before.
Looks like the shop who did my suspension last week ****ed something up. Looks like bearing grease? Black from a distance, green in the light. It's surrounding the CV Boot, but also seems to have been flung all over the wheel well:
Will email them the pics, and give them a call Monday morning.
I just watched some YouTube videos and checked out the parts from ID. It looks a lot like they removed the retention clip on the boot and just forgot to put it back on. That, or perhaps it just fell off?Looks like cv joint grease. Your boot even looks funny as the fold nearest the wheel looks odd. Like that boot is constructed in 2 pieces, which I've never seen before.
No reason at all To touch the boot. One may Drive the outer cv joint out of the wheel bearing to get the ball joint out of the LCA, though it’s not necessary if you also remove the ball joint stud from the wheel bearing housing. Were the ball joints also replaced?I just watched some YouTube videos and checked out the parts from ID. It looks a lot like they removed the retention clip on the boot and just forgot to put it back on. That, or perhaps it just fell off?
Is there any reason to remove the CV boot when replacing shocks, struts, control arm bushings, and tie rods?
Why is it smoking? Worn out rings?Drove my wagon for the first time in two weeks today. Tired of it smoking, so I'm driving it less til the replacement engine is ready.
No, I don't believe they did the ball joints (although I asked them too, it didn't show up on the work order). May have been a simple coincidence then - still, hard to miss something like this, and would've been easy to throw in a boot kit and charge me an extra $100. I may just order the parts on ID and do it myself.No reason at all To touch the boot. One may Drive the outer cv joint out of the wheel bearing to get the ball joint out of the LCA, though it’s not necessary if you also remove the ball joint stud from the wheel bearing housing. Were the ball joints also replaced?
Just an FYI, rebooting the outer CV joint is a PITA. I haven't done a VW yet, but I've done plenty on other cars. It can be hard to get that outer joint off the axle - the worst part of the job. Cleaning the innards isn't too bad- I've always completely disassembled them but I'm not sure that is really recommended as the balls/race/cage are no longer matched up. It's certainly a dirty job.No, I don't believe they did the ball joints (although I asked them too, it didn't show up on the work order). May have been a simple coincidence then - still, hard to miss something like this, and would've been easy to throw in a boot kit and charge me an extra $100. I may just order the parts on ID and do it myself.
If the boot is intact (kinda looks like it in the photo) I'd be tempted to just inject some grease, replace the clamp, and call it good. I have even seen heavy cable ties used instead of the proper clamp - not necessarily recommending it, but have seen them work.No, I don't believe they did the ball joints (although I asked them too, it didn't show up on the work order). May have been a simple coincidence then - still, hard to miss something like this, and would've been easy to throw in a boot kit and charge me an extra $100. I may just order the parts on ID and do it myself.
I have a few things probably causing it, like a cylinder head with 360+k miles on it, plus garbage injectors. Just doing a shotgun repair at this point due to the desire to keep the car for a long time.Why is it smoking? Worn out rings?
Mine smokes more now with the stage 3 tune. Which they did warn me it would. I only thought it would be while getting on the throttle though.
It looks like replacing the whole axle with a new one would be an easier job, but a new OEM axle is pretty expensive. Man that is a great video - love his sense of humor.Just an FYI, rebooting the outer CV joint is a PITA. I haven't done a VW yet, but I've done plenty on other cars. It can be hard to get that outer joint off the axle - the worst part of the job. Cleaning the innards isn't too bad- I've always completely disassembled them but I'm not sure that is really recommended as the balls/race/cage are no longer matched up. It's certainly a dirty job.
edit: I saw this method - I'll have to give this a try next time .
I think that might be the move. I'm kind of hoping the shop will tell me tomorrow morning "oh yea, our bad" and take care of it, but I'm not crossing my fingers.If the boot is intact (kinda looks like it in the photo) I'd be tempted to just inject some grease, replace the clamp, and call it good. I have even seen heavy cable ties used instead of the proper clamp - not necessarily recommending it, but have seen them work.
That's why shops just replace the whole axle - much easier. Trouble is, a lot of new and rebuilt axles are junk anymore.It looks like replacing the whole axle with a new one would be an easier job, but a new OEM axle is pretty expensive. Man that is a great video - love his sense of humor.
Yea, that totally makes sense.That's why shops just replace the whole axle - much easier. Trouble is, a lot of new and rebuilt axles are junk anymore.
If you can pop the ball joint out, you won't need to realign it. That might give you enough clearance to get the axle out. Then again, you can do the alignment yourself too - there's only toe to deal with.Any thoughts on the axles sold at ID Parts? They have OEM at ~ $300, and what look like high quality aftermarket (GKN or Febi-Bilstein) for about ~$70. Febi-Bilstein sure makes some nice parts, but I'm not sure about axles. Then again, $70 + an alignment is a hell of a lot more attractive than $300 + an alignment.
How are the quality of the boots on the GKN rebuilds? Oem ones are nice, but some of the aftermarket ones last a year then are toast. I unfortunately know from personal experience...If you can pop the ball joint out, you won't need to realign it. That might give you enough clearance to get the axle out. Then again, you can do the alignment yourself too - there's only toe to deal with.
Regarding axles on ID parts - I don't have firsthand knowledge. I needed inner joints and bought GKN inners from them and 'rebuilt' my original axles. I haven't needed to replace an outer yet, but I did buy one as a spare (also GKN brand).