Yes, that second position is for the rear fogs, which are empty as far as I know for all of the US versions.
Thanks for the confirmation. I found a schematic. Pin 8 is fog light in headlamp (1 pull), pin 9 is for rear fog (second pull powers both).
I noticed no fuse holder mount on the battery or plastic battery "fence"...did you do the mega battery upgrade too?View media item 138244
View media item 138243
View media item 138245I put my gauges in, replaced the battery, fixed the sunroof drain that someone shoved the boost pressure line through!
Then I replaced the hood latch cable and figured out how I want to install my first responder lights and the siren controller.
Plastic fence and fuse holder holder were awol before I got the car...
I didn't upgrade to the mega battery, but it's more ccas than the one it had before.
In the 1st Gen Cummins forums, the guidance is that *BEFORE any fueling mods are made that an EGT is installed with its probe upstream of the turbine. I'm sure that for most stuff the management system on these wee beasties keeps most of that at bay, but I'll not turn my BEW up until I have one...
Yeah, that's probably one of the contributing factors for it having had a bad engine when I got it. It had some unlabeled big injectors with a modified turbo that spiked at 40 psi! No egt gauge or anything. I have it down from what it was and had the gauge, just had to install it.In the 1st Gen Cummins forums, the guidance is that *BEFORE any fueling mods are made that an EGT is installed with its probe upstream of the turbine. I'm sure that for most stuff the management system on these wee beasties keeps most of that at bay, but I'll not turn my BEW up until I have one...
I'd love to have a big VGT on Lurch...even with a 7-blade HX35 and a 16 cm^2 housing, there is a fair bit o' lag with the fuel screw in a bit.
cheers,
Douglas
Ah ok. We'll shoot your 90% there already! Next time you need a battery, just notch out the corners of the tray then the bohemith fits in there perfectly!Plastic fence and fuse holder holder were awol before I got the car...
Should be requirement on any gen Cummins. My 3rd gen got all the gauges prior to any other mods as well!
The battery that was in it was the bigger one, just had lower cca rating? It was a really cheap walmart battery that was in the car when I got it. 490 cca!
Nothing against more gauges, but with an ALH or BEW (basically anything not common rail) - as long as there isn't a continuous smoke screen behind you, the EGT's won't get high enough for long enough to do any damage. Any on-ramp blast or similar isn't a problem. Even with a trailer/parachute in tow, as long as you don't see smoke continuously, you're good.In the 1st Gen Cummins forums, the guidance is that *BEFORE any fueling mods are made that an EGT is installed with its probe upstream of the turbine. I'm sure that for most stuff the management system on these wee beasties keeps most of that at bay, but I'll not turn my BEW up until I have one...
I'd love to have a big VGT on Lurch...even with a 7-blade HX35 and a 16 cm^2 housing, there is a fair bit o' lag with the fuel screw in a bit.
cheers,
Douglas
I don't think these TDI engines need more than 250cca to turn over. You do need a battery that has sufficient amp hours capacity though.The battery that was in it was the bigger one, just had lower cca rating? It was a really cheap walmart battery that was in the car when I got it. 490 cca!
Unless it's cold. Then it requires a lot more. It's getting to winter here, and the battery was worn out and ready to be replaced it only had 300 ca and failed to start twice on the cool mornings.
Ya I went back and found my post on my upgrade to the H8 (even though the link shows the original post it should take you to my post:The battery that was in it was the bigger one, just had lower cca rating? It was a really cheap walmart battery that was in the car when I got it. 490 cca!
I'd agree for a stock TDI probably not. But if you're getting visuals out the pipe signaling you have high EGT's you could be too late.
Haha give it a couple of twists and see what happens!Krash, where is the 'fun mode' lever/button/screw on a VE? I looked all over and all I found was the Power screw that is for some reason missing its limiting collar now...
cheers,
Douglas
@Nero Morg , how do you have yours wired in?
I want to set my drive cam up on the ignition switch, since the lighter socket stays on all the time. I also have to relocate where it's mounted so I can mount my lights.
It probably should, and I did think about that, but it still says TDI...
Were your Midwest lights projectors? From what I heard they do really good work. Any projector is going to have a better cutoff than a reflector housing. You can't argue that. If you're still blinding people with projectors, they are either aimed wrong, or you're on an incline and they are on a decline, vice versa, etc. That being said, most of the production drop in headlights that have projectors are garbage. They are meant for halogen bulbs (not HID's) and so if you try to run HID's in them it's not the best idea. If you'll be running a halogen in that projector, you're better off sticking with the stock halogen reflector housing. If you want a good set, have someone make you a set of dedicated projectors with a projector meant for HID's. You'll probably be dropping some coin unless you DIY. But I wouldn't pay that price from ECS for what you'll get.I'm always considering better lighting, but the midwest lighting solutions I didn't like - I felt like I was blinding people, even on low beams.
Anyone run these from ECS Tuning?
Hey @Nero Morg, I was in the same boat when I installed mine. I didn't want to hard wire it in...I wanted to be able to power off or on at any time. I like that our lighter outlets are powered all the time for things like this. But I wanted the ability to cut power when parked for a long time at my house.
