What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Rrusse11]

Mukgyver,
Can't really give a yea or nay on the above. I do know that with the 02J and its brass synchros you have to be careful with the mentioned "friction modifiers", some of them can eat brass. I've always just used Pennzoil Synchromesh, which is low tech dino oil, and about $8/qt, you need 2.

Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid

Pennzoil Synchromesh manual transmission fluids are designed for General Motors or Chrysler manual transaxles and transmissions.

www.pennzoil.com

 

[03TDICommuter]

Is this the right stuff ? . Looks pretty thin for gear oil. just want to be sure before changing out the oil tomorrow. thanks

To me it looks fine. I see most people buy the Pennzoil stuff from Autozone/their local parts store. That's where I bought mine for my Geo Metro. Note that this fluid is really thin - it's not like the 75W80 gear oil you're used to on other cars.

 

[PakProtector]

The stuff that goes in should be about motor oil. The 5W40 that goes in the crank case would not be the worst to feed the gearbox with. Some small advantage to gentle EP modifiers specified in the GL4 spec( can't get too nuts anyway since the beast has brass synchros ), but not much. Get it a bit overfilled if you can is more important than detail chemistry.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[MukGyver]

Thanks guys, I saw somewhere last night safe with yellow metals so I should be fine and will change it out today. Also ran across a tdiclub thread that confirmed its use. Interesting the no viscosity weight on the bottle. apparently the viscosity and temperature stay linear with "newtonian" fluids. Ha, just when I thought I knew something about oil I realize there's a lot more to learn.

 

[snakeye]

I'm surprised you can still find that stuff. A few years back I looked all over the place, not even GM dealers had it so I gave up and used the vw fluid.

 

[MukGyver]

I'm surprised you can still find that stuff. A few years back I looked all over the place, not even GM dealers had it so I gave up and used the vw fluid.

Snakeye, I don't know if the below part number info is helpful. I found it selling out there on ebay and the other giant store.

GM (AcDelco) Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
Canada PN: 89021808
USA PN: 88900333, formerly 12345349

 

[jmodge]

NAPA carries it around here

 

[MukGyver]

Pennzoil synchromesh from what I found so far is nearly the same stuff as GM synchromsh.. and maybe a little lower price. So for those unable to find GM synchromesh you may consider Pennzoil. Who knows maybe it's better. Found this Pennzoil reply presented to someone who inquired to Pennzoil.

"The synchromesh fluid that Pennzoil-Quaker State makes meets the warranty and performance requirements of the GM 12345349 part number for your application. It is not the same fluid that is in the GM synchromesh fluid package, so you can make your purchase choice based on price if you choose.

If you have any other questions or comments, please contact us at 1-800-458-4998, M thru F, 8am to 5pm, CST."

 

[KrashDH]

Pennzoil synchromesh from what I found so far is nearly the same stuff as GM synchromsh.. and maybe a little lower price. So for those unable to find GM synchromesh you may consider Pennzoil. Who knows maybe it's better. Found this Pennzoil reply presented to someone who inquired to Pennzoil.

"The synchromesh fluid that Pennzoil-Quaker State makes meets the warranty and performance requirements of the GM 12345349 part number for your application. It is not the same fluid that is in the GM synchromesh fluid package, so you can make your purchase choice based on price if you choose.

If you have any other questions or comments, please contact us at 1-800-458-4998, M thru F, 8am to 5pm, CST."

FWIW, I read that Pennzoil owns the rights to the "synchromesh" blend, so the GM stuff isn't "different". They just buy the right to it to be able to produce the fluid with the GM name. Same same, either will work great

 

[vandermic07]

I used the ACdelco syncromech with FM in my 01 for 150K miles. Just did a flush and changed to Pennzoil Syncromesh. Works the same in my opinion.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Installed the replacement latch module in my driver's door on Saturday, using the idParts how-to video as a reference.

Unlike the vehicle in the video, my regulator clips didn't have hex bolts - I found torx bolts instead (T27). One turned but very stiffly , the other rounded out the splines instantly the first time I tried to turn it. Had to drill off the head to release the clip, then vice grips on the remaining bit to remove the remains of the bolt. Replaced the broken bolt with an M6x1.0 Hex bolt (16mm length); the other one spun better once I soaked the clips down with penetrating oil (both had a lot of that fluffy aluminum oxidation on them, so I figure the steel bolts galled into them), so I left it alone. I have extra bolts in case I have trouble with that one in the future.

Other than that, it was a fairly straightforward job. When testing the new latch before reassembly, I discovered by accident that unless you have the big connector plugged back into the power window motor, you don't seem to have power to the latch assembly's lock motor. I figure there's a common ground or something that is coming through that big connector. Oh, and props to VW for shaping the door and latch so that there's no fiddling around to "align" the latch within the door before tightening up the triple-square bolts - just bolt in and go.

Also, to my great surprise, I discovered that at least my driver's front door does NOT have plastic regulator clips - both are fully aluminum, and look like the ones described as "new" (down to the torx bolts) in this post over at VWVortex: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/di...ule.1015107/post-9506802?force_isolation=true.

I've always assumed that my car had the plastic clips (VW must have thought so too, because I got the recall letter for them, but when it got near the end of the 7-year time limit I asked my dealer about it and was told "if you're not having problems with the windows, it's better not to mess with them"), and I am pretty sure the regulator panels have never been disturbed before I pulled the driver's one on Saturday.

This Jetta was built in late 2001 in Puebla as a 2002 model, and I took possession at the start of November of that year as the first (and only) owner. Is it possible it was built with the revised clips?

 

[JDSwan87]

As someone who works in an automobile final assembly complex, it's absolutely possible you got the new clips from the factory. New part revisions are constantly being put out and it's very possible VW ran out of the old ones and ran the next revision. The only time it's really a concern parts wise is when there is a model year change over accompanied by a refresh of some sort (think face lift).

 

[Nero Morg]

When I did the drivers door lock on my wagon I noticed it had the torx for the windows as well, but didn't think anything of it. Weird it was another one of the tiny mid model changes.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

As someone who works in an automobile final assembly complex, it's absolutely possible you got the new clips from the factory. New part revisions are constantly being put out and it's very possible VW ran out of the old ones and ran the next revision. The only time it's really a concern parts wise is when there is a model year change over accompanied by a refresh of some sort (think face lift).

That's what I'm choosing to believe - either way, I've got (at least on the driver's door that gets the most window down/up cycles) the revised clips.

Only downside is that I can't claim to have survived all these years on the plastic ones, but I think I can live with that...

 

[CableJockey]

Today, I hit approximately 700 miles since my battery was last disconnected and the EDC15 seems to have finally figured out the PIDs for boost control again.
Much longer than expected, but at least I don't have to be cautious with the go pedal any longer.

It was spiking above 30psi, dropping to 25psi, and creeping slowly upwards before suddenly dropping to 15psi: nerve-wracking on a new turbo... At half throttle, flat ground, on stock tune! **My fueling is a tad heavy, but not much: 520s and 11mm IP**
(Before anyone gets excited, this was directly correlated to disconnecting my battery for a few hours... Boost control prior was solid)

Annoyingly, I now have a shrill boost leak above about 7psi.... Probably the PD150 EGR/ASV hose-clip thingy that refuses to sit still (It has never held firmly, even when shiny and new. But that's a different story of numerous vendor complications that I'd prefer not to get into again)

Anyone know if the PD150 EGR/ASV hose-clip-thing has the same dimensions as the BEW?

 

[Nevada_TDI]

I broke one of the clip tabs that holds in the CTS...the guys that installed it put the clip in upside down, so there was nothing to grab onto to remove the clip.
I am now on the hunt for a coolant temperature sensor manifold, all suggestions are welcome.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

Thanks guys, I saw somewhere last night safe with yellow metals so I should be fine and will change it out today. Also ran across a tdiclub thread that confirmed its use. Interesting the no viscosity weight on the bottle. apparently the viscosity and temperature stay linear with "newtonian" fluids. Ha, just when I thought I knew something about oil I realize there's a lot more to learn.

Will you please explain what a Newtonian fluid is?
I have a corn starch explanation if necessary.

 

[SilverGhost]

Installed the replacement latch module in my driver's door on Saturday, using the idParts how-to video as a reference.

Unlike the vehicle in the video, my regulator clips didn't have hex bolts - I found torx bolts instead (T27). One turned but very stiffly , the other rounded out the splines instantly the first time I tried to turn it. Had to drill off the head to release the clip, then vice grips on the remaining bit to remove the remains of the bolt. Replaced the broken bolt with an M6x1.0 Hex bolt (16mm length); the other one spun better once I soaked the clips down with penetrating oil (both had a lot of that fluffy aluminum oxidation on them, so I figure the steel bolts galled into them), so I left it alone. I have extra bolts in case I have trouble with that one in the future.

<clipped>>

There are no T27 anywhere on the car. But T27 wrench fits T30 surprisingly well. The window regulator clips are T30.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

There are no T27 anywhere on the car. But T27 wrench fits T30 surprisingly well. The window regulator clips are T30.

Ah, that makes sense.

 

[csstevej]

I broke one of the clip tabs that holds in the CTS...the guys that installed it put the clip in upside down, so there was nothing to grab onto to remove the clip.
I am now on the hunt for a coolant temperature sensor manifold, all suggestions are welcome.

A local salvage yard might be your best and quickest option.

 

[MukGyver]

Will you please explain what a Newtonian fluid is?
I have a corn starch explanation if necessary.

Nevada, I'm still learning up on this. . but from what I gather one difference is the viscosity stays constant when shear forces are applied. As such they can be thinner oils but still provide protection against shear. I started looking into this when I saw how thin the gm synchromesh was that I bought. Another characteristic,.,. they will flow regardless of their apparent viscosity. As I saw it explained this way on one site is a good v isual .. .

Imagine you have two jars before you – one filled with mayonnaise, the other filled with honey. Assuming that both jars are affixed to the table’s surface with Velcro, imagine yourself dipping identical butter knives into each of the fluids at the same angle and to the same depth.

Imagine stirring the two fluids by turning the knives at the same speed while keeping the same angle of attack. Which of the two fluids was harder to stir? Your answer should be honey, which is a lot harder to stir than mayonnaise.

Now imagine detaching the jars from the Velcro on the table and turning the jars on their side. Which flows out of the jar faster, honey or mayonnaise? Your answer should be honey; the mayonnaise probably won’t flow at all by simply turning the jar on its side.

Which fluid is more viscous, honey or mayonnaise? If you said mayonnaise, you are correct… at least partially. Likewise, if you said honey you are partially correct.

The reason for this apparent anomaly is that when rotating the knife in both substances, the shear rate varies, while turning each jar on its side is simply measuring the static resistance to flow.

Because honey is a Newtonian fluid while mayonnaise is non-Newtonian, the viscosity of the mayonnaise drops as the shear rate increases, or as the knife is rotated. Stirring subjects the mayonnaise to a high shear stress, causing it to yield to the forcing action.

Conversely, simply setting the jar on its side subjects the mayonnaise to a low shear stress, resulting in little to no viscosity change, so it tends to stay in the jar.

 

[csstevej]

Lol ^^^^ this is starting to sound like the Big Bang Theory show

 

[jmodge]

So did you use mayonnaise or honey in your transmission? And coincidentally I’m watching the big bang theory right now

 

[MukGyver]

I'm a mustard guy!

 

[Mozambiquer]

Today I started my golf. Frank is building a head for it, and I got my wife a nicer b5.5 wagon, so she's driving that and I took over the old b5.5 wagon that has had several deer plow into it's side...

 

[MukGyver]

Today I started my golf. Frank is building a head for it, and I got my wife a nicer b5.5 wagon, so she's driving that and I took over the old b5.5 wagon that has had several deer plow into it's side...

Sounds like some serious points earned there.

 

[csstevej]

Installed a serviceable turbo into my project rebuild car that my son borrowed while I did a timing belt job on his car.
This is the second turbo that he’s has somehow snapped.
He swears he was on his way to work, which is only 6 miles from where he lives , and was going up a small rise when a puff of white smoke and no boost. Car never shut off Till he did. Had him tow it 75 miles back to my house .
shaft snapped right at the turbine wheel and hose the exhaust with oil......surprisingly the compressor never hit the sides nor lost any oil through the compressor. Blew out the pistons ( just in case ) with GP’s removed and compression check on stone cold engine was 500 psi across the board......was sweating it cause I had jus installed two serviceable pistons and two serviceable connecting rods ( curtesy of Frank ) and 4 sets of piston rings...

 

[Nevada_TDI]

A local salvage yard might be your best and quickest option.

Thank you for that, the P&P guys up here only have gasser Jettas, so I ordered one from Sacramento, it will be here by noon tomorrow. I could have saved $200.00 by using a plastic housing and re routing the coolant hoses. The plastic housings have a very short lifespan for what I have seen. Will nobody please tell not me how old their replacement plastic coolant flange is? IRDGAS

 

[Nevada_TDI]

Back to Newtonian liquids... a while back the Myth busters guys gave a great demonstration: they filled a tall, wide box with corn starch and water. When they ran across the cornstarch, the cornstarch barely moved, but when they tried to walk normally they sank into the cornstarch.

 

[jmodge]

I'm a mustard guy!

Real genuine Michigan maple syrup is my choice, thin viscosity but sticks like glue